The Fatadder

That centenary is being done as well, (again as a might have been in gw livery).

just need to get some new sides for my airfix model...

My fianc

Very clear conversion

Thinking after reading that the chances of me buying one just went up...

Right, just done the rest of the drilling (finally), there are 2 holes which match directly the top of the front and rear brackets that support the footplate / cab. which are going to be fun to solder

Nick, quick question, at what point do you solder on the csb brackets?

Pretty much my thoughts,

though it does mean that one of the holes needs to be drilled on the edge of the etch / half etch area that is cut away for the Bachmann model (and left in place on the mainline / replica)

Thanks

Now realise where I am misreading the drawing

Will just modify the bracket accordingly

It is the 19.5 from centre line hole which clashes directly with the spacer.  (the gearbox locater one)  19.5 on the HL jig is bang in the middle of it.

What effect would switching to option one on the CLAG site make (13.5 ^ 16.5 ^ 17.5 ^ 10)?

Would be nice if future High Level releases came with half etched holes for the csb mounts, though thinking about it unless they do a 45xx chassis, there arnt any other locos they are likely to make which will be of use...

She barely wanted to get out of bed this morning so I got a lie in!

Yes, very interesting read

This is the Mallard kit, which I understand went into the Blacksmith and now Coopercraft range.

At the moment it is in much the same state as above as it has taken me until today to buy the brass L to finish fabricating the underframe (my ebayed kit  didn't have enough)

Once that is soldered on I can start gluing on the rest of the components (the etched end steps were rubbish and will be replaced, then it needs door details and the roof gluing on. 

Looking at it, I think the model is currently sitting in about 4th place in the queue at the moment, so hopefully if my current pace continues I will get to it soon...

Fingers crossed...

Sort of,

I have removed the damaged part.  Scanned it to get an outline, which I now need to draw in CAD before getting the etches.

The actual model has come on very nicely, with the new frames fitted and the wheelsets made up.  The problem is the amount of slop either side of the chassis (given I have removed the boss off the back of the wheel so that I can use my back to back on it accurately)

I have ordered some 1/8th ID washers that I will pick up from Eilieens at the weekend which will let me finish the conversion off.  Then I just need to get the etch fitted.....

I forgot to add, due to laziness in all these photos the rear axle is not in its horn guide as it was taking me too long to get it properly fitted for the photo!

How long after blackening go you recommend this?

I will have a look at sorting 5813s smoke box door, and will look out for the cove part when I do a 14xx

Got half the 38xx rods separated this morning, but have forgot to order the Gibson washers to reduce down the Hornby holes, in future I will definitely switch to painting wheels!

I will see what I can do there, unfortunately the cab roof is the only way in to fit the back head post painting and to paint the inside.

However looking at the photos it does look like I have quickly placed the roof on, so hopefully with a bit of care a better fit can be got

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One area I should have mentioned is the blackening, which is horrible. The effect isn't great and the wheels are now covered in powdery rubbish that's taking a lot of effort to shift. Wish I hadn't bothered

All sorted now,

Thanks for the explanation, had never really thought about how the brakes work but now you mention it, it makes a lot of sense

Blast

That's what you get for drinking and modelling...

Which is wrong, lms or lner?

Will get it carved off in the morning and correct!

Looking forward to seeing it in the summer, those cobbles look brilliant!

I have the 2mm pins, (useful for tender building?)

For the time being at least all the locos needed for the layout plan have 3 driven axles. The only possible thing will be if I am tempted to buy a 28xx or 72xx and decide to re chassis...

So 3 axles worth should certainly be adequate for my needs for the time being.

Interested to hear you say that, as it matches up with my impression of of the jig, the main thing I wanted it for was the pegs

Like the idea with 4mm bolts, will definitely add that to the list along with the Tufnol. I think as you say a ruler and engineers square should sort the rest...

Interested in applying csbs to mine (and my 2251 when I come to build the chassis)

Will be interested to hear how you get on as the pannier will be my first attempt at csbs

Chassis is going to be from High Level

Fantastic news,

Really wanted a riveted one, so will get some archers rivet transfers

On the mainline model there is a circular raised area around the bolt which is only accurate for one loco in preservation (a repair job post preservation)

The actual bolt has been left alone