MartynJPearson

Where else could you get such a fine example of wonky sticker application, followed by the valiant but futile attempt to peel it off again from the corner with the final air of defeat as the wrinkled corner is pressed back down.

You mean it's going to take the whole afternoon?

Of course the real giveaway that the line has been held open and you're not talking to your bank is that they'll answer quickly. Unless the scammers have cottoned on to this and now make it more realistic by keeping you on hold for an hour while a recording tells you that they're still using Covid as an excuse for poor service.

I had a look in my copy of the excellent book Colour Light Signalling for Model Railways by Simon Paley @St. Simon, but couldn't see any mention of a height. The diameter of the standard boards is 900mm, 450mm for miniature boards if that helps as a guide to working out a height from a photo.

This seems rather optimistic - particularly when you look at completed listings... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393482002851?hash=item5b9d5ae1a3:g:oK8AAOSwifZhCWAJ

Very sad news. I had the pleasure of spending a day with Mick on one of his weathering courses. Had a lovely day, learned a lot and found Mick to be a really nice chap with a lot of talent and knowledge which he was only too happy to share. Thoughts are with his friends and family.

Was the Brit it landed on hurt?

This caught my eye... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144119575546?hash=item218e3233fa:g:vHEAAOSwi2lg9fcd Not sure which prototype it is based on, but presumably one used to shunt around 2 hour long video cassettes.

Mary had a little lamb, She wondered many times, Why that little lamb, Was the subject of so many rhymes Quite proud of that one given that my normal poetic prowess is limited to the one about a lady from Devizes.

It didn't work for me - it looks like you might have put up a link to the editor as the author of the video. This link should work though... Edited to add - fantastic video. There's so much there to see!

Not just Swindon, this is really confusing for my kids... They need the right hand lane if they want to go and see their Gran, not the left.

MERG is another option - they have a few train detection "Pocket Money Projects" kits. You'd need to be a member of MERG, but the kits are only a couple of pounds each so may work out cheaper. Assuming that is you're happy doing soldering to make the kits. If going down the detection route (rather than the camera route) one thing that you might like to think about is whether you want just one train in the loop and therefore more detectors. I have a slightly longer length of hidden track but want to utilise it for several trains of different lengths (I need to best utilise the space otherwise Mrs P might suggest I have "too many trains", silly concept) so in my case I want to break the length of track into say 6 inch blocks with detectors so that I can exactly which bits are occupied and can add other trains without risk of collision (well, no more risk than my usual ham fisted driving). There is a MERG kit which flashes a low powered laser (from a laser pointer) towards a photodiode and detects when the beam is broken, indicating that the track is occupied. My thinking is to scale this up somewhat with the use of an Arduino. So, another option - but of course as well as electronics, that also throws coding into the mix too!

This one is in Langar, Nottinghamshire. Probably more like 80 miles from a port! Worryingly, it is at the entrance to an industrial estate where the bus company that does my daughter's school bus is based. Hope it's not their drivers that need the reminder

Hope he hasn't got a dog, otherwise I feel very sorry for the postie.

Noo, otherwise we'd have mentioned the aptly named Sir Not-Appearing-In-This-Thread

I think one's missing, in fact I'm sure. It's a Sir Tunty.

The instructions for the 32-685SDSF (45041 Royal Tank Regiment) say ESU 21MTC Loksound V5 with an 8 ohm 40mm x 20mm Tray Type speaker.

When I originally commented I was going to say something along the lines of the book being able to stand on it's own as a signalling book without reference to model railways. So maybe there is a market for two books - one as you suggest without modelling aspects, covering purely signalling and it's varieties over time and location and then a second taking that content and putting it into practice in model form. As for the second book, chapters on putting signalling principles into practice in model form could serve as a groundwork to more practical chapters on representing signals in model form. Whatever direction you choose, best of luck with it!

I have a copy of the book and found it really interesting. I find the format of the books easy on the eye and the huge amount of pictures backing up the content really helps. In terms of what I'd like to see in another book, I think it would be good to have a chapter or two on the modelling aspects. There are so many examples of different signals that the off the shelf suppliers are never going to be able to recreate every variety so perhaps some ideas on how to scratchbuild or adapt the off the shelf items would be welcome. As an example, I like the TrainTech signals and I'm currently mulling over how to combine their three aspect signal and ground signal to act as a position light for entry into a depot.

I bought off eBay a Loksound 3.5 decoder with the SWD Class 31 V2 project on it for my Hornby class 31 (R2413A) and have a bit of a problem. I follow the driver training notes in the data sheet - turn the sound on, let it settle, set speed to 10% (so 13ish on the scale of 0 - 126 on my Prodigy Advanced Squared), let the sound settle again, then increase the throttle to accelerate. At this point, the loco accelerates but it is some time later that the notching up sound takes place. So much so that if I choose to stop the loco again it is still sometimes notched up whilst it is braking and stopping. I tried a reset (CV8 = 8) as the instructions mentioned this and didn't caution against it, but to no effect. I've also tried increasing the value of CV3 and while that helps a bit it doesn't solve the problem, just masking it slightly. Might there be a CV I can change to correct this? I did a search and saw a few references to drive off delay on TTS decoders, but this seems like it is delaying the acceleration to after the sound. This would mean that I would increase the throttle and everything would take several seconds to react; what I'd really want is for the sound to kick in as soon as possible after upping the throttle and then the loco can respond by increasing speed. Haven't noticed this on any other Loksound 3.5 fitted locos, or indeed a Loksound 4 which also has an SWD project on it, so hopefully it's not driver error

Give them their dues, it is super rare to see someone try it on to such an extent.

Using "serve" as a noun feels painful too, unless of course you are talking about tennis.

One other thing to consider is the effect of the magnet on steel wheels. I fixed Kadee magnets on my layout and whilst coupling works fine, my small TAA tankers lurch when you go over them slowly. If you think that might be an issue, pivoting them so you can move the magnet away from the track when not needed might be an idea.

Yes, the modern one, R023a. The discontinued one I referred to was the original R023, looks like you can't download that one any more.

I had a go at building the Scalescenes modern diesel depot. Never actually finished it, more down to circumstances rather than a reflection on the kit, but some observations... The concrete "ribbing" can be rather time consuming, you have to cut a "comb" of card and it can be a bit fiddly to make it even. The discontinued older version of the depot was worse as it have even more of the stuff. I seem to remember having issues with the roof - being slightly out of line when scoring the centre line meant it was a bit of an effort to get it to look right again. I think the designer does try to allow for some inaccuracy with cutting, but in my case not enough! I had a go building an alternative out of Wills bits following a similar design; not sure which was easier or more effective. One thing that I was a bit miffed to find was that the OHP film I printed the windows on has turned a little opaque with a blue hue. Of course, other manufacturers / products may vary. On the whole it was a nice looking kit - I think the Scalescenes brickwork looks a lot better than some of the other printable kits out there.