Captain Kernow

Any news re: the above please Stu?

'Stunning', 'fantastic', 'exceptional', 'wonderful', these adjectives hardly do your work justice, Andrew.

44 minutes ago, Gordon A said:

Were those full width bearings?

I ask because Chris G does slim square bearings.

Well, you're right, Gordon.

They are the full-width bearings, as supplied with the kit and I happily assembled the whole thing 'as per the instructions'.

I may even have some of his slimmer bearings somewhere, but once the hornblocks were soldered on and with the presence of the springs, it's not possible to change them.

If I'd known about this prior to soldering in the hornblocks, I'd certainly have filed the full-width bearings down sufficiently, if I hadn't been able to access any of the slimmer ones.

Lovely work, Robin.

May I ask about the origin of the window frames, please?

Excellent work and an interesting, modern-looking prototype.

Good luck with your project!

Have you heard of this recent book on the Chard branches? - http://lightmoor.co.uk/books/branch-lines-to-chard/L8528

Knowing the author, it will have been meticulously researched and no doubt full of useful and interesting information.

Superb work, jamie.

Lovely stuff, Robin.

I'll bet they run as good as they look.

I do like the way that the blue cradle also masks the loco body off!

That's one cool dude arrow you've got there!

Hi Mick, have you ever considered wiring the loco up direct to a controller, so that you can rotate the wheels while you are airbrushing, thus allowing you to also clean the treads with a cotton bud whilst the paint is still wet? (you can see that I've been thinking about this but haven't done it myself yet!).

In my relatively limited experience, once fully applied and dried (I'd suggest that perhaps the varnish still hasn't quite dried out in Mick's second photo), I have found Dullcote the best for giving a good, matt finish, but this only applies (in my personal experience) to the original USA formula.

I bought two or three rattle cans of this a few years ago from an exhibition and have found it very good.

More recently, when looking for more supplies, I found it being sold with a different label and an apparently amended formula (possibly to meet European/UK safety requirements?) and this stuff didn't give quite such a matt finish.

Not sure where to go from here, as you just can't get the original 'USA formula' any more (unless someone knows of a dodgy 'Private Walker' spiv supplier).

I've also heard (from Rob the Sheepman of this parish) that the Humbrol acrylic spray cans are good, so I've got myself one of these, but haven't tried using it yet.

What's 'GT85', please?

Yes, further information on the precise nature of the processes would certainly be appreciated, please!

One question in particular, before I start practicing on a small Peckett, did you remove the body from the chassis at any stage in the proceedings and what was the procedure for weathering the wheels, please?

First class work there on that lovely track work.

Do please show us more of what you are working on.

They all look great, Mick.

That's a lot of Pecketts, are some or all of them commissions or otherwise destined for other people?

I like that.

Presumably the mineral wagons each have a large rice pudding in them?

Cornflakes.

I've no idea how to resuscitate an old blog, so well done Sheepiechap, if you've managed to do this.

5 hours ago, Brinkly said:

 

Tim, what did you paint the buildings with? 

Nick, I used Precision Southern Region green and cream (purchased at Wells).

1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

(But the outside looks very nice, if a little clean).

 

Whole station recently repainted, so the Gents had to match the other buildings, which Rod built. That said, I did apply some weathering with powders, having first sprayed the whole building (except glazing and roof slates) with Dullcote.

1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

 

Interesting that you've weathered the sleepers on the buffer stops items - how easy was it to then blend them with the track sleepers?

Can't say with regard to the track on Balcombe, as I didn't weather that, but I treated these buffer stops in the same way that I will be doing my own for Bethesda Sidings and using the same paint mixes. On Balcombe, the sleepers aren't fully visible now on some of them, as vegetation has taken over!

Very nice, Mick.

Is the loco one of yours or a commission, by the way, please?

Very interesting to see that the white spirit will shift the Dullcote, so thanks for that one.

But would a cotton bud (one of the thin Tamiya ones, for example) do the job, or is the Dullcote sufficiently hardened that it has to be the wooden stick?

I'm interested, because when I recently sprayed some vehicles with Dullcote, I either masked the windows or removed the glazing (where they manufacture of the vehicle allowed this).

Thanks.

On 12/08/2019 at 11:03, Jack Benson said:

My apologies, 

 

Did you rebuild two examples of the DJM 14XX, if so, did you take the same approach to each?

 

Whatever the answer, it has been very informative, thank you.

 

JB

Hi Jack,

Apologies, only just seen your post. I haven't (as yet) done anything to the second 14XX. The back-to-backs (at 15mm in lieu of the more normal 14.5mm) don't like my 'OO-SF' (never again) pointwork on Bethesda Sidings, so until I've sorted that out, I'm holding off a decision on a replacement chassis.

Mick,

Would you be able to illustrate a 'half inch flat shader' and a 'filbert brush', please?

Thanks.