Tomathee

Evening, I've been given a few old locos, most don't fit with my layout and ideas so are destined for display but one fits perfectly with an idea for a potential expansion so I want to utilise it, so the relative knows it's gone to a good home and to save me a bit in buying one. There are a few issues, as per clues in the title, it's an Ivatt tank (Bachmann, 00) from the times before DCC and with a split chassis. I've found a video guide for doing the install on this specific loco but I can't find the decoder they mentioned, so looking for guidance on that, and whether I should stop at decoder or add a stay alive and sound. So far I've either bought DCC already fitted or with the other more modern locos I have, gone by the socket size when buying decoders, or more videos around with suggestions as they're from the time of youtube etc. I had a look on a few sites and couldn't be sure on what I needed so any specific recommendations would be useful. I didn't particularly want to go down a research rabbit hole this time as it'll most likely be the only time I do something like this. For example from DCC concepts I think a 'Zen Blue+ Decoder: NEM651 6-Pin Direct – 2 Function' is an option (don't think I need the harness version). I was looking at the space inside and thinking about a stay alive too, but that's also something I haven't done before so not sure what I need to consider on the decoder side, on DCC concepts website it sounds like most have a 3 pin connector to go with their stay alives, but I'm not sure how it works with other websites I've been looking at. As part of researching the installation I came across a sound fitted example however using a newer version of the model. It used the bottom of the cab floor as space for the speaker so I'm thinking whether I should go all in at the deep end but again I'm even further from knowing what I need to complete that in terms of speaker and presumably a more advanced (and bigger?) decoder. Any pointers appreciated.

Recap - at the end of the last post I had confirmed the track plan, fixed the boxfile to the board, added a ‘sub-board’ or ‘under-board’ for extra scenic opportunity, added legs to raise it above the height of the desk it partly overhangs. To try and get updates out quicker and catch up with the current state of things I'm going to see how it is by doing the updates by section or task rather than just following time. This post I'll cover wiring, next update a couple of smaller details, then the boxfile build. Being smaller than the other layout I worked on with my son along with lessons learned from that meant this was relatively an easy part though not without issues to overcome. A decision was made at some point in the past that this would be DCC for running locos and DC for point motors. DCC locos to open up using sound and not worrying about isolating sections. DC point motors mainly to follow on from the previous layout in terms of learning and reusing parts when available. There is also a price consideration, with locos the benefits (to me) are clearer, however with point motors less so (again, my opinion). Slow action options are nice but my skills mean there are plenty of other areas to tackle in pushing towards some semblance of realism before point motor action becomes the 'bigger fish'. Also with this layout it would only save a few feet of wire in using DCC for points as well. The bus wire is fairly simple, droppers on each piece of track connected to a main bus back to the NCE panel. One piece of learning was switching from using mains cable to 16/0.2 wire, for the droppers, and perhaps the rest depending on what I have spare over time etc. This was partly because I picked some up at a show but mostly because it is slimmer and more flexible, so requires smaller holes through the board and can curve in less space towards whatever I want to join it to. One new thing was using these (forgotten the name, originally seen on a Chadwick railway video). I used them as ‘mini-hubs’, with a shared connection to the main bus cable. Don’t think it’s better or worse than what I did before and in future I would go with whichever option I had the parts for or found in store first. To complete the circle, I said it last time but still did it this time so next time I'll definitely do it - soldering after the track is laid rather than before, as above. It's easier to solder but more of a pain in drilling the correct place, getting track connected, particularly around points etc. Point motors are all Peco or Gaugemaster underboard motors. On the previous layout I cut holes to mount the motors directly to the points but it leaves such a big hole to fix around that I wanted to try using the extended pins and mount them to the board. I managed to line up and successfully fit 3 of the 4 but the last one I could not get to work properly, whether it was in the alignment, or something being a bit stiff, or the joint for the extender pin having a bit too much give, it just wouldn’t throw reliably so I had to cut a hole in the board and fit in that way. These are powered by a Gaugemaster GMC-WM1 connected to a Rails CDU. Two of the points are electrofrog with the switches also changing the polarity via a GM500 Switch. From memory I think I used these as leftovers from a pack which had some used on the other layout with a side mounted motor. On the others I used the Peco switches which attach to the motor (PL13) and are easier from a wiring point of view. Now because I didn’t commit to board or point mounting the main benefit of the Gaugemaster point motors showed through which is they are friendly to both methods depending which way up they are turned, pins to go into the point or screw holes for the board. This however meant they weren’t compatible with the PL13 (maybe with some dremel work they could be). The other two aren’t on a polarity switch due to unfortunately being settrack points, one to get the sharper curve I needed into a siding and one partly with getting out every extra mm of run around loop length in mind. I made a mini board for the point switches with a basic track plan drawn in MS Word with lines. It’s placed temporarily and will need moving once I expand to the right hand side. I used connector blocks so it should be straight forward if it needs to move substantially further away from where it is now. Finally added a couple of screws for the extension lead to be off the floor/out of the way/have the cables tidied up a bit. In closing I had two comments. First was that it has dawned on me, and should have, that I’ve routed most of the wiring through areas that will be very difficult to access once the scenery part of the ‘lower board’ is done, so I’ve added a job to move it down so that it will remain accessible as far as possible. There’s a couple of bits such as if a connection to a point motor fails then I’m stuffed but that is unavoidable I think. Second is that since this stage I’ve started to add lighting, which could fit within wiring but isn’t complete, so I’ll save it for another day. Next update is a bit of housekeeping chores and musing on future ideas and name change (not sure the the namesake bridge will now make an appearance). In the meantime I’ll hopefully finish the boxfile to do a good section on following.

Just stopping by to add to the positive comments from my purchase a couple of weeks ago. Wanted to try out some lighting on my layout and browsed a few places. Between choice, stock availability and price chose layouts4u and ordered a selection of lights, dimmer, switches, copper tape etc. Ordered at 10:30 on the Sunday, dispatched 12:13 on the Sunday, delivered safely packed at 11:28 on the Tuesday, very impressed given recent grumblings about Royal Mail so credit where due to them as well. The item listings are helpful in guiding what to do re. resistors, which to a complete novice like me was one of the things putting me off exploring this area of building a layout.

Some newsletter specials from Derails - https://derails.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=OO Newsletter At writing - Bachmann 4MT/Jubilee/Compound £133 1 or 2 of each left

Part 2, and I’m now only approximately a year behind what I’ll be writing about (Recap: Part 1 included flashbacks to 2020 for the original idea and 2021 for starting the Scalescenes boxfile which will feed into this layout). What followed was what I find one of the more enjoyable aspects - track planning. This was split between pen and paper, and spare track and the part built boxfile on the board offcut. There was many days and versions of this, each attempting to accommodate the latest specification or feature, along with much trial and error. I took this picture at the very beginning on the first attempt and after more than two weeks of messing around, with a bit of wiggling around, was what I ended up using, make of that what you will. Some further ground rules that arose, in addition to the previous post included - The boxfile to have three sidings, as it will be the centrepiece it needs to be ‘busy’ in the way a station would if that was the main part. Two would have been easier but also less interesting to operate. Two of these sidings should fit 3 wagons, the third siding could but was optional given the space available. One set of warehouse doors from the side of the boxfile to be ‘open’ for the track to continue into an inside section (part of another warehouse to be added most likely), for interest/challenge and also to help meet the previous requirement re. siding length. In the above photo that will be the middle siding that will continue, the rear siding has the nice loading dock from the boxfile to use and would be close to the side wall if it extended, the front siding is already much longer with no real benefit to extending it further, it would also be right at the front of whatever building I include to the left of the boxfile. Outside of the boxfile, a run around loop for 3 wagons, so that they can be propelled into the sidings without trapping the loco. Enough space at the far end for a loco to run around without needing to exit the board. This is because I haven’t so far decided what will be next to it, either a fiddle yard, some form of cassette changer, or further scenic area. The idea being once a train is on the layout it can do any movements needed without needing to access other boards that are so far unbuilt. The plan for working the layout was train enters, loco runs around, shunts wagons into sidings, (time passes), loco assembles train, takes it back out the way it came. There will probably only be one loco in the scenic area at a time, though it may work to have a train enter with a loco in the run around that leaves at some point before any shunting. Some versions of planning showed that placement of the run around loop would mean losing a siding for the loco to move forward so were crossed out. Some showed that whilst on paper it worked, once track was laid out roughly there was not in fact enough space. A few other things took place during this stage. First, there was a decision to be made on which way up the board would sit. This was linked to the scenic options. One option would have the board and track at the front, with a rising hill or other feature behind. The other would have it at the back and a falling hill or other lower feature at the front. I went with option B. Being an industrial focus, at that time the idea was to have a canal running along the lower level into a tunnel at either end. I don’t think there’s room for any interaction between rail and water with loading etc, and may change to something else when I get that far. These pictures show the discounted idea for having the board 'upside down'. This would have allowed a hill or other raised section behind the railway part, it could have been a flat industrial area but I wanted something on a separate level or a hill/drop. As shown there were various problems, in the first one the run around couldn't be made long enough, the second one would have needed reversing off the board to run around and push anything into the top, might have worked but at that point there would be an undetermined wait for the extra board to be prepared. It also made scenery more difficult, as I wanted industrial there wasn't much coming to mind which could be 'elevated' behind the railway, however with the other way around a canal lower down was the going idea. It would also be easier to work on scenery at the front. Secondly, it became apparent that the boxfile couldn’t sit square on the board, there was not enough space for the track to curve from the boxfile towards the other section, and would have caused other issues with curves, clearance and space for pointwork. Working with the boxfile sitting diagonally on the board, there was now a bit of waste board behind the boxfile. Trying to avoid waste and maximise the layout potential this triangle was removed and attached to the front, this allowed one of the sidings a more smooth exit from the boxfile and took away some of the 90 degree angles that were present. If the canal idea survives it will also help keep that from becoming completely square and parallel. The layout used all offcuts and spare pieces, however the luxury I took here was two small Y-points to allow two of the sidings to exit the boxfile and split to the run around loop. Try as I might I couldn’t get it to work with what I had, so had to part with some cash. Some of these I look back now and can't remember why I thought it would work, some I tried to squeeze and extra siding for one wagon or a loco for extra interest which I couldn't make work. Some had the same issue with needing to reverse off the board to access some of the sidings. Some would have had three tracks enter the boxfile through a gap which was not wide enough. Once the layout was settled on, I pinned track down for testing, this was mainly for siding/wagon lengths, the run around loop, and clearance from the edges of the boxfile. At this point I also added some short (approx 6 inch) legs to the board. This was to lift it off the floor a bit, for eventual wiring, and also for the future scenic drop, whether canal or other hill/embankment etc. This was done in conjunction with adding the board that the lower level would be built on. This used a piece of scrap 12mm ply from my sons layout (specifically where the operating well was cut into the centre of his layout, apologies for the Hornby Trakmat). First pic with legs added before the lower board, the two batons on the rear left are for the lid of the boxfile to be attached to. I'll have it permanently built with no need for disassembly and closing the box so this made sense to keep things in place for building around. Also started to add cork and some thin wood to bring the track level with the boxfile. At this point the layout was mobile and moved from being stored on top of a cupboard, to being used/worked on at floor level. This was obviously not ideal and I can’t quite recall why I went that route in the first place rather than straight to what I wanted, the layout more permanently in place. This required some clearing of the spare room and sensitive negotiations on decluttering. Space was secured and further wood work undertaken, another part of layout building I find to enjoy. Again I had to invest in some timber, I probably had enough in scrap but needed continuous lengths for the legs, which stand at 120cm, and slightly lower for supporting the lower scenic board. This height is needed for two reasons. Firstly as the layout sits partly over the end of my desk, I needed it high enough that the space on top of the desk could still be used for storage. Secondly, in the longer term, this or a future layout I would extend further along covering more of the desk, so would be able to reuse these legs and not impact any activities that are done on the desk. I’ve added diagonal bracing between the legs and the boards, and between the legs where possible. I’m also considering adding a shelf or two underneath to use some of the excess room there, once wiring and so forth is done. Final pic is the end track layout, not quite fixed as I need to do some work for the floor of the boxfile in cutting out hardstanding bits. To recap the requirements: Three sidings, two of which should fit 3 wagons, the third siding could but was optional given the space available. This was met, the topmost siding can hold two wagons, the centre one can hold three with the track that extends through the doors I need to cut out, the bottom siding holds four, possibly five wagons. This has thrown up some potential extra operating ideas as it can comfortably fit a small loco and three wagons which I planned to run as per the run around loop. This could allow a train to be formed and held there whilst a second arrives and shunts into the top two sidings, or allow longer trains to be formed if I use it as a 'departure' siding. None of this is based in reality so if there's any comments they'd be welcome. One set of warehouse doors from the side of the boxfile to be ‘open’ for the track to continue into an inside section (part of another warehouse to be added most likely), for interest/challenge and also to help meet the previous requirement re. siding length. This was met, I covered it already above which is a problem with writing this so long after the fact. Outside of the boxfile, a run around loop for 3 wagons, so that they can be propelled into the sidings without trapping the loco. This was met, between space on the pointwork and the two sidings it pulls towards there should always be space for it to drop off and go forward before running around. Enough space at the far end for a loco to run around without needing to exit the board. This was met, obviously for anything bigger than an 0-6-0 it won't work but at the moment that is the sole loco and will be most of the slots when I'm able to expand some kind of fiddle yard. To access the bottom siding the loco will obviously have to reverse a bit once it has run around but there is space for this before the end of the board. According to the photo timestamps we're towards the end of March so far. Next is a bit on the boxfile base, cutting templates for the hardstanding, along with holes for point motors and anything else needed so that I can fix the rest of the track down. Think I'll try a different way of keeping notes/writing these posts that doesn't take so long so that I can catch up a bit quicker. Thanks for reading

Rails bundles, not sure how long they've been around, I only found out via email the other day https://railsofsheffield.com/collections/bundle-pack The Dapol bogie bolsters are tempting me, sure they're normally 25-30 each

Best wishes to the staff at this difficult time. Always enjoyed a quick five minute browse of pre owned, they also seem to be one of the few that state the DCC status of the locos in the listings. I think my last purchase there was a pre owned class 68 that I couldn't get brand new (Avenger for a marvel fan).

By the time I’ve gone from start to finish of writing out these posts in google docs the layout has come on a ways, so I’m playing catch up a bit. I thought I’d break up the posting into chunks to help with writing and sorting out pictures to attach that are scattered in a few places, rather than I hope catch up and do it all in one megapost. Therefore I’ll fill in the background and early planning first, and hope people stay awake to the end. This layout was/is intended to be a side project to the layout I’m building with/for my son in his bedroom. I’m working under the assumption he’ll continue growing out of the hobby completely within the next year in place of video games and eventually other teenage activities. So I wanted something to continue the hobby once he evicts his layout from his bedroom and it has to be dismantled, that I can work on alone and will live in the spare bedroom. In terms of space available, very little is the short answer. The spare room is the smallest in the house and already triples as space for office/gym & storage. It previously included drying airers but I’ve managed to negotiate that out for a marginal space gain. I was also set on 00 gauge from the off, for familiarity and also to share or reuse track, buildings and stock, which determined it would have to be an end to end plan. From here a short tangent appears, where I saw the wrapping paper box layout completed one Christmas by Mr SDJR7F88 and took inspiration that I would do something similar for my spare room project, as it was also temporary and could be put away safely. I acquired the box and cut out a board to size (approx 73x21 cm) from a leftover sheet of loft boarding timber. There progress stopped, a quick check shows his video was released more than 3 years ago (I said this was the background section) and a photo of the cut board was taken in April 2020. So, back in the room and the beginning of this year (2023) and I decide to do something about the spare room, my son’s interest is by now dwindling and his layout seeing little use. After making a bit of space in the corner it becomes apparent I can ‘go bigger’ than the wrapping paper box idea that was on hold. Also staring at me is the offcut from the loft board for that layout, which itself is larger than what was taken from it and therefore became the base for the new idea (122x32 cm). Tangent time again, now off to September 2021 where at some point following the wrapping box idea I had started the Scalescenes boxfile layout as another project with little idea what to do with the finished article. I had gotten as far as beginning some of the structures, however progress had stalled due to needing the track to be planned and laid before continuing. I wanted the boxfile to be a working layout rather than a diorama so needed space outside of it as well for some version of a fiddle yard or run around loop. I briefly looked into combining it with the wrapping paper box but the boxfile was too deep (front to back) to fit inside and so was similarly packed away for future illumination to arrive. So became the next point of order for the new layout, it would incorporate the boxfile, thus giving life to it and giving a starting point for planning the overall layout. This benefitted me in dictating that it would be an industrial setting, thereby removing the procrastination of choosing a setting. As for era, as much as I like modern freight I couldn’t see it working with the space and early plan/play ideas I had, mainly due to the length of locos/wagons. So I decided on BR steam. The layout isn’t recreating anywhere in particular and I’m not sticking to one region, however Eastern with a bit of Midland is probably the direction I’ll go, with a couple of Rule 1 violations thrown in. At the time of writing I haven’t decided on the industry that will be using the boxfile, other than it needs to be worked by short 4 wheel wagons. I’ve reached the end of the first page of my notes so I’ll cut off here, the last part I need to do is decide on a name for the thread title, which I hadn’t done so far. I find this quite difficult normally, and even more so now. I’ve come up with an idea but not sure it will stick, maybe if I put a bit of backstory together for next time. Anyway that’s all for now, I have some more notes written up but will take a bit longer to do the next part as more pictures involved. I was going to include a couple of the boxfile early stages that I started on but I’ll do that as a standalone post sometime, when it’s further along. Therefore just the token image of some timber, original wrapping paper box cut top right, leftover that became the base for the larger layout is the rest of the piece. Next part I'll go through the track planning and woodwork. Thanks for reading

I don't think so, these were most likely used because of habit with previous electrofrogs, either way I'd add these extra droppers as I don't rely on the joiners to conduct anywhere. Re. forward planning, absolutely agree. Forward planning was had in the sense of what was wanted from the layout, laying paper templates, checking clearances and so on. In this case the requirement to run around 3 wagons in the space available for that feature couldn't be met with the extra length needed for streamline points along with the shallower angle of them, needing further space still to clear the parked wagons. It was insulfrogs or go down to two wagons/forgo the loop and have a shuttle with nothing else to do. I think the lesson learned/positive is that I probably won't build a smaller layout than this in future and with a larger one that comes after/in addition to this I shouldn't see the issue again

Thanks, will go ahead and try it, also for the point on the plastic high spot, hadn't heard of or thought of that before but it's definitely possible that could be happening some of the time. I will try a bit of shaving if I'm still having problems after any wiring updates, I foresee my heavy handedness potentially causing more problems than it solves. Those point clips seem to give the same outcome as they suggest making on the underside of the Peco electrofrog points when you cut some existing joints and join the two rails together. I might do it just for overkill alongside the extra droppers that seem like they will help, however with a length of wire as well hidden as possible or even down through the board and back up, £10 for 20 paper clips is on the pricey side for me.

Hi, apologies if this has been covered, I couldn't seem to find it on the search or google. I have a couple of setrack (therefore insulfrog) points on my latest project, forced into using for space reasons. I've started testing and maybe as predicted have the odd issue with stuttering or stalling, even more so as it will be mostly 040 or 060 on the layout. If I've hopefully understood correctly over the years this is due to poor contact between the switch rail and stock rail. On our other layout I've resolved this/never had the issue by having electrofrog points and either used the Peco PL13 accessory switch attached to their underboard point motors or a Gaugemaster GM500 universal relay switch when I've had to use a side mounted motor. Obviously with these there's no metal frog with a wire as with the electrofrogs but I wanted to know if there is a reason I can't add droppers before the insulated frogs, thereby always powering the closure rails and in turn switch blades. If possible I believe this would make a better connection to the switch blades than currently relying on the stock rails, (as far as I can see it would be ill advised to try and wire directly to the switch rails that need as much freedom as possible to move). Apologies for brain dumping, I have google open and a spare point I've been staring at for a while. Using the pic, if I have insulated joiners at green then add droppers in the orange and purple section on the left of the pic. To my knowledge they don't short each other as it's a plastic frog, the factory wiring carries the current through and when the point is switched the blade contact with the stock rail may add an extra point of electrical contact. I guess that's everything that's been running through my mind on this, looking forward for any responses, or if it's a 'no you blind fool you missed this obvious problem it will cause' and I need to either clean and keep clean the track even more so around those areas. At one end I think I could swap a short radius electrofrog point but the other end looks almost impossible with what I have. Thanks

Also my first time at this show and first show this year I think. I normally only get one or two in depending on dates and I don't think I've yet been to the same place twice over the four years since I started. This was I think at the smaller end but I don't see it as a drawback, I've found some of the bigger ones can be 'bloated' with many trades selling all the same new releases. Can't think of a show I've been to set in better surroundings, managed to watch a cricket game whilst eating lunch. I took a load of pictures, some from layouts in the vein I'm working/want to work in for ideas and some of layouts I liked. Filtered down to a few below. It seemed like foreign based layouts were well represented with several covering Europe, US and Japan. Wolfe Lowe - with the wagons filling from the narrow gauge above via the chute Smallwood which was suitably dilapidated One from the headline act - Charnwood Forest Two minute detour to the GCR on the way back to the station Finally, signage prevented the pic being more lined up but couldn't resist a comparison Really good show, layouts I wanted to mention - Illie Town, Linwood Lane, Smallwood, Wolfe Lowe & Charnwood Forest. But all good, not my gauge but the N and even the guy with a T gauge it's something else working at those scales and getting reliable running. Enough trade stalls to part ways with some cash, used wagons from TTC and a couple of bits from Layouts4u, also the Skytrex stand has given me plenty to think about. I got the train up (40 mins vs 1hr+ drive) so I can't comment on parking, journey was fine with a simple enough 20 minute walk. I would echo the previous post about almost missing the other hall. Don't know what signage there was for it from the car park but I only realised I hadn't been in there when I stopped for a flick through the program and thought there was some layouts I had missed. Didn't buy any refreshments but I can vouch for those cakes and pastries from experience. Final comment it was noticeable how many & how involved the yoof were, both in the SV uniform and at a couple of other layouts, great to see!

Is it just the small logo near the window that is different between this and the previous release of Intrepid? Scuse my ignorance

Rails of Sheffield sent a 20% code for their eBay store 'CATCH20' (previous rounds of this were 15% I think). Conditions I saw included minimum £20, expires end of Thursday

Ouch this is tempting, thought I had saved myself some money when the Hattons sold out and all was left either overpriced damaged examples they couldn't shift or the odd time one came up second hand which was higher price than when initially released. With so many videos and pics of them it seems most versions go with most stock (e.g. Db pulling gbrf wagons) so I'm struggling to decide which, along with if I go same company as something I already have or new again. A nice Friday afternoon problem...

Came here seeking an update, it's tempting me as an alternative to a class 158 and saw it again on a email from hattons about pre order but no further info. I'm sure they had a prototype (grey mock up, excuse the technical term) at the mk show in October, is the factory delay situation still that bad or is it Hornby spreading out new releases?

Cheers, I've found something in B&Q to pick up next time I'm passing, £8 something for 10 metres, at least half the price of the Rails example I linked earlier. Thanks, I've found some 1.5mm that should be long enough to cover the bits I need to swap and any future extensions if they happen. The droppers are 6 inch max so I'm good there at least. Thanks, that's as I did before with stripping the outer cover so I was on the right path at one point but seem to have strayed. Twisting the wires isn't something I've come across before so I'll do that as I go. I did read somewhere about having a break in the loop so I did that on the first attempt and will keep to it. Also hadn't heard of a snubber so that's on my reading list. Think I have everything I need to go forward now, it's a bit off the original topic but that's waiting on wire and free time to do it now.

Thanks, I've been checking what I used. I started off with 1.5mm sq for most of it (bus and droppers, found the wrapper) which was some sort of electric cable from B&Q. At some point I saw the 16x0.2 by Peco at a model shop/show and started buying that instead, I'm sure I read somewhere it was ok but it seems not, or maybe for DC, doesn't really matter now as I'm close to switching to DCC so if it's no good for that I'll have to do something. It's mainly in sidings when I extended and part of the loop when I ran out of the original wire. Anyway, I'll swap it out in the areas I used it, but it's thrown up more questions. The layout is 4ft by approx 7ft, which falls into small or medium depending who you ask. I suppose what I'm getting at is should I just bring it into line with 1.5mm all round, or do I need to start from scratch with a completely new 2.5mm bus? As for specific products, on the 'railway specific' side, do I want something like this Rails 2.5mm, or an example from B&Q which is much cheaper, couldn't find the exact one I used originally. Cheers

Thanks, I'll have a look at this when I get round to have a look at it next, would eliminate space issues. Thanks, wasn't aware of the lights taking up four of the wires, guess it's a generic decoder with the sound file being the only variation. Will report back once I've gotten whichever parts and had a go at the work.

Thanks, I'll have a look at these, the decoder has 8 wires so presumably I'd need two. The other thing I'll try later is if the decoder fits in the loco and I only need two cables for the speaker to the tender, so I can get the 2 pin version of your suggestion. This was what I looked at - 32G wire. Might mean AWG like you and the other guy mentioned, none of it means anything to me. On the wrong decoder subject, the model ref is R3086 and I bought an A1/A3 TTS sound decoder, ref R8106. Further enlightenment appreciated.

Hi guys, this question is partly to do with saving money as well as technical. I'm trying to upgrade my son's Railroad Flying Scotsman with a TTS decoder. I'm a bit irked as the instructions for this specific model and video guides for similar models I found suggested there was a decoder socket in the tender and connection to the loco so that everything could be put in there. However that is not the case, the decoder socket is in the loco with screw holes for the speaker in the tender, and no existing electrical connection. I'm sure there's no space for the decoder in the loco, so I'll need to extend the 8 wires so that it can go in the tender. I don't mind doing this and think I can do it re. soldering etc. My question is around the type of wire needed. All I have is what I used for the bus wire on the layout (16/02). This obviously looks thicker than the wires on the decoder, I don't think I'll use it as there will be 8x of it between loco and tender which will add up to some size. I've looked and there is specific decoder wire, though measured differently to the bus wire numbers I have (a DCC concepts item said 32G, either single or twin wire, whatever the difference is), either way none of it means much, I just bought what other guides said. I think I'll buy some of this wire as part of a bigger order I'm putting together for stuff, but I wondered if there's any issue in using the bus wire I had for the decoder? For example if on another example there's room for the decoder in the loco and I only need to extend the two wires to the speaker in the tender. Also, is there anything to be done about making this connection non-permanent? Any sort of connection block I can think of would be too big for 8 wires, I thought about some kind of effort inside the tender with screw terminals but that also sounds on the large side. I looked at another loco I have which does feature an electrical connector between loco and tender and whilst it gives the idea and is small enough, I'm not sure I have the skill to solder within such a small space to keep the wires separate, if the parts are available. Thoughts appreciated, thanks for reading

Thanks for all the responses, I have a CDU on the list, the HM6010 is a great suggestion that I hadn't thought of, I'll look further into. I saw a laptop charger mentioned elsewhere but I wasn't sure how much thought to give it, in terms of the how and the safety side. Do you just cut the end off, strip the wires and hook up to the CDU>point motor feeds (forgive my ignorance)? Thanks, I have a CDU on my other layout which seems to do the job and it will be a feature of this one. I'll not be using the stall type motors as it's a bit cramped with the size I've set the layout at, along with previous cost/complexity/unfamiliarity reasons.

Hi folks, apologies for a second thread in the same day, it's a different layout and query. I'm beginning to start blocking off a section of track ahead of scenic work (tunnel under a hill), this will cover one of the points and become almost impossible to see which direction it's set. It is connected to a Peco side mounted motor and a Gaugemaster GM500 to switch the frog polarity. This is switched by a miniature toggle switch on a piece of board with the track plan drawn on so I know which switch relates to which point(s). I think what I need is some sort of light either side of the switch to show which direction it is set to, but I have no idea on if it's possible with what I have and what I'd need/how to do it. One thing I thought might be of use is the GM500 can also switch signals, so if that can be utilised for the board rather than a model signal as intended in the instructions. Hope that makes sense, I was beginning to grasp some of the wiring knowledge needed but this area is completely new. If anything could be better explained or pictures needed please let me know and I'll update the question, Thanks

Afternoon, my side project has taken a few steps in moving from my head into reality and I'm starting to put a shopping list together. I'm still debating DC or DCC, and if I go with DC it should be simple as I'll buy a power supply with an AC output for the point motors. My question is in the option if I go with DCC, I don't plan on incorporating point control with it. Partly due to cost and complexity (of the parts rather than wiring, which I understand should(?) be easier), and partly as it's a small layout that the initial plan only includes 4 points. Therefore what can I use to power the point motors (probably the underboard cheaper option from Peco etc. type). I don't want to splash out on a DC controller just for that feature, however when I sift through most of the unrelated search results I only see a couple of things that might fit the bill but seem expensive for what they are (Peco PL-202 or Gaugeamster WM1 in this case). Is there anything else to look at in this scenario? thanks

As promised I've returned with an update. I'm not sure it's quite finished but it's 'built' and roughly in place, and I wanted it moved on from my workspace so I can have a go at something else over Christmas. Quick disclaimer that it probably falls out of realism on a couple of things. Off the top of my head it's a girder backing onto what will probably be a field type scene, so effectively a couple of feet of ground above the tunnel covering part of the girder section (made more sense in my head). Firstly, it was a Wills kit I used (SS57 Vari-girder Bridge), not sure wheere I got Peco from in the last post. This was to go with a supporting structure that I ended up scratch building with 2mm card and a plasticard sheet I found in the model shop (not sure of the brand). I think I mentioned at the beginning I had tried a Peco ready made tunnel mouth but I couldn't see a picture, so I've added one below, also for comparison with what I came up with. The clearance wasn't really there, with enough wiggling I could get through without scraping the paintwork but it got a bit silly. I'm using the worst case scenario of the longest stuff I have on both lines which is highly unlikely to ever happen, however playing that against sod's law I wanted to be sure. The girder bridge I assembled as per instructions and there's nothing complicated to add, used a paper template to make it wide enough and double faced as some of the back will be visible. The side walls of this I used as a template on to 2mm card, which I did at double thickness for the wing walls, ahead of mounting the plasticard. I cut one corner of the triangle off and flipped it to make a small buttress(?) at the end of the wall. I also did the vertical sides at the front of the entrance for the girder to sit on/in. I did the same again but shorter, these sit behind and are what the girder sits on. I also did a couple of small pieces for the far end of the wing walls. Once I had all the card pieces I used them as templates for the plasticard sheet. It was new to me, but found it quite easy to cut and fairly cheap (£3.30 for I think an A4 sheet). Before mounting the plasticard I used Halfords grey rattle can primer on it and the girder section, also the card as some of it might be visible for a while until I finish the scenery and it was no extra trouble. Then mounted the plasticard to the card with Copydex. I then embarked on what felt like an eternity of trying to get the right paint colour and technique for the plasticard. I wrote down various things I tried but it ended up getting so out of hand I can no longer make sense of my notes. I had acrylic, enamel, ready made wash, home made wash, sponges, stippling and more. Luckily I had a spare bit of plasticard that I cut out wrong handed for one of the walls to practice on and wipe down several times. I also watched several youtube clips and ended up with a bit of a mishmash of various things, a few examples of attempts. What I ended up on was painting an overall grey coat and spot painting individual stones with 3 or 4 different shades. As fresh it didn't look great but adding a wash I think helped a bit. I did an all over grey wash then some dark grey/black for the mortar. I tried a dust type wash but I'm not sure it looked right. In the meantime I also spent some time looking for a colour to do the girder bridge, I ended up using Revell bronze green which I'm fairly happy with. On to assembly, I had a bit of struggle getting the girders to stick to the vertical walls either end as the bottom was the only part with a decent contact surface. So I used some card scraps to make the surrounding area level and used a spare bit of mounted plasitcard to kind of sandwich the girder between front and back. Loctite all purpose seemed to do the job with attaching the plasticard pieces together. I had some smaller plasticard pieces around the sides and so on, these are ok but below a point the plastic will start to curl and add an extra issue of keeping it flat whilst the glue dries. On the inside wall of the vertical sides which was a few mm wide I just used a pencil to mark out the horizontal stones. On to a couple of finishing touches. To finish the capping on some of the walls I was able to use some of the junk sprue parts from the girder bridge, primed and painted Tamiya buff, looks a bit bright but didn't have anything else and wanted to not have more grey. Lastly pics of it in it's rough final place. The back of one of the wing walls was part of the experimenting for the paint but I've put it so it's almost hidden, between the tight angle against the backscene, when the scenery is added behind it should soon be forgotten. Earlier on I said it wasn't quite finished. I need to put something for capping on the vertical walls and little buttress at the bottom of the wing walls. I've got card options from other kits but if there's a plastic option I'd rather go with that for consistency. I'm also not sure on the wash, particularly the mortar wash which might be too dark, in two minds on that, and something to tone down the buff capping, which I'll do once I paint and add the other capping in the same colour. Also to continue into the tunnel, I have more plasticard for side walls to go inside some distance but I'll go with a simpler painting method. Maybe need it on the roof as well though it will be invisible from almost every angle. Finally the surrounding scenery, particularly the hill/field to sit on the tunnel and come up to the mouth. Some of the wood and insulation board is in the background that I've made a start on, this will extend to this entrance and slope upwards from the tunnel, with some grass banks either side of the wing walls. If there's any comments or suggestions please put them forward. This was the first time doing a number of things and it was mostly enjoyable, but for my procrastinating and indecision. At some point I'll have to do something like this for the other end so anything to improve on this one or that I can take forward for the next one would be great. Thanks again for the tips which was now a couple of months ago.