Mick Bonwick

You can borrow mine if you wish. Low mileage, one careful owner, cleaned weekly, pristine interior. Or am I thinking of something else? . . . . . . . .

I note that you call this work in progress and, therefore, there might be more work to be done. I know very little about liveries and periods in German railways - is this a steam era box van or later diesel era? I ask because the roof is very clean for a steam era van if it was a British outline vehicle. I like the fading achieved with the pale wash, the grime applied using panel washes and the very effective dust application. Are all the paints used in this piece of work acrylics? Will there be more work done on the underframe?

Because it's easy to use, of course! ;-)

I suggest you opt for a selection of individual colours rather than a set. The best allround powders (value, texture and usability) are from MIG, AK Interactive and AMMO. The colours for you to seek out to meet your stated requirements are Track Brown (new rust), Dark Mud (old rust), Black Smoke (soot) from MIG. The only pigment I can think of that will represent oil is Old Grease by Adam Wilder, but there are several enamel solutions that will do a good job from MIG, AK Interactive and AMMO. Search websites like SnMStuff for these product ranges.

You're absolutely right. I thought I had implied that the nozzle would have been removed by phrasing it as I did, using the term 'nozzle end'. Obviously not.

Whether it's manipulated toothpaste tubes to give an overall impression or individual rivet applications to ensure precise accuracy, the consistent approach will produce the best model railway layouts. This was evident at Tonbridge where Vopak and Much Murkle were right next to each other. Both were busy all day with a constant stream of admirers, although I'm not necessarily saying that either of them used toothpaste tubes or individual rivets.

Consider taking the needle out through the nozzle end of the airbrush so there is no chance of paint being dragged through the airbrush body and sitting there unnoticed until it's too late.

I recommend trying out these aspects yourself. Other people's views may well not be the same as yours, and their requirements may well differ. For example, some people prefer to use a trigger style because they simply can't get on with the lever style. You can try out the different styles at good model shops (if you can find one), exhibitions attended by the likes of Eileen's Emporium or courses run at Pendon Museum and Missenden Abbey.

Is it what you call product placement, or is it somebody passing on information about what works for them and therefore might work for other people? When I find a product that does what I want and does it well, I certainly recommend it to others. Like AS186 compressors, for example, which I use with Iwata airbrushes.

The way to adjust the pressure at the airbrush end is to connect and operate the airbrush with the black knob in the raised position. You can then turn this knob, while the airbrush is working, until your required pressure shows on the gauge. Then you lower the knob and tighten the red ring.

Ian, how about writing a guide for review entries and pinning that at the top of the thread, including the phrase, "Please read before posting" in the title? This approach has been used, apparently successfully, in other threads on this forum.

So that's where they all go!

I wonder if you have made the same assumption as me. I thought that the pin was bent, but the original poster didn't actually say that. The problem was quoted as being a pin outside the decoder. That may be why the installation is described as faulty rather than damaged.

The 3F has a 21-pin socket fitted to the tender, and that has pins 'sticking up'. Keith is right - remove the decoder, carefully straighten the errant pin until it lines up with all the others and carefully re-insert the decoder.

You're not talking to yourself, I just have nothing to help you with. I've never used the product, but 4 days does seem a tad long!

I'd consider any layout to be big if it's mentioned in this thread.

I'm glad it's not just me! I'm sure it will all become clear in time.

Just read this thread with interest, John. I'd clicked somewhere else in order to get here. Is that known as following the links?

I might be wrong here, but aren't 197/8/9 used for self-centring? I thought you had to allocate a different address before trying to operate the motor. I'm not sure, because I haven't got this type of Cobalt.

Now you've done it! Millions of opinions are about to come your way . . . . . . . . Here's mine; Cobalt or Tortoise. Both can have the spring wire replaced with something more substantial if you find you need more pressure, but I don't think you will.

Rick, you'll need to remove it all from the inside of the body as well, or it will just reappear. Check the area around the periphery of the flywheel area, on the interior surfaces and joins in the bodywork, because that will be where it is at its worst. The grease turns to a very thin oily substance, and that is what is drawn, by capillary action, through all your powders.

Hornby locomotives are beginning to appear with the age old Bachmann problem of excessive grease and oil on the geartrain, so this might be the source of your 'slidy' surface. During their time in the box during transit, this excess creeps along and through all the body joins and forms a film over the external surface as well. I found a factory weathered J15 recently where this had badly affected the finish, straight out of the box. I suggest using small quantities of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) on a cotton bud to remove the oil - it has worked every time for me, so far! I have seen a vinegar solution mentioned as another way of cleaning before weathering, but have not tried this myself. I prefer the smell of IPA.

That's what you think. What about all those maintenence, repair and modification tasks? :-D

Whichever applicator they used for this, they didn't vacuum up the surplus afterwards! :-D

Stick it to a strip of sellotape, cut out your strips and then remove the tape.