Keith Addenbrooke

Very impressed with the stonework - looks excellent to me.

As for the question about precise siting, would it be an idea to mock up the loco yard scene so you can see how the whole picture might look when complete, in case it helps you decide?  Just a thought.  Hope that's OK, Keith.

If it's a vote, I say #2 the middle one, Keith.

1 hour ago, F-UnitMad said:

Lighter rail for a US branch or Short line is always worthwhile, I think. Even the difference between Code 83 & 70 is apparent in your photos, as is the difference berween Codes 125 & 100 on my O scale layout.

PS, Keith, if you wish to dispose of your surplus Code 100*, let me know... 😉

 

*edit - just the plain flextrack, that is. 

Thanks.  Just to clarify in case I've misread your post, my photos compare Code 70 with Code 100.  I don't have any Code 83 (I had some a while back I got from @F-UnitMad but it has since been passed on to another RMwebber).  

Afraid I don't have any surplus good Code 100 now, the bits I've kept have previously been cut and pinned in an unfinished layout from way back, sorry.  Keith.

10 hours ago, Wendell1976 said:

Here's a beautiful picture of two Norfolk Southern Railway trains near Altoona, Pennsylvania. The trains are traversing the Horseshoe Curve in the midst of fall colors. Altoona is about 100 miles(160 kilometers) east of Pittsburgh.

https://www.railpictures.net/photo/817949/

 

Wendell

Idaho, USA

Wow!  Most of the pictures I've seen of the Horseshoe have been in black and white (and when there were still four tracks too).  Not sure I've ever seen on with such amazing fall colours before.  Thanks for posting the link here, Keith.

My thanks to @Ian Morgan, @rekoboy, @Gordonwis, @DCB and @EmporiaSub for the responses and guidance: as always prompt, kind and informative (not just for me, but for others too I'm sure).  The consistency across the responses is particularly helpful. 

Tillig Code 83 does seem to be available in the UK from some of the major suppliers, so may be worth a try, otherwise sticking with Code 100 is the way to go (as Gordon highlighted, it is really HO track after all, of course).

I've therefore used a bit of spare time over lunch today to try the same two pieces of rolling stock on some Peco Code 100 - the photos seem to have come out better in the daylight, and the clearance looks quite visible.

Fleischmann HO Carriage:

Roco Professional Wagon:

I've also dug out a couple of older photos of my own from a static HO cakebox diorama I made back in 2019:

In both photos, both pieces of track are Code 100 Setrack - the left hand piece having had the sleepers adjusted to replace the sections designed for power clips and / or accessories before ballasting and painting.  It shows the appearance can be improved, though note this was for an unpowered diorama so I didn't need to keep the rail tops or inner faces clean (note: it's not a big gap in the track at the back - it's a mirror).

I'm really glad no-one suggested re-wheeling stock for finer track...some jobs will always be beyond me:

Thanks again - at some point soon I plan to write up what I'm thinking about trying next, which will be the next post in my current RMweb blog.  Have a good week, Keith.

I'm wondering which Code H0 track to use for running some European models manufactured in the 1980s / 90s?  Is there a recommended or common range used here in the UK when modelling standard gauge lines?

I've been a contented user of Peco Code 100 track for OO and HO, but am now wanting to switch to finer scale track.  I've been trying Peco Code 70 HO US outline track this afternoon (details in the USA & Canadian Railroads Forum here).  It's great for my US outline stock, but my wider flanged European rolling stock finds it a bit too fine. 

Comparing flanges shows this is no surprise:

The European wagon in that photo (top) is an older Fleischmann model.  I've had a go at taking a photo of a similarly wheeled Fleischmann carriage to try and show where the flanges touch the spikes holding the rails in place:

The close-up photo isn't very clear, but hopefully shows enough.

I've now discovered it's not just older stock.  This is a newer Roco Professional Range butterwagon, which also touches the spikes as it crosses them:

I accept  I'm trying European models on US outline track, but I don't have any Peco Code 75 finescale track (for example) to try.  Would that be OK?

Another option that might make my life easier (though not realistic I'd imagine) would be Peco Code 83 US outline track. 

Just after any advice.  I'd prefer to use Peco if possible for availability (and cost) here in the UK.  All thoughts appreciated, though I've never handlaid track and probably don't have the tools, skills or patience for handlaid points.  Thanks, Keith.

(My apologies for the poor photos - not very helpful, sorry)

I don't think this has been covered in detail so I hope this is OK - my apologies if I've missed an earlier analysis.

My plans for American HO had included a compromise choice to use up some Peco Code 100 Streamline track I have.  When painted and ballasted I figured it wouldn't look too bad (the Code 80 on my H0e / HOn30 mini-layout looks OK to me).

That was until I took this 'end on' photo for my own American modelling thread:

I haven't been able to unsee the width of the rails!  My local specialist model shop were happy to let me compare unboxed Code 70 and Code 83 Peco flextrack alongside some Code 100 (we included Code 75 as well).  For the kind of lines I'm looking at Code 70 is appropriate, and looked the part, so I bought some to try.  For anyone who's not yet seen it, this is what I've learned.

First off, a much happier end on view:

Comparing the Code 70 to my Code 100 shows just how much of a difference there is:

Comparing a #6 switch (bottom) with a long radius Code 100 point (top) - note the Code 70 switch has a continuous switchblade.  It's spiked about as far as the hinge in the other point, with the rest to the turnout free to bend when switched.  I don't know how durable it will prove, but I like the look in close up photos:

Did I encounter any problems?  Just one boxcar needed the Kadee coupler 'brake hose' lifting to clear the switch, but it had slipped.  How about older rolling stock:

The horn hook on this older tank car did catch on the switch blade.  I'll be swapping it for a Kadee anyway, but a gondola I have with a shortened hook had no problems:

The only piece of rolling stock which had problems on the straight track was an older B&O hopper - bumping along.  A quick look confirmed it has larger flanges, which was no surprise once I noticed the axles were stamped "Rivarossi" (on the left):

Replacement wheels should fix this - the trucks look worth keeping: note the separate metal suspension springs - not bad for a model probably dating from the 1970s (or earlier).  None of my US produced rolling stock had problems, including all the Athearn blue box and older Roundhouse kits I have.  Everything glided beautifully along the track and through the switch.

The flextrack is a lot less rigid than the Code 100, and there has to be a risk of rails 'springing' out of the spikes if not handled carefully, but overall I was easily convinced by the look and performance of the track (convinced enough to share it here).

The only downside: my Fleischmann Epoche 1 German rolling stock won't run on this due to bigger flanges:

But for American HO I think I'm sold on the product.  Hope this helps, Keith.

(My apologies for the poor close up photos - I've not found a way of clearly transferring them from my phone to my laptop while shrinking them to a smaller file size.  My thanks to the staff at Hattons of Widnes for their in-store help)

Thank you @Klaus ojo, I expect I will have a lot of questions about Epoche 1 railways where I will appreciate your knowledge.  I will make a lot of mistakes, but the trains are quite beautiful to watch, Keith.

52 minutes ago, JZ said:

I'm afraid Photoshop is not my forte.

Me neither, Keith.

If you're into Photoshop, then add some sky above the backscene to that final photo and you'll have a wow of a picture I'd suggest.  Nice start to the weekend!  Keith.

2 hours ago, sandwich station said:

 

It has not re-appeared on mine but I did email them the other day and was told If I wanted something removed from My Trunk, let them know what it is and they will do it for me.

Thank you.  Now I understand it's due to a stocktake, I wouldn't expect the removal button to reappear until they're done counting.

I had a problem a few weeks ago that fraud on my credit card meant my Bank cancelled it and issued a new one.  It meant I couldn't use the remove button on some small items I had to cancel from my Trunk, as the system couldn't then do a refund back to my card.  Hattons processed the removal manually for me instead (refunded to my bank a/c same day).  It was very efficient - I really appreciated it took Hattons extra time and effort on my behalf, due to no fault of theirs (or mine - the fraud was completely unconnected, just to be clear).  I did then replenish my Trunk with other items, the ones I've now happily received.  I was very grateful, Keith.

4 minutes ago, irishmail said:

 

This is a quote from an email I had from Hatton's yesterday. Hope this helps.

 

"With Christmas fast approaching, we are due to perform a warehouse stocktake imminently. This means that we will need to dispatch all Trunks by Wednesday 22nd November. We will automatically dispatch them from Tuesday 14th November if you do not dispatch it yourself. Thank you for your patience and understanding regarding this."

 

Thank you - makes sense.  I'd processed my Trunk for shipping last Friday evening, so wouldn't have qualified for an email.  I note the reference to Stock Take dates I'd previously referred to in the Trunk FAQ's has now also been updated with a more general explanatory note so it all fits together.  As a customer of Hattons for many years it's helpful to understand - and the bubble wrap comes in handy in the run up to Christmas too.  Thanks, Keith.

On 13/11/2023 at 18:02, MattR said:

So the culprit for the missing "Remove Item" from the Trunk was due to stock take time. I had wondered if that was possibly it.

Out of interest, could I just ask if this means the "Remove item" option has reappeared? (My trunk is currently empty as I've had my items shipped).  The website dates for stocktaking suggest a different timetable - has Hattons confirmed that was the reason?  Just curious in case it happens again.  On the subject of bargains, my latest purchase would fit that criterion: an HO InterMountain 60' boxcar that seems to be in mint condition (based on opening the box when it arrived).  Paid far less than I have for other eqiivalent products recently.  Very happy, Keith.

A trick I've been taught for small components that can easily ping their way to oblivion is to thread a length of cotton through the centre hole - if they do then ping, they can't get far.

Once the relevant operation has deen performed, the thread just pulls out.

In my case it was specifically for HO scale Kadee coupler springs, and I must admit it works - as long as I don't lose the spring when threading it!

Don't know if it would work for items like the bush you describe, but can't see why not.  Hope it helps, Keith.

Hi there, I've only scratchbuilt a few wagons (in H0e so not too different to N scale).  One thing I learnt early on was to use a double thickness base layer for the chassis to reduce warping - whatever thickness of styrene you're using.  Of course, any reinforcing helps add weight, so is no bad thing.  Good luck with the build - looks to be a very neat start, Keith.

I must admit when I made a couple of these kits I didn't even attempt to cut the glazing to fit each window frame separately - I just put a glazing strip along each side.  Well done for doing the job properly, Keith.

Hi Mark, you’re a much braver man than I am, but I look forwards to learning from your build.  Thanks for sharing, and well done for getting started - often the hardest step!  Keith.

2 hours ago, ruggedpeak said:

Slightly off topic, the Rails of Sheffield Ebay store has 20% off with code SAVENOW and currently has a lot of Roco SBB coaches and wagons. I don't know the Swiss model market stock well enough to know if the prices are competitive but may be of interest to UK based Swiss modellers. Code expires 16/11/23.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/railsofsheffield

I think some of the coaches may be the slightly shortened 1:93.5 length, but I’m not sure from the photographs.  Best thing is to cross-reference the product code with other sources to check.  To my mind the prices look reasonable for today’s market - and if a 20% discount is applied then could be good value indeed.  Can sometimes be worth making an offer on a ‘buy it now’ listing on eBay too - sometimes the difference between recommended offer prices as against list price is significant.

Hope that helps, Keith.

I also have a couple of examples of coaches with brakeman’s cabins too:

I’m afraid my knowledge of the period is really minimal, so I’d welcome any more insights from others, but it seemed relevant to this thread to show it’s not just freight wagons.  Hope that’s Ok, Keith.

Some very nice trackwork on that layout too - really like the gentle curves, Keith.

19 minutes ago, JZ said:

The kit comes with laser-cut framing, then individual planks added. So I don't see why not use coffee stirrers. I see a lot of places now have thinner stirrers more suited to this kind of thing. Or you could bulk buy from eBay or Amazon.

Thanks - the bulk buy ones I have are 5mm wide, which is quite wide in HO (about 17”), especially when horizontal - but when vertical I think I can get away with them that wide more easily (I have started a structure where I split them but it is a rather thankless task).  Keith.

Very nice.  A blacksmith’s is a building that invites interior detailing.  Can I ask how wide the planks are on the kit - it looks like the sort of thing that could be copied using coffee stirrers (and time)?  Just wondered, Keith.

6 minutes ago, 5BarVT said:

“Welcome to Manchester where the local time is 0806.”

I had flightradar set to MAN from my daughter flying back from NZ via a stopover in Singapore last month and was about to turn it off when I saw SQ52 centre screen. Will have been just as it hit the deck.  (Making the big assumption that you flew direct!)

Paul.

Good spot Paul.  Based on our weather here this morning, I’ll guess it’s probably raining in Manchester for the welcoming committee as well right now?  Keith.

That is the world I grew up in (give or take a few DMU’s).  Perfectly captured - thanks for bringing this back, Keith.

I’ve received a great deal of helpful advice and encouragement since I began trying my hand at Narrow Gauge modelling again in early 2021.  Today I had the chance to give something back, with a small display at our local 009 Society Group meeting.  I’ve never seen myself as a potential exhibitor - at any level - but this morning I carefully loaded the car boot with my complete collection of bubble wrap, a couple of my IKEA modelling tables and the collection of models that have been featured in this thread, and headed off:

The aim of my display was quite simple - to pass on my thanks for the help I’ve had, and to (hopefully) encourage others:

My thanks also to all here in the Narrow Gauge modelling Forum on RMweb for the encouragement too!

I made sure there was room on my tables for essential supplies, and sat down to enjoy a day talking model railways:

At the end of the afternoon, when the hall was less busy, I did tidy away the notices and ran a few trains to finish the day.

While I hadn’t managed to complete the Church kit in time for the exhibition, as a work-in-progress it proved to be quite a talking point, as did the variety in the models I have - while my flitting about from one project to another makes progress on my layout ideas difficult, today it was an advantage, as I had more to show than I’d realised.  A very nice day.

When I began this thread in April 2021, I had grand ideas for a first H0e layout.  I didn’t appreciate I was biting off more than I could chew at the time, but while my layout ideas have been simplified, it’s given me more time for trying some modelling, which I’ve discovered I enjoy far more than I thought I would.

Other than completing my Church kit (it’ll be done by Christmas, just don’t ask which year), I have actually now completed all the different things I wanted to try out in order to get started.  It means this beginner’s thread is now basically complete, and I’m happy to draw it to a close on an unexpected high note.  I’ll be back when the next project starts.  Thanks to all, Keith.