grahame

I've glued the cab handrails back on (well, the three sets I took off as I overlooked one set and they remained on during the paint and transfer process - ooops) and basically I think all the painting is complete and sealed with matt varnish. Just remains to take a deep breath and risk tackling some weathering, or should I, err, ummm...... G.

Looking good - don't forget you'll need double red rectangles showing at the back end rather than white route numbers. G.

Yesterday I received a really nice email from someone about my N'spirations booklet that I'd like to share on my blog; "Just to let you know I think your magazine is an excellent contribution to the hobby and I hope it is to be the first of many. I particularly admire the way you suggest that we all, including beginners, should aim for high standards, without being pedantic about it. The publication presents the information and tips in a refreshingly positive style without specifically advocating the counting of rivets, giving hope and inspiration to those of us with less confidence than those with years of experience. And all this complemented with interesting photographs of a consistently good quality. Keep up the good work!" I've also had a number of other complimentary testimonials which has greatly pleased me. Anyway, today will be a break from modelling to enable me to undertake some cooking - another enjoyable past-time - and a visit to the local. G.

You don't need to file the rail ends to match up the Easitrack 9.42 gauge with Peco points 9mm gauge. You can make the transisition at the end of the length of Easitrack so that the rails match up gauge wise - although they will still be different heights; code 40 to psuedo code 55. I'll add a photo to this thread showing a multi-gauge bit of Easitrack. The 9mm gauge is on the left for the first two sleepers and the 9.42 gauge is for the last two sleepers on the right. The middle two sleepers are the transisition sleepers and have no inner chairs (cosmetic ones could easily be glued in place). Bearing in mind how blown up and times greater than real life the pic is, once ballasted, painted and weathered it should be more than acceptable with no obvious joggle or joint between the two gauges showing. G.

I used Humbrol Maskol painted on the yellow before air-brushing the blue. And I used Phoenix Precision PQ11 low tack masking tape for the grey roof. However, the white with red and grey stripes are a Fox transfer put on over the blue. HTH. G.

Some slow progress on the painting of this loco. White upper bodyside stripe, orange cant rail line, logos, number, lettering, etc., still to be done; Nothing much on the class 50, although that will be done in large loco livery - a lot easier than NSE And a bit more done this afternoon (but still the orange cant line to do, paint the door handles, front grips and hi-intensitry light lens, replace the cab handrails, re-assemble and weather........) G.

The point bases and vee filing jig (one on the left in pic) are available from the 2mmSA shop - you need to be a member to purchase from it. The special N gauge flange-way crossing assembly jig (middle aluminium one in pic) was specially produced. Contact Noel Lever on the Yahoo group as he is collating interest for the next batch; http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ngauge/message/117741 G.

Yes, the plain track is 2mmFS Easitrack built as it's supplied; to 2mmFS 9.42mm gauge - it's simply a matter of sliding the rail in to the pre-moulded chairs on the sleepers base sections (no soldering or gluing required). The points are made using 2mmFS components (pre-milled track base, rail and chairs) but built to 'N' 9mm gauge and N gauge NMRA flange-way clearances (which are a lot finer than Peco points but a little larger than 2mmFS) using a special N crossing jig rather than the 2mm one. Obviously to join the plain track (at 9.42mm) to the points (at 9mm) the rail needs to be slightly flared/tapered. It's hardly noticable because you're only talking about a deflection of less than a quarter of a millimeter for each rail. In fact if you look at the photo you'll notice a small piece of Easitrack plain track base butting up the point at the left end with the rails slightly diverging between it and the point. G.

For my London Bridge project I’m obviously wanting to use the best looking N gauge track possible. And now I think I’ve finally decided on the way to go. For the plain track I’ll be using the 2mmSA Easitrack which is easy and quick to put together and has the benefits of; * Being able to run my N gauge stock on it without any re-wheeling. * Concrete and wooden sleeper and flat-bottom and bull-head rail options available. * Has finer low profile height code 40 rail. * Has more accurate sleeper sizes and sleeper spacing (compared with Peco). * Has a low overall sleeper/base height so minimising ballasting effort (deep filling with Peco is not required). I’m currently experimenting with it on the photo-diorama I’m building (see earlier in my blog for details and pictures). For the points I’m also hoping to use Easitrack but built to N gauge standards. This gives me the following benefits; * All the benefits of the plain track regarding look and scale (sleeper size/spacing/height and rail height). * Pre-milled point bases available in most sizes from the 2mmSA. * Finer flange-ways (than the Peco points) that accept the current N gauge RP25 wheel standards. I’ve attended a workshop run in conjunction with my club, Easitrack and the 2mmSA and have effectively built a point to those standards. Special crossing jigs are available for the N gauge flange-way size and all the other jigs are as per the 2mmFS versions (apart, obviously from 9mm gauge rollers). There is minimal soldering - just a bit to hold the crossing vee and wing rails in place as one assembly - and everything else is glued on with plastic chairs holding the rails. The overall benefits of this for me are that; * I’ll end up with better finer scale looking track that accepts N gauge stock. * There is no need (saved time and cost) to replace all wheel-sets with 2mmFS ones. * I can still use N gauge Peco track and points in the fiddle yard and any hidden tracks. Below is a pic of the jigs and gauges; left to right; vee creation jig, N gauge crossing jig, N roller gauges. And below that is another crossing that I built at the workshop showing the minimal soldering required. The crossing is held down in place on the point base by plastic chairs that slide on to the rails and are glued to the sleepers; See the 7th added comment for infor about the pic below; G.

You could pop the underframe off the body before attacking it with brasso. They're easy enough to get off by sliding a steel edge between and twisting near the plastic 'rivets'. It also makes it easy to upgrade the underframe/sole bar section with an etched Ultima kit. G.

I'm not sure what you mean by a rounded top to the nose. Yep, it certainly doesn't form sharp right angles with the upright front panel. And from what I've determined by close observation the nose ledge top slopes downwards from the centre towards each side at the same angle as the windows droop. I've replicated that on the sheets I added, which where cut to a centre point before gluing on and the entire panel is also slightly formed as a subtle curve around the front. Probably not very obvious in N gauge. G.

While waiting for some transfers for the class 47 (the wrong ones were sent and I've had to return them) I've been playing around with class 50 body I had to try and improve it. One aspect that I considered 'wrong' with the Farish moulding was that the front end was too flat (like it had been slapped in the face) and lacked the slight protruding nose under the front cab windows of a real class 50. So as well as opening out the exhaust outlets and body side windows and cutting out the circular roof grille (hoping to replace it with a better etched one) I also filed off the front end details and added a layer of plasticard to produce the nose bump. I've also started to add some details (such as drilling holes for the light) to see if the nose extensions look any better; G

I'm going to be brave and attempt a first for me; to re-paint a new Bachmann class 47 (one of the blue ones) in to NSE livery. I started by stripping it down of all the glazing and bits and pieces and then attacked the paintwork with Phoenix stripper. I've also plated over the boiler exhaust and added Ratio hi-intensity headlights and then given it a coating of Halfords grey primer. Currently I'm going through my books and the internet to decide on exactly which number to represent. I nearly settled on 47521 as pictured in the 'NSE years' book but then noticed in a pic on a website that it was different at each end; one end had a recessed headcode panel while the other was filled and smooth. G.

Excellent development - literally! G.

An impressive looking rake. G.

One of the projects I’ve been working on for a while now has been a new independent magazine called N’spirations. It‘s a 4O page A5 sized all colour publication exclusively about British 1:148 N gauge. I am pleased and proud to be able to announce it’s launch here on my blog on RMweb. The aim was to produce a one off publication that would help answer the questions people asked about N gauge while viewing my layout at exhibitions. It is also intended to inspire people who expressed interest and encourage them make a start in N gauge railway modelling. The booklet is specifically suitable for those who know little about N gauge or who are beginners in the scale and is a handy reference guide answering commonly posed questions. It includes inspirational photos of quality layouts with supporting articles and advise. I was able to secure some sponsorship from the N Gauge Society (although the publication remains completely independent and mostly self funded) and have now got the magazine completed and printed. Obviously I still need to sell it to help cover the cost of producing and printing it and hopefully recoup some of the money I‘ve invested in the project. As well as selling it at exhibitions I also plan to make it available by mail order and hopefully arrange for some specialist traders to take a small supply that they could sell from their stands/shops Although it was originally intended as a one-off publication, the initial and early reaction from those in the know has been positive, and there is the possibility that if it is a success it may be developed with further issues that will cover a broader range of N gauge modelling subjects and projects. If sales are acceptable and a second issue is forthcoming I’ll update this blog to let people know news about it. However, as this is the first issue and it is not known what the level of sales is likely to be a limited print run has been produced. When they are sold out you will be unlikely to obtain a copy. Therefore, if you would like a copy, it is recommended to place your order as quick as possible. I’ll put details of how to order in the classified ‘for sale’ section of the forum to save falling foul of the moderators or any selling rules. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/11614-nspirations-n-gauge-publication/ G.

Excellent all round work. And N gauge to boot. G.

There's been a little progress on the diorama I'm trying to put together for photographing locos/stock models on (and to try out the Easitrack option). The horrid reddish brown colour is just some acrylic burnt sienna paint that I had spare and added to the water and PVA mix that I painted over the plaster to seal it. Next I need to re-address the ballast and finish it off properly with a neat shoulder, and then consider some ground cover and weathering/painting the trackwork. A fairly rural scene is almost a first for me - any suggestions as to a suitable grass to use bearing in mind the small scale? G.

Apologies for the seeming mania about N gauge busses on my blog but it's just that I reckon I'm going to need a lot for my London Bridge project in the same way that I've already put together a lot of phone boxes and skips. This time it's the Cars Workshop KMB Plaxton Pointer 2 of which I managed to purchase two. I've cut back one to a 'short' single door version and today I've started adding some paint/decal detail. Unfortunately this is hampered by the lack of suitable N gauge/2mm logo decals for London bus operators. For the PP2 I need some Go-ahead London Central galleon logos. It'd be nice if someone did some suitable transfers for companies like London Central, Selkent, Metrobus, Arriva and Travel London - does anyone know if any are available in 2mm scale? Anyway I've got to do the side window inserts and finish it before tackling the 'long' PP2 that has dual doors; PS - now added the windows and roughly finished off. Please bear in mind the tiny size - it's less than two and a half inches long. G.

Progress on this has been slow but I've had a stab at ballasting the Easitrack. It still needs finishing off, especially at the shoulders but I really need to establish the embankments first, and painting to weather it down a bit. However, I'm pleased how it's already starting to look. It should prove a suitable scenic background for photographing stock on. G.

Yesterday I scratchbuilt the angle truncated chimneys that go on the rear engine bustle under the upperdeck overhang of the DMS bus to convert it to a 1980s B20 variant with white upper deck window frames. Now that the TPM etches have arrived - very neat and fine they are too - I can get on and start to fnish some of them off. G.

The recent lot, shown in the pics, was a batch of straight lengths although I have had a coll in the past. The rail is fine, so it's flexible and springy and the coil isn't exactly formed in to a rigid roll that is permanently bent in to circular hoops. G.

My Easitrack order turned up today - plain concrete sleepers with flatbottom rail and wooden sleepers with bullhead rail, it's just a shame that, at the moment, there are no wooden seepers available for the flatbottom rail, but I understand it is planned to be developed. Anyway, I've already tried out assembling both types and have laid some on the little photography diorama board I'm building. G.

Just a quick note to update my blog; modelling is still continuing but on a number of fronts including completing a Fireball XL5 Comet Miniatures vac formed kit and more background research and development for my big London Bridge project. For that I've started putting together a fleet of London Transport busses; And I've been looking at track options for the project. I've just about decided that I'm going to run with the 2mm Easitrack option using the plain track as it is, but building the points to the latest finer NMRA 'N' gauge standards. That is so I can run N gauge stock without having to expensively change the wheels to 2mmFS (and, of course the latest N gauge stuff is very fine and not exactly noticeable or obvious on modern D&E stock) while getting better running over points and having the points look better with narrower flangeways than Peco commercial track. Plus, of couse, I can still use Peco N gauge track for the fiddleyard and in tunnels which will cut down the building effort and time required. The benefits of the Easitrack on the sceneic section will be; - closer scale sleeper size - closer scale sleeper spacing - closer scale rail height - better looking finer scale points - and improved running (wheels not droping/bumping down in to large flangeways, etc) I've already ordered a range of Easitrack to test it out and have signed up for an Easitrack point making seminar (being held at my club). Also I've started making a small diorama for photographing locos and stock (for another publishing project I'm working on) and will use Easitrack on that (as soon as it turns up). I've built the base support structure for it from foam-board; G.

That might be a bit stark and regular. I'd suggest (and use) a hairy brush and acrylic paint. That way you can get a more random, worn and faded look with bit's touched up or missing where flags/edging have been replaced. G.