Brian

Hi I'm assuming the lamps are 12volt rated as they tested on a PP3 9volt battery OK. You need an On/On switch or lever. SPDT toggle switch, Hornby R046 yellow lever. Peco PL-23 etc At the signal connect together one green and one red wire (doesn't matter which one of the two) and take that to the negative of a 9 to12 volt DC power supply - A DC regulated power supply would be best IMO rather than a train controllers output or 16v AC. To Note, a series resistor if one is used would be in the supply to the switch or alternatively the return wire from the signal. It will get hot and you would need to calculate the actual resistance and wattage needed! Hence my recommendation to use a 9 to 12v regulated Power source and then no series resistance is then needed. The switch or lever will have three connections. The common connection connects to the positive of the supply. The remaining two connections each go to the red and the green wires of the signal. On a toggle switch the common is the middle of the three tabs. On the R044 the common is the lower middle socket and the Peco PL-23 the common is the middle tab. Then when the switch or lever is in one position the red aspect is lit and move the switch or lever to the opposite position the green aspect will be lit.

Possibly one of these?... Kato Convertor

This may help? Link to Diode Matrix Blowing own trumpet now!

Bitsbox have a twin and slightly larger 42/0.2mm wire in stock Link to Bitbox IMO an excellent price, but note its copper clad Aluminium conductors. Though Ive never had issue with this sort of wire! Brimal have 32/0.2 wire in stock Brimal link CPC have 32/0.2mm reals in stock CPC 32/0.2mm Can't say its next day delivery though!

It is a solid conductor of 2.5mm2 in size. Ok to use on a fixed never to be moved layout, but it is not suitable for portable layouts, as it can fracture eventually with flexing movement.

Radiated interference from sparking motors or wheels on rails etc. induced into Servo control lines and possibly the bus pair too. Upgrading the two power feed wires from each supply can only be a good thing. You can "Tap off" these heavier wires near to each module and use a smaller wire size to power a module if that helps. BTW does Megapoints require that the 0 volts (negative) of the 12v supplies (in your case two of them) are connected together? Making a common to all modules O volt connection, as this is the case with the similar MERG modules!

75 servos is a lot! Is your power supply and power supply cabling up to the job? I would be looking at something around a minimum of 5.0Amp and probably greater with 32/0.2mm cabling as a minimum.

Thanks for the replies so far. I have used printed aluminium and my existing panel has that as the top. (Dibond or its equivalent) Panel I was asking if anyone has used printed self adhesive vinyl which is considerably cheaper as I'm making two panels. 😉

Hi I'm about to build two new control panels - mimic panels with switches and LEDs etc mounted into the panel top. The panel will be either thin Aluminium or MDF. Currently looking at possibly using printed vinyl self-adhesive sheets - A3 or larger for the actual track plan. Has anyone used these with success? If so, do they drill ok and not tear under the drill bit? Any recommendations for printing companies? Previously, I have used printed aluminium (bit expensive!) or professionally printed card sheets under Perspex, but these tend to tear the card a little when drilling holes.

You have to use the correct type of Bi Coloured LEDs. The two-lead type won't work as these require their feed polarity to be reversed. The three-lead style of Bi coloured LEDs come in two different types. Common Anode or Common Cathode. You should be using Common Anode. - The LED has three leads and the middle lead should be longer than the outer two. This middle lead connects to the C terminal of the LED outputs three terminals. The two remaining wires from the two outer leads connect to L & R terminals of the same group. You MUST use a series resistor with any LED feed. Easiest is to fit one resistor into "C" and the wire from the middle Anode lead of the LED connects to the other end of this resistor. But some users find the brightness of each colour needs reducing (or increasing) individually according to the colour lit, so then use two resistors, connecting them onto the L & R terminals and the wires to the LED outer Cathode leads are on the other end of the resistors. The "C" terminal now has no resistor fitted and is directly wired to the middle lead of the LED. Resistors can be 0.25 (1/4) watt or higher wattage and in the Ohm range 560R to 5000 (5K) or even higher if wished. Its really trailing various ohm value resistors until the correct light level is reached. I would suggest a starting place is 1K (1000) Ohm?

IMO its very poor advice to remove a series resistor on any voltage! The resistor is there to reduce current to the LED. I would run the lamps off of a 9 volt PP3 battery supply with the series resistor supplied in circuit. Ensure the LED lamp is connected the correct way around. If you really want to use a lower voltage, then I personally would not go below 4.5volts (e.g. 3 x 1.5v AA cells in series) then use a 100R series resistor.

The list linked to in some places is vastly wrong and offers very inaccurate information shown. Typical examples are the MRC/Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance Square, list shows... Functions 0 to 9. In fact it has 0 to 28! Amp 5 in fact it offers as sold 3.5Amps to track. The NCE PowerCab has incorrect / misleading information too. So I would treat the comparisons with great scepticism! 🥴 Things to consider for a short list are IMO 1) Budget. 2) Hand Held or Desk console. Possible extra is PC/tablet interface. 3) Power to track (without having to purchase a booster). 4) Repairs.

After an enforced two year break, Faversham Model Railway Club are pleased to announce that their annual two day exhibition is to return. The club is hosing a two day exhibition on Saturday 10th and Sunday 11th September 2022 at The Abbey School. London Road. Faversham. Kent ME13 8RZ. Opening times are Saturday 10:00 to 16:30 and Sunday 10:00 to 16:00. Admission is cash only and Adult is £6 and Children £3. Under 5s are free. We have 18 layouts and full Trade support. Plus an additional new third exhibition room. Free On Site Car parking and refreshments available all day. Ten minute walk from Faversham railway station. Up to date information can be viewed here Link to FMRC 2022 Expo We look forward to returning to the exhibition circuit and seeing our former friends and of course all new visitors again.

Do you have DCC Accessory Decoders for point motor operation everywhere? If so, what make and type? If you DO NOT have accessory decoders for the point motor operation, then STOP and please Read my post above!

Hi So as its clear... There are generally two distinct methods of operating point motors. A) Use the DCC and every point motor is operated via an Accessory decoder (standalone accessory decoders frequently can have 1 or up to around 8 outputs). They act as an interface between the DCC system and the solenoid point motor. Converting the DCC command for a point to move to a pulse output that is sent to the solenoid motors coil. Note where solenoid motors are used the accessory decoder must have a pulsed output. If standalone decoders are not used then the point motor must have an accessory decoder built in like the Gaugemaster PM10D ("D" denotes it has a decoder built in). Some point accessory decoders also allow push button or sprung to centre Off toggle switch operation too from a control panel, so then their operation can be dual - DCC from the throttle or by the PB/Switch on a panel etc. B) Use a totally separate power supply, as suggest 16v AC is frequently used, a CDU is directly feed from this power supply and its output Positive goes to all the operating switches/Push Buttons/Probe of Stud & Probe etc. Usually only one CDU is needed for the layout. If using switches or Push Buttons they MUST BE of the type that cannot remain locked in the On position. They have to be a Momentary connection that only makes when the lever is moved or the button is pressed. Toggle switches are of the (On)-Off-(On) type where the bracketed On cannot remain on when the switches lever is released - It springs back to the centre Off position. The switches have a middle wiring tab which is feed from the CDU Positive output, linking switch to switch middle tabs. Then each end of the switch has a wiring tab that runs out to the appropriate point motors left and right operation wires. The solenoid point motors wiring will also have a third return wire and this connects onto a motor common return wire that runs around under the layout and all point motor returns are connected onto this common wire that then runs back to the CDU output Negative. There is no "Bus wires" or other feeds where a separate power supply and CDU are used. But do ensure all wiring is of a suitable wire size. Here I recommend the smallest size to consider is 16/0.2mm equipment wire. Much of what has been stated is shown on my web site, for DC (Analogue) operation here... Link to click then scroll down a little and for DCC operation here ...DCC link click here 😊

GX16 and GX20 Aviation connectors 😀 Most are 4 way board to board and board to panel. I use CBus for layout accessory control and DCC for the trains.

Reading the post, I believe the OP is talking about a DC controller to layout connection, not a control panel?

Lots of Hand Held DC controllers use a 4 or 5 pin DIN plug and chassis socket. But watch their current rating! Some like the larger XLR Neutrik connectors 4 pin type. Using Phone plugs can be done, but I would use two of differing colours (plug and socket) to help stop accidental reversal of connections. 4mm Banana plugs can be used with matching sockets, but again use coloured ones to stop accidental cross connections occurring. I'm using Aviation plugs and sockets now, and these come in 2 to 15 way connections. Typical example Link to click

How about a 3 position Guittar switch? - Offers On/On/On switching. Or a three position rotary switch with a few steering diodes perhaps?

Its sold as a Handheld DC controller. See this video around 0.40 seconds on Video link But I guess it could be removed from its case and panel mounted?

If I read what you're saying correctly, then... The connection to the second shunt signals DPDT switch is from the power supply, not the first shunt signals leads! i.e. each switch has a power supply, which can be linked switch to switch. Dont forget these will also need series resistors to prevent the LEDs from receiving over voltage and limit the current.

The Moulex handheld controller uses an input of 15/16v AC You could use the 16v AC outlet of the Duette or a totally separate 15/16v AC power source such as the Gaugemaster GMC-WM1 The controller is missing the four-core cable that takes the AC into the controller and the Track DC back out. Unfortunately, without seeing the printed circuit board copper tracks I can't say which pair of terminals is the Input and which is the Output to the rails. Guessing I would say the two left hand terminals are the Input AC and the two right hand ones (white painted) are the DC Track Output But that's best guessing!😐

One of these in 1.0 or the 5.0 Amp range would be ok for direct current reading Amp Meter link Can't so far find a centre zero voltmeter, but will continue searching!

Both the Tortoise and the Smail have two independent sets of changeover contacts, these are on terminals 2, 3 & 4 and the other set on 5, 6 & 7. Terminals 4 and 5 are the moving contact per switch. 4 makes to either 2 or 3 depending on point position, while 5 makes to either 6 or 7. Connect the points frog wire to 4 (or 5) and then two wires from the DCC bus pair or the rails leading into the points single end go on terminals 2 & 3 with 4, or 6 & 7 with 5. If you get a short occur, then swap around the two DCC wires on 2 & 3 (or 6 & 7) . DCC connects to the Smail terminals 1 and 8 either way around. You can add two momentary press to make push buttons or a sprung to centre Off switch onto the Snails special connections C1, C2 and Gnd. this then allow manual operation of the motor over and back. Information re the Smail is here... Link to Smail manual