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traction

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Everything posted by traction

  1. A different type of Signal Box now available:- https://scalescenes.com/product/r010a-arp-signalbox/ Cheers Ian
  2. A DCC fiited loco will run on DC, if the chip can support it and its been switched on! You can change a CV to switch off running in DC, to prevent the loco from running away at fast speed when using DCC. As you don't have a DCC controller, I would as you've said refit the blanking plug and test that way, at least you will know the loco is working correctly. Cheers Ian
  3. It always makes me smile when people say you can't or shouldn't use a ring main as the power bus. All of my layouts are using a ring bus as all of the layouts are complete ovals, never been an issue, if it was I wouldn't do it. Seems rather backwards to have a radial bus if what you're connecting to is a complete ring! Although I could be missing the blatantly obvious. Cheers Ian
  4. The new China Clay facilities kit has now been released! Looks like another cracking kit. Link below:- https://scalescenes.com/product/t029-china-clay-loading-facilities/ Cheers Ian
  5. Hi, Ron is correct my review was using the AC power supply that comes with the old EZ Command controller. By replacing the supplied AC power supply with a variable type I was able to lower the input voltage which in turn dropped the track voltage to a much better level. I was measuring about 20v on the track, way too high. So you do need to worry about the input voltage, with this OLD type power supply. Cheers Ian
  6. Wrong area of forum. First read the posts that pretty much ask a similar question as the one you are asking. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/178-dcc-help-questions/ Once you've read the threads in that sub section, there are lots asking which controller is best, you may be better equiped to ask the right sort of question from the answers given in previous replies. Cheers Ian
  7. Just to update this, I made a mistake and knelt on the cardboard top which created lots of uneven areas. I couldn't make this flat so ended up taking the baseboard apart which it turns out proved a nightmare! It resulted in the destruction of the frame! The cardboard frame itself was very strong and I will build another layout using this method. I won't use cardboard as the flat baseboard top though as its too prone to being damaged. I have since built a small N-gauge layout using the cardboard frame as a baseboard and its worked incredibly well very strong and light weight. I wanted to try something else and as my local Wickes was selling 3mm thick MDF cheap I thought Id give it a try:- The 3mm thick MDF sheets were 1800mmx 607mm and £5 a sheet! thought it worth a try for that money. These can be cut with a Stanley Knife just run over the cut line a few times and job done. Again I half cut each length and slotted them together using wood glue. For the top I used 25mm thick Jablite polystyrene, its very cheap for a big sheet and light weight. When the plaster cloth etc has been put over it where required it should work very well. The complete baseboard is 1500mm x 1000mm and its very light weight and this time its flat! You could easily use the 50mm Jablite which would probably be even better for not that much extra weight. Cheers Ian
  8. Do they? really? I'm sure lots of words come to mind!! They did for me
  9. What about this one has 5 days left to run? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lenz-Digital-Plus-Set100-DCC-Controller-Version-3-6/323746907130?hash=item4b60d1c3fa:g:ve0AAOSw6JNck5zL&frcectupt=true Cheers Ian
  10. Apparently V1.6 firmware will not be available until August/September time when I asked HH the other day. Cheers Ian
  11. I didn't think the NCE wireless system had the clearance to be used in the UK, that's if you're in the UK? I've not used it myself but seen it used and it looks to work perfectly well so you shouldn't have any problems. When you say you might have a go with the wireless set up does that mean you've yet to buy it? All of the other responses are for fitting an extra panel and RJ12 connector cable so you can plug in an extra cab which would be cheaper if you've yet to buy the wireless equipment. Cheers Ian
  12. Thats sounds like the unit. Did you take the wires out of the connector block or just unplug the block? If you left the connector block plugged in, try unplugging that and turning the power on, if it still shorts out I think it will be a trip back to USA for a repair. You could try a different power supply it does say 13.8v DC 3.5amps. I don't think the current will be an issue for testing purposes but you would need to get close to the 13.8vDC to power the controller up just to prove it really. Might be worth a try before shipping off for repair. Cheers Ian
  13. I would also turn off DC running to be on the safe side:- Cheers Ian
  14. Thats what I'm thinking have you tried disconnecting all the wires going into the back of the DSC51 and turning it on? That should prove it as nothing will be connected to it. Does it do it everytime yo uturn it on when connected to the track? Cheers Ian
  15. That sounds like its picking up a short circuit and shutting the DCS51 down. From the manual:- If you take the loco off the track does the controller start up and behave correctly and then only go mad when the loco is placed back on the track? I would check everywhere for a possible stray bit of wire that could cause a short circuit, even going into the terminals at the back of the controller. Cheers Ian
  16. The layout is as ready as it can be for another mad day. Ran out of time to get all of the detailing done, will hopefully get that sorted over the next few months. Still the children playing enjoyed it. Cheers Ian
  17. A very busy first day! Lots of very interested parents, grandparents all asking questions about building a layout and lots of excited children playing trains. Lots of food consumed, must have been a good day. Look forward for tomorrow. Cheers Ian
  18. At least I wont let the side down as I will probably be doing more than sticking the last bit of texture down at the show!! Looks very good Ian
  19. The WiFi conversion kit handset is the new Back lit type. Well the DCC51 is.
  20. I think thats incorrect. ZTC did the 505 and 511, before TC took over. Taunton Controls launched the new improved 611 They are now working on the "TC 612 Ambassador" Cheers Ian
  21. Yes, but you would have got a good deal on the subscription or a bonus bunch of gifts when you took out the subscription, you would also get the DVD I took out the digital subscription starting from issue Feb 2019 which includes access to all the DVD content. This was at a massive saving, so I wouldn't expect to get any of the goodies with the newsstand copies. The nice thing is if you go to the warners web site store everything thats included free with the magazines is available to buy as an individual item, to me this is perfectly acceptable. https://www.world-of-railways.co.uk/brm/store/reader-offers/ Cheers Ian
  22. Just to let you know Pocket Mags have a huge sale on. 12 month subscription to the digital version of BRM is now only £28.99 down from £44.99 https://pocketmags.com/british-railway-modelling-magazine Very cheap IMHO. Cheers Ian EDIT:- Garden rail is also down:- £25.99 down from £39.99 https://pocketmags.com/garden-rail-magazine That means you can subscribe to both for not much more than subscribing to one! Merry Christmas!
  23. Hi, The Bredon layout in later revisions of the setrack plan book are using curved points so that the complete layout could be built using set track. Yes curved points do cause problems, when I've used them you can get derailments, there doesn't appear to be any logic to it but I don't like using them. The photo below shows how it was in the first issue of the Plan book that Paul did. This uses a couple of lengths of flexitrack to allow all of the joins, but all straight points this may be a better work around for you.:- Hope this helps. Cheers Ian
  24. This might give you some more inspiration! Link :- https://scalescenes.com/ Enjoy! Cheers Ian
  25. Hi, The IR detectors are just plugged into the main Dynamis Ultima box. Just put them around the layout at strategic points so the handsets can see them. I've found with mine they can have a wide arc left/right but if you lift or lower the handset too much the signal drops dramatically. The handsets just need to have the ID number changed in the menu, so each handset has its own ID number. Trying to get hold of handsets was OK you just need to browse many retailers to see who has stock available. The IR detectors are very thin on the ground I managed to get two both from different retailers as nobody had any. Also shop around the price difference is quite something. When I asked Bachmann about this a few months ago they did say to check local retailers as they didn't have any stock and weren't going to be ordering another batch for a few months. Cheers Ian
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