The Fatadder

Hope someone (preferably other than Phoenix) does take on the range, I think I may have to get a bulldog to add to the kit store just in case....

Picked mine up today, Got it to the car and checked it out, serious bending to the footplate, along with the smokebox dart broken off in the box. So straight back into the shop, and swapped it for a second one. the footplate is pretty much straight, and all separately fitted details are all present and correct. The only damage is that one buffer (front) is glued solid and the fall plate was glued at the wrong angle. The latter was easy to fix, while the former doesn't really matter. Seems that Hornbys QC issues are as bad as ever, despite the significant price rise over Tintagnal Castle.... Now to get to renumbering as Nunney Castle, Just have to decide what is going to look better. my attempt at relining the splasher or putting up with an incorrect "Castle Class" plate below the name...

Really hope that I get a call from model railways direct that mine is in and I can pop over to Portishead on Friday... Not looking forward to lining out the splasher on the replacement Nunny Castle plates I have waiting to go on it. Hopefully a castle will find its way onto Brassmasters easichas range soon......

Sounds great, will be a hard one to resist even if it doesn't really fit the layout. Has there been any consideration of making the tooling capable of producing the earlier saddle tank version of the 1392 class on which the 1361 was based? I think I am right in saying that other than having an open cab, they were very similar in design. If Kernow end up selling the unpowered test shots at the sw members day in the way they have with the well tanks / westerns I will have to get one to convert as I have wanted a model of 1398 (Sharpness Docks) for a while

try a different brouser. I had the same problem using internet explorer, but switching to chrome it worked fine

Looking a good start, the curves and changes in height look rather good. (and I agree, Moonraker was definitely Flemming's finest, such a shame the film was so completely awful)

Good man Knew you would see sense!

I tried as well with no luck... There are also a whole load of useful etched break bits for doc brakes which hopefully someone will take on....

Hopefully at the very least someone will take on their detailing bits like the 14xx pack...

Dam that is tempting... Glad there is a fair bit of time to save up.

Great news re high level, Any idea which of the 3 numbers quoted by Kernow Models is the gw liveried release, with a chassis in development I think I will certainly be pre ordering for the 54xx I require...

Where do you get them from?

The standard factory settings will have dc mode enabled, so it should be a case of out it on the track and run it

Gibson are also listing wheels for the Earl now, Which reminds me to get on and order some tomorrow... They also have a conversion guide in the How To section

Generally pretty cheap on eBay though, iirc mine was only about £15 Goes together nicely, though the roof was a bit of a swine!

Perfect thanks, I think I understand now. Hopefully will find some time soon and fit them

I would definitely go down that route as the replacement separate break leavers make a huge difference. For v hangers mainly trains do a couple of useful etches for break bits, as do masokits

While I haven't removed the axleboxes from the ratio kit and used them on the wagon you plan to, I have done similar. Having built a fair few Ratio kits, always using replacement sprung w irons. I regularly end up cutting the axlebox/spring/wiron from the solbar and then carefully cut and file to remove the moulded w iron. The back is then opened up to clear the bearing slot and glued into place on the Bill Bedford W iron etch once fitted to the wagon and test ran. I'd suggest (if not already planning to do so) you replace the Airfix chassis with Parkside solbars and on both the 10ft and clay hood use replacement etched w irons, then you will have no problem at all re using the roller bearings.

What's the strength like afterwards? I've always been a bit worried with cutting mazac castings, with the fear of the sort of corrision (and expansion) that can occurs with the material. Keep thinking about chopping out the center infill of the running plate on my rechassised 45xx.

Possibly, though not sure where they would go It was on the bogie etch, unfortunately the instructions seem to have a mistake as part 3 refers to the break yokes.

More progress, the second bogie has been finished off. Along with fitting some scratch built bogie steps. I have also made a start on the underframe, fitting the brackets to one side along with the vac cylinder I ended up gluing the nut a nut to the chassis floor, into which the bogies were bolted. Finally an area I am unsure on First what are these Secondly, how do the break assemblies fit to the bogie? I can't work out the fixing point Edit: one other thing I ought to add, the centre of the roof has once again bowed down. Repairs will be needed...

Some good track plans there, looking forward to seeing it come together. There's a layout thread on here with some very good prototype shots inside a clay works, including inside the loading dock All this clay talk makes me want to get the clay layout out... Don't think baby (or wife) will let me get much garage time soon...

If you are looking for a real prototype to model accurately, have a look at pontsmill, it has small space and some good buildings, let down by no loop and a lack of variety in locos (typically 08s though there was mention elsewhere on the forum of at least one visit by a 37) I have thought before a might have been expansion adding a loop and maybe a slurry loading siding to add interest along with some ponts mill inspired buildings would make a good layout... Another location which I think has a lot of potential is Marsh Mills in Plymouth

Hopefully whoever does take over will still offer the upgrade option...