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LNWR lives on

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  1. Hi Peter, Best of luck with both locomotives, id suspect they may be as bad as each other but i suppose it would depend on your scale and curve radius? The underframe I think is available in 30FT 1 IN and 32FT, so would it be slightly short for your PO van? I would say go for it, if I can manage to get the underframe built to a reasonable standard (I am not near 100% happy with my first go) then pretty much anyone could do it. My Advice would be read the instructions through and have a real good think about the kit before you start building as I think when I start a second one I will be doing things a little different from the instructions, such as not soldeing the bolts in as early as it then means it rocks while working on a flat surface. I would probably also add some of the details and smaller parts in a different order. David
  2. So £22 later I am back in business with a Maplin temperature controlled iron, which is taking a bit of getting used to but is definitely a nice little iron. The Underframe has progressed; a little messier than I would like but I think that is down to 1, the tip holding a different amount of solder than the previous iron and 2, the flux I am using is for white metal and could do with being a bit tougher/thicker for the nickel silver. Managed to sort our a few pain jobs such as small details and filling joints on the POW as well as the details to the coach chassis so no photos to show of yesterdays progress
  3. Peter, The real life versions did have centre wheel flanges, and I think (Check before you spend!) if you utilise the modern brass chassis from the current GEM owner you can fit flanged centre wheels as it has compensation/movement to allow for it. At the moment my intentions is to get as many locos running as possible, and go back later when I have more time and money to improve/replace the older chassis that I am currently utilising. Having had a good think the Experiment will be my next loco build while the lessons learnt from the POW are fresh in my mind. David
  4. Brassey, The POW is utilising a Hornby/Triang B12 chassis, of which this is one of the later versions and that's why it has flangeless centre wheels. The older version I have to go under a second GEM kit as an Experiment also has flangeless centres. I would guess that they fitted flangeless wheels to allow the B12 to go around the 1st/2nd radius set track curves David
  5. So I got up a nice head of steam when I got home from work and started adding the finer details of the brake shoes and wire, unplugged the soldering iron to head downstairs for tea and when I went back up afterwards the soldering iron is not working, have changed the 3A fuse and checked the plug socket is working but no go Most unimpressed as was really making some progress and now will have to wait until I buy a new iron. I had been thinking about buying a better quality iron (I believe Antex 25W seem to be the popular choice) as the one which has gone kaput is only a work-zone one but wasn't quite ready to spend as yet So some details were instead added to the POW, underframe was put away safe in a box and the desk got a bit of a tidy up, so no photos to show tonight
  6. Jol, No worries. I am really enjoying building the under-frame, its a much different challenge to white metal but also more forgiving with the soldering iron as well. Its not the best build you will ever see featured on RMWeb (referring to my workmanship, not the kit) but its going together and will be useable Definitely making me think that I could tackle a etched loco kit David
  7. Theres not enough hours in the day to work and model in equal balance....

  8. So wood was cut and folding ensued on the main floor section in the vice with the three bearing frames following quickly behind One ‘annoyance’ was that an instruction reads solder 10BA bolt to the centre floor holes, so I soldered the two bolts into the floor thinking they looked long but must be a reason later on, to find another instruction a few steps on saying solder two 6mm 10BA bolts into the floor for bearing units. So those bolts insitu now will have to be replaced or cut down later on. The units were assembled together as per instructions and with the coach body dry fitted on top this is where we are at with Hornby wheels acting as donors for now Brake gear and footboards are next jobs to be carried out though some research is required to determine if full or short lower footboard is the correct version to fit. Gas cylinders will be omitted as I just dont think you will see enough of them once the footboards and brake detail is added. If I am going to do more etched kits (Which if this coach works well will be another 5 of these minimum as well as anything else) then I think an investment in a smooth jawed vice and/or a small folding machine would be a very good idea.
  9. Nile, Is yours on the original Keyser White metal side frames? I have aquired a further two coaches since the Hornby batch with the Keyser underframes as ideally I want a set of 5, and then I want some of the variants which also appeared. The guard is part of the casting, and usually was found on both sides. I have not made my mind up as yet wether to remove him or not from mine Dave
  10. While glue and paint has been drying on POW and some wagons another project has been started, which began several years ago with an impulse purchase off eBay which should not have been made. When the package arrived I discovered that the Keyser bodies has been attached to Hornby 6 wheel underframes as the below picture shows. The paint job was also very heavy. Roofs had been cut and shut from Hornby van roofs, so all in all they are a bit of a mess. So, the LNWR liveried units were taken to pieces and put into a bath of paint stripper, and then as much remaining paint as possible was removed and the corners sharpened utilising a clay makers tool with sharp edges. A quick solder later and the coach body is back together The trial replacement underframe is from London Road Models as utilised underneath their range of LNWR 6 wheel coaches. The main section has been removed from the underframe and the rivets embossed, and that’s as far as I have got until I cut some sharp edged wood to go into the vice to be able to fold up the sides.
  11. Nile, Having been tackling the brake van, just want to say I have full respect for what you have achieved. On mine the main body and chassis went together well but the detailing is proving 'fun' How did you fold up the footboards? The short sections I have found ok, but the long section between the axle boxes I have found to be a pig to fold up David
  12. I have not had chance to update of late but progress has been made The George has now had details added and has received a good coat of primer. I am now considering if I am brave enough to add Micro-mark rivets to the smoke box before final application of blackberry black unlined livery. The tender did not go together well and having built the POW tender below I now understand why. I did not drill the axle-boxes out well enough and get the side frames to sit low enough which is why it is now sitting higher than the locomotive. Another lesson learnt and a replacement tender to be sourced at a later date The POW boiler has been fitted to the footplate and with some removal of metal underneath is now running. Further surgery is required where the con rod screws are clipping the footplate internally, not stopping it running when in motion but is causing a short if stopped in the wrong position. The front bogie truck needs some attention to replace the existing metal strap to position it further forward. More to follow….
  13. Jol, With regards to Penlans picture, how long did this livery last? Was it right through to the grouping period or from the late 1850's to??? Nile, How did you get on with fitting the roof? The one I am working on is nowhere near the correct profile David
  14. ref the LNWR version, North Western Album by CC Dorman has a picture of a the D16 brake van with Diamonds only livery behind a 2-4-2 tank Seem to remember reading in this thread that pictures are rare
  15. Both brake vans looks superb Nile What brand/colour paint did you use for the LNWR brake? David
  16. If you can afford it I would be with Coach on this one, you have done the hard work with the chassis, you obviously have the skills so mount a body on it that deserves to be there, put the Dapol back together if you can and let it go on ebay. Comparing the pictures the Comet body looks so much sharper than the Dapol version
  17. What is very scary is that you are capturing the essence of Conwy so well and yet you are producing the model 10500 miles away!!!!!!!! Keep the progress coming, its really starting to look superb
  18. It looks a nice build and not something you get built very often, but the price? ? ? ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OO-GAUGE-KIT-BUILT-LNWR-CORNWALL-AND-WEBB-COUPE-/131217587701?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item1e8d2d7df5#ht_5351wt_1399
  19. I am with jon, use the combination of knife at the front to make it sharp and soften it to the brush as you go further back so it gives perspective to the backscenes As with everything its trial and error, so give your preferred option a go and see what you think I also second Stu's question, why the North Wales coast predominatly for your layout? Dave
  20. Nile, Loving the D16 brake van, I have one of these awaiting building once I can get hold of some 135 flux paste and solder How easy have you found it to build the chassis up? David
  21. Andy, Just a very odd thought, but have you thought about cutting out the sheets prepainted where possible? Was just sat thinking about your process of laminating the layers and wondered if it was possible? I dont know how much it would achieve though..... Cheers David
  22. I think it was a 12mm Romford plan axle wheel which went in the radial truck. As its the grandsons layout id assume its going around fairly tight radius, so its worth putting a slither of plasticard on the inside of the bunker section to prevent the wheels coming into contact with the body and shorting out occurring I have one made up which thunders around fairly happily and makes an impressive looking site, a second is awaiting building so I can have a double header excursion with some GWR coaches. Good luck with the project
  23. For an LNWR Coal hole there was quite a comphrensive article by Jack Nelson in one of the modelling magazines, I have a copy I can scan and send if you want (PM me if required), also he gives a lot of measurements and in his book LNWR portrayed on coal holes and I think other arrangements
  24. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OO-Guage-LMS-Diesel-/321403569571?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276#ht_408wt_1156 Answers on a postcard????
  25. So after a break while track planning which has now been left with my Dad for a fresh pair of eyes to look at and adjust the pointwork because my mind has gone numb with it, loco building has resumed with a LNWR Prince of Wales, out of the box so far has come the main loco parts After Sunday morning filing and a few hours with the soldering iron on Monday the main components are together, with the boiler being loose fitted for now pending being filled before final fitting. The spectacle plate again does not fit well and has been trimmed with some more trimming required, but the boiler top half casting is also not perfect as has been discovered once fitted, it should have been put into a vice and tightened to give it a better curve as such. A bit of work on both factors will I think solve this, and as the next build will probably be the Experiment which has the exact same boiler with a different front smokebox Biggest aggravation of the weekend came when having checked, cleaned and oiled a B12 chassis for the POW once having been put on the track to have a run around the pick up spring decided it had had enough of life and broke, so a new spring will have to be sourced or made, my favourite job L
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