66C

Hi Darryl I have had a similar experience. These cans seem to have no shelf life after first use. I am currently using semi-gloss Rust-oleum (from B&Q) for a project - it sprays on very nicely and is OK with Halfords aerosol paints, enamels, waterslide transfers and Presfix transfers. I have also used Plasti-kote Krystal clear (I think from Homebase) in the past with similarly good results and good shelf life. Always a good idea to check on a test piece before using on that model you have spent a very long time building. Regards.

The advice I gave is based on the layout being wired for DCC with only one power district. If you wish to run the layout on DC then the wiring as described would mean running on a "one engine in steam" basis. Conventional wiring for DC with track sectioning would change the connections to the crossing to take account of the two parallel lines being different sections. Regards.

Hi B&Q do 12mm by 6mm pine strip - fine for indoors. Buy the 2400mm lengths and cut to 72mm pieces to represent half-length standard gauge sleepers. Regards.

Hi First of all make sure that each rail end on the crossing is fitted with isolating rail joiners so that the crossing is completely isolated from the rest of the trackwork. Refer to the user manual for the Cobalt-SS. Use the terminals marked 7 on page 2 of the user manual to switch the V on each turnout. Use the terminals marked 6 on page 2 to switch the Vs on the crossings - separate wiring for each V - one from each side of the turnout controller. Connect the left rail (in your diagram) of the crossing to the left rails of the running lines. Connect the right rail of the crossing to the right rail of the running lines. Please note that this assumes all the trackwork shown is in the same DCC power district. Regards.

Hi Jonathan I think it is normal practice to use bridge chairs for securing bullhead rail on timber baulks. Bridge chairs have the fixing bolts closer to the rail than normal 2 or 3 bolt chairs and so the bolts would not be as close to the edge of the timbers. Your photograph shows the timbers surrounded by stone chips - I do not think that a timber viaduct would have ballast when used by railway track. Regards.

Hi Mark This is from "Railway Bylines", September 1999: Regards.

There are drawings of buildings at Aviemore here and on following pages: http://www.ambaile.org.uk/en/search/do_quick_search.html?q=aviemore&mime_type= Regards.

I went for one of these - it is also an excellent work light. https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/22w-fluorescent-magnifying-craft-lamp-a29ff Regards.

Hi Jim I used this kit to make a low relief factory building but in 7mm scale. Anyway, the pitch for the engine shed roads is 63mm between centres for the OO version - I expect that it was designed to suit set-track spacings. As always these kits lend themselves to adaptation as required. Regards.

Hi Huw Very simple - what is the maximum output (in amps) from your controller? Buy the next value up screw connector block. Regards.

Bear in mind that UK coaching stock fitted with buckeye couplers had the buffers retracted when the buckeys were in use. Regards.

Hi Robin Have a look at this topic: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/112916-hacked-servo-point-control/ Regards.

If you look back to post #2 in this topic you will see all the parts included in the kit - they are all plastic. The kits are fairly basic as supplied but very good value for money. The builder needs to source wheels, buffers and couplings. Additional detail is easy to add and it's up to the individual just how much that is. You may also be interested in another current topic on building Ian's kits - have a look at this from post #135 onwards. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/109283-duncans-7mm-workbench-ian-kirk-coaches/page-6 Regards.

Hi Duncan I have used both methods but prefer a removable roof for coaches with interiors. My method is as follows: First of all the roof moulding is cut to length - just a little longer than the body to give a prototypical overhang. The roof moulding is not cut to width at this stage. I make a false roof (ceiling if you like) from plastic sheet cut to the width of the body side and its length is such that it fits between the ends. This will sit on top of the side mouldings and form part of the cantrail. A strip of wood is glued to what will be the upper surface of the sheet. This composite is then drilled for M4 threaded tees at the locations where fixing screws will be used - I place them in line with the compartment partitions to minimise their appearance. The partitions that accommodate the fixing screws are thicker and in two parts with a central space for the screw. The threaded tees are fixed to the upper surface of the wood strip. A test fit is done at this stage to check the locations of the fixing bolts and fit of the false roof. The second picture shows the body - this one is a for a Gresley articulated twin but I used the same method for my ex-LMS coaches. The screw is upside down only to show its position through the compartment partition. The roof moulding is glued to the false roof taking care to centralise the false roof. The roof moulding is then trimmed for width to that of the false roof. The underside of the roof assembly is sprayed with white primer. I finish the roof with grey primer and then Halfords grey bumper paint. Note that the profile of the top of the coach ends may need adjustment and/or building up to sit neatly against the underside of the roof moulding - best done before any painting of the coach body. Hope you find this useful. Regards.

Hi Simon The end steps are a couple of bits of plasticard - 20thou for the step itself and a bit of microstrip for the flange. Sizes and positions were taken from scaled drawings. Regards.

I positioned the rainstrips according to the information in Ian's instructions - "Cement in place about the centre of the coach and approx 25mm from the edge then gently pull down at the ends to form curves in rainstrips running in a little solvent as you go." This was cross-checked with drawings and photographs from the "Historic Carriage Drawings" book and Volume III of Jenkinson and Essery's Illustrated History of LMS Standard Coaching Stock. Regards.

Hi Dave Mark Clark's website seems to be unavailable at the moment for the 7mm scale model - it should be at: http://www.locosnstuff.co.uk/home If you would like something larger, have a look at: http://pdf-models.com/steam-locos/kerr-stuart-wren/ for a battery powered model, and: http://wrightscale.co.uk/wren.html for a live steam version. If you do a bit of Googling, you should also be able to find 5" and 7.25" gauge versions. Regards.

Alternatively you might wish to consider the following: http://www.kitwoodhillmodels.com/ho-65ft-turntable/ Regards.

I suspect that this list was itself copied from the previous year's information and is not accurate. Alba Railway Models will not be attending with a trade stand this year although if anyone wishes to collect an order they should contact David Elvy as soon as possible. Since Parkside Dundas has sold it's standard gauge range to Peco, I suspect that there will not be trade stand for them either. Regards.

The toggle switch acts as a changeover switch to reverse the direction and as a limit switch to turn off the power as it is moved over. The servo motor only draws current while moving. The mechanical resistance in the gearing holds the servo position at each end of its travel. Bear in mind that in this modified form the electronics are stripped out and the servo is simply a well-geared-down DC motor. I tried one out in a test rig that has been well played with by various fellow modellers and has survived OK so I think that reliability should be fine. The photo shows my test rig operating a 00 Peco turnout mounted on a piece of 6mm ply. Power for the test rig is from 4 AA batteries but the planned implementation operating hand-built 0 gauge turnouts will use a regulated 5 volt supply. Regards.

Copper wire from twin and earth would be easier to cut and solder - some leftover cable would be cheaper than buying brass rod. No reason why it should not work. Regards.

Hi Ernie If you are looking for just the buffer bodies, have you considered approaching suppliers such as Invertrain or Northants and asking if they will supply castings only? This may be considerably cheaper than Shapeways products. Regards.

Hi I used the Ambis tie bar sets (from C&L) - these consist of etched brackets that are soldered to the switch rails and thin double-sided copperclad strip that is used for the stretcher bar. I made the first stretcher bar longer on one side to take a loop of brass wire that engages with the operating wire from the point motor. Hopefully this picture will help (click on the picture to see full size): My track is built using Exactoscale chairs on ply timbers in 7mm scale. Unfortunately the price of the Ambis sets has increased to the point (ouch!) where, in future, I intend to make up my own brackets from 0.5mm wire and use these to attach copperclad strip for the stretcher bar. Regards.

I have used non-solvent based "No More Nails" type glue from a Pound shop for embossed plastic card finishes. Being non-solvent it does not attack the plastic and gives good gap filling for the rear of the plastic sheet. At joints or corners extra glue is used, allowed to extrude from the joint and then left to harden before trimming back and blending in to the embossed pattern to give a neat finish. Regards.