RLWP

In fact, you put water troughs into a dip in the track. That way you don't need end walls in the trough - they knock the scoops off Richard

Another one. Seen today at Coleshill: There seems to be a new line going in Richard

Alvechurch hire boat Richard

That's the blighter See what this thread has done - now I look out for power lines as I drive around! Richard

Looks like I need to find an OS map Thanks Paul Richard

It's all this damn threads fault... Seen from the M69: https://www.google.com/maps/@52.5676874,-1.2740915,3a,37.4y,165.41h,98.36t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s4DgbRoVlIy16DCfGSvTczg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656 What's going on there then? There seems to be a 90 degree change in direction in that line https://www.google.com/maps/place/M69/@52.5654876,-1.2733805,166m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x487744c8bc77a86f:0xad0b424f9bae3be0!8m2!3d52.5265057!4d-1.3309517 Richard

Presumably, either way would be a solution to the OPs problem? I like the underslung dolls myself. Unusual and interesting Richard

This is an Ebay ad, so it might disappear At the far end of the tunnel are a pair of bracket signals positioned so there is light behind them. That way they can be clearly seen from inside the tunnel. There are drawings and images in Richard Foster's book Now, this is a guess - Is the signal on the left of the tunnel mouth for the line approaching the camera through the tunnel? Mounted on the 'wrong' side because of the curvature? Richard

Where you don't have to model them - bonus! Richard

Is this one to isolate the buffer stop? I assume bolting a big lump of rail across the tracks would upset the track circuiting Richard

To be clear - I'm not going to use cloud wallpaper. It would look good in a room, I can't see it working for model railways Or Wallace & Gromit, Thomas, Ivor the Engine, Noddy, Chigley....* Again, I'd rather spend the money on models than walls, so paint is it! Richard *I realise there will be many others I have missed

This is nice: £85 a roll... Richard

I'm trying to think what terms to use to search for such a light, so far without success Richard

I've got a sheet of 1/4" Tufnol if that helps...

Don't! You'll give Igor ideas

There will be NO Farrow and Ball!!! I can use the money I save on something useful, like rolling stock Richard

I have lights on my workbench, so rolling stock and buildings should be OK. I guess that scenery is another matter Richard

In case it isn't obvious, I wanted the frames to be thin because the etch they replace was also thin. So there are two strips of NS. That's too thin to saw (but easy to shear even with domestic scissors if well chosen), so I used a couple of bits of sacrificial brass on the outsides. That brings the stack up closer to 1mm which is easy to cut with a piercing saw. Tack soldering and using bits of scrap makes a lot of things easier Richard

Right - no magnolia. I wasn't keen in the first place

That's good stuff Neil, thank you Richard

Right - only as the loco is symmetrical you want to cut two bits at the same time: This is the new frames for Cadfan being cut: This is a stack of the original frame, a bit of scrap brass, the two new frames, then another bit of scrap. All are soldered together - the original frame to the scrap completely, the rest of the stack by solder tacks at the end. When the cutting is complete, the stack comes apart If you solder two bits of 1mm plate together to get a symmetrical loco, that's 2mm you will be working with. Ideal for heavy duty drilling and filing but otherwise rather an overkill Keep that bit of 1mm for the footplate Richard

https://www.diy.com/departments/colours-standard-light-rain-matt-emulsion-paint-2-5l/183424_BQ.prd I wonder if they have 'light drizzle' or 'heavy downpour'? I could do very atmospheric slate quarries Richard

Now, a blue-ish grey could work well. It could be a good compromise I think I'd keep that level of lighting sophistication for localised areas of the railway. This room needs to work for modelling and occasional guests as well. Some interesting thoughts there Yes, this multiple purpose aspect is the challenge Good food for thought here Richard

That sounds a bit 'cold'. I did wonder about painting a band of 'sky' around the walls. Something fading from blue to grey with some soft cloud-like patterns Richard

I started out like you thinking brass was the right stuff, until I used some NS. It's much easier to get good results with the nickel silver The spec for CZ 108 is available in all kinds of places: https://www.smithmetal.com/pdf/copper-brass-bronze/brass-alloys/cz108.pdf It has good cold working properties suggesting it's going to be good for making pressings You really need to be using a range of different thicknesses for different things. Here, for instance: This is a modified Brian Madge 009 kit. The new 'frames' are 0.010" as is the cab. The cab then has an embossed wrapper made from 0.005" glued on Thin sheet is surprisingly strong yet easy to work with Richard