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66C

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  1. 66C
    Hi Dan The turnout shown where the loco stops is the entry to a loop! Have you isolated BOTH of the frogs at each end of the loop? What is the arrangement for the frog of the siding turnout? I suspect your problem is not to do with the DCC80 but the isolating gaps and track feeds needed for the loop. Can you post a diagram of your wiring and positions of insulated joiners? Regards.
  2. 66C
    Hi Ian Have you tried a heavier (stiffer) spring wire instead of that supplied? I have used this successfully with Conrad motors to operate Peco points when the over-centre spring is still in situ. A minor modification to the Peco points that may help is to loosen the retainer for the over-centre spring cover and move the cover out a bit to reduce the pressure on the over-centre spring. Then tighten the retainer to keep the cover in place. Regards.
  3. 66C
    Hi Leigh I appreciate you may not be considering building your own turnouts but I hope this screenshot from Templot will help with the radius question. The turnout is OO gauge and the V is 1 in 4.5. Unfortunately, manufacturers of ready-made pointwork can be very reluctant to provide geometric information or at times may be somewhat misleading in their descriptions. For example, Peco's small radius Streamline turnout is described as 24" radius but the minimum radius in this turnout is much nearer 18" because of the geometric design. So perhaps you should consider building your own - it's not the black art that some people make it out to be and it's much cheaper than buying ready-made. There have been many posts on RMweb about trackbuilding so there is plenty of information and help out there. Regards.
  4. 66C

    62ºN

    66C replied to JZ's topic in Wheeltappers

    Perhaps because it is not thatch! Faroese roofs are traditionally turfed; with livestock - usually a sheep or goat - used for "pruning". Regards.
  5. 66C
    Hi DT The main drawback with circuit breakers (resettable fuses) such as those sold by Maplin is that the response time is relatively slow. Another, well tried, method is to use a car indicator bulb in series with the track (or section) supply. A variation, with a good explanation, can be found here: http://www.rr-cirkits.com/Notebook/short.html This approach seems to offer the best of both and is relatively cheap to implement. Regards.
  6. 66C
    Hi Ian They will run on current code 100 track without any problems. If you want vintage track with the coarser rail then you should be looking for Super 4 or Series 3 track. Super 4 has the same geometry as current set-track. Series 3 geometry was different - large radius (2nd) is the same as current set-track at 17.25 inches but small (1st) radius was 13.5 inches and so track centres were wider. A single length of straight track was 7.25 inches long. Single curves were 30 degree arcs. Series 3 track had widely spaced, black plastic sleepers that were much shorter than scale length. Another alternative from the mid 1950s is Standard track. This had the same geometry as Series 3 but had a grey ballast style mounded base - if you go for this be aware the the early Standard track was single ended! Regards.
  7. 66C
    Hi Michael Have you considered using the digital version of the Cobalt point motor? It connects directly to a DCC bus - worth considering. Regards
  8. 66C
    Hi Stephen I recently ordered Individulay parts and code 124 rail from Gaugemaster. In stock items were sent quickly and out of stock items were supplied within a couple of weeks without any problems. Regards.
  9. 66C
    Hi Rod Dingham etches are nickel silver, not brass. Are you using the correct blackener? Regards.
  10. 66C
    It looks as though you first of all need to understand the difference between Class A and Class B. Have a look at: http://www.srpsmuseum.org.uk/tankslist.htm and http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/gansg/4-rstock/5-tank.htm Regards.
  11. 66C
    Hi Barney I have sent you a PM. Regards.
  12. 66C
    Have a look at: http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=PEIL-11&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Peco+IL%2D11 Although I would have thought that these are more suited to larger scales. Unless you are thinking of the earlier incarnation of the fine track pins - I think they were brass - that are now made in steel: http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=PESL-14&r=1 Regards.
  13. 66C
    Hi Doug Ideally for DC control your layout needs to be split into 3 sections - each with a feed. I have edited your diagram to show where to put the isolating gaps (red lines across the track) and also the position of the extra feeds. The track feeds would be best switched if you have only one controller so that locos can be controlled separately in different parts of the layout. I hope you find this useful. Regards.
  14. 66C
    Hi Rob Have a look at: http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=BPDCC80&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+BPDCC80 Regards.
  15. 66C
    You could contact Easybuild to find out whether they will supply those from their DMU kits separately. http://www.easybuildcoaches.co.uk Regards.
  16. 66C
    If you want to model something with only one loco: This is on the way to Steele's repair yard in Hamilton. Regards.
  17. 66C
    Hi Neil Have you decided to omit the little coal siding at the south end of the station? It was just next to the building that is currently a WH Smith but I think the building was originally for the railway. Regards.
  18. 66C
    Another endorsement for RC Trains - excellent website and I have no doubt that the new owner will be just as helpful as Rik. Regards.
  19. 66C
    Hi Vistiaen I suggest starting by staining the sleepers with a diluted mix of brown and black enamel paint. This will give them colour without losing the wood's natural surface. If they are simply painted, this will be lost. Next paint, with an airbrush if possible, the chairs and side of the rails using a more reddish colour to represent the dirty rust colour that they acquire in use. The reason for suggesting an airbrush is that you have plenty of control over the amount of paint applied. Don't worry about overspray on to the sleepers - it's surprising how little there is. The plain track should get the same treatment prior to ballasting. Finish the ballasted track with a suitable mix of colour from an airbrush, if possible. Regards.
  20. 66C
    Hi Nigel Have a look here: http://www.albarailwaymodels.co.uk/instructions.html Regards.
  21. 66C
    until
    Event Name: GlasGOw 2017 Classification: Exhibition Address: Pollokshaws Burgh Halls, 2025 Pollokshaws Road, Glasgow, G43 1NE Day 1: 10/06/2017 Opening times Day 1: 1000 to 1600 Day 2: 11/06/2017 Opening times Day 2: 1100 to 1600 Prices: Adult £6.00 Accompanied children free Disability access: Yes Car parking: Yes Organising body: Strathclyde O Gauge Group Organiser: Bob McLay on 0141 637 4189 or Bill Campbell at wcampbell23@yahoo.co.uk GlasGOw 2017 is the 17th year of Scotland's major gauge O only event. It is organised by the Strathclyde O Gauge Group. Opening hours are 1000-1600 on Saturday 10 June and 1100-1600 on Sunday 11 June. The venue is Pollokshaws Burgh Halls, 2026 Pollokshaws Road, Glasgow, G43 1NE. Admission is £6.00 for adults and free for accompanied children. The halls are opposite Pollokshaws West station on the East Kilbride/Barrhead lines or 5-10 minutes walk from Shawlands station on the Cathcart Circle. Bus services 3/57A (First) and 3 (McGills) pass the door. By car follow the signs for the Pollok Country Park & Burrell Collection from M77 Junction 2 or M8 Junction 22 - the halls are on the opposite side of the road. There is free off-street parking. Layouts booked are: Ashlie Down, Mordaunt Street, Union Street and the Ayr MRG test track. Traders expected are: Douglas Blades, Helmsman Model Rail, Hobby Holidays, Ian Kirk Models, Invertrain Model Railways, JPL Models, Scenic Solutions, Squires Model and Craft Tools and The Tower Collection Blackpool. There will also be demonstrators, a bring & buy stand and a café. Contacts for further information are Bob McLay on 0141 637 4189 or Bill Campbell at wcampbell23@yahoo.co.uk
  22. 66C
    Hi Duncan Top left corner of home page on the Little Loco Company website. My question is - How will the reservation process deal with livery variations? Regards.
  23. 66C
    Don't forget to seal the coal with PVA or varnish to prevent it gradually oxidising. Regards.
  24. 66C
    Have a look at: http://rctrains.co.uk/index.htm Rik markets user-ready versions of the Deltang kit. My only connection is as a satisfied customer and I can vouch for the fine control of an O gauge loco. Regards.
  25. 66C
    Hi Martin The only regret you will have moving to 7mm scale is that life is too short! Here is an example of a compact layout designed for a friend to fit inside a 10ft long shed: The track design was done in Templot and the tapered shape is so that the shed door can open! If you have not already done so, consider joining the O Gauge Guild. They are generally a friendly, helpful bunch of people. Have a look at the Guild's website - there is a members' forum that is great for getting and sharing ideas and projects, an archive of all the past issues of the Guild magazine and something that may interest you - an online version of the Guild publication "Small Layouts Vol 1". I think that can be accessed by non-members - it's under the Publications tab on the home page. Regards.
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