Brian

Of course if CV29 read seven then you would reduce that by 1 or if it reads 39 you would make it 38. I didnt make that clear!! Sorry Post corrected. Ray H points the way in a much earlier post here. Of course if the link I provided in my original post to the CV29 calculator is used correctly then no such errors would be made!!

Hi To reverse the direction of travel of a DCC loco, use CV29 and add 1 to whatever is read currently in CV29. e.g. if you read 6 then make CV29 value 7, if it reads 38 make it 39 etc. If it read an odd number - 7 or 39 for example reduce that value by 1 This CV 29 calculator is a useful item to bookmark. CV29 calculator link while its the 2mm scale Association the calculator applies to all scales using standard DCC decoders.

Your twin speaker cable should be ok to use for lighting LEDs. You will need to ensure the positive feed wire is marked throughout - this may be by the insulation colour e.g. red etc or at times by a stripe/line on the one wires insulation. Just ensure you use the same wire throughout for the LED Anode (Positive) feed. Next comes the question of the need normally to add a series resistor. This resistor can be in either the positive feed to the LED or the Negative, it really doesn't matter. But do try and maintain a common standard i.e. all resistors are in the Negative (Cathode) LED lead etc. The only time a series resistor is not used is where the LED is supplied rated at the same as the supply voltage e.g. 12 volt rated LED, here the LED has a factory built in resistor. An additional resistor is then not needed, unless you wish to reduce the brightness of the LED then just add a series resistor of a Ohm value to reduce the light level - say in the 1K to 5K region. Power supply voltage hasn't been mentioned since Suzie suggested a 5v USB supply and the heading suggesting 3 volt. 3v IMO this is too low a voltage. I would use at least as a minimum 5 volts DC and possibly 12 volts DC. Both coming from a totally separate power source that is regulated too. Personally I use 12 volts DC feed from a power supply rated at 1.0Amp to 2.0Amp, There are many of these sold relatively inexpensively, often under the sales heading of "CCTV power supplies". eBay and Amazon have plenty and this is a typical example... 12 volt power supply example Normally all these so called CCTV 12v Power Supplies (PSU) are supplied with a moulded 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC plug. You can either cut off the moulded DC plug and connect the two wires as required or IMO it is far better to leave the plug intact and use a matching female connector, either one of these which allow very easy onward wiring Example connector or a chassis or In line style mating Female 2.1mm socket Note; the link I've placed for the PSU above that the same supplier sells these female connectors too. Series resistor. IMO for ease of use, use one resistor per LED. On a 12 volt power supply I always use at least a 1K0 (1000) OHM 1/4 watt or 1/3 watt type. This runs the LEd at a lower current and typically around 10milliamp (0.01A) per lit LED. They sell for pennies each on eBay etc Resistor example Resistors can be installed either way around as they are not polarity conscious devices. But LEDs are and they MUST be connected correctly to the supply. New LEDs have their longer lead as their positive (Anode) connection. All the links above are examples and there are of course many other suppliers too.

Hi I use the PA2 and find it an excellent piece of DCC kit. There are other DCC systems that work just as well of course. The PA2 will happily operate your layout. The Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog AFAIK only has one set of contacts. Therefore two would be needed and they would have to switch exactly at the same time! IMO a Dual Frog Juicer would be better as its all electronic. Or just use a conventional reverse loop module for electronic switching. However, cheapest of all is to use a DPDT switch fitted and operated by the entrance/exit point, so as when the point moves over to allow an exit the loops rails polarity swaps over! When the point is restored to the opposite position the loops rails revert to the original feeding polarity. Using a DPDT switch can at times cause sound locos to restart their sequence and some locos to stutter, as the contacts break and then make. Hence all electronic methods are far better than anything using change-over contacts

Yes you can do that. If your point motors are solenoids (which I'm assuming they are as you're mentioning 16v AC) then why not add a Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU) to the 16v AC output and allow the CDUs output to feed all the point motors? Then at no time should the GM WM1 become overloaded.

Wouldn't this question be far better posted on the MERG forum? Rather than a third party forum?? Many MERG members will on their forum offer views/comments/reviews!

<Bigger sigh> No its not, because you selectively edited the post and removed that quote. End of comments.... I'll not bother here again!

That's what I said isn't it? Or I thought i implied it? As I stated " Therefore the Auxiliary outputs cannot be used with Common return wiring" They can of course be used in total isolation, but they are not suitable for use with the common return! Which is what the question is about. Also worth remembering is that if these Aux outputs are used separately, they take power from the same supply that's feeding the rails. So it can become very easy to overload one transformer winding without realising it. Hence IMO a totally separate power source is better for each Aux needed. There is no reason where all the power sources are separate not to use common return for all track, all solenoid point motor returns and even all lighting etc it wished. So long as the return wire is of suitable wire size and all supplies connected to the common wire are totally separately feed.

There are two dual secondary wound transformers inside. Each secondary winding feeds its own 'Track' output. So the Track side it is fine for common return. The problem comes when anyone tries to use the Auxiliary outputs (2 x 16v AC and 2 x 12v DC) with common return, as each Aux output is taken from one of the windings that is also used for the tracks. Therefore the Auxiliary outputs cannot be used with Common return wiring. Here for aux power - (Solenoid point motor feeding / CDU input, layout lighting, feeding a non mains powered train controller etc) you need a totally separate power source.

While this topic seems to have drifted well away from the title, I thought I would bring it back! Faversham MRC has announced it has reluctantly had to cancel its 2020 exhibition due to have been held on Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th September 2020. We cannot under current government guidance/regulations host a show that allows for social distancing, food and drink to be consumed in a seated area by our visitors, arrange one way system or keep toilets etc free of possible virus infection. We hope to see all our visitors, exhibitors and traders in September 2021.

That may be the cause? You say it tests fine on a multimeter, but have you checked just how much AC its pushing out on the DC Track terminals? Set meter to read AC volts >20 and connect to track terminals. Turn up controllers speed knob and read any AC volts at full speed setting.

Gaugemaster WM1 will do the job as a stand alone unit. Or an old train controllers 16volt AC output. As too will a spare or new 18 to 20 volt DC ex laptop power supply, are all able to be feed into the CDU input.

What are you using as the DC power source for testing?

Look for Warm White LEDs that replicate filament lamps better. To reduce the brightness increase the series resistance value in Ohms. Either replace the existing resistor with a higher value one or add a second resistor in series to the first one. These have quite a good selection of Yard lamps This link is to their OO selection Link to Yard lights Don't forget that filament lit lights will get hot - very hot. LEDs run virtually cold. Also filament lamps will draw far more power per lit lamp, Typically between 4 and 7 times as much LED=10 to 20 milliamp and filament lamps = 40 to 70 milliamp each!) The Eckon EL-1 yard lamps are no longer manufactured and are very hard to find today. The Eckon yard lamps currently manufactured at this time is.... Link to On Line Models who make Eckon

Hi Just realised you're a DCC user! As the question is in the non DCC area, I thought you were a DC (Analogue) user! You can use your two wire Bi LEDs using the DCC and point frog polarity. Have a look here Link to item Scroll down a little.

Nigel is correct. They require reversing of polarity to change between red and green This could be done but generally it needs double pole double throw (DPDT) switching arrangement. I personally dislike having red and green point position indications on a panel. There are far too many LEDs lit and it becomes somewhat blinding and possibly confusing too? IMO all that is needed is one LED per direction (route) lit to show which way the point is set towards and not a second one showing its not set that way! Then its much simpler to wire and is like the real UK railway which never shows an unset light, only lit or unlit per route direction To note; real UK railways do not use green or red indications for point position either, they use white or a yellow indication! Red and green are reserved for signal aspect indications.

Hi If you dont fancy soldering wires onto switches then these are a good option!,,, Pre wire solenoid point switch or perhaps... Switch with PCB and terminals I would always recommend obtaining a CDU from then onset, Cost isn't that much at around £7 GBP Example.. CDU example link I have no connection with the company linked at all, and of course there are other suppliers too. Wire all solenoid points in 16/0.2mm minimum or if you already have rolls of 7/0.2 double up each wire

Whenever possible try not to solder droppers (regardless of their wire size) to the rails outer web area. They look unsightly! Instead and for an almost invisible look, solder them whenever possible to the rails undersides before laying the track. Passing them down to below baseboard via a centrally drilled hole between rails and a sleeper pair or if preferred by two small holes in line with the outer edge of the rails. I recommend at least a 25 watt iron and if possible a larger wattage, but fitted with a suitable sized bit.

Possibly?.... Link to RS Components Note the DC plug does not fit directly into the PCP socket . It needs a converter. The PCP DC input socket is 2.5 x 5.5 positive to centre. The plug on this RS power supply is 2.1 x 5.5. Coastal DCC have one 15 volt 1.6Amp plug-in power supply suitable for the PowerCab Coastal DCC

Never seen one in a commercial Toggle switch. Levers are of course different. But there is an option where a locking toggle switch can be used with solenoids. An example would be that each point has a On/On toggle switch plus its own dedicated non locking press to make push button. So the toggle switch provides the direction required and the PB provides the momentary pulse to the solenoid coil via the toggle switches contacts.

Hi Can I confirm some basic things with you. 1) The green plug on the rear of the PA is in fully inserted and the four wires in it are correctly stripped and secured by the green blocks screws. Remember the green plug pulls out to aid wiring and helps prevent damage to the main PCB when attaching/removing wires. 2) Your totally separate Programming track rails are actually separated from the main lines and the Programming tracks rails are feed from the 'Programming' output of the green plug. Obviously the Track pair of terminals go to the main layouts rails. The programming tracks rail tops are spotlessly clean - Ideally clean them before programming begins. 3) As you don't have a multimeter yet, with everything powered up and no locos on the rails, I assume the PA display works? If so, momentarily apply a short circuit across any two main line rails (Coin dabbed on and off across the rails will do) Does the PA go into immediate short circuit protection mode and the display change to SVdA. Dont forget if you do obtain a mutimeter the voltage on the rails is measured with the meter set to AC volts. This video may help with initial programming if all the above are correct..... Video re Programming

If you read my original post you would see that issue was covered with a comment to say several points can be moved at once. However, I doubt (not tried) that the latest Peco PL35 would do such? Certainly the original version (I had one to test) struggled to move two PL10 at once. No further comments from me as obviously all these replies are not helpful to the OP at all.

Yes of course I know that. I was trying to answer the OP question simply! But the number of points operated from any one panel or position and its CDU is not limited, as only usually one or two point motors only move together! Doesn't matter if you have 1 or 100 panels that was not what I was referencing.

Hi 1 or 40 points still only one CDU is needed. You only operate one or two points simultaneously usually . Some users may move more at one time via a diode matrix, but conventionally 1 or 2 at a time is the norm. The original Peco PL35 wouldn't blow the proverbial skin of a rice pudding but I understand it has been upgraded now. However there are far better CDUs available and often cheaper too. Look at the excellent BlockSignalling range Link to BlockSignalling or even the Gaugemaster CDU Gaugemaster link

No one able to help Jack? Bumped to push the post back up in case it can be answered.