Moxy

There is more, it's series 11 of the 'new' series of Dr Who that started with Christopher Eccleston in 2005. The original series ran from 1963 to c. 1990.

Really Useful Products have a link here to their stockists, but if you find one locally, I'd recommend ringing them before you go. Not all shops will have all the boxes in stock. I'm sure the last one I bought (not a 77L one) was from The Range, but I can't see Really Useful Boxes on their website at the moment. HTH Moxy

Can't find the reference now, but I believe it's to do with keeping the pipe runs short from the controls to the cylinders. (Whilst most British and European ones follow this pattern, some American ones, made by Davenport have the cylinders at the front.)

Very nice, Tom. I ordered a short sloped tank version about a month ago. Not had time to put it together yet, but very impressed with the print.

HI If you are on the line to Bromley Cross, the viaduct on the left was the former Astley Bridge branch, with a twig off to Halliwell Goods. Astley Bridge station closed to passengers quite early (1930's?), a victim of Bolton Corporation Trams that ran along Blackburn Road, but later became a coal yard. Back o'the Bank Power Station was near there, the coal supplies for that were shunted via Astley Bridge. After Astley Bridge closed completely (mid 1960's) the branch was cut back to Halliwell Goods, but that only lasted until the end of the 60's. Darcy Lever was reached by a line that trailed off to the right before you reach Bolton Station, just south of Orlando Street bridge. There was a bridge over Manchester Road (now gone), and the line ran behind what is now Asda (built on the site of Burnden Park Football Ground). There is viaduct (stone pillars/metal bridge) just behind Asda over what is now St Peters Way (A666), but originally crossed a canal. Hope this helps. Cheers Moxy (who lived in Bolton for 18 years!)

Hawthorn Leslie built Nos.1 & 2, Robert Stephenson & Hawthorns built Nos. 3 & 4 No. 2 was rebuilt as a battery loco & moved to Heysham Power Station,two of the others (1 & 3 I think) are preserved, although I'm not sure where either of them are. No. 1 was at Manchester Science & Industry Museum, along with one of the Agecroft Colliery steam locos, but I don't think the electric loco is there anymore.

The answer to that is, sadly, no. None of the former Chivers kits are available any longer, the business is closed for family reasons. Moxy

I have only just seen your post, you may have sorted the works plates, but if you're still looking, Narrow Planet do custom etched plates. No connection, just a satisfied customer. HTH Moxy

The reason for closure is because of family matters. I don't know exactly what those are (and I'm not going to ask), but possibly something that means that they can't even commit to another month of trading. It may be disappointing for us as potential customers, but family always comes first and we must respect Simon and Roger's decision.

I no longer subscribe to Model Railroader, but for anyone looking for copies in the UK, try Newsstand. You can subscribe for as many or as few copies as you like, to suit your budget. I use them for my subs to MRJ, and they give a really good service. Everything is done online or by e-mail and I can highly recommend them. No connection other than as a satisfied customer. HTH Moxy

It's not in 'Approach to Model Railway Layout Design,' it's in one of his other books, 'Light Railway Layout Designs.' It's Gairloch* on the Wester Ross railway, about 10' x 3' in 4mm scale I've had a quick search for the layout plan & I can't see it online anywhere, but if you're still struggling to find it, drop me a PM. (* Not to be confused with the Gairloch & Wester Ross Railway, which is an extensive 009 layout built by Stan Williams & the late Roger Christian) HTH Moxy

Latest Engine Shed is up https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/news/the-engine-shed/r7229-controller-48ds-peckett-b2 Samples of Ruston 48DS & Peckett B2, plus a preview of the large Prairie coming next month.

Halling made an H0 one for the Heaton Park Tramway, that was sold through East Lancs Model Trams, but I very much doubt whether they are still available. It appears to have been a limited run of 100, about 9 years ago, so they probably sold out a long time ago. Unless anyone else knows better, you're probably looking for secondhand examples, although I don't suppose there's any harm in you contacting either Halling or East Lancs Model Trams to ask if they have any. Moxy

It's the Isle of Man, they changed the letter every 999 numbers, the suffix letter didn't indicate the year.

The 'LNWR' liveried example was 5292, black, lined red with white lettering, according to 'British Railways Locomotives 1948.' (OPC ISBN 0860934667). A couple of months later, as 45292, it was in full LNWR livery at a display at Marylebone. Moxy

If I may add a tip? For those of us who have 'Location' in our profile, you've probably noticed the sofware shows 'LocationTownname' all as one word. If you want to separate it, edit 'Location' to ':[space]Townname' then it will show correctly. The software doesn't seem to accept '[space]Townname' without the punctuation. (I know, I've tried). HTH Moxy

Wow, is it really that long? I've just checked, I joined in September 2008, so just within the 'old' software version. I do remember the change to the 'community' tag, but I could have sworn it was more recent than that. Doesn't time fly when you're having fun! Regards Moxy

That sounds interesting, do you have W&U ends also available? Even if I don't have a suitable Tyco coach, I'm quite sure W&U coach sides could be mated with a scratchbuilt chassis & roof. Moxy

Exactly like that! Having seen your photo I think I would tempted to shorten boiler/front footplate/cab and possibly make the footplate sit a little lower, if the motor will allow it. Now where did I put those spare J72 bodies...?

It sounds like some sort of scam to me, they want you look at their pages to try to sell you something you probably don't need. Change your password, then delete the e-mail. I'd report it to your e-mail supplier as a phishing e-mail. For all we know they may have sent that e-mail to all Talk21 customers. HTH Moxy

I like your thinking about using 00 for 4' or 4' 1 1/2" gauge. How about that Jouef/Electrotren chassis and a Mainline J72 body? The J72 is a small 4mm scale loco so could be used as a possible basis for a narrow gauge loco. There are plenty of them about on Ebay with split gears going cheap (obvious by the connecting rods at odd angles) With a bit of gentle model bashing you could end up with something like Almathea or Dinorwic from the Padarn Railway. Moxy

Hi You need Parkside Models PA34. There is a link here to the item on Hattons website, but they are widely available from a number of retailers. HTH Moxy

It doesn't seem to have it's own thread, but it's mentioned here https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/117630-chris-nevards-brew-st/&do=findComment&comment=2536818 with a link to a 'bare boards' trackplan shot https://albionyard.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/img_1188.jpg HTH Moxy

The 421 is in the 0-4-0 poll here, http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/139231-poll-which-industrial-diesel-0-4-04w-should-be-made-in-rtr-industrial-loco-poll-3/ Regards Moxy

Hi Corbs, I feel your pain, painting is my least favourite part of finishing a model, I've had similar problems as you. Here are some suggestions that may help, some of which I use & some from friends which I haven't tried yet, but may be of use. When painting, warm the spray can before using it, stick it in a jug of hot water (from the kitchen tap, not the kettle) & leave it for about 15 minutes before shaking. Also warm the model up with a hairdryer on low setting. Both of these seem to help the paint stick to the model. Make sure the paint is fully cured before masking for a second coat. Paint that seems dry to the touch may not be fully dry all the way through to the base layer, so applying and removing tape too soon lifts the paint. I have a mate who leaves the first coat of paint to dry until he can't smell the solvents in the paint any longer, meaning they have all evaporated and the paint is fully dry. With paint bleed, one tip I have heard (but not tried) is when you have masked the model, spray another thin layer of the 'masked' colour over it to seal the edge of the tape (in your case the yellow), and allow that to dry. Then when you spray the second colour it can't bleed under the tape (in theory anyway). What sort of masking tape are you using? The ordinary decorator's masking tape is too 'sticky' for our uses, which might be another reason why it is removing the numbers from your 47, you really need something like the Tamiya tape https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/tamiya-masking-tape-refill-6mm/580565-1000 on the surface of a model. Please don't take any of what I've said as criticism, I'm offering these as suggestions that may help with the issues you are having, if anyone else has any suggestions I'd be interested in them as well. Like I say, painting isn't my favourite bit of modelling! HTH Regards Paul