Barclay

The newer Markits wheels are so much better than the old Romfords, and I hope the proprietor gets well soon, and is able to start production again. A few years ago I bought an old white metal kit that came with Romfords, but one of them turned out not to match the others, so I bought a replacement from Markits. In the event, it, too, was incompatible, but in a good way, because they have improved so much in the intervening years. I ended up going with Gibson, because I do think they look better, and of course they are miles cheaper, but the photo I took at the time shows up the differences, especially in flange depth - Left to Right: Romford; Markits; Gibson.

Oh, Sir - wash your mouth out !!!

I'm glad you didn't mention that before, I might have felt obliged to do something about it, and that would have been a right pain!

I tried it on part of a matchbox model and while it did look as if it had 'stuck' there was no strength in the bond.

Seeing your motor and gearbox nestling nicely within the tanks reminded me of another good way of concealing the motor in a saddle tank or pannier tank - make the entire tank assembly detachable - thread it over the motor then plug it onto the front of the cab and secure with a bolt under the smokebox.

Etched for me every time - you can always add lead weights, and nothing looks more like sheet metal than sheet metal. I say every time, but can't seem to leave old white metal kits alone. However they always seem to cause more grief than etched ones.

The re-railing beams were delicate etches but went together fine. Cab steps went on too but I couldn't seem to make one of them look decent so it's back off at the moment pending possible renewal. Apart from that nothing to report, except that we'll have the EM Gauge Society stand at Alexandra Palace again this year and I'll be there on the Saturday with the Ruston if anyone wants a closer look (at how not to do it!).

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Hi a dodge I frequently employ is to ditch the boiler supplied and attach a brass boiler to the chassis, it makes the motor invisible when the body is fitted.

I think the old GEM kit is still available from Branchlines as a complete kit with etched chassis and body detailing pack, plus Markits wheels. I do have one in the stash.

I'm still at that stage after 25 years! Looking fantastic, especially that last pic.

Got the Railtec number plates on now, and they look very good, but I failed to realise how bright the 'brass' is in comparison with the real stuff, so I didn't weather them before putting them on. I now have to try to do this without messing up the paint. Numbers done, but not the edge, that's for a steady hand day !

This week the bonnet has been lengthened at the back with fret waste. The assembly hasn't been attached yet so if the primer coat shows a need for filler this can be dealt with. It is also now full of lead, apart from where the motor and gearbox intrude. All up weight at this stage is 76g and it won't get a lot heavier as there is nowhere left to put it - not at the front end anyway. Putting weight in the cab achieves nothing unfortunately. This means the loco can now handle a couple of wagons happily, and while that's not very good, I am very pleased with it, it is extremely slow, smooth, and controllable, which is quite important for a loco that could only manage 9mph! That hint of rock in the back axle also keeps the pickups working, and it is proving a reliable runner. Buffers and couplings have now been fitted though I can't see any way of making the buffers operable. The cab roof isn't yet fixed in place, and won't be until after painting, but it has been drilled for the exhaust, which is the slimmest brass tube I could find, turned down as far as I dared. Nearly ready for a good clean up now, if I can stop playing with it for long enough...

The way I see it the jigs are probably more use when building a rigid chassis, because it has to be absolutely true. A compensated loco doesn't of course which sounds awful I know and you naturally do your best, but I've never felt the need for more than the pointy LRM jig axles. @Clive Mortimore, I remember Karlgarin Models with great fondness - Richard was always so helpful to this know-nothing teenager! (Still know nothing, but not a teenager any more...)

Once when working on a second hand loco a friend had bought, I managed to shear off a Romford crankpin. Not having any spares, I ground it flat with the face of the wheel, drilled right through the middle of the stump, and installed a Gibson 'pin from the back. How I got away with that I can't imagine but I wouldn't have the temerity to try it again (quit while you're ahead!)

Really good value too, given that it has barely gone up in price over the course of nearly 200 MRJ's !

That definitely would have been the sensible option!

I've been looking at this thing this morning, whilst working (honestly!), and I have started to develop doubts about the length of the bonnet. It's the proportion of it compared to the cab that looked slightly out, a little short. Measurement suggested the cab is 91% of the length of the bonnet, whereas the drawing in @Ruston's book suggests it should be about 85%. But where is the problem? The drawing also suggests that the front of the radiator should be pretty much flush with the front edge of the frames, and the kit is not so. So - moving the bonnet forward to the desired position gives a gap at the rear of about 1 - 1.5mm. This can be filled, but before I do it, do these thoughts seem reasonable? On a more positive note, more room for lead! Photo also shows cab beading now in place. Not the etches supplied but 0.33mm brass wire.

Nearly a year ago, the time has flown. Geoff was a stalwart of our Essex area group of the EM Gauge Society, and, as described above, a lovely man, his passing came as a real shock. Tower Pier survives in the hands of one of his operating team.

Absolutely - I'm not questioning the logic, just saddened by its passing!

Because for some of us, it has been a part of our lives for years - I always looked out for it every time I went through Shenfield. Even non-enthusiasts are aware of it, because it was right next to a busy platform with thousands of commuters passing it daily. And, with a few preserved lines in the County, there was always the hope that it would one day be saved. Some of us enthusiasts develop quite romantic attachments to old railway equipment, for some reason...

With a borrow of my friend Chris' 3/32" reamer I was able to get the chassis assembled, and all pretty straightforward, though as you can see, when adding the 603 to secure the gearwheel I forgot to make sure the gearbox was central - luckily it still just fits. The wheels each had 4 holes drilled in them before assembly - these Sharmans are very nice and fine. They were always a touch finer than Gibson but these look more like P4 - perhaps they are? It seems to work anyway. Since the photo was taken pickups have been added and the loco has now moved on the layout under its own power. Some weight has been added in the form of lead sheet, and it is very clear that any weight rear of the back axle is counter-productive to traction. The jury is out on whether the loco will be able to perform any useful work when it is finished! I mean it ran superbly with a brass EM back to back gauge perched on top of the bonnet but it did spoil the appearance somewhat!

Agreed - the Ambis chassis is in a different league to the K's one. I'm pretty sure the K's wheels are too big as well. I attach a couple of pictures to show the Ambis chassis being shoehorned into the K's body, and the final result, which I was pleased with, it took a bit of work! Wheels are Gibson, as suggested by @Steamport Southport.

And why I think the HO scale 4F had a reversing rod on both sides!

Is IPA available off the shelf in the UK in the same way as it seems to be in the US and Canada?