97406

Shawplan windscreens and backplates fitted to the eponymous 97406

I've finally managed to get the backplate and screens installed satisfactorily on a loco. In a nutshell: The Bachmann moulded glazing bars were removed and I filed out the aperture in readiness for the etch to be overlaid. It is important to leave a small lip on the top of the bonnet. I cut the bottom part of the backplate off and the 2 thin glazing bar backings to create an inverted ‘U’ shape. I assembled the screen and backplate flat and soldered around the sides and the top (this is easier done from the front using a flux first, and letting the solder get drawn in by capilliary action). Don’t worry about getting solder all over it as the next step remedies this.. I removed excess solder with some desoldering braid, then sanded with 600 and 1000 grit wet and dry and primed the assembly to identify and remove any imperfections. It took a few goes (and the odd bit of filler on some) to get it right. I then inverted the screens on a flat surface and folded them using downward pressure with a craft knife blade using the etched guide in the backplate and the windscreen dividing bars as a guide. The screens can now be overlaid over the cab front and the aperture in the cab front filed out so there is room for the glazing to be fitted from behind at the end of the process I glued the assembly over the front of the cab I then used superglue and activator all around the screens applied with a thin wire. This makes the superglue act as a filler and the method is very precise with a little practice. It took 2 applications. I rubbed down the superglue fillets and painted Finally the wipers were refitted and the Laserglaze sanded and filed until the windows fitted as flushly as possible. They were stuck in using gloss acrylic varnish.

“East Midland Strains”, to bring things up to date.

Well, I have been experimenting with a set of Shawplan screens with the backplate, and the Bachmann 37 screens are noticably shallower than the retooled 40. The outer windows of the retooled 40 are ever-so-slightly wide of the mark too, but not by much. The 40 to the right in the pic is a Frankenstein’s monster, mainly Lima, but with Bachmann 37 cabs, and the screens are definitely shallower. It will be getting the Shawplan screens with the backing plate (currently on order from Brian). Using a spare body and a set that I had in, I found the best way for me is to cut the lower part of the backing plate off and solder the screens to said plate and sit the whole assembly on the top of the bonnet (the existing moulded bars will be removed and the aperture widened). I’ll glue and fill using Superglue and activator a la Barrowmore’s class 40s. Will post a pic when done, and there’s a chance that the Bachmann retools may get done too.

A full yellow end can make the shade of blue look different to the same shade of blue with a small yellow warning panel. I for one do like the early BR blue liveries with the small panels. Especially the few Hymeks and Westerns that were turned out in that style. A shame in a way that the style didn’t get adopted as standard, my nostalgia for the standard Banger Blue livery notwithstanding.

I went to primary school in from 1974 and we were taught metric. However my parents used imperial, so I was well versed in both sets of units. I now cherrypick the measurement system for different things, so I visualise distance in miles, but elevation better in metres. Cyclists and runners that measure distances in km are just cheating and making it seem like they’ve gone further (). I’ve made stuff using a combination of mm and inches before, as it’s easier to measure a whole number of inches for some dimensions. ETA the point I was going to make…. As far as I remember bridge height road signs were alway in ft and inches, and gradient signs were ratios when I were a lad.

For me, the general guide when it used to come to thrash involved larger English Electrics and smaller Sulzers. I was lucky to witness plenty of 40s and 25s when I was a kid, so that may have influenced that view. Not that I dislike 47s. A nice piece of design, even though the banger blue ones used to make me groan when they turned up at the time!

A better pic of the buckets. Shawplan in the middle. What I think looks better with your work in progress is the backing plate. Also Bachmann provided an indication of the rubber grommets on the glazing itself, which makes the windows a touch too small. I have since acquired a set of Shawplan screens with backing plates, along with bits of Lima 40 and a spare Bachmann 37 body (better cab and nose shape than the Lima 40), so they will all get assembled at some point. The other 40s and 37s look close enough to me for now at least!

I was going to do all my 37s and 40s, but just stuck to doing the older 40s after overlaying a set of Shawplan etches on my Bachmann 40143 (was 40142). The match was very close shape wise, and the glazing arguably more flush on the Bachmann windscreens than was practical with the Shawplan etch. The earlier Bachmann 40s are out by some degree so got Shawplan etches, and Lima bodies (D200, the centre headcode 40160 in this pic). Here’s a Vitrains 37 with Shawplan windscreens, though I was unaware of the backing plates at the time I did this (and my 40s). I got some better horns and weathered it after this pic was taken. Look forward to seeing how your 37 turns out. Excuse the edits, I was having fun trying to post off my iPad, so went up and finished things off on the big computer upstairs.

To be fair, the latest Bachmann 37 and 40’s front windscreen compares very well to the Shawplan etch. However the Accurascale 37 has the grommets and the subtle recess around the windscreens, so it is the next level and I have one on order (and paid for), so it will be a nice treat when it comes. I went for the Large Logo splitbox one.

They’re great. The 37 benefits from the Shawplan windscreens and the 47 for its time was brilliant, though the glazing is very prismatic. All great fun to rectify if you have the time and inclination, though.

Just wait until you see the contents of my sweet trolley. Especially after the cancelled preorder for 47435.

Working fans, louvres, sweet trollies, holographic drivers, are right at the bottom of my list of ‘must haves’. All I want is something that looks accurate when put on the layout, or on the mantlepiece by my favorite armchair. Even when viewed from close quarters, which the new 37 looks to do with considerable finesse. The new Bachmann 47 looks great, but the cost is too high, and I ended up getting 2 Vitrains ones with a hundred quid to spare. I’ll spend a little more on detailing, Lazerglaze and paint and there’s 2 locos that look very close to the real thing.

I think it’s a case of wait and see. Other than the moulded cables and the cab gutters on the sample, it will be a great model, and the 2 small issues can be rectified in a relatively short time if I feel they need to when I have two of them sat in front of me.

No, to clarify, I meant across the front end, with a vertical line of symmetry up the centre of the front of the unit. The windows look like squares tilted up at a slight angle, but the eyes play tricks.

I have a long term project for a 304 using Replica suburbans. I've managed to get the DC kits front end's windscreens symmetrical, but they're a little too big now. I'll have a rethink for the other end, and retrofit this one at some point. Still, it looks like a 304. An RTR version would be great.

The problem with working on other people’s models like that is that I wouldn’t want to give them back! Some great work there.

Ebay’s a good place. I don’t have any, but the Lima 47 looks a good one to fettle your skills on. The noses and cab windows need a little work, but a good cheap model can result.

I used to detail and repaint models as a kid, and came back into the fold last year in my early fifties. So in a way I picked up where I left off. I really fancied the new Bachmann 47, but it’s expensive and even I feel a bit loathed to even just weather it. I ended up getting both of the 2 ViTrains 47s off Ebay, total cost £140. They will look just as good as the Bachmann one, just without all the bells, whistles and gimmicks. You get a lot of old blokes in sheds fettling lawnmower engines, or whatever. A lot of us are just the same but with model locos. But one should do what one’s happy with. The great thing about the hobby these days is you can get top quality models straight out of the box without all the effort. And I do have a fair few of those as well.

Well, I’ve just snapped up the £75 Vitrains 47 off Ebay and it will end up as this (after it had been repaired of course). https://www.railexpress.co.uk/1986/fate-or-coincidence/ The loco, 47299 has an interesting story, and I will be attempting the orange lines. Typically a detail/respray happens over 4-6 weeks in spare time when I’m working, though the Railfreight class 20 that I recently posted on my thread was done over 2 weeks’ leave.

Echoed. My first forays back into the hobby last year were a couple of 86s, one executive, one blue. The former took a couple of attempts, but is passable. The second one got better. Now I do a fresh loco every couple of months, and they get better each time. I do buy the modern RTR locos, but most of my fleet has been modified and resprayed in some way. Gradually I switched to enamel paints from acrylics as confidence grew. Narrow orange stripes are still a challenge. I have been pondering the new Bachmann class 47, but then there are currently 2 ViTrains 47s on ebay, both needing work. One £65 and one £75. The potential for 2 high spec models with money to spare. But, there has been a decline in the number of people working on locos as the fancier models are made available. When I was a kid, there were many detailing packs and accessories available from the likes of Craftsman, A1 and the like. Now you have the excellent Shawplan, but not many other suppliers. Things like RCH jumpers are a rare beast to get hold of for instance, But there are ways around that with a little patience and a few cock ups along the way.

If that’s the case the I can save a few quid and go for the cheaper one. There’s no real need for me to go full DCC at this stage.

Delivery window looking like November - December so I think I can treat myself to the sound fitted blue’un for my 53rd birthday and Christmas combined, and I have started saving. An important question - Will the DCC sound fitted one have problems with a high frequency track cleaner on my DC setup? Will it go ‘bang’? I don’t want to ruin a new and expensive loco.