Mick Bonwick

I've got plenty of those. Here's the latest one: What is it that's wrong? Probably the most difficult to achieve, this one, although some seem to be able to do it without a problem. The key to success is to use the right colours (!) and not very much of them. A good idea. I like the idea of steel (mineral?) wagons. The very first time I was at Missenden I tackled a rake of 20, just to test the principles that Tim Shackleton had spent two days teaching us. If I did it again I might change a few things, but the basics would still apply. The missing three had TOPS markings, so were too late for my modelling period and have now found new homes.

I can see that the subject might not not be what you would like to do, but is the approach (materials, tools, techniques) what you would like to see?

Something I hadn't thought of as a separate topic, and a good idea. I can't pretend that I have no experience! My advice here is to understand the materials you are working with and, before you make a start, ensure that you have everything to hand that will enable you to correct errors as soon as they occur.

Something like this? https://accurascale.co.uk/blogs/lets-get-involved/weathering-pfa-gypsum-wagons-with-mick-bonwick-lets-get-involved

Do you mean something like this? https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/21469-a-land-rover-series-1-109-according-to-oxford-diecast-introduction/

Hi Phil, Kind of you to say so, thank you. I'm not promising anything, but it's an idea that's found room to germinate in my head.

If there was a website that was dedicated to model railway weathering, what would you want to see there? Equipment? Tools? Tips? Techniques? Examples? Materials? References? Anything else? Just wondering.

Rather a thorny topic.

In a nutshell, DCC gives you better control over accessories: And simpler wiring:

That's enormous!

Ooh! You little tease, you.

Very clever. You'll have to be sure that it is exhibited at Railwools one day. Ewe'll enjoy that.

A logical response, but not accurate. Not on this occasion, anyway. There are some clues elsewhere in the blog.

Hello Josh, I think that DT asks a very pertinent question (or two) here. The PremiAir G35 is a good all-round airbrush and in its time was good value for money. Replacing it now with an equivalent (it’s no longer made) would probably set you back £60 to £70, so if you want something that you perceive as better, then you will need to put your hands further into your pocket. If you are working in O Gauge and planning to paint as well as weather, then you’ll need something that holds a decent quantity of paint and can handle the coverage of large-ish areas. My recommendation (that’s what you’re asking for) would be something with a .35mm or .5mm needle/nozzle and a 5ml or 7ml cup. If you’re used to the G35 then a dual action, top- or side-feed would suit your needs, I think. What does that mean? Your choices include Badger, Iwata, Harder and Steenbeck and Sparmax, all of which have resellers in this country who also stock spares, something that is important. There are others, of course, but these are the ones that I would put my money on. If you really want to replace your G35 then I think you will need to think carefully about exactly what it is you need its successor to do that it can’t do. For what it might be worth, my choice would be an Iwata Eclipse SBS with a couple of 30ml or 60ml side-feed bottles, but I am biased because that is what I have been happy using for the last 8 years. Your choice of compressors is probably even greater in scope than airbrushes. I’d recommend an AS186 (with an air tank) or AS18-2 (without an air tank) compressor as the cheap option BUT, their recent output has been less than reliable in my experience. You will get a reliable machine from Sparmax with plenty of spares available from UK resellers, and you could spend lots of money on an Iwata. What you should be looking for is · Pressure from 10psi to 40psi · Adjustable pressure valve · Pressure gauge · Moisture trap · Automatic on/off My recommendation would be a Sparmax Zeta. I will be absolutely no help to you whatsoever with lining pens because I have never used one!

My preferred weapon is a filbert. It has firm but soft bristles and a rounded end. allowing the application of pigments to be done in small or large areas depending on the angle of attack.

Andy, You could try using much smaller quantities. Don't dip the brush into the pot. Before opening the pot, tip it upside down then back up the right way and then tap it on the table. Now, when you open the pot there will be a thin film of particles inside the lid. It's those that you pick up on the brush and apply to the model. If that isn't enough you can apply more; it's much more difficult to remove excess than it is to add a little extra.

Tea break will soon be over.

Southern M7 in service.

Hi Josh, It might have been better to place your topic here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/29-weathering-painting-transfers/ I suspect you'll get a more informed set of opinions there. I could be wrong, of course. It has been known.

Makes one wonder what else you've got hidden in your drawers.

You don't need to know that. This is not something for you. You don't need to know that. This is not something for you. You don't need to know that. This is not something for you. You don't need to know that. This is not something for you. You don't need to know that. This is not something for you. You don't need to know that. This is not something for you. You don't need to know that. This is not something for you.

I have great pleasure in informing the honourable gentleman that the provided response consists of one item of a correct nature.

Two recently completed tasks, one rebuilt Battle of Britain and one unrebuilt West Country. The camera has gone away for a jolly good seeing to so, with any luck, normal service will be resumed soon. The same colours have been used for both of these locomotives. See if you can work out what they were.

Problems with my camera (or maybe the lens) have disrupted progress recording with this subject. I have managed to salvage one shot of the airbrushed underframe, though, and here it is. Once the main colour was finished, an application od MIG Dark Wash was run into all the detail areas with a rigger brush. This served to highlight the shadow areas and bring out the intricate details of the bogies.

Really keen on all these new angles, Kevin. A benefit of keeping the buildings removable, I suppose. I like the way you keep all your verticals vertical, by the way. I don't feel dizzy when I'm looking for faults features.......