Type 2

As I've said on another thread, unless manufacturers have the exact same overheads and are making the exact same model then we cannot compare pricings.

Unless manufacturers have the exact same overheads and are making the exact same model then we can't say one company is overcharging over the other. I worked for a company who made various lines, in our own factory, each 'brand' had to produce a full breakdown on each new product/re-run and effectively bid for a manufacturing slot. Maybe Bachmann are like that hence their pricing structure? We don't know so shouldn't be saying they are overcharging Can you prove that? That makes no sense. Do you move away from eating food because the price for groceries is high? No, you cut your cloth, and only buy what you can afford. The same goes with model railways. When I was young I used to ogle the latest Hornby and Lima products in the model shop, my dad couldn't afford them even back then, so I ended up with a cheap 2nd hand model, that done the exact same job. And those 2nd hand models provided me with years of entertainment. Nearly 50 years later I'm still as enthusiastic as I was. Things cost what they cost, because its what they cost. All this moaning about prices is quite embarrassing.

I'm pretty sure these chassis still have the older brass wheels on them - I hope I'm wrong though

The hobby is only as expensive as you want it to be, Bachmann's models generally don't sit about on the shelves If you think its expensive, try another hobby where you'll get a fully detailed, functional and finished model and see what change you'll have out of Bachmann pricing

They require a fairly precise 8mm rebate (rectangular at least) in the mating surface that the other clicks into, I've used them for DIY projects around the house, the are really good and hold firmly. If you have a router, machining out the rebate isn't too difficult, buy can be tricky without I've never though of using them for joining baseboards, something to think about...

I routinely replace the gears with Athearns on any Proto items I buy - only one was running freely but I replaced them anyway. I ream out to about 2.2mm which still allows a nice tight push fit. Its a very easy fix. I pick up a few packs of gears whenever I'm in the states

I think you need to go lie down in a dark room, its only a toy train. No one is forced to buy it so how is it robbery?

I believe they are all 40mm wheelbase, I think the Class 33 is the only one that is actually to scale. The Lima/Hornby Railroad 87 has 34mm wheel base, too short for your purposes. They are designed for double bogie diesels but they can be made to run very slowly and smoothly on their own. Ringfields are much harder to get to run smoothly, especially if traction tyre fitted

You will face slow speed running problems with just a powered motor bogie, they all need decent weight to give them traction to allow decent power to overcome any tightness in the drive train. The options you have that I can think of are Hornby Railroad style units as found in: Class 33 Class 42 Class 86 Class 90 and I'd imagine 91 Any of those stripped down, cleaned up and lightly oiled can run very smoothly There are also Black Beetles and Bull-Ants (if you can find them both) but again, you'll face the lack of traction issue

The worst airport experience I've had is Seattle Tacoma, arriving domestically to connect to an international flight was horrendous. Airport info map was different from the other airport info signage, and both different from the website maps, topped with extremely unhelpful staff, all the while being bombarded with loudspeaker messages saying the airport has been voted the best, most inclusive, airport in the US! I had to leave the terminal building to find my way back in to the check in desks. On speaking to the check in girl, she agreed with me that the signs are awful and the push to be inclusive has ended up very divisive in the airport, staff are afraid to help the public in case they get accused of mis-identifying them!!!!

I was in Subway recently and the girl in front of me asked for two six inch subs, the server offered a 12" (there was quite a discount on them) and she said, "no, thats too big, just give me two 6 inches" I could feel myself devolving in her presence

Insert a thin flathead screwdriver between the gear tower frame and baseplate clip, behind each wheel and twist gently, that will pop the clip, then repeat for the others (4 on each bogie) The baseplate plastic is quite flexible so you would need to be very heavy-handed to snap it

Thank you Paul, that is very helpful I'll give this a try once I finish tiling this bloomin' kitchen and let you know Thanks again

Why does it matter when things are announced? Its not going to change your life

Hi Paul I've tried to PM but it a note says you cant receive messages. Thanks for your offer of help As above I have a later release Dapol 08, and a Zimo sound chip (with your sound project on it) which was originally in an original release 08, where the lights functioned as expected - from what I can remember the later Dapol circuit boards where reconfigured to allow any 21-pin decoder to control the lights from the off. I'd like to re-map the functions to allow forward/aft/shunting lighting configurations if possible. I've an NCE Power Cab, but with no PC interface Thanks again

Hi Nick Thanks for your reply, yes its a @pauliebanger sound file - the only sound loco I have (and only O-Gauge!)

I wouldn't hold my breath for Bachmann to reduce their prices, I know the did slightly with the 66, but that was older tooling that had most probably paid for itself. Larger, more established companies have larger, historical overheads than the likes of Accurascale, Cavalex etc etc. Even in Bachmann's core market, the US, their most recent highly detailed loco's are highly priced. I must say, I like that you don't hold back on your repaints and detailing on brand new models, to me that is what modelling is all about. Too many people endlessly comment hoping that X will produce loco X in X livery rather than learn the skills to produce their own.

Hi All I have been given a BR Blue Dapol 08, one of the newer releases. I have fitted a Zimo MX644 chip that I've had sitting around for years. This is configured for the original Dapol 08 release which means the lighting functions don't work correctly. I've spent a few hours trying to find out how to do this, could someone help me with this please? The DCC equipment I have is NCE Power Cab, no PC link

I'm an average modeller and I can afford Bachmann's prices I'm pretty sure all those on the AS 37 thread that are buying multiple loco's are average modellers and can well afford Bachmann's prices This hobby is only as expensive as you want it to be Prices are what they are, no amount of moaning will do anything about it

I'd apply 2 or 3 coats of Klear (allowing each to dry thoroughly) and use a good quality decal setter to apply once the decals are in place. I use this... https://www.mr-hobby.com/en/product2/category_11/215.html Use a film of water under the decal area and push it into place over each rib making sure you get all the water squeezed out (use a cotton bud), if it gets sticky, use more water to lubricate the surface again. One thing you'll need is patience, in abundance, fixing decals over uneven surfaces is not something you can rush!

I've enjoyed following this thread, seeing the great modelling and you working towards a deadline right up to the wire, and then having fun at the exhibition It makes a refreshing change from people going on and on about a sound function on their latest loco, as if their life depended on it

This is the latest incarnation I believe (I bought mine a couple of months ago)... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Multi-Surface-Polish-Liquid-Protector/dp/B073VPRMZH?th=1 It is cloudy, but dries completely clear and more importantly flat even when brush applied I've been using Klear and its successors for the best part of 30 years, swear by it and haven't had any adverse reactions to any paints nor decals (though I haven't tried yours yet!)

I've flown Ryanair, 10 times or so and, like you, haven't experienced anything other than a professional service, based on what I've paid. In fact much better service than more expensive airlines. I don't expect bells and whistles, so I'm not disappointed when I don't get them, unlike others who just moan and complain at absolutely everything (usually at their own making) I fly Aer Lingus quite often, transatlantic, and have always had fantastic service, they do seem to go above and beyond other airlines. I took quite ill on a flight once and had to visit the bathroom quite often, they arranged a seat swap to one near the WC, and locked it out of use to other passengers so it would be available when I needed it. The flight was about half-full mind you but I still think that is amazing service. Worst I have flown with are Virgin, never again, even worse than Air France. I'd rather swim than use either again, and I can't swim!

I fully agree with you in my added bold, although I know this can take time away from other customers, and also money out the till, but I think it would be repaid by the customers buying more product. In a couple of plastic model kit shops I've been in, much like the Warhammer shop I was in, there are demo tables where you can have a go at new methods, or even the basics of gluing plastic together. A lot of people doubt their own abilities and don't want to waste money on something they might make a mess of, and that is understandable. A simple demo table with cheap old stock kits that the customer can try the basics can build a lot of confidence in someone. Maybe even charge a pound or two to access the demo tables? I was a life long user of enamel paints, tried using acrylics but always made a mess, it was a visit to a plastic kit shop when I asked when out of stock enamels would be back in stock I was invited to try out the alternative acrylics - and manufacturers - at their demo table. A little bit of guidance and trial and error gave the me the confidence to leave that shop with an armful of acrylics, plus a couple of kits that I had no intention of buying in the first place, and I've been a repeat customer ever since. I now very rarely use enamels, and my painting skills have improved dramatically. I reckon I spend less on paints now too (even though I seem to have the complete MIG Ammo range!!!) Model railway shops could use this approach - if they have the space, which I know a lot don't. Some shops are very traditional, which we all like, we like the familiar feeling when we go in, knowing what to expect each time we visit, but I do think those shops need to modernise to try and capture some of the internet only shoppers. I went a long time shopping for my model products online after most of the local shops closed down, however since I learned the new techniques I make a day of going to physical shops, even if they are some distance away, I'll arrange to meet a friend or 2 and visit together, get some lunch and have a nice day out. Sadly the nearest model railway shop I have is over 50 miles from where I stay, and they sell Hornby and Dapol only with very few bits and pieces, so I only visit if in the area.

I owned a Mk2 MX-5 a few years back, absolutely loved it A couple of things to have a look at if you havent already are the tub in front of the rear wheel arches (I can see signs of rust on the outer metal in your photos) and the chassis rails ahead of the engine. The latter can get quite frilly, quite quickly I do hope its a good 'un though, or doesn't need much, they are superb cars and I wish I still had mine!