Mick Bonwick

Just managing to squeeze a photograph on to this page. There is a row of cottages, that is at right angles to the station throat, called Bloomfield Terrace, and it is my intention to represent those buildings on the model of Easton. There will not be a scratchbuilt stone-by-stone model, but the Scalescenes kit might be good enough. We'll see when it's nearer completion. Note that I didn't say, "When it's finished".

Despite sore fingers and thumbs from building card huts, there's more card building to come. Recent observations on the suitability of card for modelling have prompted me to take things a little further than I had originally planned. I have discovered that X-Acto no longer export to the UK, by trying to find some #2 blades for my favourite knife and failing dismally. I have had to resort to my other knife, that uses #11 blades, and is not as robust. The 2mm greyboard has had to be cut with a Stanley knife! I have spent today cutting and gluing. I still have sore fingers and thumbs.

When we see a whole year's work condensed into a few sentences it really does illustrate how much has been done, despite what you think. So there!

My first reading of that sentence saw the words 'stock' and 'storms' swapped over. I couldn't work out why or how a storm ran well. The penny dropped eventually. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to those who believe in such things. To those who don't, "Bah! Humbug!"

Me. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/151137-easton-isle-of-portland/page/20/

I wonder if your ovine collection is as large as your other one.

We need a tutorial (not on this topic, though) on how you do your greenery! That looks really effective.

In the middle of Summer?

Sorry to have been the cause of a diversion. This train was a most enjoyable task, once I had sorted out how to make a white roof just dirty enough to see that it was once white. I particularly enjoyed working on the Mervchant Navy, trying to get the sides looking a little bit used, as if they'd just done a looong journey. If you're pleased then I'm pleased.

Don't forget that not all trees look the same. Try differing methods of construction to vary the overall appearance. Everything made of seafoam/seamoss looks wrong. I'm not saying that what you have done so far looks wrong, by the way!

I've had it up to here with postal delays, despatch delays and badly finished models. I've had all of these experiences, and more, over the years with all of the major suppliers, so I thought that on this occasion it would be my turn to get a model immediately it was released, the day following despatch and perfect straight out of the box. Not a bit of it. I hadn't actually ordered one.

"GROAN"

That's some construction! I could see this bridge from my parent's bedroom window when I lived in Gillingham, and used to cycle to it (not across it) on my Saturday bike trips. Doesn't help your modelling, but it brings back memories.

I think you'll find that they were both called Kingsferry. H and C Class were certainly 'favourites', according to my trainspotting classmates, in the late 50s and very early 60s. I'd expect (guesswork!) that any of the earliest batch of 33s would be likely candidates. Is there any evidence that the borrowed 24s were there, before the delivery of 33s?

Surely there are no views not yet covered in this topic. I think that you should read all 337 pages to find those that you seek. You can't have much else to do, can you?

Easton will have card buildings. Easton will have brass and nickel-silver kit-built rolling stock. Easton has got ready-to-run locomotives. Easton will have plastic kits. Easton has got wooden baseboards. Easton has been inspired by people who created Pendon Museum's exhibits. Easton is progressing because of skills learned at Missenden Abbey Railway Modellers' events. Easton is.

I agree 99.9%. I don't want people to think that I am merely copying somebody else's view.

If you think that these are going into the background after all the work I've put into them, you've got another think coming, sunshine! On the other hand . . . . . . . . . . . . .

How long is long? If you try to go too far at a time you will encounter problems with the airhose catching on things that you didn't think would get in the way. Try attacking a section about a metre long at a time. First airbrush one rail, moving along the length with an even spray, then the other rail in a similar manner and finish with the sleepers, moving the airbrush backwards and forwards across the track. Then go round to the other side of the rails and repeat the first bit, then just touch up the bits of sleeper not covered the first time. Using the larger cup of your Neo you should find that that allows you to do a couple of metre lengths before the paint mixture needs replenishing. Before adding another mix, flush the airbrush through with clean thinners as @ColinK says, above.

I clicked on "Funny" because there's no "Groan".

Thanks, Chris. I can't claim to have done very well at the start. There have been a lot of reprints along the way! The key thing for me is to study how it all goes together well before starting, and then to measure, measure, measure before using any glue.

Humbrol thinners will certainly react adversely with clear glazing. They are very aggresive. You'll also get a headache if you breathe the fumes for too long! I suggest that you thin your enamel paint with white spirit and only use small quantities at a time. The MIG enamel wash that you mention is already thinned sufficently for direct application to a coach side. You may find this will help to explain it: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/21241-set-732-introduction/

How very illuminating.

Using an airbrush means, as you've already identified: Properly thinned paint Properly protected lungs For thinners I recommend either using the paint manufacturer's own thinners or Ultimate Acrylic Thinners, and dilute the paint so that it sprays freely and doesn't clog the airbrush. The Neo has a nozzle size that is ideal for spraying large areas with acrylic paint, but don't leave the airbrush with paint in the cup for longer than a couple of minutes. To stay safe when using an airbrush on the layout (i.e. not inside a spray booth) you should keep the area well ventilated and wear a suitable mask. If it was me I'd be using Lifecolor Track Dirt but, as you have said, it's a personal thing.

That's probably the best selection of those that I have ever seen. We have had vast numbers of these through Pendon Museum for the children's workshops and there are always a good few that are too crooked or broken to be used for anything else but groundcover. You're a lucky man indeed. I'd say that the amount of trimming needed is minimal!