Kaput

Can I remove this cap from a decoder fitted Dapol Q1 and is there any actual benefit?

The standard and the N were both already loco drive so retooling for Next18 and speaker only needed changes to the tender. Black 5 would be an entire retool, about the only thing they could reuse would the tender from the new 8F. I'm a bit surprised at them doing another run of the 90's in the same liveries already when so many retailers are doing heavy discounts on the first batch. Even more odd when you realise they've never done a second run of the new Castle, C Class or 8F.

The only decoders I even know of that have full power for any functions over 4 is the MKL versions of ESU ones and the Zimo ones that can be swapped between each type. With the prices of the Zimo MN decoders putting one of them in an unpowered coach wasn't high on my list of desires, in the good old days when it was easy to pick up a £20 Zimo for any socket type it was a no brainer.

The dash lights are on AUX3 (front) and AUX4 (rear). Changing the brightness is done by setting CV31 to 16, CV32 to 0 and CV294 to the value you want for brightness (for the front). Range is 0-31. Repeat but replace CV294 with CV302 for the rear. Make sure you set CV31 and 32 correctly before changing 294 or 302 or it will probably mess something up.

Had a play about with the Class 37 one (debating putting it in my Accurscale 37) since I have a random spare Loksound. Bit of a pain to get all the function mapping fixed so it can handle the amount of light functions the Accurascale 37 has but on the decoder tester it sounded quite good. Having 3 separate functions to handle manual notching seems a bit of a step backwards from having drivehold/drivelock though.

Maybe there would be less confusion if you can advise of which make/model decoders you have tested as the current information provided pretty much means something as common as a standard LokPilot 5 won't actually do all the functions. On a sidenote: this is why 21pin decoders kinda suck and manufacturers should swap to Plux22 or something ASAP. Too many "standards" of 21pin decoder.

I assume when you say 6 function its the "standard" 4 full power and 2 logic level as usually found on ESU decoders and not the much rarer 6 full power functions and therefore one of those MKL versions of the decoders required?

It will depend a lot on what decoder you are using. The Next18 specification is supposed to define that stay alive connections are made on the PCB side and not on the decoder so the factory sound Fairlies which have Zimo MX decoders don't really have any provision for stay alive without soldering to the socket. New Zimo MS decoders and all ESU Loksounds have solder pads on the decoder for stay alive so its just a case of where to put the actual caps.

Late last year I sold all my N gauge collection to focus on OO. I've pretty much regretted it ever since and its mainly because lots of the stuff just isn't obtainable anymore without getting lucky on eBay. So my advice is think very very carefully about the selling up your current collection part of changing scale.

IIRC the cab interiors just unclip once you break the glue.

I have an NCE PowerCab as my DCC controller and while its generally fine it has (to me) a bit of a major annoyance. Basically it sometimes activates a random function instead of the one for the button I'm pressing, as example on my factory sound Class 47 I activated F21 to turn off the no. 2 end lights but the Powercab decided to activate F19 and mute the sound instead. Also the EXPN button thats supposed to show what functions are active seems to be amazingly random and claims I've activated functions I haven't touched. It seems most noticable at its weirdness when switching back to a loco with the recall button, fairly common one is if the loco (like the Class 68) has F19 enabled for only having lights at one end enabled and I turn off F19 to switch to F0 for light engine it acts like F19 wasn't actually enabled even though the lights were on. I've tried the disassembling and cleaning the contacts as suggested on the NCE site but hasn't helped. There is a function refresh option on the Powercab but I honestly can't seem to find a clear answer on what that actually does and if it sound be on or off. Anyone any ideas or had similar issues? Wondering if the cab is faulty or if its just a quirk of it.

Title might not be greatest description but hopefully this makes sense: I have a couple of diesel locos with Legomanbiffo sound on V5 decoders. The seem to run at a reasonably high speed while the engine sound is still pretty much at idle. To use the Class 68 as an example its currently trundling around my layout on speed step 40 (of 128) and is going at reasonable speed for my tastes but the engine is on idle unless I crank the speed steps up and without using drivehold that is pretty much like engaging warp drive in terms of speed. Is there any CV's I can tinker with to make it throttle up more at lower speed steps or whats the best option out of CV5 and CV53 to get the top speed tamed without messing up the notching up sounds?

37402 turned up today. In typical fashion with my luck a wiper was loose, not sure if I have the dexterity to reattach it but we'll see.

Mine has a Zimo MX616F, fits fine.

Balance paid, wonder what'll turn up first. Caroline or the Accurascale 37 to haul/push it.

Zimo version of a Lokprogrammer (basically).

Shiny new Pendolino picked up today. Box seems chunkier than the first run and the manual mentions coreless motors, didn't think the Pendo used coreless motors unless new ones have different motors from original run. Alas can't run it till next week when I'm home ☹

Checked the basics that the decoder isn't slightly loose or the slide in tray hasn't been fully pushed back in? I would question Dapol's sanity if they didn't at least do a basic "does it work" test after fitting the decoders.....

The Lokprogammer is handy but I'd recommend getting some sort of generic computer connection (like a Sprog) to use with JMRI to deal with the general programming of CV's first. Its so much easier to deal with function mapping via PC interface than trying to individually program CV's via your controller. If you do find yourself wanting to reblow sound files or make your own then look at a lokprogrammer further down the line. The Zimo MXULF-A is honestly a bit useless unless you want to reblow sound decoders or update firmware, it doesn't provide any real advantages for programming CV's.

The Avanti 11 car and Virgin Pride versions aren't done yet as posted on Revolution's website.

Don't suppose theres any word on when retailers are likely to get theirs? Kinda hoping I might be able to snag one somewhere on my travels next week 🙂

Where did you get the idea it was a sound decoder? Its a bog standard 6 pin decoder and not even a very good one at that.

Hasn't been mentioned and unfortunately Rapido's track record of including suitable solder pads for stay alive on their Next18 fitted models suggests it won't be a simple addition. Thankfully more decoders now have the ability to directly connect to stay alives instead of sticking strictly to the Next18 spec and requiring the connections to be made on the PCB side.

If its a V5 DCC (the US version and commonly used in factory installs) then CV5 and 6 should work as normal for a 3 point speed curve. If its a normal V5 (most likely if its a 3rd parties sound) then 3 point speed curves aren't available and you'll need use a complex speed curve.

Could always get a 21pin to 8pin adapter simply to stick a Hornby decoder in and prove to them it still kills their own decoders. But as mentioned above, most likely a tiny whisker of solder is bridging the pickup and motor pins on the socket.