FoxUnpopuli

The Mars lists the build chamber dimensions as 120 x 68 x 155 - so you can do a 4mm loco in one hit, but only a small one. You'll be looking to 'construct' the loco in chunks for anything bigger. If you're a 2mm/N modeller - you're on a winner! There are bigger printers, but the usual trade off is size for resolution. The Mars has a 47micron / 0.047mm X/Y resolution. The Phrozen Shuffle XL, for example, has a tank size of 190 x 120 x 200, but a resolution of 85 microns. I'll be choosing the smaller unit because while you can assemble smaller parts to make a large, high-resolution model, you can't practically make a large lower-resolution model 'finer'. Somewhere at the bottom of this (rather messy) webpage is a list of printers with tank sizes and resolutions. You'll also see larger printers with fine resolution, then you'll cough up your Earl Grey at the price. https://all3dp.com/1/best-resin-dlp-sla-3d-printer-kit-stereolithography/ (Or, you know, what Mark said. But I'm Mark. Did I double post from two different accounts? Are these two Marks a gestalt entity? Or is he Mark Juan, and I'm Mark too? All this and more in next week's exciting show.)

I would have said some tall trees behind the green with respect to the tee direction - to both punish the big hitters and potect anything on the other side! Green looks great.

Earliest movie I can think of with golfists is 'Goldfinger'.

Hello @Ark Royal, I model in OO. These centres are 'caps' which fit over the metal Bachmann wheel. I have received the items today, they need cleaning up fully, but popped one in the wheel upsidedown - it's a perfect fit. I'm very pleased. They have some shape in them, they should be a very snug fit over the wheel, and i will dab them in with a spot of cyano gel, or maybe epoxy.

Very nicely done. A friend is making my first roughly sliced model (a set of wheel centres for Bachmann B1/V2 driving wheels) tonight in his Formlabs printer, the outcome of which will drive the decision to buy an Elegoo Mars. These are inspirational ideas - carry on!

Bachmann 32-178A early LMS and 32-176 early BR Crab - basically half RRP at £74.50 at Rails of Sheffield. I think that's a bargain, as they are a really nice model - and prototypically, pretty heavy duty haulers. I need to renumber mine to 'late LMS' numbering, which will take a deep breath or two...

Deleted, didn't check all the numbers

Everyone seen this? For a review and to see one in action, go see 'Budget Model Railways' on Youtube. https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/0-4-0_complete_chassis_assembly_-_black_wheels.html

Try sticking a paper/card/tape 'loop' or 'hook' on the back of the substrate, and using that to attach it to the board. You could slot the board and pull it loop through, or simply drape the loop over the back of the board and tape ito the back of the board. Velcro might be a bit aggressive, but you just need the knack of parting Velcro without pulling - inserting a credit card works for me. Or... You could nail them up with track pins.

1911AD, that would be 22BB (Before Beck.)

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I spy an 8F chassis. Both the Bulleid 2-8-2s look great, well done @Corbs & @Gibbo675. I'm liking Corbs' version *a lot*. I have yet to start buying Southern stock, and will definitely be seeking advice for it as I know next to nothing about the whole network... but I already want one of these (39901 as above). In my alternate universe, if a channel crossing Ro-Ro-Rail ferry would have been a thing, this would have have been an overnighter permitted motor-freight from Longbridge via Cowley, down to London on GW lines onto Abercrombie's 'freight loop', using the Blackfriars bridge to get to New Waterloo. Couple of motor-carriage dropoffs, and pickup Europe-bound parcels before heading out to Dover for the RoRoRa... maybe splitting the train there with help from a Q1 for the ferry and then out to France. Awesome. Imagine a set of streamlined double decker bogie motor transports with Bulleid-like panelling to match the loco!

OK, I got the number wrong, but you get my point, right? And we all strive (and in many cases attain) some beautiful models, and this cursed OO occasionally spoils the view. I can see past it and play trains, but sometimes I just look and the missing 7" seems really obvious - and it's something that could be easily fixed 'nowadays'.

I personally think that if I have to pay £230 for something, it should be a scale model - by which I mean, P4. it's about time the RTRs went balls-to-the-wall and made some finescale chassis to really suit all this new-fandangled top-hat tooling. If an RTR supplier supported 18.83mm gauge, (or even EM) I'd jump ship from OO and buy everything they made. Of course, I'm on the path to making my own stock now, because the range is broader and I get to finish it how I want, but I'm wincing at the limitations I'm putting on my models by having that at a woefully inaccurate gauge. I have the space to have one metre minimum radii, so I'm seriously thinking about it. Nothing stopping Hornby's Railroad range being OO... they already have their ranges split, they just haven't made the next leap. Hornby and Bachmann are supposed to be leaders, they should lead. I wonder if Oxford Rail are considering this kind of idea? [/controversial]

In absence of these: Perhaps something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/32-Inch-Portable-Translucent-Collapsible-Reflector/dp/B002ZIVKAE?ref_=s9_apbd_otopr_hd_bw_bMTrcd&pf_rd_r=K26ZNR3G0XAYKMBKMSN9&pf_rd_p=25ff2c88-9223-5434-8c53-2d11a0b861e8&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=332197031

Crikey, that's steep.

Opportunity. Maybe the siding existed before the building. Changes in the ballast colouration of the relaid track and evidence of the old ballast left around the building?

Aha! This explains why your trackplans look so darned good. I was wondering how you had so much patience with AnyTrack's graphics (vel al) and this is the answer - you don't!

Tilt-shift lenses are used tilted, seemingly commonly (and thus often badly), to make real landscapes look like miniature models by deliberately foreshorting the focal length of the shot. Diorama effect, I think it is named, amongst other things. Less well known is their use by landscape photographers to do the reverse, to get wideangle shots with all of the landscape in focus. I'm not going explain how the tilt function works here, you'll have to do a bit of Googling if you're interested. That said, the shift function is also interesting, it can let you do very odd things, like take a photograph of yourself in a mirror with no camera in sight. Effectively, it automatically does what @Dunsignalling suggested a few posts ago - it drastically crops the image. The difference here is that it's selecting the area of the lens which is being directed onto the sensor - so you don't lose resolution. The fact it can do this at all is why T/S lenses are horrendiusly expensive there's some big pieces of very high quality glass in there. I believe a combination of tilting and focal stacking could get you even closer to that 'real' photo of a model, and the use of the shift might allow you to place the point-of-view lower, giving the illusion of putting the camera at a scale 5ft high even in the practically 'too high' locations we are forced to shoot from. This option is only open to DSLR users, and even then, to follow-up on this myself, I think I'd rent 2 lenses (say a 24mm and a 90mm) and run through a series of experiments to confirm the theory and see what really worked. Just some more discussion ideas for now, unfortunately for me.

Agreed, it's a good looking model - well done & keep going!

Or just black-and-white with a bit of aging/grain...

It looks like a closed box with no venting. As the print builds, it tries to create a vacuum inside the box - hence both the distortion and the collapse. Imagine the print building, and give the print a couple of vent holes... I would say in the base/underside, in the corner closest to you in the photo above with the red ring.

My ringfield units were fine (if noisy) but they were labouring after nigh on 20 years in storage. I removed the assembly from the chassis, then levered the wheels off one side and removed the remaining wheels on the axles from the axle tubes. I then used a jewellers screwdriver, some kitchen towel and some IPA to clean out the axle tubes. With the wheels off it's easy to remove the geartrain, which was thoroughly cleaned with IPA and replaced with a little oil on all the friction points. I relubed the axles with oil and reassembled, using a back to back gauge, and ensured the gear train meshed in the plane of the gearfaces. You might as well clean all the conducting faces of the loco-tender joint, and those from the pickups to the wheels on the loco - just in case there's a bit of added resistance in there. They (2 black fives, a Duchess and a Compound) run a little less hesitantly now... still bloody noisy though!

If the buffers are too high, definitely worth dropping a little - will bring the footplate closer to the cylinders too. I think the photoshop looks pretty neat. I do agree the wheels look a little small, but for a cheap quick 'bash' I think it's fine as is - a tough little wagon shunter. Spending the money and increasing the wheel size might let it huff some coaches around.