chris p bacon

. in this case the wish to get it completed and on time for minimal cost clouded my judgement.

Going slightly Off Topic.

Whilst it isn't true in all cases the bold part can cause you untold problems in any build where corners can be cut. I do think that with many things we have an unrealistic expectation of costs and how they can be reduced to near zero.

As an example I don't do many jobs for Joe public nowadays as I have enough to do with the new builds or conversions, but last week I was asked if I would help out a friend taking down a wall so he could get the dustiest/worst part down in one day. While there the homeowner asked if I was interested in quoting for some other work, I declined but they asked if I could give them a guide price so they could use it for comparison. After a bit of discussion it soon became clear that the amount they wanted to pay was less than the cost of materials required, this was explained to them but they were still of the opinion that they could get it for much less than I had suggested. I said 'good luck' and left it to them.

You can obviously get shafted the other way and pay way over the odds, around here that applies to driveways, tree trimming & upvc fascia etc.

 I'm sure that this subject will have been covered by an article in one of the magazines.  beginning with 'H' 

Hello ?

Ahh,

 

I've being looking at these multi foil insulation systems for my loft, and they say to use a batten between the foil and plasterboard for the same reason!

 

I assume you use an insulated board for cold bridging, or with you using a vapour barrier, can you do away with them?

 

When insulating a timber frame house, I had to use mineral wool,vapour barrier, then plaster board straight on top, the architect didn't specify a gap, hence my question.

 

 

The vapour barrier is performing the same task.

Out of interest, why the need for air gap in between the insulation and plasterboard?

 

I've not come across this, as I've always had to seal the insulation either with foil tape, or overboard with foil/insulation backed boards.

 

 

Partly to avoid condensation but also still air is the best insulator of all.

Chris if the garage is an older one and has no damp course, what is the procedure ? 

. You could get a dpc injected into the brickwork, but I doubt it's necessary unless your walls are wet in the bottom couple of feet.

You don't see many injected DPC's now but it is possible to still get it done.

Something we've done before is to chase out a joint all the way around a building (1M at a time) and install a plastic membrane then grout with a very strong liquid cement, A bit over the top for a garage but shows nothing is impossible .

Our friend Gostude on eBay has Lawrence/Goddard, Rocar and others, coaches currently on sale.

You should see what he's attempting to charge!

 

Mike.

They've been on there for years, although no doubt he just needs to make one sale to recoup his outlay. 

After reading Peter's post I ought to clarify mine. (late night posting)

A single skin (brick) wall doesn't need polythene on the inside as a DPC, any stud wall would need a breathable membrane though such as Tyvek. Working from outside in it would be 

Brick, air gap, Tyvek, Board (Sterling) stud work filled with insulation, Vapour barrier, battens for air gap, plasterboard.

I have a pool room which is built in this way and apart from extra insulation over the stud work there is no issue with condensation.

I'm planning a basic conversion of my detached garage into a railway room, the garage is brick built with a titled slight sloped roof and has a concrete floor my neighbour has theirs next door.

 

My plan is to remove the metal up and over door, and replace it with a proper brick wall complete with secure door and small window to one side.

 

 I was thinking that coating the walls with a damp proof lay of plastic batoned to the wall and floor covered with sheets of chipboard for the floor and thick ply for the walls - with some kind of insulation underneath between the wood and plastic.

 

For the ceiling I was planning on similar process with a false ceiling lower than the roof with isolation on top.

 

Bacially the end picture is a wood lined room ready to accept a U shaped base board/ around three of the four walls.

 

It would have a professionally installed electric feed from the house installed to.

 

Picking up on a couple of points.

You don't need a damp proof membrane to the walls, they should be protected from below by a damp proof course already.

Any internal finishes should ideally be plasterboard as this will give protection from fire.

You will need to check the garage floor as garage concrete floors will(or should) slope down to the doorway, any replacement floor should take this into account.

The walls, floor and roof need insulation, as much as can be put in (allowing for ventilation).

But most importantly as bgman intimated, you need to run this past planning and the local building control, they are there to help you.

I run a string line from one side to the other so they're all in line.....just saying...

When I cut UPVC I tend to 'rotate*' the hole cutter as it's cutting so that it makes the disc inside the core cutter a looser fit.

Depends how much slack you've got between the cutter hole and vent.

* or wiggle it about.

Alternately you could tell them to man up and get over it.

That was the support offered after clearing 3 suicides when I was in my late teens/early twenties.

I understand those concerned had issues which had obviously become all consuming for them, but all I thought was 'Selfish B******s' and thirty years on still have some sleepless nights.

It is difficult to criticise the dead, but it's those left behind that need help.

If someone farts in the forest and there is no one there to hear it, will it make a sound?

The one I'm reminded of is.

If a fat person falls over in the forest, do the trees laugh ?

Drill a hole at each end and then join them up with a Stanley knife against a metal edge, it'll take a few minutes but won't rag the edge like a jigsaw does,  and if you're inside you won't get dust as you would from a router.

If you're not used to using a multi tool it wouldn't be suitable as you'd find it bounces everywhere except where you want.

If you don't pay with PayPal then you lose all the buyer protection that it provides, ie if the item does not arrive or is faulty.  That's why Ebay say sellers must accept PayPal. I don't understand why the seller has 41000 feedback and 100% positive if he doesn't take PayPal.

Something I've seen called 'buyers premium',  item arrives fine but buyer says its faulty and asks for part refund, PayPal automatically freezes payment. I've had a it a few times and asked for the item back and offered to send a returns label. Strangely the buyer then says theiy're happy with it anyway.

Ebay and Paypal were the same company so you had to use PP for purchase so they got 2 bites at the cherry. They separated a couple of years ago and the link to PP is harder for them to enforce. I ask for cash on items to be picked up and have returned payments made by PP without issue.

You are not the first to say that !!.

Well it is in 4 threads across 2 forums,  I was getting the feeling it was 'Groundhog Day' clicking on topics. 

 Thanks for sharing your G1 chassis on Shapeways, I ordered one the other day, looking at scratch-building a G1 with a rake of D3D coaches.

Did you just order the Chassis or either of the G1 bodies ?

I've built one and it runs a treat.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57208-sandy-gn-lnwr-or-bre/page-13

Starts around page 13  for a couple of pages. Let me know if you need anything.

Send a letter ?

I agree with all of that Martin, except the bit about DCC adding further complication. Any of the fault finding activities you describe could apply equally to a DC system, with "digital links" being replaced by "wiring" for example.

 

I believe that the public certainly should NOT see us "warts and all". When we display a layout at an exhibition we are in effect putting on a theatrical show, which people have paid to see. They deserve to watch, and we are obliged to present, as faultless a production as possible. Would you expect to pay to go to the theatre, a concert or an opera that had been under-rehearsed? No, nor would I.

Faults are not restricted to one type of control system.

The club layouts are pure DC, before attending a show they're put up and tested extensively and given a full and deep clean (and stock). In the morning of shows they are again cleaned and yet as the day progresses they start to exhibit minor issues and almost always come back with faults. These are caused by either dirt/muck building up on the many polarity switches under the baseboards or when springs from the same switches fire off into the great unknown.

We have joked with the stock owners that as the only faults we have are with section and polarity switches,  the way to overcome these is to make the whole layout live and DCC.

Regarding what the public expect. The clubs philosophy is that we are there to entertain, although we all enjoy the outings they are not a 'club junket' and the paying public come first.

Hello everyone,

 

Heres some photos of my D16/3 built from a Mallard models kit using the chassis as designed.

 

The driving wheels are in a separate chassis to the mainframes the pivots within them.

 

This is demonstrated by the screw driver, note the bogie has no up and down movement what so ever and its sideways movement is controlled by a large piece of rod.

 

I have cheated, in that by getting it out, I have added the screw couplings, cleaned as much weathering off as possible and given a coat of Humbrol clear which needs rubbing down and another coat added as I felt it should depict when in a special and to make those brass framing's stand out more, part of the reason for liking these locos. All this done on Friday and photographed earlier.

 

Many thanks Robert, that is very helpful and makes it a lot clearer to me.

Out of interest what motor/gearbox combo did you use? I think my notes had a Mashima 14?? with a simple roadrunner which looks similar to yours.

According to Larry, anything other than building models is “collecting”. I can only assume that he collects track.

 

But then again, he appears to have deleted the post I was responding to but hadn’t quoted.

Rather a poor show, that.

Always quote Larry's posts, the deletions and edits make a mess of threads sometimes.

This thread immediately brought to mind this.

The people outraged at video games today may well have played at ethnically cleansing Native Americans when they were children...

Oh no, it was Commando's.

One brought a penknife into school and during break proceeded to stab me in the back with it when I lost some task or was the enemy. He said they did it in the films but they carried on fighting. I on the other hand walked up to a teacher with a knife sticking out of my back saying something like ......Miss....Miss....it hurts....

Needless to say Mum was not pleased.....I reckon she'd only just got over that when I chopped the end off my finger swinging on the school gate.

Brilliant! That's just the sort of info I am looking for. I will change the reference to milk tanks. So are the Clayliner tanks for some sort of liquid clay? (Pardon my ignorance!)

 

Cheers

Trevor

Liquid China Clay is used in the printing process hence the service to Sittingbourne where there was a large paper mill.

Excellent pictures.  

Its been shown time and time again that video games dont cause normal people to act out the actions in the games, however if someone is particularly off mentally, no amount of anything is going to stop or start any sort of trouble. Humans have always been voilent, horrible creatures, but video games can possibly offer an outlet to those who may find themselves drawn to those kinds of things.

A healthy level of disconnect between virtual and real life is very necessary.

The trouble I find with this reasoning is that children are still learning and games such as this blur the boundaries.

About 15 years ago I was fitting a kitchen and 2 boys were playing a game of some sort which involved kick boxing. When the mother made them turn it off as they were getting loud one of the 2 boys ran at the other and tried a flying kick to his head, he didn't manage the height so ended up kicking him in the chest this pushed him backwards into a wall/display cabinet with a bit of force that knackered one of the doors. The Boy then got upset as he'd hurt his brother,  he had no idea that the result of the violence he'd seen would hurt someone as in the game they just get back up again and carry on.

I'm not good with kids ages but they were between 9-11 (ish)

Reet,

 

Blackgill all packed up and travelling to Hartlepool Exhibition.

 

Most important, travelling companions polished and ready for anything.

 

Buets.jpg

 

Let's rock & roll!  (After I've had my afternoon nap.)

 

P

Rubs bleary eyes and yawns. (Nap recovery)

 

I'll be stamping on the bulllhead very lightly. Don't want to risk puncturing my Airwair.

 

P

Only 20 hole....what do you use them for then.......ballet ?

30's the minimum.

Rail Head treatment train I think. (RHTT)

It is leaf fall season.