tractor_37260

1 hour ago, long island jack said:

Try page mode on the lenz 100

Having not used page mode before.....how does one use it ?

31 minutes ago, newbryford said:

I've had some Hornby TTS decoders that wouldn't address on the program track - I had to use Program on the Main.

Which is not good as I can't read the address on the program track!

How do you change an address using POM ? thought it could only be done on the programming track ?  

11 hours ago, New Haven Neil said:

Odd.  I have a Lenz 100 and do have some R8249's, I find them OK in diesels with flywheel drives  Never had the Err02 with them. Duff decoder?

As a above decoder works OK on address 03, but can't read or write  an address on the programming track. I don't normally use Hornby decoders, but it's the only 8 pin one I have small enough to fit into the chassis slot in a new Hornby 87. Did try other decoders on top of the circuit board but body would not fit back on.  Also looking at perhaps fitting a different decoder where the recess for a speaker is cut and extending the wiring.

30 minutes ago, RFS said:

I have the Lenz DCC system too and never had a problem programming R8249s although I don't have these decoders any more. As I said above, CV 29 will be set automatically according to the address you are using.

 

Does the loco run OK on default address 3 which would prove the decoder is OK? Error code 2 usually means the decoder cannot be found, or your programming track isn't wired up correctly. 

Loco runs just fine and lights work OK on address 03.  

Programming track works fine with Loksound/Lenz and Hatton's decoders but not this R8429.....just constant error 2's.....

Thanks for the replies.  Can't access CV29..or any other CV's ?  AFAIK bit 5 in CV29 requires changing from 0 to 1 to enable long addresses.

Tried both the programming track and on the main.

With other decoders the Lenz normally auto sets a long address once it's entered on the throttle.

I seem to recall there was some sort of conflict when trying to program Hornby decoders with a Lenz ?

Anyone know how to put a new 4 digit address on a Hornby R8249 8pin decoder using a Lenz Set 100 ?  No matter what I try I keep getting error 2 !  Can't read/write anything on it !

TIA

Ken

22 hours ago, 61661 said:

Apologies for this. Hopefully KMRC will be able to swap it promptly for you. As mentioned earlier in this thread, we've sent all the evidence regarding inadequate QC to the factory and they have agreed to 'up their game' on future batches of Class 25s. We have also agreed an action plan to improve certain parts, notably the headcode glazing, to eliminate problems such as this. 

 

With regard to the presence of bufferbeam details on the ETHELs, we felt that there was a lower chance of confusion/problems if we instructed the factory to make them as per the powered Class 25s. We are certain that customers buying these somewhat niche models are more than capable of removing the pipes if required to enable them to be coupled between loco and train. Leaving them off would have made a negligible difference to the overall production cost and end price. 
Same applies to the ploughs - they are included in all Class 25 detail packs as standard and if you don't need them for this loco they might come in handy for something else. I don't know about anyone else, but I have a bits box full of unused parts from various RTR locos! 

 

Ben

 

Are ETH fittings included in the detail pack for the ETHEL's ?  not being factory fitted. 

I'd check all the pickup strips are actually in contact with the rear of the wheels, especially when you move the axles from side to side. On my example sorting this cured it's dodgy running.....

7 hours ago, JohnR said:

I've bought a second hand Heljan 26 (in OO), and while I'm generally very impressed by it, the lights are a disappointment. I wasnt aware that Heljan used regular bulbs for the lights, and these of course need replacing on a regular basis. It seems the previous owner had not bothered to replace them, and I can understand why.

 

However, I would like to replace them, and with LEDs. However, I cant seem to find anywhere that does a lighting upgrade kit for them? Has anyone done a lighting upgrade using LEDs that they could share the details of?

See my reply to your question in Modellers Questions and Tips......

Replacing  the bulbs with LED's on Heljan 26/27's is fairly straight forward.   I've converted a few of them in the past.  I also took the opportunity to add cab lighting.   

See my WB thread for more info:  

I'd be happy to discuss fitting LED lighting to anybody's model, more details via PM only. 

HTH

Ken

10 hours ago, WisTramwayMan said:

I see the first of the Ethels is now showing in stock at Rails of Sheffield.

Given that the model is un-motored, and that the units generally ran between the locomotive and the stock, you're going to need the couplings working both ends if you're going to run this in an authentic rake.

Yet - still showing in the Rails pics (which I assume are correct) with full bufferbeam detail and air tank attached. All, or most, of which will need to be removed before the unit is run.

Given it's effectively an item of rolling stock, rather than a locomotive, why ? I would think that most Ethels will be destined for use on layouts rather than display cabinets.....definitely for the detail pack.

Perhaps, along with the absence of the motor and driveshafts, this may have allowed for a different strategy than pricing it the same as a full-fat motored 25....

It may well have full BB details factory fitted, but it would appear the ETH connector/cables are missing ? ....

On 15/03/2021 at 12:29, GarrettTheThief said:

At what point should paint be flat out binned? I have some RailMatch and Phoenix paints purchased many years ago which were never opened and I'm thinking of selling (they were for a shelved project), but I'd rather not if it's defective.

Provided they have NOT been opened or partially used most of them should be OK.

Having run out, I recently had to use an old tin of the original Precision Enamel (prior to the Phoenix era) it being possibly 20-30 years old. It had been partially used in the past, but when opened, I was surprised to find it had not skinned over, and once very well stirred and thinned it airbrushed perfectly.

As for Humbrol, their old original paints were far superior to the modern day replacements.

HTH

Interesting comment from Heljan on Face-ache .....When asked if the errors on the CAD images for their Class 25 had been corrected, the response was "can you purchase a better one". !!  Well we all know the answer to that....

Yes we CAN indeed.....

On 05/03/2021 at 16:12, 61656 said:

Isn’t RMweb just great?

 

Thanks very much. Updates to follow..

Getting back to the OT did you manage to sort the lining issues ?

2 hours ago, Grovenor said:

Ok, had a look, where do we select P4 or EM wheels? I had that option when I ordered my 24.

 

Use the gauge tab and choose option.....

2 hours ago, pauliebanger said:

Tractor,

 

Yes, but why would you want a DCC ready model?  No sound?

 

All prices are the same as the Class 24 equivalents.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

Hi Paul

            Only a DCC ready ETHEL is of interest at present. Perhaps once sound clips are available to hear for the ETHEL I may then reconsider. 

However look forward to getting my sound fitted Tops 24/1 especially with the crews local dialect !!

Regards

Ken

Are these new 25's the same price as the 24's ?  ie £185 DCC ready 

With so many new models due this year, trying to work out a budget.

TIA

On 04/03/2021 at 11:38, 61656 said:

I have recently taken the plunge and attempted my first relivery project. Converting a Bachmann Mk2z BSO from Highland green and cream to BFK in Intercity mainline livery. 
 

I’ve made a reasonable start with painting the two greys and first class yellow. 
 

The white and red transfer (Fox) for the lining is giving me a slight headache. The transfers themselves are brilliant and I can get them straight (enough). I am struggling with the raised detail on the coach though. I hoped that I could let the transfer dry and then simply force the transfer down over the detail, possibly even cutting slightly with a sharp knife, but I’m having limited success. 
 

The photo shows the lining taught across the door handle, handrail and doorstop. 

 

Does anyone have a tip or trick to share for this? Or am I best to remove the lining, sand or trim the raised detail flush and then reapply the lining?

 

All help gratefully received!

 

Before removing the transfer lining. I'd suggest you first try using some "Micro Sol" on the areas it's not lying down properly.  Apply a small amount to the problem areas with a brush and then LEAVE to dry without touching them further. The Micro Sol softens the transfer and helps it adhere better over raised detail etc.

Applying some Micro Sol on the model prior to laying down any further lining will also help.

Micro Sol is available from most Hobby shops/ eBay etc 

HTH

Ken

21 minutes ago, mallaig1983 said:

Even if it isn’t offered with sound there will be folks who will want to fit it. Once fitted only a minority of functions will be of use to an ETHEL unit but functions that none the less will bring the beast to life. It will sound pretty good in my opinion on half beans being pulled out of Fort William (or any other station of choice) by a noisy tractor. You will hear the different sounds and tone of both. I just don’t want it to be powered. Powered as In the need to drive it.

Should be easy enough to make it un-powered if necessary by removing the drive shafts, and possibly the main bogie drive pinion gears.

45 minutes ago, slg said:

 

Hopefully SLW sound file will have the ETHEL mode option in it like Legomanbiffo does so that not matter how slow or fast it goes the sound doesn't change.

Very interesting I didn't know the ETHEL was going to be offered with a sound fitted option ??

Assuming it's being hauled by 1or 2 EM2 fitted 37's it's unlikely you would hear any sounds coming from the ETHEL....

2 hours ago, Nick G said:

Latest teaser from SLW

 

SOMETHING IS HEATING UP (UNDER THE GRILLE)

Another small taster picture of our new Class 25, showing ETHEL 3's (No. 97252) body fitted with an unpainted shoulder grille for clarity. This characteristic feature of the flat-sided 'Rats' has been photo-etched in stainless steel and carefully formed to the cantrail curvature. You should (just) be able to see the air filters through these on the finished models. 

Impressive super detail......very glad I decided on an SLW version now.

18 hours ago, Peter749 said:

When they were released over 6 years ago I purchased 8 of Bachmann 38-425 Bulk Grain Bogie Hopper Wagon - VTG Weathered

 

Now I have a layout to run these wagons they are all poor runners - they won't run away on a down gradient

I have checked three of them and the wheels seem to be in gauge and when held upside down to spin the wheels they don't spin too freely

 

I don't know what is causing the problem - axles too tight?

 

Anyone else had this problem with this model or one of the similar ones?

 

Thanks

 

Peter

Take the axles out and put some Graphic Powder (Kadee Greas-em) on the axle pinpoints and some in the bogie recesses, that should help.

If the star heads are rounded off, sometimes a small flat bladed screwdriver will still grip them, if not drilling is the only option. Use a new sharp drill the same size of very slightly larger than the heads - 3mm ? Only the heads need to be drilled, once removed the body should come off, the remaining screw threads then removed with pliers.

HTH

Is the new SLW site now up ? Anyone got a link ?

TIA

12 minutes ago, Phil Bullock said:

Ah no separate starts

 

 

Thanks Phil. Wonder if the Accurascale sound file will include this, it's likely, but be good to know.

Do both engines start up together on Deltics ? 

TIA