Adam

If you look closely, there's a fair bit, well, there is given that the photos are a couple of times life-size, but all necessary and polished to within an inch of its life! That looks pretty impressive. How were you planning to make it go?

Adam

I can't help but think that the reality of what happened the S&M was rather more interesting (visually and operationally), though the concept is nice.

http://bryanboskett.fotopic.net/p55872791.html

http://bryanboskett.fotopic.net/p55872792.html

The rest of the collection ishere.

Adam

A Taff Vale class A if I'm not mistaken, Adam. Nice one Barry10!

 

Chris

Thanks Chris (and Al).

Adam

Nice pre-group (albeit Western-ised) 0-6-2 as well. Which one is it?

Adam

They're certainly coming on nicely - have you any 3' gauge stock planned to go with these? Or is that an unfair question?

Adam

It's a very nice rendition of the livery, very accurate, or at least, it would be applied to the right wagon. Nice models, you clearly work rather faster than I do!

Adam

I won't be making the roof removeable - just that I'll need to paint inside the cab before I do fit it! Hence dry fit. Not sure if I'll then be-able to solder it on (that would be ideal) but I'll be definitely making it a good fit with rounded corners like the prototype even if I have to glue and use filler.

That approach strikes me as making rather a lot of unnecessary work for yourself and at the expense of rather a lot of additional handling and re-finishing of a part-complete model while making good all the joins. If you can get the motor bogie out, do and do the cab properly. Nice work otherwise.

Adam

Great technique. Black is always a difficult colour to weather...

Thanks - it took several passes and sufficient patience to allow the weathering to dry properly. It isn't nearly as bad as white or yellow however...

Adam

I'm not familiar with the prototype but they look very nice.  Maybe helped by the underlying model and modelling.

 

A step by step for the weathering when you do some more might be worth considering.

 

Thanks for posting.

 

Cheers,

 

26power

Now that I know it works as a technique, I'll see what I can do but it might be a wee while - I'm going from a painting phase into a building phase just at the moment, but thanks again.

Adam

Inadvertent duplicate deleted. Oops.

Great stuff Adam, the scruffier being my fave too.

The safety loops are a very nice touch and are really effective. Presume some fine wire ?

 

I have a stash to build for my Stourport power station traffic.

 

Thanks for posting

Yep, 0.3 Nickel Silver from Eileen's Emporium. There are some earlier blog entries showing them without paint - I mounted them to the floor on some bits of 40 thou' with small holes drilled 13mm apart.

Very nice weathering there. One thing that may be worth noting though - I've seen issues with thinned Matt Cote before - specifically it wearing off with time. Not sure if this could be a problem in the future when mixed with enamels as you've done, but may be worth considering giving the models a final finishing varnish coat of something more durable, such as Testors Dullcote.

I'm ahead of you there, I'd observed something similar...

Adam

Adam

Thanks chaps, there's another one on the way sometime, and perhaps another couple when I'm in the mood. The transfers came from Modelmaster (4608), via Parkside Pete. You get two pairs on the sheet, but none of the other* brandings these carried. If you manage to get all four onto the side of a wagon you'll do better than I - the peelable varnish coat peeled rather too soon! I think Cambridge Custom Transfers will do these as well, and this is probably a better bet.

Adam

*Surprisingly varied

Adam your example looks superb. I hope to be able to get a good finish, it will be a good learning experience and with a reliable drive system in the bag (and not have to worry about building a solid, reliable chassis as well) I expect it will become a bit of a sentimental example in my collection.

Thanks - lots of masking tape to sort out the stripes, nothing very complicated. Still my favourite diesel model that.

Thanks for the window tip - I had planned to cut them out of CD box cases to get a lovely flush fit, I'll look at how that part of the kit goes together and if necessary adjust my plans. What did you use for the glazing? I only thought CD case material as it was more rigid then the usual flimsy acetate sheet which doesn't really look like glass to me - somehow it's too thin?!

10 thou' clear plastic sheet I think, goodness knows where from. I suspect the CD case material might be a bit thick for this one as the edges will probably show up, but worth a go.

Adam

I've enjoyed looking in on this build, very impressive. I think you're right to go for a non-working beacon the right size rather than an oversize working one which would look wrong whateveryou did. A suggestion: I think that the window frames on these are aluminium or similar in colour? What I've done in the past is to tin these sorts of items with solder and to gently polish them which lends strength until the glazing goes in.

Adam

I know the sort of thing you mean Brian. I might give that a go if the current plan involving some thick foil (courtesey of M&S gastro-pub packing...) doesn't come off. I need to experiment with some paper templates first however. Watch this space.

Adam

Hi John, thanks. No, spindles (ABS castings), so a '58 build (I think), the shanks on the self-contained alternatives - which I didn't have in stock - would be about twice the diameter. The white background and reflection from the whitemetal is a bit misleading. Just before the weather turned it recieved a coat of red-oxide, and has now progressed to the lettering and underframe painting phase. I'll take a picture next time the light is right, but that might well be in a coat of paint or two's time...

Adam

Thanks, yellow is an absolute swine of a colour to weather over as it shows exactly what you managed to miss... I took the easy(!) way out and masked it. Each manufacturer of industrial diesels had their own pattern of stripes and this effort is based on Rolls Royce/Sentinel's factory finish. The transfers are generally meant for BR liveried 08s. It's taken from this image as it happens (but in the condition the loco would have been delivered in rather than as it was in 1993 since I model the '60s period):

http://www.geoffspages.co.uk/grp/image.asp?Colour05/Bromford_14_4_93.jpg

More here:

http://www.geoffspages.co.uk/raildiary/sentinels/index.htm

http://www.geoffspages.co.uk/raildiary/nwind/index.htm

My opinion (and it's only that) is that the lights aren't worth the effort since you can't see 'em/they weren't used in daylight, though the flashing beaon probably is.

I'm pleased with the running. It's EM, has simple three point compensation with Sharman wheels and a High Level 108:1 gearbox in it and is pretty smooth and appropriately slow, in accordance with a real machine which has a 21mph top speed.

Adam

So are you going for the six-coupled or 4w (or four-coupled for that matter?)? The link to the '68 publication is interesting, though, having built one already, nothing I didn't already know!

The cab doors on the real thing slide btw and perhaps surprisingly, the cab is very small and you can't see as much of the interior as you might think. Nice prototype and a good kit, even if you do the most common, 4w variant on a Black Beetle you'll learn a lot. If you want any advice on this one, please ask.

Adam

I'd looked at that, but the stuff we have in stock is too thin. It needs to form but not give, if you see what I mean. The military modellers tend to use lead foil, but I doubt either Modelzone in Southampton or the aeromodel shop do it. This is surprisingly readily available in bulk - you can get it by the roll from 0.15mm upwards - it's used as shielding in labs, but you'd have to model every clayhood in Cornwall to make that wholly cost effective!

Adam

Looks like nice neat work Andy. I've done a few of these stripy finishes now and have always used a variation on this approach, as each manufacturer of industrial locos had their own way of doing it, and being particular, I like to at least try to get it right!

The variation is to get the registration correct - I use more strips of the correct width to register the neighbouring stripes and then, once happy, remove it. Trying to do it by eye is a pig of a job...

Adam

Thanks! Still not certain on how to do the hood. Since these had some of the early plastic coated jobs rather than old fashioned tarp's tissue isn't going to cut it (had a go anyway last night, but not happy), so some sort of foil would seem to be the answer. Now, where to get it...

Adam

Both of those look really good and the layering isn't so pronounced on the Ravenscraig vehicle as might have been supposed, though as you suggest, I doubt that the rivets will survive the rub-down. I was imprssed by the progress on the Brush-Bagnall BO-BO as well, very encouraging.

Adam

It was the layers I was thinking of, some of the earlier versions look like some of the brutalist buildings you somethimes see with the witness marks of the rough timber shuttering used during the pour. This looks a lot better, as far as I can tell.

Adam

Are you going to splay the sides like the example in the link? I can't imagine that the wagons would have stayed so neat and tidy for long. I'd be interested to see what the prototyped ravenscraig wagon looks like under a spray of primer. Any form of resin (or plastic) is a swine to photgraph in its 'natural' state.

Adam

Hi Alastair

I had remembered the plastic parts (even made a nice brass template for them in fact), but wanted to finish waving the soldering iron around before I started with those. I don't know if you've seen this picture from Kier hardy's site (models by Hywel Thomas)? I can't seem to link to the page directly, but you want 'Projects' and 'Morfa Bank Sidings Wagon Gallery'.

http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/modelpageindex.html

The texture is an interesting question. I was thinking along the lines of talc mixed in with the paint and perhaps some other effects which the military modellers use. Watch this space...

Adam