Brian

Hi As this is the DCC section then basically you don't need anything done to the SL-90 and you can use metal rail joiners (Fishplates) all round. Operation wiring of the Seep PM1 is given further below. However, Peco suggest on their SL-90 leaflet that DCC users may like to convert the DS point into what can only be termed as a "semi electrofrog" point motor operated switch wiring! This involves cutting the link wires underneath each DS plastic frog area and twisting together the two wires coming from the frog rails. Solder these to a piece of flexible wire and do the same at the other end of the DS too. Fit IRJ (Insulated Rail Joiners) to rail ends of the DS and take the two newly fitted frog wires to the layouts underside and connect the left hand frog wire to the right hand PM1 tab F. Connect the right hand frog wire to F on the left hand PM1. Feed power from the normal DCC feed rails or from the DCC Bus pair to PM1 tabs D & E on each motor. Ensuring these two feed wires are the correct way around on each motor. Add as necessary new DCC rail feeds on the main tracks after the IRJs fitted on the DS. An amended extract of the Peco SL-90 leaflet attached showing Seep PM1 connections. For Seep PM1 operation link together tabs C and take a wire from one C to the common return wire for all motor return connections (Assuming you have a common motor return wire). Feed one connection on your momentary lever or non locking panel switch etc to Seep tab A and the other connection to tab B. Do the same for the other lever or switch to the other Seep Pm1 A & B tabs. Use 16/0.2mm (0.5mm2 or 20AWG) wire minimum for all connections.

Coming to the "Party" a bit late.. Can I ask ... Are you measuring the rail to rail voltage with the meter set to its AC voltage range? DC is not correct for measuring DCC rail voltages. Assuming AC is used be aware that most 'Domestic' style multimeter do not display an accurate reading. But what is read should be constant all around the layout. Any major loss of voltage indicates a issue that needs resolving ASAP Is every section of track fitted with two dropper wires that connect to a larger wire size DCC Bus pair? Or are you relying on the metal rail joiners (Fishplates) to pass data and power rail to rail? If the latter, I would recommend you consider soldering droppers to as many rails as possible and just allow the rail joiners to align the track together. Edit to correct typo.

Hi Just one pair of Bus wires feed all tracks. Dropper wires feed off the bus pair to the rails above. But do use two different wire colours for the bus pair - e.g. Red and Black and in a smaller wire size for the droppers - Red and Black (or whatever insulation colours you choose!) Ensure all red connect everywhere to outer rails and all black to inner rails etc. Ideally solder the dropper wires to the bus wires and to the rails too. However there are alternatives to soldering to the bus pair. You could use Scotchlock (suitcase) connectors of the correct size. Cut up terminal blocks Or even Wago style connectors are a few suggestions.

You MUST either replace the R602 Hornby power clips and Power track sections R8206 everywhere for DCC versions - R8242 and R8241. Or simply use a small flat blade screwdriver and flip open the cover on each existing clip or track section and cut out the small capacitor fitted inside (there is nothing else in there other than connections). Discard the capacitor and close up the cover. The altered R602 power clip or R8206 are now suitable to use on DCC. Adding a DCC power Bus pair feed by the console is the best way to ensure 100% power and data transfer around the layout. Then add smaller wire sizes dropper wires soldered to the rails above, ensuring correct polarity is maintained everywhere. TBH on a small sized layout adding droppers to every track section may be OTT? Personally, if going with a Bus pair and droppers, I would add droppers to every third or fourth section of track and rely on the metal rail joiners for transfer to non dropper fitted rails. If you get a power/data problem in a section then you can always add more droppers as needed. But for starters just use the power clips/track sections as now, but ensure these power clips/track sections have the internal capacitor removed. Add Hornby R8232 DCC point clips (2 per point) to each point to overcome the points self isolating feature. If the track is as per the plan above then you have 6 point and would need 12 clips. Personally I really dislike these point clips (staples) but for a starter they are probably OK. You can't beat hard wired connections though. Oh to add... Ensure all locos are fitted with a Decoder. Do not let non decoder fitted locos sit on DCC powered rails. The locos motor will burn out if left on DCC powered rails. Equally avoid using the Hornby address of 0 (zero) to run a DC loco. It is not recommended, even Hornby do not recommend this!

Assuming each lit LED draws around 20 milliamp (0.02A) then a 2.0Amp PSU will light some 100 lit LEDs. More if the LED current is reduced to 10ma by using a 1K (1000 Ohm) series resistor, Then your into 200 lit signals Max. Note, around a10% headway should be allowed on the PSU, so I suggest 95 lit on a 1.0Amp and 180 lit on a 2.0Amp supply! Do you have that many signals?? Go for the 2.0Amp PSU and you will have ample power for other things too! Buildings, Street and Platform LED lighting etc. Edited to correct errors!

A 12volt regulated CCTV or LED power supply should be fine. I use eBay mainly and here is a typical example Link to eBay sale Cost depending on current output, but around £7ish I would at the same time obtain a DC female connector 2.1mm from the same supplier. Makes onward connection to the layout simple.

High Hopes panel... 3mm aluminium professionally printed with MERG CBus panel control electronics inside.

Active?? Do you mean Live? Put a green Passed tag on the extension after repairing it... Technically it should have a Red Failed tag and the plug cut off. But if the owner agreed to you repairing or replacing the extension cable then that is fine, so long as the repair passes all tests afterwards. Replacing an incorrectly rated fuse in the plug should I believe really be FOC by the PAT Tester, as a fuse costs around 10p and its cost is more than covered by the testing charge, assuming a charge is being leveed? Even if its a free testing, the cost should be bourn my the tester IMO. Also IMO and as a qualified PAT tester of some at least 13 plus years, replacing an incorrectly rated fuse is not a fail, its a comment to the equipment owner! At times I do wonder how some PAT testers make a living, especially if they fail everything! But perhaps that is how they make money! Edit to correct typo.

I imported my MRC PA way back in 2002 from a USA retailer long before Gaugemaster rebadged them. Of course its not the Squared version, but works very well. Then it cost me around £120 plus P & P to import. The seller stated on the customs declaration it was a "Toy" which I guess it is? So it didn't attract any import duty or VAT. Gaugemaster will not entertain any repairs or upgrades, but MRC will do this for around $30-$40 US dollars plus P & P. But I'm rather reluctant to send a working PA back and possibly never see it again! Or incur an import/VAT duty! So I'm leaving as supplied and it works very well. I also have a NCE PowerCab with upgraded software via a new chip. That also works very well. Then there is the SPROG II and a Hornby eLink. Not used the eLink, but I do use the SPROG II with JMRI for loco decoder setting and records.

Tortoise? .. Tortoise link Personally have moved away from solinoid and slow motion motors as per above and have used Servos on my latest layout all controlled by MERG servo controllers in self build kits and MERG servo mounts and packs of micro switches. Of course ready built servo controllers are also available from suppliers like for example Megapoints, Heathcote Electronics or even Peco My MERG ones cost around £4.90 per point end - (eBay) SG9 servo motor, (MERG) Servo mount, 2 x micro switches and a quarter of a Servo 4 controller. Great slow motion operation and fully controllable for speed and position of drive.

Yes of course a short will turn all power OFF unless the train controller can trip before the WM1 trips (unlikely!) or possibly dim them, but that is again not what the OP was asking and hinting towards. He was referring to the speed control knob turn off the LEDs!!! Lets keep things on course or it just becomes a jumble of comments In fact by far the best is to let the WM1 operate the train (16v AC) and have a totally separate DC power supply for the LEDs, But this is not the question that was asked and which is what I answered!

Correct. But only a real concern if powering Electronics or anything that requires a smoothed and stable DC supply. LEDs with suitable series resistors (e.g.1K to 1K5) will be fine, which is what the OP wanted.

Hi Seems to be a bit of confusion... The Gaugemaster WM1 comes with a small circuit board that the WM1 plugs into. This circuit board provides 2 separate outputs.... One of 16volts AC and another of 12 volts DC (Rectified AC via a small Bridge Rectifier on the board) . Both can be used.. Normally the 16v AC would feed the input to a Hand held controller or small panel mounted controller while the 12v DC is used for anything else - in your case LED lighting. Therefore the 12v DC coming from the little board is continuous and is not altered by the controllers setting. The major problem is the total output which is rated according the GM at just 3/4 Amp (750ma) yet strangely the PSU label states "16v AC at 16 VA" which is 1.0Amp. Perhaps the bridge rectifier is low current rated on the PCB board? So using the 16vAC to power a tiny layouts controller and the 12v DC to power a few LEDs shouldn't really cause too much of a concern. Most modern small DC locos will only consume around 250 milliamp (1/4 Amp) and some even less.

Hi Ditch the train set controller for powering lighting! Obtain a Regulated power supply like for example this one Link to example in the 2.0Amp rating at 12volts. Also worth while obtain from the same supplier is the 2.1mm female DC barrel adaptor to make onward wiring easy. Other suppliers are of course available. You will then have a constant voltage being feed to all the lights. I always fit one resistor per lit LED. On a 12volt supply I start at 1K (1000 Ohms) and increase the resistance to reduce brightness as required. Going up to around 10K (10000 Ohm) or more if need be. 1K resistors are less than 2p each when purchased by the 100 Example... Link to resistors

The NCE PowerCab also has Rotary Encoder failures too. See NCE Encoder failures. MRC or NCE are not IMO overly prone to these failures, though like anything they can occur. The great thing is that MRC/Gaugemaster can be repaired here in the UK and its only recently that I understand Coastal DCC has been able to supply and I believe? offer a NCE repair service? Otherwise an NCE handset, for a manufacturers repair, has to be sent back to the USA! Of course if you're handy with a soldering iron, then a suitable Encoder is not really that harder job to replace yourself, but doing so would end any warranty or possibly any later repairs by the manufacturers or agents?

If you can follow detailed instructions and solder components onto a pre made printed circuit board, then seriously consider joining MERG and obtaining their Dual Hector kit, which offers two IR detectors with separate outputs for just £8.93 (£4.47 per detection). Then there is their DCC only DCT2 or DCT8 current operated block section detectors - 2 channel DCT2 is £6.80 (£3.40.channel) while the larger 8 channel version is £24.42 (£3.05 per channel). While there is a a small membership fee of £16.00. IMO its well worth the cost, as not only are there some very high quality kits for DCC, many kits are produced for non DCC general use and also kits available for two wire layout control independent of DCC, such as CBUS or EzyBus to name but two systems. Pocket Money Projects with Strip Board assembly from as little as £0.29 to around £3.00 each. Pocket money kits with PCBs costing around £2-£3 ish each. A four times a year printed magazine delivered to your chosen address and a excellent forum where ideas, suggestions and help is readily available. Plus technical support if needed too.

Stated in the WM1 leaflet the connector is 2.1 x 10mm Output: 16V AC @ 1.1 Amps @ 25 deg C via 2.1 x 10 mm power socket and cable. By the 10mm I think they are referring to the barrels length not its diameter

A few days ago I sent MRC in the USA an email asking about their entire Prodigy range which shows most DCC items out of stock on their web site (Except for the 10AMp Elite). I asked was the Prodigy range being replaced or upgraded or was there some other issues that are causing the no stock issue both in the USA and here via Gaugemaster. While they didn't say what the cause of their problems were, they replied with the message below.... "We will have more Prodigy systems coming in stock. We're looking at around mid to late February for most Prodigy products. We do not have an ETA for the wireless products". So I guess it will take until April ish for GM to regain UK stock? Assuming MRC stock arrives as expected.

The drawing supplied above isn't quite correct according to the Railway Modeller article February 2020 page 158. Cliff has the microswitch pin numbers shown incorrect. The Common tabs are 1 & 4 using his drawing numbering. Therefore 1 goes to Frog 2 & 3 to the rails. While 4 has the power supply +ve and 5 & 6 to the LEDs Anodes. Looking at the microswitch image it appears pins 1 and 4 are slightly further way from 2&4 and 5&6.

Correct re ink wire on the Hornby R044 lever It should have not been shown! Just the Yellow wire in either narrow sides port and the middle hole for the other yellow wire . Drawing above amended.

Here is a drawing for both Peco PL26 and Hornby R044 Black lever. I haven't shown the two power wires for the signal for drawing clarity.

When using a suitable CDU and input power supply you should have no problems with either Push to Make non locking press buttons or Sprung to centre Off Toggle switches or even good old fashioned Stud & Probe selection. However, do ensure if operating two or more solenoid motors from one switch/PB or Stud & P that you ensure the feed wires are robust in wire size. My recommended minimum is always 16/0.2mm especially for Seep motors that are quite power hungry! Where two (or more) solenoids are operated together from one switch etc then increase their shared common return wire to a absolute minimum wire size of 24/0.2mm and better if 32/0.2, All this increased wire sizes ensures 100% operation, whether one or more solenoid motors are moved at once.

Yes you can do that. (Its my web sites drawing BTW) You're looking at using a sort of common positive CDU bus connector then from that wired to each switches middle tab from the connector. No problem. But do ensure the feed wire from the CDU to the Bus and those from the bus strip to the switches are in at least 16/0.2mm equipment wire or a larger wire size where two motors are to operate from the one switch. You can do the same out on the layout-in several places if need be and connect each Seep "C" pad to the common connector, linking one connector to the next. So as one wire feeds from the CDU output negative to the first strip then on to the next strip and so on until the last one is reached. Again ensure feed wire from CDU and linking connector is large enough wire size. I would use 24/0.2 minimum and each motors "C" connection to the common connector in 16/0.2mm. BTW the point switches need to be non locking sprung to centre off type. Not the type that can remain in the On position when the switches lever is released. These sprung switches are frequently called (On)-Off-(On) type where the bracketed On can't remain in that position.

Hi Before you start taking the wiring apart, and as you're a DCC user and have by the looks of things Electrofrog points throughout. Plus you also have rail feeds to all rails, you need to ensure you have Insulated Rail Joiners (IRJs) installed in BOTH vee rails leading away from all electrofrog points, not just those points that are opposing. If you have metal joiners on any Vee rail end replace them with Nylon IRJs Place them where I have shown the red line cutting across both rails... (Plus of course anywhere else off the picture).

As suggested by Nigel above. The cause is the short circuit or the power surge at switch On/Off producing a momentary spike on the DCC rails/bus and causing the older and "fragile" decoder to reset to its factory default. Most (if not all?) modern decoders have now overcome this. Fitting a resistor and ceramic capacitor across the DCC bus pair or the rails if no bus is used will help. The components and how to is shown here if its of help? Link to Bus Filter