Mick Bonwick

Splendid articles, Rob. Nicely done, sir.

Paul, Consider the fact that Much Murkle is all code 100.

Schools? A different class. Weathering? Something to master.

I've used these for some time now. Soldering, figure painting, holding small parts for airbrushing. https://www.toolsntoolsuk.co.uk/shop/fiber-cross-lock-tweezers-with-stand-curved-straight-tips-hand-free-soldering/

The three colours are mixed in the airbrush paint cup, but thinners (white spirit) are placed first. That is because the first thing to reach the nozzle is then thinners rather than unmixed paint. The latter will block the nozzle before you even start the weathering. When mixing colours, start with the lightest and add the other colour(s) using small amounts at a time. In this case the orange was added to the thinners first (a small drop), the leather was added next (one brush load) and the black (another small drop) was last. A 9v battery is used to turn the wheels while they are being sprayed with the underframe colour. By bringing the airbrush close to the target, only a small area is painted at a time, and using this airbrush the area covered is only the wheel.

I think that white might be a bit too stark, Kevin. How about a creamy grey dry-brushing?

The underframe is where I invariably start with any model because everything that follows can be done with the model on its wheels. I was introduced to foam cradles, that originated as worktop edging protective covers, by a friend who liberated some from a skip. I use them for most models that I work on now. Having exhausted the supply that I, in turn, liberated from waste disposal receptacles, I decided to buy some direct from a manufacturer, but had to order a minimum quantity. I now have enough to last workshops, demonstrations and me for several years! The model is inverted in a foam cradle. In this instance I'd like to keep overspray to a minimum (not always the case) so make use of another precision instrument to give a little bit of control over the paint flow. I have a selection of pieces of 2mm A4 sized greyboard, that have been cut into strips of various widths, that can be used to rest on the turntable and against the edge of a roof, a body and anything else that is to be airbrushed. The paints to be used for the underframe are Humbrol Matt Black, Matt Leather and Lining Orange. The last of the three is introduced because the leather now has a green hue to it and needs the orange to bring back the gingery hue that is just right for track dirt on underframes. I have used up all of my stash of older style Matt Leather! I have been using Railmatch Frame Dirt and Weathered Black occasionally, but still prefer the Humbrol paints.

Something a little more modern, just for a change. My reference library doesn't contain any photographs of this locomotive in this livery, so I looked through one of Strathwood's "Looking Back" series and found a Transrail liveried example that was depicted in a fairly well used but cleaned state. Sides and roof looked fairly clean, but the underparts were not. The tools and materials list: Iwata Eclipse SBS airbrush - not a large volume of paint to be used, but fairly close work to be required around the bogies. Wide flat shader, filbert and rigger brushes. Humbrol Matt Black, Matt Leather and Lining Orange for the main grime application. MIG Productions Black Smoke, Dark Mud and Track Brown pigments. MIG Productions Dark Wash. Airbrushed paint to be applied to the underparts but with a little overspray allowed onto the body sides. Small areas to be given a thin treatment of Dark Wash. Pigments to be applied to the silencer, grilles and some roof panels.

I think your question has already been answered, my Captain.

That's splendid. I can't find fault with that anywhere. I'll keep looking, though . . . . . . . . .

But make sure you use the right glue!

Nice recovery, that man. Impressive tidiness in the surrounding area. An example to be noted.

http://www.tracksideltd.co.uk/ https://www.offtherailsonline.com https://tracksidesigns.co.uk

It's good to see some different views of the village, so maybe you need to place some more noticeboards.

'Rat on a stick?'

Hence the "Oh!" at the end of the post.

Thank you, my Captain. Can't tell you very much about it, other than to confirm that it is, indeed, 7mm. I offered to weather something for a participant at a Missenden weekend and this is what he asked me to do. I know that it is kit built and it was to be presented in a slightly grubby state, but nothing more. I can ask the owner for more details, if you wish. Aplogies to Rob for not including any references to sheep in this post. Oh!

There's a distinct lack of modelling going on here. Just in case anybody is feeling bereft, here's a thingy-whatsit:

Cheapskate!

A bit like my old Regimental Sergeant Major, then?

Are you back yet?

Plans are good. They do need to be flexible, though, just in case.

.... Pannier?

Oi!

There's no step-by-step account for this one, just a summary of what's been done with what. My close-up camera is off for servicing, so these were taken with the standby. Underframe airbrushed with Railmatch Frame Dirt, then sides with a mix of Frame Dirt and Weathered Black. Top surfaces and cab front and back airbrushed with a darker mix of Frame Dirt and Weathered Black. Wheel centres and coupling rod joints were given a quick waft of Weathered Black. The tank and cab sides were then brushed vigorously with a wide flat shader while the paint was still damp, to remove enough paint to make those areas look cleaned. Running plate was given random applications of MIG Productions Rubbel Dust and Dark Mud, the cab roof, chimney and smokebox were given an application of Smoke Black (or is it Black Smoke?) and highlighted metal edges were achieved with AK Interactive Gunmetal pigment. All pigments were applied with a filbert brush.