Keith Addenbrooke

Thanks Mark. It’s been fascinating to watch what how you’ve put it all together, and kept adding detail after many of us would have given up. When I did an 009 Steam Tramway loco a couple of years ago the job was made much easier by receiving a detailed 3-D print in the kit: I just had to be careful painting it! Your more traditional model takes it all to a whole extra level, Keith.

Raise you to 5, or maybe even 6? The three referred to were - host team win, visiting team win, or tie. The fourth is a draw, but a fifth could be abandonment. Would a game being voided at the last minute for some nefarious reason be a sixth? Yes, I am putting off this evening’s chores. Keith.

Seeing the cab between your fingers (final photo) shows just how fine all the detail is - well done once again, Keith.

Quite early on in this thread (page number in the 30's perhaps?), I believe @t-b-g posted a link to this YouTube video by Clive Bennett: This was Part I - there is a Part II and other more recent offerings on the same channel. I don't know Clive Bennett personally. Keith.

Purely for reference, further to my contribution to this thread last Summer, I was reminded of it again yesterday when I set up a test circuit for some newly acquired stock. This is H0: coaches are all full scale length 1:87 (ie: 303mm = 26.4m) and the table top is 1.8m x 1.0m. Track is Setrack using 2nd radius curves (438mm or 17.24") Model Notes: European Rolling Stock uses kinematic couplings designed to navigate table top layouts without buffers locking with tight curves (sometimes tighter). Equivalent UK / OO stock may not traverse 2nd radius curves. At the same time the close couplings close up on straight sections - these are entirely unmodified coaches. Prototype Notes: The Orient Red / White Livery was introduced by the DB in the late 1980s. By this time newer coach liveries were also appearing, so while this consist could be entirely prototypical, it is more likely the coaches would not all be matching and there would be some with the new red / white / pink stripe livery as well. It is common for European trains not to include a brake coach in their consist, so this is not unusual. As I say - just for reference. The train takes up half the circuit when stationary. Keith. (Apologies - transferring the video to YouTube has left it rather fuzzy: the original was clearer)

Hi John, personally I quite like B from the 70’s, but that was more ‘my era’, so it’s logical that I would, Keith.

Hi there - first time I’ve seen this layout. A very enjoyable video: great to see decent length trains given space to run: plenty of mainline action. Also a really good advert for how well made card kits can look great on a layout - the shot with the town scene in the background (around 8.40) was my favourite. Particularly liked the Motorail train too. Some nice details - such as smoke stains above the tracks on the over bridge, but the thought did cross my mind that I hope you like ballasting! Looks like you have a lot of fun up in the loft, Keith.

Time to get started. I’ve already built a small Faller H0 laser cut kit to get started this year (for my parallel German modelling project). First out of the box here is the rail-served store kit I have in stock - alsoshown in the opening post above: It’s a model of a prototype that used to exist in New York State, but in a lot of ways could be typical of many Main Street Stores across America. The original was rail-served - with a loading dock round the back, and while I understand that faced a standard gauge team track, I think it could be an ideal candidate for a switching feature on a common carrier narrow gauge line. It’s certainly not a background kit - the footprint is quite large (note how the base comes as two jigsaw pieces, to be held together with a pair of ‘peel and stick’ splicers): The walls are lightweight balsa by the look and feel of them, so I was keen to get all the outer walls assembled in my first modelling session, before leaving them for the glue to dry: Always feels good to get started, Keith.

Just to add a thank you for the encouraging responses to this first build / post here. It gives me every incentive to press straight on. There will be a bit of a gap here though, as my next build is for my parallel HOn30 Narrow Gauge Project - a kit I picked up second hand for a rail served store (it has a loading dock at the back), Keith:

Taking up @Vecchio’s observation, I posed this alternative shot tonight: I’m no photographer, but this maybe shows how both buildings might appear together? Just a thought, Keith.

I saw an H0 scale VW Microbus on sale, so bought it to satisfy my curiosity: Left to right - the 1:60 toy bus, my new H0 version, and TT (1:120) for comparison: The H0 bus looks a bit small, but the dimensions seem to scale to 1:87 OK: Sam (in blue) is quite tall - a good 6’ plus hat: Not sure what’s with all the yellow and white! Keith.

Very true - not just passing vehicles either. This is my front garden: the fir tree has grown that way (I’ve cut the bush back a bit to give the tree more room, but it’s easy to see how it has impeded the natural growth of the tree), Keith:

Hi Mikkel, good point. It’s definitely something to look out for, particularly some plastic kits still being made from older tooling (often now marketed as cheaper, entry-level ‘Hobby’ ranges). Best advice seems to be to seek out photos of the building next to a train where possible, especially as some station kits do fall into this category of underscale items. If I look at the two Faller kits in the header photo for this blog post, I think the brick built Schoenberg Station looks fine as a single storey wayside halt. The restaurant / gate house kit however puts a second storey into the same sized building, so I think the upstairs would be rather cramped (particularly as the design points towards there being a raised ground level floor). As the door is still big enough for a 1:87 person, it’s not so obviously underscale, but it would be fair to say it’s a bit small. Ironically perhaps, it seems to me that some of the larger kits are less prone to this approach to scale, such as this model of the Swiss BLS station at Ostermundigen I made last year (it has appeared elsewhere on RMweb previously): Note the Swiss coaches in the foreground are themselves made to a flexi scale length of 1:93.5, not 1:87, while the coaches behind are full length 1:87 models - something else to look out for of course. The short coaches are still fully detailed. Some kits (eg: a range made by Auhagen) are intentionally made to a compromise scale of 1:100. They can either be slightly undersized for H0 or slightly over scale for TT, though to be fair they are correctly marketed as a 1:100 range. These three line side huts on my H0e mini-layout are an example - you’ll notice there are no people in this yard scene for that reason. Thanks for pointing that out - it is something to look out for, which I should have mentioned with this kit, Keith.

Hi there. I've just had a quick read of the thread so far - I have the original Model Railroader Project Layout in a book of 6 HO Model Railroads you can build (all taken from the pages of MRR in the 70s / 80s). If I could add a couple of things that may help explain the original concept: 1. It was built to modular standards, so the separate track at the front was a through mainline (I don't have access to the book at the moment, but from memory there were two mainlines in the original, with all the pointwork off the third / inner running line). In stand alone mode, the layout was more for photography, though convoluted switching puzzle operation was possible. It did look very nice, and the complex trackwork appeared quite appropriate. 2. In the original the docks were represented by a small portion of a huge ship on the backscene - which is why there was no water on the module). The Port of Los Angeles is a massive operation, so this bit didn't try and replicate actual ship loading / unloading, rather some of the big transfer sheds and operations in the environs. 3. Also from memory, the original was also built very quickly - once the pointwork had been figured out it was an easy build. The layout was mounted on castors for portability. Hope that is of use - basically it was a very nice module that captured the essence of the huge prototype in a 6' length. Hope that helps, Keith.

Introduction to the Blog When I was growing up, Continental modelling seemed to me to be something best left to the experts, super-skilled modellers and those with extensive experience of rail travel across Europe, or with much bigger budgets than mine. But I've been discovering over the last couple of years that it's far easier to get started than I realised. I've been missing out! So the aim of this blog is simply to share what I'm learning. A lot of it won't be new, but if I can do it, then truly anyone can. I have another blog for my project ideas, layout designs and ambitions, which can be found here. This is for reporting progress on what I'm actually building: Getting Started: Faller 130594 Old Gate House Restaurant Kit (H0) My 'modelling year' tends to fall into stages: January to Easter is for inside modelling, the Summer is for Layout Design and Baseboard building, and the Autumn for tidying up the loose ends before I pause again, usually around the end of October. So I thought it would be a good idea to get started this year with a simple kit I had in stock, a Faller Laser Cut H0 model. The kit is based around the idea of an old gatehouse (or a Crossing Keeper's dwelling) that has been re-purposed as a Restaurant. Only the building is included in the kit, which has 85 parts and comes pre-coloured: Personally I'm not sure it would actually be suitable as a restaurant - there's no fire escape door from the kitchen, for example, nor the kind of additional external vents that might be expected. But it's a nice general purpose cottage anyway, and the idea of marketing it as a restaurant shows buildings don't have to be used for their original purpose (as in real life). For adhesive I used some Noch Laser Kit glue I had in stock, with Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze to fix windows in place. Construction is straightforward, instructions are pictorial, and as with other laser cut kits the shell of the building is built up from multiple layers of thin wood and card: Parts are finely cut and fit together easily, making for a relaxing modelling session - I wasn't trying to kit bash the model into anything else. By the end of my first modelling session I had a recognisable structure I could leave for the glue to set: I only have very basic tools, so use whatever is to hand for weights or clamps when needed: Finer details are on very thin card - more like paper. I found a duplicate copy of this next sheet in my kit: I don't know if that's deliberate (because of the risk of it tearing), or if I was just lucky. I tried to apply glue quickly and sparingly as the pieces will - unsurpirsingly - warp very easily: Something I've only really come across with Continental kits are these complete folded paper inserts. I've not been very neat when folding and gluing them together in the past, so I was conscious this was an opportunity to try again: Another area I've often botched when rushing to finish are the additional details. These can actually take up far more time than I usually allow - such as this roof light bay window. It has eight pieces to fit together and will be very visible when done. And there we have it: The footprint of the model is the same as that of a small, wayside station I made last year: Schoenberg. It's a mirror image, but most likely explains something I'd been wondering about with that other structure - why it has a chimney stack above a door (there is a space on the roof without tile detail where it has to go). Looks like Faller maybe re-used a standard design? And that's it. I initially shied away from laser cut kits when I first came across them - as they can be more expensive than the plastic alternatives I thought they'd be more complex, but having made a couple I'm finding the precision with which they can be made makes assembly relaxing and enjoyable. And my modelling year has begun. Thanks for having a look, Keith.

Cutting consistently neat, small apertures for the narrow window openings in 1mm thick plastic card takes some doing: very impressive (not surprised it took some time), Keith.

Hi @SimonHMT, just wondered if you went ahead with this? Another option can be an older second hand loco from a more detailed range. I’ve picked up a Fleischmann version of the BR 218. It is also in HO, but in the earlier Orient Red / White Bib livery. I thought it might be useful to post some comparative photos here for anyone interested in getting started: There’s quite a lot more detail - including the exhausts on the roof - and the mouldings (grilles etc) are crisper, plus this model has red directional lights at the rear in addition to the white headlights on the Piko Hobby version. I don’t know if this is DCC compatible (I use DC), and it will need running in as I think it has been in storage for quite a while, but I’ve bought it from a reputable retailer with a good returns policy if needed. Hope that helps, Keith.

Ah, now I see it! Thank you. I’ve seen a couple of videos of the Club Exhibition: looked to be a good range of layouts, and a week attended show (visitors from across the age ranges, always nice to see). Well done to all, Keith.

Thanks for the explanation - you need two sets of Reefer cars so they can be swapped over / switched as part of the operating sequence. I was thinking of the sort of operation that arises with (for example) open coal hoppers: one set loaded and one empty for through trains in opposite directions - but I couldn’t work out what would look different with Reefers. Thanks, Keith.

Don’t know if you’ve tried this already, but I’ve sometimes had luck checking the product archives (Roco’s is Roco.cc Kataloge- Archiv). If there’s an information sheet available for your product it may have part numbers to help. Once I have a part number googling gets easier. In the meantime, are your waggons visible from both sides on the layout or just one? If it’s just one, an option would be to fit these door wheels to just one side of one wagon, and use the spares for the same side of the wagon that has lost them. Don’t know if that might help? Just some thoughts. Hope that’s OK, Keith.

Do train spotters get a pie and hot Bovril? (or equivalent 1950’s sustenance). Just wondered, Keith.

I like the inclusion of an interurban line - nice touch not often included. I’m a bit confused about your comment swapping over loaded and empty reefers - to my mind they’ll look identical? (I note some of the box cars in the photos have doors open, but I wouldn’t have thought empty reefers would travel like that? Just wondered, Keith.

Some great photos - reminds me I must call into the Clubrooms and have a look! Keith.

A YouTube video of this exhibition just happened to pop up in my suggested watch list on TV the other night - the layout was third to be shown (the well-known UK OO Copper Wort was first, which was interesting). Sorry I don’t have a link, but just wanted to acknowledge the layout came across well on film. Well done! Keith.

“I don’t believe it!” - no sooner have I read and showed my appreciation for this helpful blog post last night than today I just happen to see on sale today a model I’ve been after for ages (a structure kit in my case). Trouble is, I’ve been looking for an affordable example for so long that in the meantime I’ve already bought and built a slightly smaller substitute, plus bought another (not yet built) to fill the resulting gap in my plans. So I can’t say I “need” the original I’ve now seen - as the others are certainly good enough. If I only I’d not read this post yesterday… (Admittedly, I am taking Barry’s point in a slightly different direction: in my case the prototype for the substitute structure kit I went for is not quite on the button, whereas the original would have been: hence I’m still using the “good enough” rule)