traction

Just print out the OO kit at 51.35%, yes it will be small and there will be a bit of wasted space on the A4 page but it still works:- This shows the OO hardstanding and the N-gauge hardstanding. Cheers Ian

All of my layouts I've buily have been designed and built purely for the children to have a go. The controllers sit at the front and the children just come up sit down and play trains. The photo was from Mansfield 2013. They can use either of the Selects or the big touch screen running Hornby Railmaster Its before we opened as normally its surrounded! Cheers Ian

The Hornby Select with V1.5 firmware will also support 28 functions as well. The Bachmann Dynamis, any version (with Pro box or the new Ultima) will only support 20 functions and there is no way to upgrade the firmware to get it to support 28 functions, apparently its a hardware issue and not software. Cheers Ian

Hi Ade, I did this in N-gauge some time ago, not sure if its what you're referring to. This was built in N-gauge would like to build this in OO at some time, would look quite something I reckon:- Full thread below:- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98047-so-youre-going-to-buy-a-train-set-update-18072015/?p=1958122 Cheers Ian

This is the leaflet that comes with the Railroad Mallard onboard TTS sound:- Hopefully it helps understand some of the CV's Cheers Ian

Hi, Thanks for that, I was actually looking at that this morning as the corrugated cardboard edges are all exposed on the base. I will cut the Kraft paper down and cover all of those edges as well, as you say gives it a bit more protection. Thanks Ian

In theory it should be fine..........in theory! I could use some more Kraft paper and cover all the sides and edges with this, then paint the whole thing with PVA to seal it all up. Should be OK for a while then. I can see it getting knocked about a bit as an exhibition layout but as a static at home layout I can't see why it wouldn't last. For a shunting plank layout which would be much smaller should last very well. Cheers Ian

Its one of those never ending issues with baseboards. What material, how to make them lighter etc. Well having seen the post about train in box I thought I'd have a go at making a cardboard baseboard. First thing finding suitable cardboard. It would need to be double wall at least, but then what type of flute?? This shows two thicknesses of double wall corrugated cardboard, one is about 8mm thick and one is 4mm thick, but you can see the two different types of fluting. on the thinner cardboard the fluting is much tighter on the one side, which having tested by kneeling on it (scientific I know!) seems to make it better at resisting crushing from the side. The two photos above show the difference on the flat side as well, the smooth side has the tighter fluting the side which shows the mosts ribs has the larger fluting. I decided to use the 4mm cardboard and laminate two strips together, so the thicker fluting sides are glued together which leaves the smoother flat sides showing, any joints were wrapped in heavy duty thick Kraft paper with PVA glue. I did this for all of the frame work then notched out where all these frames would lock together It was just a case of using wood glue in the joints and slotting everything together. I did also use a hot melt glue gun which would hold everything square while the wood glue dried. Right angle corner pieces were also used to get everything square. I fitted these close to the top so it gave extra area to glue the top sheets to. That is one sheet of the 4mm thick double wall cardboard, I glued two of these to the top once the glue had dried I glued another couple of sheets to the top of these so the top baseboard was again 8mm thick with the large flutes glued back to back. All edges and where the beams were slotted into the sides were covered again with the thick Kraft paper cut into strips and glued with PVA. You could use the preglued roll of tape with the reinforcing inside if required. I added a few extra diagonals just to prevent twisting again PVA glue but held in place with holt melt glue, saves me holding everything in place for ages! Finished article just sat on top of my other layout. It's very light weight but also seems more than capable of being used for my new layout. I'm sure that if you could find some triple wall cardboard sheet it would be stronger still but then you have the issue of trying to cut through that extra thickness and still make a decent cut, which when running in line with the flutes isn't always easy! Cheers Ian

Yes it will as long as the firmware is on V1.5! Which is better than a brand new Dynamis Ultima which can only access 20 functions and can’t be upgraded to access all functions as it’s a limitation of the hardware according to Bachmann when I asked. Cheers Ian

For the last few years I've only actually had the Selects connected up to each other and not even taken the Elite! Again I've never had any issues. I know you are a dealer I've bought many items from you, but I dont and wont agree with what you are saying as from my experience after using the Select and connecting up Selects to use as Walkabouts for many years with children hammering them at exhibitions and never having an issue. If you know the limitations they are not that bad. At least it gives a good introduction to DCC, which gives access to all functions, which some other DCC systems still don't give you. You can get a feel for operating points via the controller as well. I wouldn't pay full price for one as I think there are better value controllers on the market. As the OP can get one for £20 then if upgrade required, another £15 still a cheap controller for £35. The Bachmann EZ Command can only operate 10 functions and no point control, but it still does give a good introduction to DCC. The reason for the Select upgrades was for bug fixes( and many DCC systems have upgrades for bug fixes not just the Selects, there are also a number that dont have any available updates so to say having them upgraded says it all is also somewhat misleading!) To be fair looking at the update files, most of the updates have been enhancements anyway. I also have the NCE PowerCab, EZ-Command, MRC Explorer with gaugemaster prodigy advanced² wireless conversion set, Hornby Elite and Bachmann Dynamis Ultima and have used and sold many more, so this is not an I love Hornby thing! I personally have still not really found an ideal DCC system for ALL possible situations though. Cheers Ian

I couldn't disagree more with that very sweeping comment! I have 3 Selects connected to the Elite and never had any trouble with any of it, and theyve been in use on a childrens exhibition layout for at least 4 years and they do get hammered at exhibitions with the children playing with them. The decoders are all difierent makes as well. All of the Selects have been sent to Hornby over time to have the latest firmware installed as and when released but I've still never had an issue with any of them. At £20 for what you intend to use it for then I think its perfectly fine as a starting point. Cheers Ian

Very basic, very reliable secondhand cheap. Bachmann EZ-Command, will only control 10 functions along with 10 locos or 9 locos and one DC loco. Can't get more basic than that, but they are virtually bomb proof. my review is here, along with other makes which will be worth reading:- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106867-dcc-controller-list-basic-review-by-owners/?p=2156485 Cheers Ian

When I was in last month, I was told they are revamping the display area so are running stocks down. They are going to have to go some now as Rails have certainly set the bar for a cracking showroom!!! Will be interesting to see what Hattons actually come up with. Cheers Ian

Reading the ECoS manual you would be able to create your track plan on the ECoS display, clicking on the relevant point would indeed activate it. This would give you what you need and it should all be compatible with your current DCC concepts accessory decoders. I think that the track layout diagram is accessed by another button, so you wouldn't see the locos on the same screen as the track plan, but then you wouldn't really need to as you have two big speed controllers to control the locos. Hopefully someone who has an ECoS will be able to tell you and maybe show a screen shot of what the display looks like when on the track plan to show what loco information there is displayed as well. As I said previously RailMaster will only work with the Hornby Elite or the Elink though. FCwilt did give a link to Traincontroller software which although very good would be another learning curve and more expense. Choices choices, all exciting and really up to you now. Cheers Ian

To run Railmaster you can only use the Elite or Elink so they are the only two items you can use, if thats want you like and want to keep using it. You have done everything I would do, have you tried completely disconnecting the Elite so that the only input is the power, then tried connecting just two wires to the programming track and seeing if that works, if that still fails to read everything, sounds like somethings gone inside. You can sometimes hear the click of an internal relay switching over when using the programming track, it could be this thats gone faulty, have you tried programming on the main to see if that works? I would send the Elite back to Hornby for repair, they are usually very good and reasonable charges. If you need to keep running and want to use Railmaster then you could always look at buying the ELink as back up, plenty cheap enough on Ebay. My first port of call as said above would be send it back to Hornby for repair if possible, see what the cost is and then make a choice if you want to buy a new one, they may even offer you a deal on a new one to replace the old one if its beyond repair, you never know without asking, sounds like the Elite is fairly new as well if you think the guarantee has just run out which may help if you tell them that. The Elink will be much cheaper to buy than the Elite but I like having the versatility of being able to run the layout from the Elite as well. Cheers Ian

If you like sounds then be very careful which system you go for! I have many DCC systems and IMHO none that I have are very good for function control. The Hornby Elite will make you want to throw it out of the window when trying to operate many sound functions, I actually plug the Selects in and use them as walkabouts and to operate sounds as it’s easier. As a starter set have a look at the Signa-Track ACE 5amp system as that to me has one of the best control screens for operating sound functions. It is going to be Loconet compatible so Digitrax throttles might be possible, but other Loconet devices should be OK. You can also get driver handsets from Signa-track that locos can be assigned to, up to 4 can be connected. Go to there web site and down load the instruction manual and the update manual. I would go to shops and have a play with as many as you can, download the manuals and have a read, if you struggle following the manual, think how you will get on with it. Above all go test some with sound locos and see what fits you best. Cheers Ian

We’ve had more snow overnight but doesn’t look too bad. Car is loaded and off we trot! Hopefully see you all soon. Cheers Ian

No, you can't do that and no there is nothing else you can use as a Slave. When I've used the Elite and Selects as walkabouts I just make sure all the addresses are 1-59 on the Elite......thats still a lot of locos anyway!!! You can still name them in the Elite as well. It just means its easy to use the two types of controller as both can use the two digit address. Cheers Ian

Your thinking it wrongly, it just means that a pair of cables are twisted together. They go to the same pins at each end of the cable. So above both plugs are the same orientation with the release clip towards the camera. The wires are positioned from the top downwards:- Blue with white stripe. Orange Orange with white stripe Blue Twisted pair in this sense means that you have four wires in the cable. These four wires are two pairs, and each pair of wires is twisted together. Hence the name twisted pair. Its to stop interference as Rob has said the outer two wires are power, inner two wires are for data transfer(usually) In the photo of the Hornby Cable above you have:- Orange wire Orange&White stripe wire Blue wire Blue&White stripe wire. The pairs are twisted together thus:- Orange wire and the Orange white stripe wire is one twisted pair. Blue wire and the Blue&white stripe wire as the second twisted pair. The wires go to the same pins in the plugs at both ends of the cable, that is they don't cross over. The picture below helps as it shows a four twisted pair cable, if you stripped back the outer case of the cable at each end and saw this each wire can go to the same pin at each end its just the wires that are twisted together. Hope this helps, No idea why Hornby systems need this but if you use the flat cable it does cause interference and problems. Cheers Ian

It depends on which adapter you are looking at using. The Hornby Adapter is a two socket with a trailing lead with a plug on the end. Plug this into one of the sockets on the back of the Elite then use the twisted pair cable to connect into this and any Selects being used as Walkabouts. It does look like this adapter socket is using a flat wire to connect into the Elite, but its very short so that might be why it works OK. If you are going to use the NCE UTP plate then I would use twisted pair from the Elite to the plate and twisted pair from the front of the plate to the Selects being used as Walkabouts. Cheers Ian

Basically Yes if you want them to work reliably. In the manual it shows the 2 port adapter being used, so plug that adapter into one of the ports on the back of the Elite you will now have three ports. Use the correct twisted pair cables to connect the Selects to the Elite. Cheers Ian

If you have an oval of track, the track is already a loop so having the bus wires as a loop wont make any difference. Same with bus terminators I've never fitted those and never had a problem. Its one of those things that someone has mentioned and it seems to have stuck, I've read comments about not having a loop and fitting terminators but also read you can have a loop and you don't need to fit terminators. My first point still stands though, if you have an oval of track then the track is already a complete loop so can't see why having the bus wires open ended will make any difference. One day someone will actually do a proper test and show the actual results so we can all know once and for all what the ideal is, I've had loop bus wires on all of my layouts and all has been OK. All of my layouts are very small though as I think this may have been mentioned of maybe causing a problem. Cheers Ian

As you've said that the locos will have sound then you need to be looking at something that has easy sound functions. I have the Powercab and many other DCC controllers and sound function operation is cumbersome on most and plain hateful on others! So I would say the Piko Smart control made by ESU or ESU's own offering which is called CabControl(not available here as yet, I think?) Wireless handheld cab with nice big touch screen, functions can all be set to momentary or latching with symbols related to each function. Large round motorised speed control knob. Having used lots, not really found a handheld cab that is great for function control, Powercab not bad but still not great IMHO compared to these two. What would be interesting to know, is the difference between the Piko Smart control made by ESU and ESU's own offering!!! Cheers Ian

The Select will reprogram any address on the main, you don't need to know the address. Place loco on track press and hold the SELECT button until LA flashes(which means Loco address) Type in address number 1 to 59 ( Address 0 is for analogue loco address 59 to 99 is for accessory decoders) the address number will flash in the display press the SELECT button to write the address, RED LED will flash 7 times, if it flashes 8 then try again. Make sure no other loco is on the track, it will program all of them! He wont be able to read or write any CV's using the Select, if that's what he is using. Cheers Ian

As someone who has the Elite and 3 Selects I have to say I've not had any of the issues that many on here have HEARD about. I've never had an any issues with any of them in the last 9 years, I have just kept the firmware up to date. Used regularly at exhibitions with the Elite as master and two Selects connected as walkabouts for the kids to use. They have had a real hammering and are still working fine, using a range of manufacturers loco decoders and accessory decoders, such as Team Digital - SMD82, Hornby, NCE snap it and DCC concepts to name a few. The Elite is very menu driven, and the function operation is plain hateful, the Select function operation is much better. So no, I've not had any issues with any of them, but they are over priced for what they are, and there are better controllers out there. But if you can pick up a Select for a good price second hand and make sure the firmware is up to date they aren't a bad starting point. The main thing with the Select is the limited CV programming, it would be nice to be able to at least reset a loco decoder, other than that I don't find it too bad. I do have the NCE Powercab, EZ-Command, MRC explorer with Gaugemaster wireless conversion set. To be honest I don't think any of them are very good for function control!! Cheers Ian