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roythebus1

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Everything posted by roythebus1

  1. Turn the magnet round, it'll run the other way. :)
  2. The K&ESR has recently shown pictures of the inside of the BoB boiler that they have on hire. the KESR uses reverse osmosis water treatment to increase the periods between boiler servicing. It was found the BoB was badly scaled. After a week or two of service on the KESR the water treatment was showing how effective it is. Photos are only on the members website so I can't copy them to here.
  3. Can anyone show me where the video is that shows 3 steam-hauled specials following on the block over Shap? I wanted to show it on one of the european enthusiasts sites to show them how we can run steam on the main line in the UK, one of the few things this country still seems to do well at! I think the video was done 4 years ago and I seem to remember seeing it shown on here but the internet can't seem to fin it for me.
  4. The easy way is to turn the magnet round. But if you use metal couplings, you still can't run 2 dock shunters (or most locos with metal chassis) nose to nose. That little red button will keep going ping! Think about it.
  5. I don't know, I don't recall seeing them in stock at Patricks Toys. the shop incidentally is still going today, having been in Lillie Road Fulham since about 1948! When I started rooting around the railway stock room upstair as a 13 year old, it was a bit of an Alladin's cave. Trix Twin EM1/SECR E class/GW 0-6-2T/Brittania kit/standard 4-6-0/Maerklin Warship, Hornby 3-rail; a large tinplate Triang double deck bus which Mr.Patrick let me have as it was "old stock"... I used my staff discount facility to buy Trix locobuilder kits to get AL1 kits at about £3 each..
  6. Low melt solder, low melt flux and an iron set to 180 degrees. :) I'll try glue for the others.
  7. A simple change over switch will do the job as shown int the supplier's diagram.
  8. The reason the TC series of locos go the other way is because they were manufactured that way. I remember it from way back when. As I said earlier, I had the diesel "switcher" which went the opposite way to my Jinty. when I worked in Patricks toys in Fulham in the mid 1960s all the TC locos went the opposite direction.
  9. Try using a round-edge craft knife blade for cutting cardboard, then you won't get the ragged edge effect.
  10. Yes I done that with 3 I think so far! One has been eaten by the carpet beast, never to be seen again, andother the drill went off centre, and I've got several 0,5 holes on my fingers! Maybe I should have put them on the chassis sides before I done the rest of the kit, it's difficult getting the soldering iron in there. Not to worry, I'll get there eventually. Meanwhile the remnants of my Kings Cross wooden kit has gone in the bin!
  11. The full Transport and Works Act decision is available to read on the Rother Valley Railway website. Link: http://rvrailway.blogspot.com/
  12. There's aplan on here somewhere for Rev.Awdry's track plan. Someone also helpfully put my plan for tidmouth junction on here fairly recently. That was a roundy-roundy with central terminus and a Thomas branch, all on a 10x4 I think.. featured in Railway modeller in about 1988.
  13. I have a full-size bus that carries a BS Maroon livery. the recommended undercoat for it is a mauve/blue. Crimson and maroon are very transparent colours and to echo what others have said, it does need an undercoat and a couple of top coats. It fades to a muddy brown colour after about 5 years, so don't rely on colour pictures for colour matching. when it's new it looks almost crimson. These days it looks like it's been through a pile of cow dung.
  14. I'm grdaually finding my way to finishing my BZ kit after 3 years...what put me off was the small cast bits that attach to the solebar and need a hole drilled through them to go on a pin that drops down from the end of the spring. There's 12 of them to do. Is there an easy way of doing them or should I have fitted them before assembling the rest of the chassis?
  15. The concerns were more about environmental issues such as the build up of water from the River Rother; the A21 level crossing was cleared quite a while back when it was said that the level crossing would case less hold-ups than the traffic lights a bit further up the A21. Consideration to the re-opening of the railway was also given when the Robertsbridge by-pass was built. A couple of the local land owners simply didn't want to sell. Now they don't have the choice. Have a look on the Rother Valley Railway's website.
  16. Not very is the simple answer. At Robertsbridge trackwork is almost complete as is the main line from Bodiam to Junction Road. A Network Rail train has already used the transfer siding at Robertsbridge, the turntable has been installed for visiting main line steam, materials are all in hand and ready to roll.
  17. I did wonder about primer. I recently used a can of Humbrol etch primer and despite giving it a good rattle it came out very blotchy. it took ages to get it all off again! This time I'll try one of the other brands in my air brush!
  18. https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Frvrailway.blogspot.com%2F2023%2F05%2Fthe-transport-and-works-act-rother.html%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR2QWlhvNtAKC8_Zc0goclF6tDbwwudTLj9MrjEIVOMLBPQ62ll-f55P9Kc&h=AT0shY-rlfDGgA3hsM4E0M7TBKm8T22PBJZUKhdfLok7itQiQIXY5K9bYXsG1R4ykKG_Ougmf8RWrAruzy0zcfrK9XJZxR5saykhf2-PuPCiNEeyw6wTKNj25gAuq2C7m0P2JbMohJ463XIs1gNLS6w&__tn__=%2CmH-R&c[0]=AT3gy7ykJEVDJejiDQfH0DMRu0LcM-1QtblZFu7KgaBrsgZXeV_12IX_bGYRq7jHI4JS47_qfQs7SO5vjZ2ug3wRmgGYzE4z3NhqGwtiZDQKa53L-hUQvCjpQbi1r0wnNQY_Oxayr_EgtI1ew96sKSkzax1JoEMKxz2FiF7CmJzgpcaLeIz-Tqtm
  19. When I moved in with my partner she had a box of stuff that had been given to her by someone whose brother had died. I've recently been looking through the locos, mostly Triang and later stuff, Hornby, lima and a few Mainline and Airfix bits. I've managed to get all of them working with very little attention. Maybe the most valuable bit in there is a Triang EM2 which got stripped down and cleaned, but I can for the life of me work out how the changeover switch should be wired! Also in my late friend's collection (mentioned elsewhere on here) a vintage Fleischman motor which didn't want to work. The brushes had got stuck in. a quick strip down and clean and it works, but minus something at the output ned, maybe a felt bush? Too much end float, but there's an end float adjuster at the other end of the motor. there's a couple of Maerklin bits that need a lot of investigation, I've never dealt with AC motors! Maybe the easiest in his collection was the Triang SR EMU with serrated wheels, cleaned wheels with wire brush, it runs nicely......
  20. All of which reminded me of the tragic incident in Austria maybe 20 years ago on a mountain railway. It was one of the very steep lines with the trains built at an angle. Train enters tunnel, haulage rope covered in grease catches fire after sparks from brake blocks. People in front of the fire evacuate up the stairs adjacent to the track. People at the bottom end of the train evacuate down the stairs and survive. Fire travels upwards. I don't recall seeing any news of the inquiry or report into the incident. A lot of those going upwards didn't survive.
  21. Ok, thanks, that'll save me a bit of time trying to find something that isn't there. My AG Thomas books are signed by the author as well. :)
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