66C

Hi Richard There has been a number of posts on the Gauge O Guild forum expressing similar problems to those you have encountered. One post in August this year gave the impression that the concern had ceased trading. Regards.

Hi Jock In 4mm scale DJH list kits for the Jumbo and the 439 Class - details here: http://www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/lms-kits/ In 7mm scale kits are available from Alba Railway Models - details here: http://www.albarailwaymodels.co.uk/kits_loco.html Regards.

Hi Mike It's a nice well thought out design for the space available. I would like to make one suggestion - move the point L1 as far to the right as possible given the baseboard join between it and L2. The idea is to give a bit more length when shunting the goods yard if there is a train sitting in the main platform road. I hope you will post photos as you progress. Regards.

Hi Jim You do not mention whether you are looking for a panel mount or hand held. In either case I can recommend that you consider the Modelex controllers. Have a look at: http://modelexmodelrailways.co.uk/ I think they are of better quality than Gaugemaster whose quality control dipped sharply when the current version of their handheld was introduced - two purchased, both fell to bits - literally! and then both failed after little use. I have no connection with the company other than a satisfied user in two model railway clubs. Nearly forgot to mention - they are also somewhat cheaper than Gaugemaster. Regards.

Hi Neil Once upon a time I also started a lattice footbridge for the Aviemore layout and then promptly gave up when Hornby introduced their model - not quite the same as that at Aviemore but it did the job. There are two possibilities that I know of in 2mm scale: Lochgorm kits do an etched Highland Railway footbridge - you can download their 2mm catalogue here: http://www.lochgormkits.co.uk/html/catalogue.html A bit less prototypical but probably a bit easier to build is the plastic kit from York Modelmaking - details here: http://www.yorkmodelmaking.co.uk/n-scale/detailing-steps-signs/n-scalefootbridge-kit Both are worth considering on the basis that life is too short! Regards.

As requested - the track plan is not the final version - it ended up with two (then style) Fulgurex turntables in the fiddle yard and the double slip in the shed area was changed. Some modellers' licence was also exercised with the line to Boat of Garten. The layout was 20 feet long by 10ft 6in wide. I hope you find these useful. Regards.

It was actually more like 30 years ago - here is a photo looking from the north end of the layout. One of these days we will get around to adding some words and pictures to the club website. Regards.

The second picture looks like a shot through the framework of the avalanche shelter on the Flam Railway in Norway. In case others are wondering Flam is pronounced "Flom". Website here: www.flaamsbana.no Regards.

Hi Howard A couple of suggestions: Have you considered turning the plan from this post upside down? That would give you walk past space from the doorway at the end of the fiddle yard and you would be able to increase the radius of the curve by placing the fiddle yard against the wall. If the approach pointwork were started on the curve that would maximise the length of the fiddle yard sidings. Another possibility is to use a sector plate for the fiddle yard - this would give a longer run in the scenic section and potentially allow longer sidings. It would also save on two points in terms of cost and building time. Regards.

One possibility for a more flexible method of operating the tiebars is to use rivets to link the blade and tiebar. KBscale sell suitable rivets and illustrate how to use them in their downloadable booklet on track. Details at: http://www.kbscale.com/track-parts.html An alternative method would be to use two tiebars at each end of the double slip - one for each pair of blades. The tiebars could then be operated together but the stress would be reduced as each would only need to flex on two blades instead of one tiebar for all four blades. Regards.

For those who wish to use a spring and pin to retain the Dinghams, one way of cutting down the sideways "sway" and vertical pitching is to use the etched pockets (or plates) from the fret. These have a narrower slot than is provided in most buffer beams and so give better alignment - especially so if used on BOTH sides of the bufferbeam to form a sandwich. It also helps to compress the spring as much as possible when fitting the pin. I find it easier to use a 6mm length of brass wire instead of a split pin - the wire is bent at 90 degrees half way along its length. It is easier to insert than a split pin, especially if the access is restricted by chassis members and the V shape means that it is retained by the spring. It is also easier to remove than a split pin if the coupling needs to be removed for any reason. Regards.

Hi Craig What matters is the spacing from one track centre to another. Most O gauge modellers work to 80mm for parallel tracks but this is increased for sidings or loops adjacent to running lines. For a fiddle yard you also have to take into account the 12" to the foot fingers - you are likely to find it difficult to handle stock if the track centres are 80mm - I suggest thinking of at least 90mm centres and 100mm if you can. 100mm centres would give you 6 tracks on a 2' wide baseboard For 7 tracks you would need to decrease the track centres to approximately 86mm. One thing to consider in the design of your fiddle yard is the length of approach pointwork if you are not using a sector plate or traverser. Regards.

Hi John 1) The pins should be plenty long enough based on those I have used in the past. 2) If you do not want to buy more PL-9s, mount the Peco solenoids under the board by bending the fixing lugs outward and then fix in place with a screw and washer. The operating pin goes through a slot in the board as for the PL-9s. If these solenoids do not have the extended pins, you can easily extend them with some fine bore tube and wire. 3) An alternative to the side mounting solenoids is to use one of the PL-9 mounted motors with wire in tube from a convenient location. Wire in tube works fine with the Peco solenoids. If you want to use your H&M solenoids, make a crank from coat hanger wire for the shaft, cross cut into the end with a junior hacksaw, solder some brass wire for an arm, bend the end of the arm down about 1" from the shaft to fit into the operating hole in a Peco point and fit through a hole in the baseboard. Only the top of the shaft and the wire are visible so reasonably discrete. An alternative if you still have the crank that came with the H&M is to fix a spring wire (piano wire) through both the fixed crank and the extra crank (secure on the extra crank and simply feed through the fixed crank to give a little flexibility so that one end of the wire protrudes through a slot in the baseboard to the point's tie bar - very discrete and easier to do than describe. I have used all of the above at some time in the past with good results. Regards.

Hi Peter Be careful not to be too enthusiastic with the heat gun - too much heat and the plastic sheet will shrink - guess how I know this! My best results were draping the plastic sheet over a former - the axis of the cylindrical former being horizontal - and letting gravity do the forming as the heat is applied. Use a former a little smaller in diameter than that of the curved walling as the plastic will "spring back" a bit on cooling. I found it best to start with a piece of plastic larger than the finished size and then trim after fixing in place. You may also find the plastic sheet is more brittle after heating. Regards.

Or early DMU green for that matter. Regards.

Hi Lloyd You will also find some useful wiring diagrams here: http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=9 The best way to wire "live frog" turnouts is to definitely cut the links and power the frog with an auxiliary switch. it is also good practice to link the switch and stock rails with a feed wire so that you are not reliant on switch blade contact for electrical continuity. Regards.

The 16mm Association site has a build of the Houston Gate loco as a model of the month. It can be found here: http://www.16mm.org.uk/newsite/motm/mom2014-01.html Well worth a look. Regards.

I think there is another at the Royal Deeside Railway. There were pictures on their website at one time but the albums are no longer available. Here is one of the pictures showing its arrival: Regards.

Just in case anyone is wondering the Conrad motors will also operate Peco turnouts with the over-centre spring if slightly heavier piano wire is used for the linkage. Regards.

The only photograph I have come across is on page 98 of Peter Tatlow's "A Pictorial Record of LNER Wagons" - ISBN 0 902888 92 7. It shows NE 68932 in service with what appears to be a crippled SR open wagon as a load. The photograph is monochrome and so may not be of much help with weathering. Regards.

Hi all For those lesser mortals not blessed with Ian's outstanding modelling skills a 7mm scale kit for a 171 Class is expected from Alba Railway Models in early 2015. If anyone wants more details contact info is on their website at: http://www.albarailwaymodels.co.uk/ Regards.

Hi David Have a look at this: http://www.kitwoodhillmodels.com/on30-9-pit-turntable/ It scales out at 53 feet for 4mm scale. Regards.

Hi Steve For straight cuts in relatively thin ply - up to about 6mm thick - use a Stanley knife. Score one side and cut part way through and then transfer the cut position to the other side and cut the rest of the way through. This is accurate and there is no mess. For thicker ply score the cut line with a Stanley knife and then cut with a saw on the waste side of the line. Regards.

Hi Jock Have you contacted the Glasgow & South Western Railway Association? They have a website at: http://www.gswrr.co.uk/ Regards.