Brian

So according to the ESU Loksound 3.5 manual Top speed is set by CV 5 and is in the range 0 to 64, 64 being the fastest Its set to 64 by default at new. What CV is used for the headcode box? Is it the main head light? If so, then its dimmed via CV113 and setting the value between 0 and 15 with 15 being the brightest and 0 being dark/ Off

Old redundent ear speakers are a source. As suggested twin low power speaker cable is another option. However, when I instal LED lights into buildings etc I tend to use a Red and Black single wire, each glued to the inside front corner of the building and they are totally unnoticable. Kynar wire (Example Link to wire } is ideal for this, though its a solid strand rather then flexable wire. But this isn't a problem as the buildings don't move. 😀

Note; it says DC Voltmeter and without any other reference the text also suggests it also applies to a digital multimeter set to its DC voltage range. You should measure DCC Rail Volts with a meter set onto its AC voltage range of at least 20v or higher. Measure volts at the inital place the Track output connects onto and then that reading should be roughly the same everywhere else around the layout.

Most mulitimeters, regardless of cost, will on their AC Volts range read a reasonable DCC track voltage, but not necessarily the accurate voltage. Reading Half wave - Never heard of this and I would dismiss that one. Disconnect all wires on the Green plug and I would expect on the two left hand "Main Track" terminals of the GM Prodigy Express to read an AC voltage of around 11 to 14 volts when the PE is in its normal mode. On the two right hand "Program" terminals I would expect to see very little voltage, if any, when the PE is in normal control mode! What DC voltage is read on the plug coming from the power supply? - unplugged from the PE. Here I would expect to see around 15 volts DC. Positive on the inner tube and negative on the outer barrel. Edit: Typo corrected.

Traction tyres are the usual thing to perish and then slip. But as it’s a tender drive loco. it is also worth looking at the small drive cog on the motor shaft. This can become slightly loose and slip, especially if it’s the grey coloured one (also at times causing a screeching noise too!). Choice here is replace the cog with a new brass one which is a tighter fit onto the shaft or carefully use some Super glue to lock the old grey cog onto the shaft, but great care is needed to ensure the shaft and inside surface of the cog is oil and grease free and only apply a tiny spot of glue to the inside of the cog, then push it onto the shaft but do not allow it to go on so far as to touch the actual motor bearing leave for at least an hour or longer before testing the motor. A new brass cog is normally available from Peters Spares or Lendons of Cardiff.

That could also be part or all of the problem? Cold and damp air can play havac with electronoics designed to be used in a house etc where its usually dry and warmer. Bring the PE indoors, leave it at least over night (or longer ideally) to dry and warm up and then test track output volts with your meter on AC. Note the power supply will provide a DC voltage to the PE If it shows around 15volts DC but their is still no DCC AC voltage on the Track terminals contact Gaugemaster.

The two images posted by the OP show a Peco Electrofrog 3 way point. 😀

If you can't afford a Scroll saw or don't have room for one, then a Jewellers Piercing saw works just as well. 😄 Used of course off the layout Example of a saw

Yes that is correct its MERG kit SD2A 236. My error!

Hi The MERG SD2 signal driver kit is currently only available as a Surface Mounted Device component kit (SMD). The through the hole kit is no longer available. So soldering SMD components to the pads on the PCB is a lot more intensive than soldering TTH components! It does allow each colour light signal to "Talk" to the previous signal (Signal in the rear). It can also be operated by a train detection system of choice, often a Infra Red detector is used on DC operated layouts. If you're not too keen on SMD soldering, then there are ready made boards available Here is one example (there are others of course) Blocksignalling link

Your points are being operated via a CDU and momentary non locking toggle switches (On)-Off-(On) type. No DCC accessory decoder is being used. Initially, I would check that all point operating toggle switches have returned to their centre Off position. Work each switch in turn to check they are all in their Off position. If the CDU has a LED charge light is that illuminated? If no light then you really need a multimeter to test with. A cheap meter can cost less than £15and do all things you will need it for. You test for power arriving at the CDU (Usually 16volts AC) and it is able to provide a DC output often around 19 to 24 volts DC. If that all test correct connect one meter lead to the common return from the motors and the other to check CDU output positive is arriving on the middle tabs of all switches. Report back as to what has been found.

Bit cheeky posting this, but if anyone used model railway forum.co.uk it has had its domain name changed to .com Replace .co.uk with .com and use your existing user name and password to log in.

Of interest.. Does DC do the same? i.e. Left hand terminal to negative while applying a positive to one of the other two causes the motor to move over and then applying a positive to the other makes the motor move back again?

As its an electric motor (not a solenoid) it will need the polarity reversing to make it move back to the original position. A 12V DC regulated power supply and a DPDT switch will do the job! 😀

From memory this model is a split chassis version. So conversion is harder but not impossible with care. If its not a split chassis then ignore the following conversion details. The main thing with any older loco is to ensure it runs faultlessly on DC power before considering a conversion. It must not fail to pull away, run erratically or be generally a poor runner. Split chassis locos don't have the best axle bearings and many are worn due to there age So conversion may be a waste of time and money. Never convert a poor runner as it will become far worse on DCC! To convert a split chassis you will need to part the two chassis halves and remove the connection from each chassis half to the motor. You may have to add insulating tape in the contact area to ensure 100% isolation. Once the motor connections are isolated, solder a fine flexible wire to each motor terminal and ideally cover the whole connection with heat shrink tubing. The end of these two wire connect to the decoders Orange and Grey wires. You now need to connect two wires or the decoders red and black wires to each chassis half. You can carefully use the bolts that hold the two halves together but ideally IMO its better to drill and tap a small hole in each half and fit a small bolt in each (2mm?) Fit the red and black wires under these bolt heads. Your choice of decoder is quite important and for an older loco I would use a Zimo or ESU You final problem is where to fit the decoder and speaker if sound is to be installed. In the tender would be a good choice but that means four flexible wires loco to tender. This may give you some idea on conversion....Link to click who also offer conversion. Personally, I would not bother to undertake a conversion of such an old loco. Split chassis (and even Tender drive) locos are old and can cause real problems. If you really want it converted and don't fancy undertaking the task there are one or two retailers who do undertake commissions, Edit to correct typos!

You need some form of On-On switch or lever (lever is the Hornby R046 Yellow lever or the Peco PL23). A SPDT toggle switch will also provide On-On feeding. I would recommend using a 12 volt DC regulated power supply to feed the signal. Take the positive 12v to the lever or switches common wiring connection (centre on a toggle switch). Then two wires from the other two switch connections go to the signals red and green wires. Take the signals resistor fitted black wire to the 12v negative. Then moving the lever from one position to the other causes the aspect to change. Edit to add Wiring drawing

I have found Britsbox excellent suppliers of toggle switches and some connectors etc. For across baseboard connectors I now use Aviation connectors, especially in GX16 or the larger GX20 versions. Examples.. Aviation Connectors example Edit...Typo corrected.

Hi Dave P.M sent Brian

Just to be 100% clear ... 1) On the PA you select Accessory button then enter the required accessory number, say 104, then press the Enter key. Then you select 1 or 2 depending on which way the servo is to move. Is that correct or do you do something else?

How strange? I've reinserted the URL again and it seems to work correctly. Thanks for the heads up. 😀

The club is hosting its annual two-day exhibition on Saturday 9th and Sunday 10th September 2023 at:- The Abbey School. London Road. Faversham. Kent ME13 8RZ. Opening times are Saturday 10:00 to 16:30 and Sunday 10:00 to 16:00. Admission is cash only - Adult admission is £6 and Children £3. Under 5s are free. We have 18 layouts and 13 Trade support stands. All spread over three halls. Free On-Site Car parking. Hot or cold drinks and light refreshments are available on both days. Ten-minute walk from Faversham railway station. Up to date information can be viewed here https://www.favershammrc.org.uk/2023.html

There is a item somewhere (sorry I cant locate it!) that says linking out the two resistors with a pair of wire links allows the GM500 and GM500D to work with a power hungery point motor, which the PM1,2&4 range are noted for, this should overcome your problem. Edit=Typo corrected

The answer is - anywhere along the points outer stock rails. They are all one length of rail.😀 Don't forget to trim off the sleeper ends of the straight tracks adjoining the points to allow sleepers to fit in nicely with the points sleepers.

As suggested check for a metal "Pip" behind the left-hand brush strips wiring tag. Also ensure that tag cannot touch the metal of the Ringfield motor. Add sleeving over the wire and the tab as necessary. While you have insulated the screw head with the plastic, is the screw thread able to touch the left-hand brush strip still? If so, this will cause a short and probably kill the decoder if not removed. Use a small piece of insulation or Heat shrink tubing over the top portion of the screw so as it isolates the screw from the metal brush strip. ALWAYs test the left-hand brush strip to all wheels and the metal of the motor BEFORE connecting a decoder. Any connection noted while the testing MUST BE REMOVED before connecting the decoder. Use a Multimeter set onto its Ohms range or its Buzzer function. Alternatively, use a battery powered buzzer and two test leads so as when the two leads are touched together the buzzer sounds, or use a lamp and battery and two test leads. The lamp lights when a conenction is present. In all cases the Meter should read almost zero the Buzzer not sound or the lamp should not light. Testing one lead on the left strip and the other lead to all wheels and metal of the motor.