YT-1300

I never understand the negativity whenever some new or different is tried, its all for the good of the hobby, to keep the hobby going. Surely its better to have a combined magazine than no magazine at all?

Check that the lubrication grease hasn't started to solidify in the gear towers, from worm to axle gears, if it has, strip it out (IPA is great for removing it) and re-lube. HJ motors are power hungry and the slightest stiffness in the drive train can cause an overload.

It isn't the same thing, putting money away without using an online system means that money is available instantly if needed for an emergency, it's not tied up in an online system. After all, that's what we used to do before these services became available. I'm certainly not judging anyone, my own outlook is that I don't commit to buying anything for my hobbies unless I can afford to pay for it in one lump sum, whether I chose to do that or not.

Try reducing the resolution of the images, they will help the community help you. With DCC its best for each piece of track to have it own dropper, for instance if you have 3 lengths of flexi on each road in your fiddle yard, you'll need 6 droppers for that road (both rails). Each point also needs a power feed to the toe of the point, the reason for this is because fishplates aren't reliable enough to carry the power needed. I view fishplates as a means to hold the track pieces in alignment only. DCC is often quoted as 2 wires to the track, however its more 2 wires to every piece of track! As has been mentioned, a cheap multimeter is an essential tool.

You can put money aside each month rather than relying on online systems, which gives instant access to extra money if you have an unexpected bill for essentials. If someone is put in difficult financial circumstances by an unexpected payment for a discretionary item then maybe they should be looking closely at their spending patterns. I have two items on pre-order, coming from Bowser and Athearn. When I placed the orders I made sure that I had the money available there and then, just incase payment is asked for early, If I didn't have the money, I wouldn't order.

The last company I worked for (energy industry) brought in an AI webchat service and it quickly proved a success, meaning that peoples issues were dealt with much quicker, and much more accurately, just by getting simple info from the customers. As it became more popular, it became more accurate and only the real complex problems needed human intervention. It reduced complaints to our company by a large percentage. I'm quite against AI in a lot of applications, though in this case it was an eye-opener.

This is sad news, I had a long chat with him a while back, he gave me the push to model US railroads and I've never looked back R.I.P. Ian

There's no reason to discount your PowerCab, even the most complex DCC system is perfectly suitable for running just one loco.

I would recommend building a small test layout to get used to how different materials work together (glues, track, electrics, wood, ballast, scenics, control and time) and sizes of various items of stock and structures before committing to a full loft affair. You could do this in 00 and N, or even TT120 Peco Code 75 (or 55 in N) streamline track is probably your best bet, set-track can of course be used, through you will be limited in geometry. Buying flexi track used is a good idea, though I'd avoid used point work unless you plan to modify them for extra reliability. Before laying any track, think about DC or DCC control, and how you want to control your points

All very true, I prefer the Bachmann 37 over the AS one, but overall they are both extremely fine models. I think the AS 92 is one of the best models out there (along with their A Class), and the best AS model by far. Moving back to the subject matter, if someone is building a layout where the CDA is a signature model, is it worth holding off in case a better one comes along?

A thing that amuses me is folk always jump to Accurascale making items for N, OO, TT etc etc (not singling you out @woodenhead) from my experience Cavalex, Bachmann/Farish and Revolution's items feel overall better quality. Not denigrating Accurascale in anyway, their products are extremely good, I feel the quality and finish of the others is better.

If it looks right to you, then it is right. Don't take others viewpoints as gospel, have a look at prototype and model pictures then decide for yourself. Unfortunately there are a lot of people who throw around untruths on forums just to show off. You could stock up on Peco models and Accurascale or Calalex drop their version straight away, or you don't buy any Peco and neither Accurascale or Cavalex, or anyone else produce any. Regards reselling, I personally never view anything I buy for my layouts in future value, an item might be worth £10 one day, £25 the next day and £5 the day after. It depends on who's buying, and when.

I fully accept it, personally, I feel it can detract from the great job made of the model, and indeed the layout it is on. The thread on the recent Cavalax 56 seems to have more posts regarding lights and sound than the actual fidelity of the model itself. I built my layout for me, and when I am lucky enough for it to be asked to an exhibition, I'd like people to be inspired by the subject modelled or the actual modelling, not by noise and lights. But I understand there are plenty who do like all that side of things. I find sound and lights work best when both are very muted. Just my opinion.

I understand the desire for more detailed models, prototypical variations etc, and the manufacturers are producing some extremely good models. What I don't understand is the want to dress these very fine models up like fairground rides with overly bright (and sometimes unnecessary) lighting, and sounds that would be barely audible even if you were inside the actual vehicle.

He's a Caledonian Railway modeller, kit or scratch-builds all his stock but has said he'll never touch an MTK kit again!

Great work!!! My friend describes attempting to build MTK kits the model railway equivalent of self-harm!

I operate from the front so prefer no barriers, I find, like you, that people seem to keep a distance

Current generation of a@@eholes?

I have a lot of loco's and don't have deep pockets!

Taking your points in turn... 1. For a good finish its always better to at the very least remove the existing printing and flatten down the existing paintwork, most sensible thing to do is to strip the bodyshells back to raw plastic. 2. A primer is always recommended to allow the base coats to stick. Halfords/Hycote primers are acrylic and very very good. 3. There is nothing to stop you painting over the existing finish, however any printing will show through the new paint 4. British Railways green opens up a can of worms! IPA/Original Dettol/LA's Totally Awesome are all great paint strippers, and reusable. Its important that the shells are dust and grease free, and kept that way through the painting and finishing process. A good primer for BR Green is black, it gives a nice rich finish. The main thing you will need is patience!

Kader made a profit last year on its earnings...

My NHS Dentist Surgery shut down and re-opened as a private surgery, reasons given was down to the amount of abuse they were getting from some patients. I decided to stay with them as I've had nothing but great service from them. My last appointment was a check up, replace a filling and a clean. Cost me £150, generally a check up and a clean is £60 every 6 months. Its funny that some people would happily shell out £200+ on a model loco but baulk at the same cost for treatment to end pain.

Cracking looking layout, really nice scenics and detailing. Will be good to see it with some stock on it

Not wishing to stir up a hornets nest, I find Bachmann's newer tooled products to be a higher quality than Accurascale, so to me they are worth their asking price.

I know a few people like that...