Pugsley

Superb weathering there Howard, they look really good.

I hope you don't mind a little constructive criticism - the springs and axleguards look a little glossy in a couple of the pictures - if you attended to that, they'd be perfect 8) Weathering powders mixed with hairspray to a paint-like consistency, and brushed on, would do the job.

There's nothing wrong with the brakes in the kit, I had to replace them though as they're brass. Because the brakes sit commendably close to the wheel treads, and I'm mounting the brakes onto the etched inner frame, I was concerned about the risk of short circuits through it.

If you're building the kit as designed, they fit into the bogie moulding, which is an insulating lump of resin, so it's not a problem. In fact, most of the problems I've had have been caused by not building the kit as intended!

What you see above is pretty much a direct copy of the brakes in the kit, so that they'd fit the brake rigging and I'd already designed the mounting around the original parts, before thinking of the problems they could cause.

Yes, those 3 areas are part of it. There is more, but those bits show up best in photographs.

The ride height is now more or less sorted - the adjusting screws needed, erm, adjusting. I'll stick up another photo a bit later to canvass opinion, but I think it's more or less right now. I hope so, as adjusting it further is going to involve milling!

Bizarrely, it needs a little weight in one end to bring it down a bit, whereas the other end is fine.

No more shots at the moment, but I'll see what I can do. I used a 3mm conical carbide burr to get the effect.

Option 4 sounds to me like the only way forward, the tolerances on FUD obviously aren't good enough for wheels in 2mm scale.

I also agree with Bill, above, that some kind of press is required for fitting the wheel to the axle - some of the wheels on my 37 aren't quite as good as they should be, a press would have prevented that.

Remind me to never upset you...

Thanks James. Battery power would be a nice solution, but as I wanted sound etc, it's not the right solution at the moment. I am keeping an eye on this:

http://westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/acc-ess-protocab.2124/

which looks to have real potential, but it's early days yet. Once that has sound and lights capabilities, along the lines of a current DCC system, I'd go for it. Hopefully by the time I get round to building a 7mm layout, it'll be a viable alternative.

Until that time, I need to sort out the pickups etc, which shouldn't be too difficult. I just need to give it a bit of thought.

Thanks everyone!

Was there something odd going on with the etch brake levers... they're visible in a few photos, missing in others... that got my mind wondering.

Nothing odd - I just kept knocking them off! I started off refixing them, but when I knocked them off for the second time I gave up and added them at the end

Now, how about trying a Deltic

No chance

That acrylic gel medium works nicely. Is it a Liquitex one?

What a brilliant concept! It's going to be a challenge, I think, but one that will ultimately be worthwhile. I'll be watching with interest.

If there's no backscene, could you just have a simple lighting rig that swings in an arc from overhead, down towards one end of the board?

I had no idea that it was a team sport!

I don't know when or where the next outing will be yet, I guess it depends if the S7 test track is going to be at Bristol in January. If it is, then it may make an appearance there. It might even be painted at that stage!

If not, I'm not sure when it will be although I have been challenged to run it on Aberbeeg and see how much it will pull up the hill, which could be interesting

I have some colleagues who are like that. Can you fix them too? :-)

Sorry, I also have some of those, so will be sorting those out first. When that's done, I'll consider it

Thanks Peter 8)

Sadly the large 37 is not a runner at the moment, but it's not going to defeat me!

Thanks Jon. I've been developing techniques for subtle weathering, whilst I'm not totally there yet, I should be with a bit more practice.

I've cut the sideframes away from the moulding and then stuck them back on a bit higher up. It improves the look of the model no end, and the act of cutting them away also solves the problem of them being too wide.

I think the yellow coach ends only came in with the later stripes livery, but I'm not 100% sure.

Very cool. Can you pass on the advice about sending the files to Shapeways, please? I've had a bit of a problem with some of my parts too.

Nice 8)

706 is a cracking subject for a 'going to town' weathering job, and yours is looking particularly good.

Thanks James 8)

I don't know if I have said what the chip is, in previous instalments. I'm using a Zimo MX695 with the Digitrains multidrive 37 sounds, and a QSI 'High Bass' speaker. I've built a custom 'infinite baffle' enclosure for it (effectively a sealed box, at least it will be once glued into the roof!) which should enhance the bass further, apparently. Sadly the Visaton one you've got is too big for the 37.

Hopefully I should see if it works on Saturday! If it does, I'll see if I can post a video of it at a later date, although I am going to have to get a bigger rolling road for that to happen.

Yes, US stuff really is that much bigger!

Wow, there's certainly plenty of attention to detail in that signalbox. Top stuff!

I'll second CK's comments, they all look really good.

They do other materials though, I'm going to try having some of my parts for the IZAs done in their detail resin, which seems to have the same qualities as FUD. I think it's a bit more expensive though.

Of course, you know that's not proper modelling

Kerosene Castle is looking good, you're well on the way to capturing the front end nicely. That'll look good racing through Highclere!

Makes sense to me brightspark.

I used a neutral beige on my layout, which seemed to work in concentrating the eye onto the layout itself, not the stark fascia. I also agree with Julia, in as much as the simplest, and possibly most effective way of solving the problem is to move the track further inboard.

That's a lovely, very inventive, neat, piece of bodgery. Top marks! 8)

Good stuff Guy, those really look the part 8)