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James Hilton

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  1. James Hilton
    Well I don't seem to have posted on here for a very long time indeed and several large scale projects have come and gone in the last 10 months. On top of those (all detailed on my G-scale blog: http://ejklr.blogspot.co.uk) I have also been working on a variety of 009 kits (most featured on my 4mm scale blog: http://paxton-road.blogspot.co.uk)...
    However for those of you regular readers of my infrequent blog who have not seen what I've been up to, and inspired a touch by Jon's magnus opus entry on his P4 Class 47 I thought I'd try and summarise progress on my Neil Sayer La Meuse kit.
     
    (My first entry is here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/10/entry-10281-musing-over-la-meuse/)
     
    I've mentioned milestones in my modelling in the past, but at the start of this project I honestly felt like I'd surpassed them all and conquered something that has put me off kit building steam engines for a very long time... This was back in October...

    I assembled the connecting and piston rod, cut out, cleaned up, reamed out, soldered up and pinned together the valve gear for one side of La Meuse. My word it's a test of my eye sight and incredible fiddly, but it's worth it, it looks superb! I can't believe the machines or workers in China/Taiwan who put this stuff together for a living, they must have some incredibly strong magnifiers, patience of a saint and good work tools.

     
    However, if I'm honest my progress was slowed by the lovely but daunting valve gear. By February I had nearly finished one side, with just the link that connects it all to the chassis to fit...

     
    Then came the moment of truth, before I fitted the final pin in the valve gear on the first completed side I wanted to test out the chassis. At this stage the second side was not fitted. Apart from needing a drop of retainer on the return crank pin it all worked smoothly...

     
    It wasn't then until the end of April when the second side of valve gear was finished off. This marked the end of hot sweats, blue air and burnt fingers...

    After all the trials and tribulations of the first side (where I had to re-do assembly a few times due to my own mistakes) I actually finished all the second side assembly in one go with only one tricky moment when I soldered the reverse link solid!
     
    And to prove you don't need any special tools my selection of snips, pliers, tweezers etc...


     
    I was worried about how the body would go together - the etched parts seemed very fine, much smaller and neater then kits I'd assembled in the past. However, the thought of seeing the potential of the finished model was enough encouragement to start so I assembled the footplate, buffer beams and got my first view of the finished models proportions...

     
    The model yet again proved to assemble very easily, it was great to add the boiler and side tank weights and do some running too. At this stage I am still not 100% happy with the performance of the Graham Farish chassis, I need a rolling road so I can get it run in properly. It runs a lot better backwards than forwards, which suggests a gear issue rather than the assembled valve gear.
     
    The body is detailed by adding half etched thin sheets over the carcass previously assembled above. I was initially concerned about how to solder these together and did consider glue - however I took a few months off the project and started this again earlier in July. I used plenty of Carr's Green Flux and low melt (145degC) solder - carefully applying a touch along all the edges. The solder flowed into the join easily and only needed the smallest amount of tidying up...

     
    At this stage, the model is beginning to look finished but there were still quite a few detailing bits to add to the cab before the etches were empty of parts however. So that brings us up to the present, and tonight despite spending the same amount of time again on the body it feels like there is less to show for the effort!

     
    The rivets along the roof line have been added from half etched parts, and the window frames carefully fitted. I've also added the side tank weights and the tank foot steps.

     
    I'll leave you with this side profile - a photos I find very exciting as it shows the lovely proportions of the prototype and with half a squint I can being to see the finished article emerging. Some people have asked how big the model is so I've posed it alongside a 50p piece, which goes to show how delicate the valve gear is on this model!

  2. James Hilton
    Where to go after building a pair of Worsley Works scratch aid kits?
     
    I was looking for a natural progression, but also a nice kit of an attractive prototype...
    I wanted to find something that used a proprietary N gauge chassis but perhaps needed valve gear...
    I stumbled upon the Neil Sayer La Meuse quite by accident. It ticked all the boxes, exquisite design, clean etches, based on the GF 08 chassis, quite complicated valve gear, and available direct from Neil with a chassis as well.
     
    So back in early May a rather rash purchase was made...

     
    The kit is based upon a 600mm gauge prototype built in 1938 by the Belgium firm 'La Meuse' for 'Maizy' sugar refinery in France but ended up at the 'Tramway de Pithiviers a Toury'. There is a history and some photos on the International Steam website.
     
    So back to the kit... it arrived, beautifully packaged, and opened to find clean white metal boiler casting, lost wax brass castings for the chimney, dome and sundries, clean nickel silver etches and wire. Instructions on a CD too, with clear photos and assembly notes, along with a brief history of the prototype (more perhaps on that another day).

     
    A start was made on the chassis, that folded up nicely, and then on to the cylinders...


     
    ...but then two things happened. One my G scale Romanian Lxd2 kit arrived, and second, my son was born! Suffice to say working in G scale, in styrene was easier to fit around a new born baby so the Neil Sayer kit went in the drawer.
     
    Until this week...
     
    With the Faur Lxd2 finished, I just dug out the box to have a look. Before I knew it out had come the soldering iron and I finished soldering on the laminations on the cylinders and attached them to the chassis... Still a long way to go, more chassis detail bits to add before the instructions lead me onto the valve gear.


     
    So first impressions, this is a well designed kit with good instructions that is fitting together very well indeed.

     
    The real question you'll all have, is where am I going next!? Regular readers of my external blog will have seen sketches and scribbles for a number of 009 layout schemes, to keep me content over winter when I can't run the garden railway as easily.
  3. James Hilton
    So about 6 months into my 009 modelling career and the first two models are finished...

     
    Both the diesel (a Schoema prototype, currently based on the Isle of Man Steam Railway) and the railbus (a Baguley Drewry prototype, initially an admiralty vehicle I believe, currently on the Welshpool and Llanfair) are built from etched brass Worsley Works 'scratch-aid' kits. What does 'scratch-aid' mean? Basically you get an etched brass kit with some detailing but you need to source a chassis, detailing parts and sometimes fabricate a roof. They are well designed and cleanly produced and with care, really build into very characterful prototypes.

     
    My 009 meanderings have very little clear direction at present, hence the odd choice of prototype - I just liked them! They both make use of the excellent value and compact Kato tram chassis for N-gauge, available for around £20 delivered - which makes these kits excellent value at less than £50 each when completed. I sourced the plasticard, turned brass components and sections from the usual suppliers (Alan Gibson and Eileen's Emporium).
     
    I shall not give a full-build here - if you're interested they feature heavily on my external blog and I've also described the build, in patches on here. However in recent weeks I have got around to finishing them both off with a subtle weathered finish.


     
    The weathering followed my old 4mm techniques, that I had not used for sometime. Both chassis was treated to a dirtying up using enamels (Humbrol 33, 53 and 98), black, gun-metal and chocolate. When this was dry I dry brushed some more gun-metal on the step edges, cab door step and handrails and applied some Mig weathering powder on the chassis to give some tonal variation and accentuate some of the shadows.
     
    The body on the diesel had some wash (diluted 33 and 98) dripped into the panel lines, and carefully cleaned up to show only in the panel lines, and on the radiator grilles.
     
    I then used an airbrush with three different weathering tones to blend the wash and dry brushing together. On the diesel I used a grey (created from a black and cream mix) to 'fade' the roof to give a sun bleaching and dusty appearance. I then used a straight brown (chocolate 98) on the chassis of both engines, and a light spray from the underside over the buffer beams. I also drifted a little of this over the roof of the railbus. I then used a black (33) with a smidge of chocolate (98) to add some exhaust deposits to the bonnet and roof of the diesel.
     
    Once dry I sprayed a little matt varnish (that has ended up slightly satin - initially I was annoyed, but it actually adds to the effect I think) and added the glazing, before taking them outside for a few snaps... (the diesel will receive custom etched nickel silver plates from Narrow Planet).
     

     
    So what next? Well I've got two kits on order - a large scale 1:22 kit of a Romanian Faur L45H diesel (for the garden line) and a 009 Le Meuse 2-6-0T etched kit using the Graham Farish N-gauge 08 chassis. I have also been scribbling ideas for a small 4mm layout with a running 009 section and a static P4 siding or too, but as I've not really got any prototypes in mind it's proving difficult to focus my attention on something long enough to get a decent plan... at the very least I need a photo plank!
     
    If people are interested in the Garden Railway (1:22) projects I can share them on here too - they just don't often get much comment so I usually only update my Garden Railway external blog. Let me know. I'll continue to share the 009 meanderings on occasion on RMweb, but keep your eyes glued to my 4mm blog if you're interested in more frequent ramblings.
  4. James Hilton
    This weekend is (approximately) the first anniversary of my garden railway...
     

     
    The past 12 months have proven that a ground level line, built with good solid foundations, left floating in the ballast can survive the worst the British weather can throw at it, from baking hot summer (well spring!) days, torrential downpours, hard frost, deep snow. It is anything but maintenance free, requiring the ballast topping up, 'tamping' areas where the sub-layer subsides, and regular weeding - but it feels like you have you're very own full size railway, it's actually a relaxing side of the hobby I had never appreciated.
     

     
    And what of the line itself? Well I've scratchbuilt a few buildings and signals, repainted and refurbished a lot of LGB rolling stock and have even scratchbuilt some rolling stock. It's been truly refreshing to work without the constraints of the 'mainstream' scales, and I hope, despite all the scale in-accuracies and other compromises in the models that I have gone some way to capturing the spirit of the narrow gauge lines in Austria during the late 1950s through to the 1980s.
     

     
    So what for the next 12 months? Well I've another scratchbuild rolling stock project, and a third building I want to create. I've also got a big Eastern European narrow gauge diesel kit on order from a small supplier in Germany. Along with another LGB trainset I'm getting for my birthday, I've plenty of projects to maintain my interest.
     

     
    Some of you may have spotted a longer 'photo' update in the 'Outdoors' section of the forum, those that missed it, it's here...
    Introducing the EJ&KLR
  5. James Hilton
    Well my parallel modelling in G-gauge (http://ejklr.blogspot.co.uk) and 009 continues (http://paxton-road.blogspot.co.uk), albeit at a reduced pace with a busy time at work and an even busier time at home (my second child is due in about 4 weeks)…
     
    It does seem a long time since I wrote on RMweb so in the style of Jon020 here is a bumper update. The Worsley Works (WW) kits are cheap, well designed but really are ‘scratch aids’ in that you get a body, possibly a roof, possibly a chassis and the motorisation/rolling chassis and other details are left to you. It’s a great balance of modelling – that with time and patience can produce a really excellent result. In a world of near mm perfect offerings in OO from Hornby, Bachmann, Dapol and the like it’s refreshing to work in a scale where true model making is still very much the norm, against the dumming down of the skills required by increasing standards in ready-to-run locomotives, rolling stock and now even ready-to-plant buildings!
     
     
    The Wasp…
    The ‘Wasp’, the standard gauge re-gauged inspection saloon that resides (albeit stored at present I believe) on the Welshpool and Llanfair (W&L) is now looking pretty complete – still some way to go (more on that later). I can’t quite remember what stage I’d got the model too in my last blog entry? After putting together the chassis and body in brass, fitting the KATO tram chassis I moved onto body detailing. I started with a 40thou plasticard roof, scored down the centre (on the reverse) and gently bent into a mild ridge. This was superglued to the brass flat roof on the WW kit, and the gaps at each end filled and shaped with Milliput Superfine. On the chassis the sandboxes were scratchbuilt from 10thou plasticard, very fiddly but worth it for the accurate shape, and sanding pipework added from 0.4mm brass wire. Other chassis details included some old staples for the foot steps and plasticard and brass rod offcuts for the battery box and exhaust pipe. In addition a few bits from the ‘junk’ box (I think from a US outline multiple working detailing set) were used to represent the valves and taps. On the body I added L section plasticard to represent the door runners, off cuts of sprue shaped to be a headlight at each end and then 0.4 and 0.3mm brass rod gently shaped to represent the windscreen wipers, and 0.4mm brass rod used for the handles.
     





     
    When complete a coat of primer transformed the meddly of parts into a coherent whole – and showed the promise of the basically ‘right’ character of the original WW scratch-aid kit. I left the Halfords Plastic primer to dry for a few weeks before applying Humbrol paints for the body colours. This started with matt yellow on each end, this was then masked with B&Q precision masking tape cut to the right size (using a scalpel and a metal rule on a small sheet of glass from an old clip picture frame). I then airbrushed on lightly the matt black – which means you get really sharp crisp lines and no build up of paint against the masking edges. Once dry the ends were masked and I applied the dark green body colour.
     




     
    You should also notice the wonderful etched brass works plates on each end – these are from Narrow Planet (www.narrowplanet.co.uk) and are painted by brushing on quite sparingly onto the plate whilst it’s on the fret, letting it dry a little (say 5 minutes for an enamel like Humbrol) until it goes tacky and then turn it upside down and polish on a piece of clean white paper – this gently removes paint from the raised surfaces. Then cut them out and gently burnish the edges to remove any paint left on those… They were affixed with a spot of Superglue on each end.
     


     
    This model is now ready for detail painting (headlights, wipers etc), then I’ll seal it with varnish. Then the order of tasks needs working out but I need to fit glazing, paint the interior walls, fit a engine cabinet, seats and driving controls and a gentle weathering of the chassis and body.
     
     
    …and the Viking…
    I did intend originally to progress these models separately but the Worsley Works (WW) Isle of Man (IOM) Schoema kit very quickly caught up with the progress on Wasp. This model also utilises a KATO tram chassis, and I last posted on here as the basic WW parts had all been fitted and I was about to move onto scratchbuilding the remaining parts.
     
    The prototype is of German origin and has typically a lot of chassis detail and a high running board. There was no way to escape this and provide only minimal detailing – the quality of the body etches were crying out for going to town on the chassis as well. Before starting I got together some plasticard round sections (an Evergreen variety pack I think) as working in plasticard can be quicker, although less robust.
     

     
    I started with the axle boxes – and found some white-metal castings left over from my OO days – these are S-kits ones cut from the Bruninghaus spring units I retro fitted to my old Bachmann PNA 2-axle hopper wagons. I then framed these with some L-section plasticard with TINY fillets of 10thou plasticard. This was a maddening job but well worth it on the finished model – I could only manage 10-15 minutes at a time on this job! These were fixed with Superglue to the brass chassis.
     

     
    The damper units were put together from some L, U and round section plasticard from Evergreen. The dampers are just two diameters of round section glued together. These were constructed off the model, and fitted after the brake reservoirs and pipework were fitted. The brake reservoirs (different sizes each side) were fabricated from round tube plasticard and the ends filled with white Milliput Superfine. The banding on these is just plastic microstrip from Slaters. The pipework on the chassis is from 0.4 and 0.7mm brass wire. These parts were Superglued to the brass chassis, and then the damper units were fitted, also secured with Superglue. The small valves next to the larger of the two reservoirs were from a Hornby Class 31 detailing pack that I had in my ‘junk’ box, and the brake hoses each end are, I think, Heljan examples from the Class 33 detailing kit.
     
    In contrast, the bodywork needed a lot less work. The handrails were fashioned from 0.4mm brass rod – and used Gibson short handrail knobs along the bonnet, and I added an A1 Models turned brass horn on the cab front sheet. The ventilators on the bonnet top were from the N-gauge buffers on the KATO tram chassis and the exhaust stack is just a piece of round section plasticard.
     

     
    Applying the Halfords Plastic primer totally transformed the model and showed the level of detail I’d managed to work into the chassis to good effect. Whilst I had the matt black paint in the airbrush from painting Wasp I also painted the chassis and underside of the body on Viking. This was carefully masked to paint the buffer beams, again airbrushed with a mix of Humbrol orange and red to give a faded colour. Unfortunately I damaged the front step handrails at this stage, so these now need re-fitting. I’m considering drilling small holes in the footplate to make them more robust. Once the red was dry I masked the chassis and buffer beams and then mixed up a custom blue from Railmatch Regional Railways dark blue, Intercity silver grey and Humbrol yellow, and applied this with the airbrush.
     


     
    The next step with Viking will be to apply some gloss varnish to the edges of the buffer beams where I intend to add white chevrons, then detail paint the cab window surrounds and touch in other parts like the vacuum brake pipes before giving the model a coat of matt varnish. I can then fit the glazing, the roof and apply some weathering.
     
    I’ve ordered some 009 Greenwich couplings that will also be fitted to this model.
     
     
    So there you go – a bumper update – I hope you’ve enjoyed reading. More regular updates can be found in my blogger blogs (see the intro paragraph), and now I’m pondering whether to build a micro 009 layout to use these models on…
  6. James Hilton
    I got an hour clear to spend on Viking today...

     
    I only had a few parts left to fit in brass, namely the hooks on the buffer beans and the foot steps. These went on without too much drama, using low melt solder and holding the parts with tweezers or pliers whilst the solder took a second to cool.

     
    The steps at the front are formed from two pieces, but went together with ease. There are no locating half etches on the underframe for either the front or back but they went on ok, but I did have to keep tweaking them until the were straight, they're not perfect but the advantage is how strongly attached they are over the superglued ones on Wasp.

     
    Next I'll start building an axle box assembly and then see if I can take a mould from it to cast my the four I need, or whether it will be just as easy to build them all by hand.
  7. James Hilton

    From flat to 3D...

    By James Hilton,

    In just four hours modelling time the flat pack Worsley Works kit has become a diesel...

     
    It's gone together really easily actually, and I am pleased with the result. It's not perfect, but it's close enough and what a well proportioned, detailed and designed kit - it basically just falls together. You don't need instructions when something is as self explanatory as this!
     
     
    I always use 145degC low melt solder - it means you don't have to worry about damaging components from excessive heat with the usual 180degC stuff - plus with a good flux (I use Carr's green) you get really well flowing neat joints. I just have a basic Antex 25W iron - and find it fine for most work, with ample heating capacity. On top of that I have a selection of needle files and now a fibreglass pencil as well. Just goes to show you don't need expensive complex equipment to work in brass...

     
    The basic order of construction was chassis first, then the bonnet was folded up and the end soldered in. This was then soldered to the cab front. Front buffer beam next, before adding the bonnet assembly to the chassis. Then just building up the cab sides and finally the cab rear. It's gone together fairly square, although I added the grill to the bonnet front before it was fitted to the bonnet sides which means it's slightly skewed and off centre. I used solder to fill any gaps and tidied this up as best as I can with a file and glass fibre pencil.
     
    Still got some more brass bits to add - steps, pilots at both ends and rear window shields - then I'll drill out all the handrail holes and start on the detailing - most of which will be in plasticard. The roof goes on last as there is no access from underneath.
     
    The Kato chassis will be a push fit I think - and I will just make up some plasticard spacers to get it to ride at the correct height.

     
     
    Finally a shot to show comparative size to the Wasp - it's nearly as wide, and quite a bit longer - so both of these are quite big models in 009.

  8. James Hilton
    Well, despite 'Wasp' not being finished yet (it needs priming and painting before I can fit an interior) I've started my second 009 project...
     
    My other modelling at the moment is in G-gauge, as some of you know, and in particular Austrian prototypes. Whilst searching around for a second 009 project I stumbled across the Worsley Works kit for the IOMR Schoema diesel.


    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/IMR-Loco-17.jpg?uselang=en-gb
     
    A funny and odd looking prototype, but definitely European looking - and if I'm honest that's what swung it for me. I wanted a second etched brass kit, I've not got on well with white metal in the past, so this seemed perfect so a purchase was made. I decided to use another Kato tram chassis as it's cheap, the correct wheel base and also would fit entirely within the underframe leaving the bonnet clear for extra weight. Total cost now circa £40. Bargain!
     
    So this evening I opened it all up (mainly as a distraction from the G-scale Roll-wagen I'm building at the moment) and made a start. First up I modified the chassis so that it would fit - the foot plate has a distinctive step down for the cab. This now clears this perfectly, and the flat bits front and back will aid building up a mounting at a later date. The section I removed was cut out simply with a razor saw. The buffers were pulled out, end handrails cut off and the couplings just pinged out of their mountings. Simple job.

     
    Next I opted to start on the bonnet and fitted the 12 grills to the bonnet sides. This wasn't as difficult as I envisaged and I used copius quantities of Carr's green flux and 145degC solder, then tidied up with my new fibreglass pencil.

     
    I'll share more on this as it progresses alongside my other, larger scale projects

  9. James Hilton
    The wonderful thing about model railways is that it's a hobby with so many different areas to maintain your interest...
     
    Take the garden railway in these photos, a totally different scale, with a totally different prototype - needing lots of research. Then there is the building of a layout and buildings, then modifying or building your stock. Throughout the whole experience there is photography.
     
    Adjusting photographs to improve their realism is nothing new in the hobby. These days with multi mega pixel cameras and photo editing software features you can do miracles - however that doesn't get away from taking a good photo in the first place.
     
    The big advantage (sorry no pun intended) of working with G-scale in the garden is that you always have natural light to play with, allowing faster shutter speeds and the ability to soften the background by zooming in to the subject.
     
    All these photos were taken in colour - and were lovely - but by going monochrome it's removed the distractions and helps the eye even more naturally settle on the subject matter. Not only did I convert to monochrome but I have also adjusted the darkness, contrast and shadows using the standard editing features in iPhoto.
     
    Once happy with the settings the next step to improving realism is careful and complementary cropping out of foreground blur or background distractions.
     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     
    I think the results speak for themselves - I'm really pleased with them - the only thing missing is some 'steam', but I don't find the smoke effect generated by the locomotives built in smoke generators particularly convincing so until I can do some photoshop trickery these examples will stand as they are...
     
    As well as maintaining my external blog (http://ejklr.blogspot.com) for my garden railway project I also keep a 'photo' thread up to date on here from time to time (http://www.rmweb.co....cing-the-ejklr/).
  10. James Hilton

    Rebirth in 009...

    By James Hilton,

    I've finally 'taken the plunge' in 009 after many years in 4mm (both OO and a toe dipping in P4) and more recently a G scale (Austrian narrow gauge) project in the garden. The draw of British narrow gauge, in particular the L&B, the L&M and the W&L - big(ish) locos and English (or Welsh!) countryside, rolling hills, trees and not a bit of slate in sight... I have to admit I've been slowly drawn back into smaller scale modelling and have been browsing this site for many months...
     
    Who knows what my layout project will end up becoming - at the moment I have no real firm plans - just 1930s - 1970s, a Great Western influence and a freelance location - but with real engines, a mix of freight and passenger and also some standard gauge transporter wagons!
     
    So where to start - I've not built anything in brass for over 12 months and money is tight this side of Christmas so a Backwoods kit seemed perhaps a little ambitious. I found the Worsley Works scratch aid kit for the ex-admiralty inspection car, nick-named 'The Wasp', designed to fit on the Kato tram chassis - this seemed a perfect place to start so I ordered the kit from Allen and sourced a chassis via E-bay.
     
    It arrived before Christmas and I was initially suprised how little there was to the kit, but it is ONLY £15, and it is a tiny prototype. I've taken the Worsley parts as far as they go and the rest is to be scratchbuilt.
     
    For anyone who's not worked in brass before I thought it might be useful to list my tools - to show you don't need a miniature engineers's workshop to work with solder and brass...
    1 x Antex 25W soldering iron
    Carr's liquid flux
    Carr's low melt (145degC) solder
    Two old needle files (flat and triangular)
    1 x Mini-drill (12v - powered from my old H&M clipper for variable speed)
    A selection of small drills (0.3, 0.45, 0.7 and 0.9mm if I recall correctly)
    1 x Swiss Army Knife with small scissors
    1 x 'small' Hold and Fold tool (an extravagance but it does produce lovely straight sharp folds!)

    So upon opening the packet this is what you get...

     
    I start with using the Swiss Army Knife scissors to carefully cut the required parts from the fret - taking care not to bend anything. Once removed you can snip right up to the piece to minimise the filing required, then use a needle file and gently rub this along the edge of the fret to remove any trace of the tab.

     
    The tricky start to this 'kit' is to get the ends soldered into the body - there is a tiny half etched rebate but it's still very difficult to get it all aligned, held, and hot enough for the solder to flow. I always gently burnish the surface first, then use some flux before tinning both surfaces with a little low melt solder. Then 'assemble' the parts on a piece of cardboard or wood, apply some more flux and then the soldering iron. This should start to bubble the flux quickly and you'll see the solder liquify and hopefully join the surfaces. On other kits I've done this has been much easier and there was a little swearing after a failed attempt and lightly scorched skin!! However once together the soldered join is very strong and allows you to gently file the edge, removing any sign of the join and put on a slight rounding to the corner - that would be difficult with superglue.
     
    The other end is then a little easier. Once they're in I applied a 'fillet' of solder along the roof folds to stiffen it all up.
     
    On to the 'chassis' - very simple with a slot and tab construction. Again tinned and joined with plenty of flux. The end tabs need filing down afterwards so that the body can be mounted neatly.

     
    More swearing when trying to get the body mounting plates in neatly, but again worth doing in solder for the strength.

     
    The next job was adding the cab doors - for this I chose to use superglue, very sparingly, as I was worried with solder I'd end up with a gently curved edge giving the impression the doors were permanently welded to the body rather than a sharp crisp edge.

     
    The Kato tram chassis arrived. For £15 this is an excellent value drive unit, compact, smooth running and easily modified!

     
    First up, the chassis requires a little modification to fit - namely removing about 4mm from each end. I unclipped the couplers and then used an X-acto Razor saw to cut through the moulding - quick, easy and harmless to performance.

     
    The etched body then needs some adjustment - I've filed diagonals on all the corners, and extended the size of one of the cutouts. These were done by trial and error, both on the chassis and the body, until a good fit was achieved. In addition, the chassis has a couple of clips moulded either side of the motor -I filed these down a bit, as brass isn't too flexible. They still locate the chassis snugly, but makes pushing it in a lot easier!
     
    I've then moved back to work on the body. I used 0.45mm diameter brass wire for the handrails - superglued in position. I also applied a fuel filler panel, using a scrap from a Shawplan 4mm Class 37 diesel end grill etching. The same scrap also supplied part of a grill to use to replace the massively overscale 'radiator' grill on the original kit.

     
    The next thing is the sand boxes, these were built up from 10thou plasticard, 2 sides, front and top. I used a scrap sprue sliced up for the cover on the top and a sliver of plasticard as a handle on top of that. These were mounted using superglue to the chassis.

     
    The foot steps are small staples I've had in my scrap box for a long time. The perfect size without modifying, superglued on although if I'd have thought I'd have soldered them on before the sandboxes.

     
    The battery box is a small piece of 60thou plasticard from my off cuts box. Next to it are two small plugs/covers which came out of the scrap box. I think they were originally MU sockets from an American HO detailing kit.

     
    The axle boxes are quite simple, so far, just strips of 10thou micro strip. I'll apply a couple of water slide rivets to them after a coat of primer on them (if I remember!).
     
    The roof is 60thou plasticard, scored down the middle and then shaped with files and sandpaper. It's fixed with Superglue and will need a little filing and shaping to blend with the body.

     
    The gaps in the end roof have been filled and smoothed, I've fitted the door handles, door hinge cover across the top of each side, extra underframe details (including sand pipes) and my favourite, the windscreen wipers. All is scratch-built from off cuts of plasticard, waste kit sprue or brass rod.


     
    It's a long time since I've modelled in the smaller scales and I've enjoyed working with plasticard, small knives and files and just making stuff from scratch has been good fun. So much so that I've ordered another kit... The Worsley Works IOM Schoema diesel!
  11. James Hilton
    Welcome (back) to part 4 of my Class 66 project...
     
    The last entry was about 9 months ago (http://www.rmweb.co....he-under-belly/) and in that time a whole lot of life has happened, and a fun, energising and exciting new project, scale and prototype has inspired me (http://ejklr.blogspot.com).
     
    But for some reason I found myself picking up the dusty Class 66 this evening and getting further than just a casual inspection of the work completed so far...
     
    Actually if I'm honest I suspect I know the reason - it was reading of Jon's recent experiences with his Ultimate Deltic project (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/587/entry-7401-p4-class-55-deltic-conversion-hopefully-not-an-end/) - one that he started at the same time as I started this one - and it rekindled a sort of energy that I'd not felt for a long time. So I capitalised on it, and got stuck in.
     
    Digging out the old but familiar tools and materials was quite strange - and my hopes of making swift progress were dashed by the sudden realisation of the task in hand. Studying prototype photos my head was spinning on how to go about recreating ANY of the detail! Still I fired up Adobe Photoshop and stitched a set of photos together for the more complicated side, and made a start on just the very first bit - under the cab. This allowed me to dip my toe in the water again, cutting bending and filing materials that I've used since moving up to G-scale, but not with this accuracy.
     

     
    So what do you think, have I made a move in the right direction? If I'm honest, the excitement just isn't there like it used to be - I'm not sure why - this project has never really quite captured my imagination, and I still feel a little flat, a little dissappointed with the comprimises I have made by working in 4mm. Maybe that's it for me in this scale now, maybe a re-launch of this project for a week or so is what I need to finally draw a line under the detailing of small models...
     
    Time to reflect I think.
  12. James Hilton
    My G-scale journey continues and I'm beginning to really really enjoy working in this scale. It feels much more liberating and the bulk and familiarity of the materials you can use is really refreshing. So the EJ&KLR (read my blog - much more regular updates than on here) needs a shed.
     
    This project is very emotional because although these plans were discussed with my father, I never had a chance to show him the plans before he passed away on the 10th, earlier this month. Buildings and structures have always been a big part of his modelling, he scratchbuilt a massive GWR Engine Shed for our Didcot layout in my early teens, along with a workshop and coaling stage - all out of plywood and hardboard - then clad with plasticard. Later on he built two massive grain elevators for our Harris, Saskatchewan layout based on the Canadian prairies, this time MDF clad in plasticard.
     
    He was more of an artist than an engineer or draughtsman, a trait I expect that came from his life long passion for geography (and in particular teaching - inspiring and energising students - he went from teaching, to lecturing to Head of Department at Chester College and on the way wrote a best selling Geography A-level textbook). In this vein his structures were artist impressions - really realistic, but not ultra sharp or accurate scale models - they captured the emotion and character of the structures they represented with an imperfect warmth that I always found hard to replicate in my early teens. Even more recently I've been hugely frustrated by building structures in 4mm, never quite happy - although Rose Hill station was a triumph and a model that Dad reflected really captured the character perfectly of the suburban run down station.
     
    Everything in G is big though - so the idea of going back to my natural wood working, well wood bodging skills came to mind and a suitable quantity of MDF was purchased from the local DIY superstore. But what to build? There was a distinct lack of suitable plans to follow despite trawling the internet. On top of that the EJ&KLR is a freelance creation of both my father and my minds. I've always had in mind something along the line of the Welshpool and Llanfair in nature, but with a strong Austrian influence.
     
    So the first few days after he passed away I found myself doodling plans - and after about Mark V I had something which did it - captured the essence of what I wanted to create. It's got an element of the Welshpool and Llanfair running shed, along with Austrian Narrow Gauge sheds evocative of the last days of regular steam operation on these lines in the 1970s.
     

    Trains du Steyrtalbahn 04 [CC-BY-2.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], by trams aux fils., from Wikimedia Commons

    [CC-BY-2.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], by fairlightworks, from Wikimedia Commons
    After the purchase of the LGB U-tank 0-6-2 I knew the vital dimensions I needed to accomodate so I drew up a sketch in Adobe Illustrator to get the proportions right - something I'd not done previously. It all looked well, and so with a few tweaks of the geometry around the door and incorporating some construction notes I was ready to start.

     
    The weather today however has not been conducive to cutting up wood outside - however a small break in the rain (well it turned to drizzle) and I braved it and in under half an hour had all the pieces cut out (just by eye following pencil lines with my jig saw - no precision cutting here) and dry assembled in the kitchen to check the design had translated well to 3D! To give you an idea of the size this is 40cm long, and 21cm wide - about 25cm high. The sides are 12mm and the ends and base are 9mm MDF. Satisfyingly chunky.

     
    Once I was happy it all fitted together properly I took the sides and marked up the doorways and windows. These parts were taken back outside. To cut the windows you drill a hole in the middle and then use the jig saw to open the window up by cutting into the corners and then back along each edge. It sounds tricky but is really straight forward. I took the finished items back into the kitchen and wow - it looks superb. Absolutely perfect.

     
    This project is as much a tribute as it is therapy - and I'm finding the skills I'm using quite energising at the moment. Combining notebook sketches, computer drawings, woodwork - and creating something chunky, heavy with real mass - it's very satisfying and creative.
     
    So anyhow - what next? Well it's now glued and drying in the kitchen - no point of a photo of that - this evening I'll use watered down exterior PVA to wash all over the model to seal the MDF, paying particular attention using a thicker mix to the cut edges. Once this is dry tomorrow I'll apply a coat of primer. I need to complete the interior painting before I can glue on the roof!
     
    Questions, comments, thoughts, reflections, encouragement - all welcome. Can I all urge you to visit my blog (http://ejklr.blogspot.com) as well - as it's dead easy to update that straight from my iPhone, unlike posts on here which require a bit more thought, effort and the use of my Mac.
  13. James Hilton
    I really ought to start a seperate blog for this project, but for fear of duplication I'll stick to this one for now.
     
    So the large scale bug has well and truly bitten - so much so that I'm sat here contemplating selling some of my OO stock to make it pay it's way - however, in the short term at least I'm all spent up having no more disposable/savings before my birthday in August. So what's been happening in the last few weeks?
    It all started with the repainting of my LGB 2-axle coaches into a representation of Zillertalbahn coaches which I mentioned last time. The full description on how this was done is on G-scale central.

     
    I've since acquired some new bits and pieces - these workshop characters are perfect for my new engine shed (the plans of which are drawn up ready for construction to start). The station characters were picked by my daughter - and no doubt are the start of a small collection of people to populate her carriage. These seem quite good value for money from Bachmann Scenecraft at about £7 a pair.


     
    The big acquisition is this classic LGB U-tank. These are no longer made by the company and this is an example that was still made by LGB In the old factory in West Germany - and is brand new in the box. Lovely! It's not got the fine detail of some of the more recent releases, or the Bachmann US models, but it has a bunchful of character. The U-tanks were synonomous with Austrian narrow gauge with several examples still operating today on the preserved OGEG and Zillertalbahn. 298.56 itself is operated by Club 760.



     
     
    So what next? Next is building construction and now the U-tank has arrived I've got the dimensions for the engine shed for the EJ&KLR - following that will be a small station building. These will be fabricated from various sizes of MDF and weatherproofed - although they will not 'live' permanently in the garden. I'm going to base them on a sort of European/English hybrid as the EJ&KLR is in my mind, a UK based preserved railway inspired by the Welshpool and Llanfair. I'd like to build a second rake of coaching stock in the summer, but it's more important to make sure we've got the civil engineering aspects ready for the spring and so any spare cash will be diverted that way.
     
    So I hope sharing this stuff with you all is interesting? Questions comments etc welcome as usual. I've found this quite liberating, working in a large scale with no previous experience. The physical size and weight of the stuff is really intoxicating - it feels really heavy and real, and makes the 4mm stuff feel tiny. Working on the Class 58 last night felt SO fiddily in comparison. I would recommend it though, trying something new, something different to your usual modelling - be that prototype, scale, steam/diesel - it's refreshing and helps polish the skills you learn - everything is transferrable. In this case I can't wait to get all this out in the garden this summer!
  14. James Hilton
    This G-scale stuff is quite addictive and I'm finding that you can get as good a finish as 4mm...
     
    Part of me wonders whether to 'thin' and 'focus' the 4mm stuff sooner rather than later?
     
    Anyhow, this blog is about recent progress on the G-scale project, the EJ&KLR. I've 90% completed the brake van and started on the shunter. First up let's talk about the LGB post van that's been modified into this brake van. I've refurbished the lighting circuits, modified the body by removing the horizontal slats (from the window that now has a yellow frame below), resprayed the whole model in a dark grey with black roof and added my own custom decals (printed by John at Precision Labels). I've also sourced a replacement buffer for the one that was missing thanks to a kind chap called Dave from G-scale Central forum.
     
    From this...

    To this...


    Today I added a waft of satin varnish over the model - to seal the transfers and hide the gloss varnish from behind them - and tomorrow I'll fit the glazing - then she's finished!
     
    I also mentioned the Lilliput diesel shunter. This is based on an American prototype model made by Bachmann - and although the lamps and exhaust stack go a long way it's still fitted with a cut bar and running boards on the buffer beams. These are simply removed with screws - I've then re-fitted the screws in the holes which gives a rugged industrial look to the buffer beams in my opinion. I've also 'bodged' on some LGB locomotive buffers, but the shanks look too weedy so these will be beefed up tomorrow night. This model is still waiting on it's custom EJ&KLR name plates on each side of the cab - also tomorrow hopefully. It's a lovely runner but is visually quite a lot smaller than the rest of the stock - perfect for it's role on the line as it will only ever be used on short infrastructure and PW trains.





    Those that read the EJ&KLR blog will have seen that on Monday my father passed away in his sleep. He has been ill for a long time and this G-scale garden railway project was a last hurrah for us both and something that he'd really thrown himself in to - I hope that by continuing the work, and modelling in general, that it will be a fitting tribute to a man who was an inspiration to me - a wonderful father and someone whom I'll never forget.
  15. James Hilton
    When I started the LGB project a few weeks ago I wasn't sure if it was going to lead here...


    But it has - so this first blog entry charts my first steps in transfering my 4mm detailing, painting and weathering skills to the larger G-scale. For those who aren't familiar with garden railways LGB is approximately 1:20ish, running on 45mm track with mainly European prototypes.

    This project is based upon the ubiquitous LGB post van that has been in the range for 30 years. Today I have stripped her down to the component parts, removed the existing markings, removed the horizontal bars in the guards compartment and applied the first coat of primer - and it's looking good so far.

    One thing you notice as you strip down a LGB model is how substantial everything is - very well designed with lovely screw and clip construction. Simply remove the roof (it unclips), flip the body over and remove 8 screws and you're pretty much there...





    So here was the state of play prior to the modifications. The model is currently in the kitchen drying off before I start the top coats tomorrow. I'll share some further photos with you then.

     
    Questions, comments, encouragement (as always!) very welcome. What do you think of my G-scale diversion?

    (Don't worry 4mm modellers - I've not abandoned the scale - far from it - as I type this the Class 66 is back on the desk and the 58 is begging to be finished off so I can weather her...)
  16. James Hilton
    Today was the inaugural running of the EJ&KLR (http://ejklr.blogspot.com) and it has been a wonderful day.

    If success can be measured by the size of the smiles then it's been a triumph. The LGB starter set has run faultlessly, nice and quiet and smooth - and easy for my daughter to play with - expecially with the roof that pops off the coach to allow her to load up her Playmobil people.
     
    The more grown up LGB coaches are lovely and look wonderful behind the Stainz, and my little diesel shunter is also a fantastic runner - nice and heavy and lovely detail. A little 'American' but then it is based on the Davenport locomotive! Dad and I said we'd make up some custom EJ&KLR transfers for it we think.
    So here are some photos grabbed today in the heat of a running session - hopefully I'll have a chance to take some more arty shots in the next few days.

    Happy Christmas everyone!





  17. James Hilton
    I've started a Blogger blog to keep the history of this project in one place so please do check it out here: http://ejklr.blogspot.com/
     
    I will also make updates on this, my workbench thread for those 'smaller scale' modellers more interested in the journey than the details themselves.
     
    My father and I took a nostalgic trip down to Ontracks at Pontrilas today to collect the start of this project. It's a road trip that we used to make every year to see my Nan, Dad's step mother every Christmas so it was fun to make the journey together again.

     
    The model shop was very welcoming, and we picked up our stuff no problem. After a quick browse we headed for home via a stop at Llanfair for some photos and inspiration.


     
    A lovely day out and a reminder of how picturesque the Welshpool and Llanfair really is! Now roll on Christmas and a chance to play trains!


     
    EDIT (for Will):
    Revised MkIII plan - yet to go live on Blogger...

     
  18. James Hilton
    Countess coaling up [CC-BY-2.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], by fairlightworks (originally posted to Flickr as Countess coaling up), from Wikimedia Commons
     
    European coaches and small powerful steam locomotives on a picturesque line in mid Wales! The Welshpool and Llanfair has been a favourite of mine for many years - especially it's original steam locomotives with the GW rebuilt chimney, dome, safety valve and number plates. Chunky and purposeful.
     
    I have wanted an LGB garden railway for pretty much my whole life - I think it was my best friend Tim's Christmas present when I was 9 that started it all, an LGB starter set. His Dad soon purchased an extra locomotive and some second track and I remember the last summers of Primary School spending ages in Tim's garden created our very own railway properly playing trains rather than the finer scale modelling we both were into with our OO layouts.
     
    Fast forward twenty years and with Dad's retirement and Elly turning 3 this summer I'm in the mood for re-living those childhood memories, so I sit here with a 95% certainty that this project is a goer...
     
    So the EJ&KLR (Elly, James & Keith Light Railway) is born... with an LGB Big Train set and a Liliput diesel shunter plus some extra track. Where this journey will take us I'm not sure, but I'm hoping for lots of fun playing rather than modelling
     
    An exciting time - and I can't wait to share more with you all soon. I'll be posting regular updates on my standalone blog and on G-scale Central - along with occasional updates here on RMWeb. Questions, comments and encouragement ALL welcomed please!
    Diema and The Wasp [CC-BY-2.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], by fairlightworks (Diema and The Wasp), from Wikimedia Commons
  19. James Hilton
    For those of you who are not subscribers to Traction and haven't seen the 2010/2011 annual I'm pleased to share that Paxton Road is the 'modelling' feature in this years publication. I was chuffed to bits when Richard asked me to write a few words and take some photos for the annual.



    On top of the modelling mini-section there are a whole host of 'classic' traction articles spanning the decades - all of which I found a good read and of particular interest is the Cornish China Clay branch - something I might consider as another 'one day' project now!

    With Christmas approaching it's a good extra purchase to kill a few hours on Christmas day, or as a stocking filler for a friend or family member. Although I'm biased (as I'm in print) I do reckon it's worth the money - not much more than a regular magazine these days with a lot of content and very little advertising

    Let me know if you've read or seen it and what you think Comments questions and improvement suggestions always welcome!
  20. James Hilton

    Ready for action...

    By James Hilton,

    My Mainline freight liveried tractor is finished for the third time and I'm absolutely thrilled!

    I've really raised my game on this one and she's a worn worn super detailed stunner with faded paint and much finer detail then I've managed before. This evening saw the finishing touches and a dusting of grime over the weather finish applied by hand to the underframe and lower body. This has pulled the previous powder/paint/dry brush/wash finishes together an absolute treat.
    She started out as a Dutch liveried standard release. I've repainted, then weathered, then detailed the buffer beams, then narrowed the bogies, then re-touched the weathering, then added the finer detail and new brake cylinders and now airbrushed the final weathering. A lot of work but cumulatively a fantastic project and a model that is both unique and something I'm really proud of! Questions and comments welcome guys
     
    (DCC now too!)
  21. James Hilton
    I've had three models sat on Paxton Yard plank in my study for several weeks with NO progress but a surprise parcel from MG Sharp this week has spurred me back into action.

    I had some brake cylinders on back order and to be honest I'd forgotten about them so when they arrived it was actually a really pleasant surprise. So this evening I carefully dug out my modelling tools and made a start on bringing 37013 up to scratch.

    First up here is what the brake cylinders look like on a Bachmann 37/0 (or early revised EWS 37/4 and Transrail 37/5). Quite 'puny' and certainly not anything like the bulk of the real thing.



    So braking (pun intended!) out the Details Associates parts they instantly look more like the prototype and go together easily with just a little cleaning up of flash.



    I added the air pipes from 0.25mm brass rod - and I also took the chance to replace the original chain I had used with some finer 40 links per inch chain (also from Detail Associates - thanks Jon). The actuation arm is made from some scrap brass etch, cut to a point, threaded on and folded over - and the other end is attached to a hook that is then folded over made from 0.25mm brass rod. You can also see the knicker elastic (thank other Jon) used for the sand pipes added at BOTH ends of the bogie - the beauty of this stuff is it doesn't restrict bogie movement at all! The final touch is the foot step made from scrap stainless steel etch (I think it was from S-kits brake discs).




    So sat in Paxton Yard I think you'll agree it's worth while - I look forward to now adding some extra detailing around the fuel tanks before painting the details and blending into the existing weathering. Questions, comments and encouragment welcomed!
  22. James Hilton
    Welcome to part 3 (it's been a long time coming) of my re-working of a Bachmann 'Shed'!

    Work has been non-existent in the past few weeks, however before modeller's block became a problem I had made some good progress with the fuel tank area that it is worth sharing to show progress so far and the standard I'm aiming for in this area.
    I made extensive use of the 'Cannon and Co' EMD fuel tank detailing pack - along with various sizes of brass wire (including 0.25, 0.31, 0.9mm).




    Reference was made to Brian Daniel's excellent snaps which made detailing up the end of the tank a breeze!
    Now 'plastic' has been cut there is no going back so the next step will be to start to fabricate the pipe runs along the chassis frame - which I'm going to build up in stages leaving each sub-assembly loose until I'm sure I've got things in the right order - it's going to be a challenge but I'm looking forward to it.
  23. James Hilton
    When I come towards the end of a project, a kit, wagon, loco, building or layout I never seem to be able to quite 'finish' it...

    Usually I've already started several other projects before getting this far, certainly a contributory factor, but why can I never just 'finish' something. This is a case in point - my Judith Edge Sentinel - and I'm pleased as punch (although hate the fact that the weathering looks better in real life then I can capture in photos, and the 'streaking' looks ropey in some of these shots) with it! It's my first etched brass kit, my first P4 gauge locomotive and my first go at doing wasp stripes with just masking tape!!!




    I mentioned in my status earlier this week that it was now 99% finished? Well yes I soldered up some windscreen wipers from 0.3mm brass rod that I filed a flat edge into to represent the wiper arm and the angled tip. Hardly noticeable now but I know it's there and it was mega fiddly. Once fitted I gave the model a dusting of track dirt from the underside before mixing in a little black to do a dust from over head - the blue of the roof and bonnets was too bright - and it's worked a treat, pulling the powders and washes together.




    So what's left?
    I need to add the headlight lens, paint the marker lights with a gloss black and add the sand box filler hatches (when I find them). For now she sits on my shelf looking pleased with herself - as am I!




    So why don't I get on with it? I don't know... Currently I'm browsing Hattons for any bargains despite a 37, 58 and 66 all sitting on my workbench.

    Questions, comments, encouragement and reflections on my 80-20 rule most appreciated!
  24. James Hilton
    Yes!

    Last Christmas I got myself a Bachmann Dynamis and a RTR sound chipped Class 37 as a bit of a 'treat'. It was quite a novelty but it wasn't until earlier this year when I wired up Paxton Road to DCC that it really came to life for me - it really does make you 'drive' a locomotive unlike just playing trains.
    So the Railfreight grey body shell was swapped and she became a celebrity. I added my usual 37 bits (Hornby Class 50 detailing pack for the pipework, Hornby Class 31 sprung buffers, bogie brake chains) and went a bit further with the underframe - which one day I'll get around to telling the story...
    Anyway - whilst snapping the Sentinel and the Pacer it seemed rude not to grab a shot of the slightly work worn beast as she was in the twilight of her years circa 2007.
  25. James Hilton
    Excuse the terrible pun!

    I'm putting this one back on the shelf for a few weeks now - it's had me tearing my hair out on several occasions this week trying to fabricate the flush glazing for the cab fronts, and near disaster as one cab seperated from the body!


    I've finished transfers on her (which do look fantastic - a great job by John at Precision Labels - they were a custom set for me), painted the underframe all matt black (ready for weathering) and painted the small bodyside details (door open orange beacons at roof line, the buttons by the doors) and found some foam to use as a corridor connection.

    I've still got to do the interiors, wire the two cars together, fabricate some windscreen wipers and weather the two units... which can wait until I've got my sanity back!
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