tractor_37260

13 hours ago, Ruston said:

I have tried Humbrol enamel and Tamiya acrylic matt varnishes. None of them ever come out properly matt in the way that their respective matt paints do. There is always a sheen, no matter how well I've shaken and stirred the stuff. I tried Humbrol clearcote but that doesn't work either.

 

What's the secret to getting the right finish with these products, or what other varnishes are out there that do give a proper matt finish when brush-painting?

Humbrol Matt enamel varnish requires mixing/stirring very thoroughly as the matting agent tends to sink to the bottom of the tin, especially if it's not been used for some time.  Flat sable haired brushes will give the best results.

Beware the newer/latest branded tins of Humbrol varnishes appear to contain a gloopy grey sludge nothing like a varnish ! I returned some recently purchased tins of Satin.

Noticed the blurb 're a Class 48 in a recent mag copy.

Already suggested either:

47 114 in R/F Construction livery ED based 

47 118 L/L Blue with Blue roof preferably with NO printed depot brandings 

Remains to be seen what will get produced, if it goes ahead ?

On 25/08/2020 at 10:02, dj_crisp said:

hi

 

Daft question. I have a set of Bachmann light boards for a class 40 from their latest model (nose and cab lights) to fit to an older 40 and thought I'd hard wire them into a dcc decoder. Do I need to include resistors as I'm not sure if they're already on the light boards?

 

Thanks

Will

Hi Will

           As nobody has yet commented, here's my tuppence worth.

There are resistors on the nose boards, but Bachmann also sometimes fit additional resistance in the +comm track on the main circuit board.

When I discard the factory main circuit boards when fitting EM2 speakers on 37's I fit resistors between the decoder outputs and the nose end contacts , your cab lights will require resistors also.

Factory lights as supplied tend to be over bright, so the resistors will help reduce their brightness AND also help protect the LED's (a belt and braces approach)

So yes resistors on all decoder - neg output wires- White/Yellow/Green/Purple etc  680ohm to 1Kohm resistors being suitable. 

HTH

Ken

Hi Alex

             The BBA's look just brilliant, but it's transfers I'm looking for atm.

Any update on transfer production being re-started after the virus lockdown issues ?

Regards 

Ken

5 minutes ago, Eddie R v2.0 said:

That would make sense Ken. Oh to have a time machine and a Digital camera! 

Steve is now going to amend the the ED version with a fine Black border - top man Steve !  - will save faffing about painting on Black squares to go under the transfers.

1 hour ago, Eddie R v2.0 said:

To my eyes, it is Blue with a very thin Black line round the edge. I know that it’s very difficult to tell from the pics on Flickr and don’t envy Steve in all the research he does!  

Yep - that's what I'm thinking now looking at the above . Possibly Black squares were painted on first - then the Blue added afterwards- as per the photo above in ED's paint shop ? 

Hi Steve

               The above in 4mm will be just the job.  One question, the background square colour behind the ED or ML on the cab sides looks Black ? to me not Blue but happy to be corrected. 

EDIT: Having found a better photo, it is in fact Blue backed with a fine Black border edge around it ! 

I presently use and would recommend one of these. It's works extremely well for indoor use, it's reasonably quiet in operation, and it is also suitable for using with Aerosol cans. It's rather expensive, but what price your health ?  The use of a face mask should also be considered. 

https://www.graphicair.co.uk/product/benchvent-bv300s-d-airbrush-spray-booth/

Fresh out of the paint shop 3 x INTERCITY Swallow 37's with one off Silver Roofs.  These 2 locos were spruced up including Silver roofs at ML TMD, initially for a royal Train to take HRH Prince Charles etc to Fort William.

Thought It was about time I did a "signature" model of 37 251 and it's very similar twin 37 152.  The other 37 251 was a commission job.  It was a pile of work, with many hours spent masking, but I'm well pleased with the results.  Just need to sort out EM2 fitted chassis for them now.

15 hours ago, Pitlochry TMD said:

Morning All,

 

I'm really new to all of this, some would say green like a cabbage but I am wiling to learn.

 

So I've recently purchased 37426 (full sound), but she wears the valleys version of the 37/4's, not the highland like I need for my layout. How easy is it to change the number to 37416, take out the dragon under the cab windows and remove the huge name plate?

 

Or is there anyone who specialises in this and whats it likely to cost me?

 

Thanks

Hi

      Sent you a PM regarding re-working your 37.

Regards

Ken

Hi Steve

                What's the part No. for your ML 08 938 transfer set can't seem to find it on your site.  An ED 08 938 set still required as and when available.

Regards

Ken

1 hour ago, railtec-models said:

I've done the transfer pack for the ML version for some time, and the ED variant is already in design for somebody else who has also asked for it. The ED version has a few quirky bits on it so it's not as straight-forward as what many people might initially think - at least if you want to get it bang on.

Thanks for that, Put me down for a 4mm ED set as and when available.  I've still to receive the base model, so no big hurry.

Regards

Ken

I've been asked to re-paint an 08 into this one off ED livery.  I seem to recall reading somewhere ? that Shawplan had produced a set of transfers for the very similar ML version of the same loco ? but I may well be mistaken.

Anyone else done this 08 ? 

It's not easy to contact Brian to confirm.  Failing that I'll try Steve at Rail-Tec to see if he has done them/or can make them up. 

TIA

Ken

1 hour ago, Mick Bonwick said:

That will very much depend on the model. I have never had a problem with glazing on Hornby, Bachmann, Heljan, Oxford Diecast or Dapol, but I did have a disaster on another modeller's diecast bus.

Don't work on any buses, mainly Bachmann/Hornby and Heljan models, so should be OK then. Some of the newer Bachmann models appear to have their glazing "welded in"....lol ....even when left overnight in the freezer,they still tend to break rather than come out cleanly.

Will 5-10% diluted IPA affect model glazing if left fitted when paint stripping ?

TIA

Ken

On 18/08/2020 at 19:51, jono26 said:

Hopefully this should clear up any confusion over the cut away lower cab side.

My base model for these two 47's was 47805 in swallow livery which was a later variant with the cut away lower cab side and the buffer beam cowl removed. I used Heljan 47805 as this had the long range tanks and correct boiler Clayton Mk2 port/plates so I thought I only needed to replace the buffer beams with the cowl version. In my time period 87/88 47805 carried the number 47650 and was one of 16 47's based at Eastfield with long range tanks hence making a good base of 651/654. The picture on the right above is how the cab should look in 87/88, only a very small difference but stands out a mile when you know and when it is alongside other 47's.

 

Jonathan

Not an easy fix Jono, but looks like you aced it ! Top job.   The photo above of the Swallow 47's clearly shows the difference. 

Regards

Ken

21 hours ago, chris251 said:

I have a rattle can of rust-oleum plastic primer, would that work as the barrier?

I will have to sand the Bachmann paintjob down first.

 

To explain about the use of etch primed samples, then plastic models, I'm painting 2 class 158s to Arriva Trains Wales, one is the old-tooled Bachmann, and the other is a scratchbuild in brass, so the Bachmann one will need plastic primer, the brass one etch primer. I had etch-primed 1 carriage of the brass one, but then the Pheonix paint messed it up, so I had to strip it down to bare metal again.

 

I will then apply transfers and lining for TFW Ex-Arriva to one of them, and ATW to the other.

I've not used Rust-oleum primer, so can't comment, but I'd trial it on a scrap body etc and then use the Synthetic paint over to see what happens.

Perhaps a better idea to strip the paint off the Bach 158 model rather than sand it.

On 28/07/2020 at 20:01, chris251 said:

I can't seem to find much info about what the BS245 standard is.

I have half a bottle of wilko's white spirit, labelled BS245, is that what you mean?

 

>> Regardless of what name is on the bottle, if it's BS245 it's the quality stuff. Googling BS245 will provide all the info necessary.

 

Also, the pantone 321 paint has arrived, so I've applied some to the sample piece (a scrap of brass which I etch primed for sampling paint on), it's a lighter shade than the Pheonix Precision paint, and has a strong smell distinctly like it contains cellulose (it is labelled as 'synthetic enamel'). Is that going to dissolve a plastic model or will it evaporate beforehand? I plan to airbrush it, outside in the garden.

 

>> You will also need Synthetic Thinners to use the pantone paint with an airbrush.  A coat of suitable Primer will also most likely be required as a barrier for the plastic, that won't be adversely affected by the synthetic/cellulose paint.

Probably easier to stick with enamel paints, Precision colours are normally quite accurate. As for the lead content, that won't be a problem for the very small amount of paint used, especially if done outdoors in the garden etc.

 

 

On 24/07/2020 at 21:43, chris251 said:

The paint was stirred for a good few minutes with a power-mixer, so the paint should be properly mixed.

 

I'd also gently sanded the gloss paint with grade 1500 wet&dry paper, but clearly, this didn't help, and where I tried brushing it onto just the primer (the roof), it still wouldn't give an even finish and set within minutes.

 

Out of interest, do lead-containing paints set quicker?

 

Now I've ordered the pantone 321, I'll give it a try when it arrives.

 

Can I thin standard coach enamel with white spirit EN245?

 

 

Did you use the Precision paint straight out of the tin after mixing ? If so better to decant a small amount and then thin it with White Spirit for hand brushing, the paint will then flow/spread better with less brush marks and dry a bit more slowly. Best results using a wide/flat sable haired brush. BS245 is quality White Spirit, Ideal for thinning enamel paint for hand brushing, not the cheaper stuff used mainly as a brush cleaner etc

HTH

20 hours ago, GWR-fan said:

Lima actually did release a Commonwealth bogie on some of their RES GUV's.    This is a direct pushfit to the underframe.  Was the "Dining Car" and Roundel applied to an RBR?.

The CW bogies fitted to Lima RES GUV's were way under scale, better to use Replica Rail versions with Romford 14mm wheels although slots needed to be cut in the underframe for clearance.

On 27/06/2020 at 16:36, turbos said:

One more thing to remember is that Class 26/0 (the ones with the full length cantrail grills) didn’t have snowplough brackets and push pull Class 27 didn’t carry snowploughs either.

A few locos fitted with ploughs looks good, fitting all locos is a bit ott.

 

Brian.

27 204 had ploughs fitted....although not in PP days

Perhaps there are gutter differences between Donny and Romanian builds ? 086/093 do appear to have bigger cab gutter overhangs. Yes it looks like a 56 but the head on image shows the roof profile should be more of a constant dome shape as show in 1 not flatter towards the cab side windows.

2 hours ago, Daddyman said:

And do they know that they've chosen the two ETHELs that had no bogie sandboxes? Not that it matters much as the latest sample suggests a surplus sandbox here and there will be the least of this model's worries.  

Good point, I missed that one.............

Hopefully Exec ETHEL 3 is not produced with the yellow panels wrapped round the cab sides ?  as per this photo on Hatton's site.  

https://www.hattons.co.uk/384106/heljan_2541_class_25_3_ethel_train_heating_unit_asb97252_in_intercity_livery_unpowered_pri/stockdetail.aspx

It should look like this:

3 hours ago, St. Simon said:

Hi,

 

I’m close to the point at which I need to paint the track on my new layout.

 

Previously I have painted the rails by hand, but I have always found that this doesn’t look good and takes a long time if you have a large layout. So this time I’m looking at spraying the track, but I have a few questions:

 

1) What is the best colour available as a rattle can spray for rail rust and a general track colour for concrete sleepered track?

 

2) What is the best way of masking sleepers / rail clips so that they aren’t coloured by the rail rust colour?

I know that people will probably say that using an air brush is best, however I haven’t got an airbrush and I don’t particularly want to use an airbrush.

 

Simon

A rattle can is not really ideal for painting the track due to the amount of paint it puts out. An airbrush is much more suited as you can control the vol of paint and where it lands more accurately.

The rail clips and rail are usually the same colour. Narrow masking tape could be used to cover the sleepers down the centre and at each side of the rails before the rails/chairs are painted.  Other than that it's a paint brush job......

If a rattle can be your choice, either Railmatch or Pheonix Precision I think do spray cans of suitable colours.