Brian

In addition to the corrected drawing above. A Servo control board needs just two wires to operate the Servo one way then the other. So one wire will connect to the Cobalt motors common change-over switch contact tab 6 from the Heathcote Servo board and depending on which way the point/motor is to operate the servo the other wire will be on tab 4 or 5, not both. So in the drawing remove the Brown wire and connect pink wire to either 4 or 5

Aren't we talking about DCC Control systems, not decoders or accessories which seem to have crept in? But no matter, did I not say " That is assuming they are actually assembled or manufactured in the UK," Many items are designed by UK companies, but are then out shopped for manufacturer in the far east or other low cost labour areas! So not really UK made.

Hi The images of the switches on the Express Models web site Link here seems to look like 12 way rotary switches of single pole (SP12W) design. That is it ahs 12 positions unless you already have one that has 16 ways (positions)? Even if so a 12 way would be fine for all aspect types. You just need, as stated, to obtain a 1 pole 12 way switch and a suitable knob and remove the switches locking ring located under the bottom fixing nut. This then allows continuous turning of the switch. Cheap rotary switches can be purchased on eBay of from virtually all electronic retailers such as this example.. Rotary Switch SW077 example link How to wire ... Suggest you may like to come back when you have the switch and details of what number of signal aspects it is to control and whether the signal is wired as Common Anode or Common Cathode configuration? If you're unsure on this, advise us the make and type of signal and we should be able to help.

Isn't this a sign of current times? Imported items no longer able to offer a service or back up! I'm rather surprised that GM haven't been allowed to produce their own PCBs under licence from MRC, especially if MRC are not able to supply components and PCBs etc. I suspect GM and with their large sales base, will sort some of deal out with MRC very quickly. There are very few, If any DCC systems manufactured in the UK (other than ZTC, Hornby and SPROG)? That is assuming they are actually assembled or manufactured in the UK, which is often not the case! So concerns around supply, repair and replacement of parts can quickly become an issue for any electronic items! DC or DCC.

Any Double Pole Double Pole (DPDT) switch will operate the motor. You will also need ideally a 12 volt Regulated DC power supply. For a Cobalt Classic, connect the 12v DC to the top pair of terminals on the switch. Then link top left tab to bottom right tab and top right tab to bottom left tab. Connect the middle tabs to the point motor terminals 1 & 2 on the Cobalt (Or 1 and 8 depending on the motor).

Pleased to read you're progressing. As for Lamp brightness, you can trial a number of resistors in series with each other rather than jumping in and ordering one specific Ohm value then finding out the lamps are still too bright! As you have some 1K resistors, trial two connected together in series - end of one to the end on another the free ends connecting to the copper tape and the lamps wire as for the single resistor i.e. daisy chained together. This will give 2K (2000 Ohm) for two resistors, add a third to the chain and that then makes it 3K (3000 Ohm) and so on until you reached the brightness desired. Then you can order the nearest ohm value resistor available to the combination of series resistors total knowing that the one higher value resistor will then give the level of brightness desired :-)

That power supply produces 8 Amps. That is way above most needs. In fact if your lighting needs more than 2.0Amp its probably too much! With 8 Amps available I would recommend you split the output into around induvial 1.0Amp sections, each protected by a 1.0Amp fuse or a resettable 1.0Amp circuit breaker. Thereby offering 8 x, 1.0Amp protected outputs. If you have a multimeter (and they are essential tool for fault finding and can cost less than £10) disconnect all lamps and then power up the supply. Set the meter to its DC volts range of 20v check that you're getting 12v to 13.8 volts on the copper tapes. Noting which tape has the Positive supply on it from the meter leads and its display. Check volts all the way along the two tapes and everywhere needs to be the same reading. Once the above is proved, then connect one end of a resistor to the now known Positive tape. Onto the other end of the resistor connect one lamps wire. The other wire from the lamp connects to the Negative copper tape. If the lamp illuminates correctly all is good and repeat exactly the same for all other lamps. However, if the first or subsequent lamps fail to light, initially try that failed lamps two wires the other way around on the end of the resistor and negative tape. If then it still fails to light consider it probably dead and replace it for another lamp and then retest. ALWAYS ensure that a resistor is in one lead to the lamp.

Hi If you have lamp 1 working correctly but lamp 2 doesn't work, why not unsolder the wire on the end of resistor for lamp 1 and connect lamp 2 lead to that resistor and of course the other lead of lamp 2 to the negative tape too. Does it light then? If not and with the resistor still connected reverse the lamps 2 two wires and retry. Does it light now? If still no light it may be a defective LED or lamp? If it does light, then rewire it exactly the same way back in place 2. If it now fails either your power supply is inadequate or there is a break in the copper tape somewhere between lamp 1 and lamp 2 position? BTW. I would reduce the resistors lead length by at least 50%-75% each side to prevent accidental cross connection to something else.

I can not agree with these comments! If you cut the two closure rail link wires you should install some other form of frog polarity switching. This should be undertaken BEFORE cutting the two link wires. Pre planning should always be the fore. Never "well perhaps I might" or" I might not". Its I will do it this way... I don't care what S or X says, if the link wires are cut and nothing else is done the rails from the closure rail gaps to the IRJ on the end of of the Vee rails will become electrically dead. Period! Do not try and make matters far worse by saying adding droppers to W & Z will resolve, as this just makes the whole process far worse to understand by the novice and act upon! Why would anyone ask questions if they were unaware of how the frog and switch rail polarity works? What on earth is wrong with the very simple process of cutting the two closure rail link wires and adding frog polarity switching by whatever means is chosen. Gosh if the installer cant decide on how the point is to operate and switch the frog polarity from onset and then to proved frog switching - mechanical by the point motor or point switch or electronic frog juicer on DCC then no pre planning / investigation has been undertaken. Harlequin .. IMO your comments are just making matters far more confusing and complex to everyone who may read this article. Its so simple to do and your and others who you say are better suggestions IMO make more work than is ever needed! Typically and as suggested and what your advocating is adding FIVE dropper wires instead of two plus the frog existing wire! Hmm. I rest my case

Hi, Whatever you do do not cut the closure rails gap underneath the rails linking wires unless you have some form of frog polarity switching in use. Failure to ensure this and you will have a dead section from the gap in the closure rails to the IRJs on the end of the points Vee rails.

Hi DCC Concepts recommend using a dual 12 volt power supply to feed the shunt signals. Regulated 12 DC power supplies can be obtain reasonably priced from around £6 up. Their web site shows the connection needed using their item DCP-SPS12 but it shows the connections for a Analogue ip motor not the Digital ip, but the motors contacts are the same (using 4, 5 & 6 connections) . Link to DCC Concepts LED shunt signal wiring with ip motor The alternative is to use a DPDT switch often called a Change-over switch to feed the shunt and manually switch its aspects or use a relay operated by the ip motors contacts. A relay with DPDT contacts can be used with the relays coil feed from a suitable power supply and via the ip Digitals common and one other contact. e.g. relay only energises when the point and motor are reversed (set to the turnout direction). So the DC supply would feed into contact/connection 6 on the ip motor and leave to feed the relays coil via either 4 or 5 connection depending on which one is made to 6 when the motor/point is reverse. Then the relays contacts are wired so as they reverse polarity when the coil is energised and swap it back when de energised. All the supply power for illuminating the shunt(s) and relay(s) can be from one 12volt DC regulated power supply and a 12 volt relay used. Other voltages can of course also be used but the relays coil voltage would need to match the supply voltage. Whatever supply is chosen YOU MUST fit a series resistor. DCC Concepts recommend 5K (5000 Ohm). Note: By using these contacts for shunt signal operation - with either option, you cannot use frog polarity switching via these contacts.

I placed this on another forum. It shows the very basic idea of a dual DCC Bus...https://postimg.cc/4m2r5CX6

Get a better DCC system? Especially as you seem to be N gauge!

Of course if CV29 read seven then you would reduce that by 1 or if it reads 39 you would make it 38. I didnt make that clear!! Sorry Post corrected. Ray H points the way in a much earlier post here. Of course if the link I provided in my original post to the CV29 calculator is used correctly then no such errors would be made!!

Hi To reverse the direction of travel of a DCC loco, use CV29 and add 1 to whatever is read currently in CV29. e.g. if you read 6 then make CV29 value 7, if it reads 38 make it 39 etc. If it read an odd number - 7 or 39 for example reduce that value by 1 This CV 29 calculator is a useful item to bookmark. CV29 calculator link while its the 2mm scale Association the calculator applies to all scales using standard DCC decoders.

Your twin speaker cable should be ok to use for lighting LEDs. You will need to ensure the positive feed wire is marked throughout - this may be by the insulation colour e.g. red etc or at times by a stripe/line on the one wires insulation. Just ensure you use the same wire throughout for the LED Anode (Positive) feed. Next comes the question of the need normally to add a series resistor. This resistor can be in either the positive feed to the LED or the Negative, it really doesn't matter. But do try and maintain a common standard i.e. all resistors are in the Negative (Cathode) LED lead etc. The only time a series resistor is not used is where the LED is supplied rated at the same as the supply voltage e.g. 12 volt rated LED, here the LED has a factory built in resistor. An additional resistor is then not needed, unless you wish to reduce the brightness of the LED then just add a series resistor of a Ohm value to reduce the light level - say in the 1K to 5K region. Power supply voltage hasn't been mentioned since Suzie suggested a 5v USB supply and the heading suggesting 3 volt. 3v IMO this is too low a voltage. I would use at least as a minimum 5 volts DC and possibly 12 volts DC. Both coming from a totally separate power source that is regulated too. Personally I use 12 volts DC feed from a power supply rated at 1.0Amp to 2.0Amp, There are many of these sold relatively inexpensively, often under the sales heading of "CCTV power supplies". eBay and Amazon have plenty and this is a typical example... 12 volt power supply example Normally all these so called CCTV 12v Power Supplies (PSU) are supplied with a moulded 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC plug. You can either cut off the moulded DC plug and connect the two wires as required or IMO it is far better to leave the plug intact and use a matching female connector, either one of these which allow very easy onward wiring Example connector or a chassis or In line style mating Female 2.1mm socket Note; the link I've placed for the PSU above that the same supplier sells these female connectors too. Series resistor. IMO for ease of use, use one resistor per LED. On a 12 volt power supply I always use at least a 1K0 (1000) OHM 1/4 watt or 1/3 watt type. This runs the LEd at a lower current and typically around 10milliamp (0.01A) per lit LED. They sell for pennies each on eBay etc Resistor example Resistors can be installed either way around as they are not polarity conscious devices. But LEDs are and they MUST be connected correctly to the supply. New LEDs have their longer lead as their positive (Anode) connection. All the links above are examples and there are of course many other suppliers too.

Hi I use the PA2 and find it an excellent piece of DCC kit. There are other DCC systems that work just as well of course. The PA2 will happily operate your layout. The Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog AFAIK only has one set of contacts. Therefore two would be needed and they would have to switch exactly at the same time! IMO a Dual Frog Juicer would be better as its all electronic. Or just use a conventional reverse loop module for electronic switching. However, cheapest of all is to use a DPDT switch fitted and operated by the entrance/exit point, so as when the point moves over to allow an exit the loops rails polarity swaps over! When the point is restored to the opposite position the loops rails revert to the original feeding polarity. Using a DPDT switch can at times cause sound locos to restart their sequence and some locos to stutter, as the contacts break and then make. Hence all electronic methods are far better than anything using change-over contacts

Yes you can do that. If your point motors are solenoids (which I'm assuming they are as you're mentioning 16v AC) then why not add a Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU) to the 16v AC output and allow the CDUs output to feed all the point motors? Then at no time should the GM WM1 become overloaded.

Wouldn't this question be far better posted on the MERG forum? Rather than a third party forum?? Many MERG members will on their forum offer views/comments/reviews!

<Bigger sigh> No its not, because you selectively edited the post and removed that quote. End of comments.... I'll not bother here again!

That's what I said isn't it? Or I thought i implied it? As I stated " Therefore the Auxiliary outputs cannot be used with Common return wiring" They can of course be used in total isolation, but they are not suitable for use with the common return! Which is what the question is about. Also worth remembering is that if these Aux outputs are used separately, they take power from the same supply that's feeding the rails. So it can become very easy to overload one transformer winding without realising it. Hence IMO a totally separate power source is better for each Aux needed. There is no reason where all the power sources are separate not to use common return for all track, all solenoid point motor returns and even all lighting etc it wished. So long as the return wire is of suitable wire size and all supplies connected to the common wire are totally separately feed.

There are two dual secondary wound transformers inside. Each secondary winding feeds its own 'Track' output. So the Track side it is fine for common return. The problem comes when anyone tries to use the Auxiliary outputs (2 x 16v AC and 2 x 12v DC) with common return, as each Aux output is taken from one of the windings that is also used for the tracks. Therefore the Auxiliary outputs cannot be used with Common return wiring. Here for aux power - (Solenoid point motor feeding / CDU input, layout lighting, feeding a non mains powered train controller etc) you need a totally separate power source.

While this topic seems to have drifted well away from the title, I thought I would bring it back! Faversham MRC has announced it has reluctantly had to cancel its 2020 exhibition due to have been held on Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th September 2020. We cannot under current government guidance/regulations host a show that allows for social distancing, food and drink to be consumed in a seated area by our visitors, arrange one way system or keep toilets etc free of possible virus infection. We hope to see all our visitors, exhibitors and traders in September 2021.

That may be the cause? You say it tests fine on a multimeter, but have you checked just how much AC its pushing out on the DC Track terminals? Set meter to read AC volts >20 and connect to track terminals. Turn up controllers speed knob and read any AC volts at full speed setting.

Gaugemaster WM1 will do the job as a stand alone unit. Or an old train controllers 16volt AC output. As too will a spare or new 18 to 20 volt DC ex laptop power supply, are all able to be feed into the CDU input.