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Mark

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Everything posted by Mark

  1. Quite plausible if the final destination of the train was Plymouth but it wouldn’t have been Deltic hauled throughout. The only Deltic that went to Devon pre preservation was a special to Paignton in the late 70’s which I think was originally intended to be Plymouth. Mark
  2. Making a mountain out of a mile hill!! The gap between the body and bogie is too large to accommodate the smaller wheels. The only question is how easy is it to reduce the gap when scale wheels are fitted and what radius the loco becomes limited to because of the smaller clearance between the outer faces of the wheels and the loco body. Mark
  3. I think earlier in the thread they stated that they had used smaller wheels as a compromise for trains set curves because the top of the wheel is inside the body. Obviously this will be worse in p4. Those who aren’t constrained with tight curves can hopefully put scale wheels in and lower the body on the bogies. That is what I am hoping to do although in the interim I also have a set of Accurascale wheels on order. Mark
  4. How about some 6 wheel milk tanks? Lots of options there LMS, Great Western, Southern, BR modifications like roller bearings, different types of tank and laddering and a long life span. Mark
  5. Shouldn’t that be give them 2.54cm and they will take 1.6km😀 Mark
  6. Some people make models of preserved lines so you can taylor them to your chosen railway but also legitimately run anything you like as visiting stock. Mark
  7. Unfortunately if there are limited suppliers available then they can call the shots. Sometimes you have to just take the pain. Working in a manufacturing environment I know how frustrating suppliers can be when they fail on delivery or quality especially those who occupy niche areas. Mark
  8. Going back to the pipe, I was looking at some pictures yesterday in Jack Slinn’s book and the pipe appears to run more in the centre of the sole bar and directly behind the steps. Is this something you are aware of? Mark
  9. I did a single car conversion but I used a mitre block to saw the body. Cut each part longer than necessary and gently dress it back. However I opted not use the door edges for the join. It is easier to disguise the joint on the plain surfaces without any detail. With care this means there is no trace of any join. I got away with no need for filler. The door method results in missing hinges or the gap potentially is slightly different either side of the door if you don’t get the cut right. Mark
  10. Probably a bit pedantic but would it be possible to extend the brake pull rod so that the split is behind the wheels rather than in front of the safety loop. I doubt it will affect the swing on the bogies much. Mark
  11. They had a Fowler 0-4-0 Diesel like this one from High Level Kits. It was fully lined in green. Mark
  12. The cowling is too deep on the old model. I have managed to modify one of mine by cutting a slice out with a slitting disc and then re-gluing it. That made a huge difference. I also produced an etching for the step behind the buffers which is missing from both models. Mark
  13. This is one made from MJT bits. I used Mike Trice’s painting approach but it has been pointed out that the base coat colour isn’t quite right and the variation between panels could be more marked.
  14. Possibly being originally ordered by the Great Western with right hand drive locos. Mark
  15. I just use green label or red label. Provided you clean the flux off straight after the joint has been made I have never had any problems with corrosion. Just make sure the metal is cleaned when you start. I used to find the lids on the brown label bottles disintegrated after a few years on a shelf. Mark
  16. Have you considered doing your own mix? Start with white and add a tiny bit of yellow until you achieve the shade of cream you want. Mark
  17. Thanks. That is useful to know. I will stick with 18000. Mark
  18. One Question that strikes me is how long did it actually run in its gas turbine guise. The description from Rails says1953 along with other sources but it wasn’t withdrawn for conversion to electric until 1958. Is 1953 a typo in the original description or did it really spend five years in store before being withdrawn? Mark
  19. I use 0.3mm brass. The key is to have a nice range of movement and very low stiffness. I normally add a coil to mine which allows for plenty f relative movement on a compensated chassis. I normally rest them onto the flange. The images illustrate it best. Mark
  20. I have been looking at doing an etched version. Mark
  21. I think pretty well all the MK1 coaches left in service by then were dual braked. Mark
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