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Hi Jerry, Yes I can add you to the list Thanks for the interest Cheers Mike

A quick note to those of you I haven't contacted yet, it's time consuming packing the chassis so I'm contacting people a few at a time If anyone hasn't yet expressed an interest and would like to there's still plenty of time as I need to order a second batch of etches soon to meet the demand The support for what started as a personal project has been overwhelming and I'd like to thank everyone for their interest in my work. Regards Mike

A quick update. I've taken delivery of a batch of etches and I'm working on a parts list and some basic instructions . I'll be in touch with everyone who's expressed an interest over the next few days to sort out delivery details. One minor issue that has cropped up is that a few holes on a couple of parts haven't etched properly, although there are mirrored parts that can be used to help drill out the holes in most cases. I think I can also cover U.K. delivery in the price, for those of you overseas it'll depend whereabouts you are but the cost will come down by the same amount Cheers Mike

A quick update with the pricing on the etches. I've got a quote back from the etching company and it's looking like the cost per chassis etch will be £36 plus postage If you've expressed an interest in one (or more) chassis please let me know (preferably by PM) if you're still interested and I'll try and work out postage costs depending on destination and number ordered Thanks for looking in Regards Mike

So it's been rather too long since I last updated this thread. I've made a final revision to the artwork for the chassis and put a parts list together I should be able to put together some basic instructions and a few photos to help with placement of parts soon I can also list the parts I designed the chassis to work with (most are below) There are options for things like wheels and crankpins designed in but I've only built a chassis as originally designed If you are still interested in one or more of these etches (with basic instructions) please let me know and I'll get an idea of costs for a batch The chassis is designed to be built rigid to 14mm gauge (with washers adding 16.5mm gauge should be possible), with Gibson or Romford driving wheels and crankpins Bogie wheels are 7mm disks from kbscale Motor and gearbox is up to personal preference, I used a High Level 54:1 slimliner + with a D3 drive extender, the motor is a Mashima 1428 Valve gear rivets will be needed along with a selection of wire sizes Thanks Mike

Is this it? https://www.tillig.com/Produkte/produktinfo-02926.html Quite a few beer tokens mind....

Only the photo in post 17, the gearbox is a High Level 54:1 slimliner + with a D3 drive extender, the motor is a Mashima 1428 The drive extender runs forward and up at an angle with the gearbox vertical in the firebox The motor is in the boiler with an amount of metal carved out to accommodate it. I hope this is helpful I really need to crack on with another of these and get a production version sorted once my available spare time increases a bit Cheers Mike

Another photo from day 2 of the show

All set up at Tracks to the Trenches at Apedale

Thanks everyone for the interest, it's been a bit of a shock how many of you have enquired about my chassis design I guess I'd best post an update on where I am with these chassis. So far I've got one finished (see above) it doesn't look like I'll get much chance to build another to make a comprehensive set of instructions before the tracks to the trenches show in May. If a basic parts list and a few photos would be enough for you I might have chance to sort the costs for a chassis before May. Cheers Mike

4000 might do it.....

Tonight I have made a start making barbed wire reels out of 1/64 plywood The cross is 8mm, and the reel is 8mm wide

The traction engine and howitzer are both from Duncan Models, see below: http://www.duncanmodels.co.uk/price_list_military_equipment1.htm http://www.duncanmodels.co.uk As far as I know they should still be available.

I've finally managed to complete my first Baldwin with the new chassis etch It'll be running on our O14 layout at Goathland show again tomorrow. Once we've got past our next show in just over a month, I'll be in a position to order some more etches, then I can build the next one and come up with some instructions.

A quick break for the crew of the new Baldwin between duties

Wow, time has really flown since our last update! We're busy getting the layout ready for it's next exhibition in Goathland this weekend See here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/99195-goathland-2015-18th-19th-july/ Next up after Goathland is Scarborough club's show in Pickering in August http://www.sdrmweb.co.uk/Exhibition_2015.php Thanks for reading Mike

I dispute that! I cleared all the meat on my plate, all the other stuff however...

It was a valiant effort though

Hang on, Crook of Devon? Where has John got us going now?

Thanks All of the photos I've seen of them in original condition have disk wheels. As ever, working from photos is key! I'll get on to the etchers and find out the likely cost, I'll be posting details on here and NGRM when I know. It's unlikely I'll have time to write instructions for a couple of months, we have 2 exhibitions coming up with the layout (which needs quite a lot of other things finishing) and ideally I want to take photos of each stage of the build of the next chassis, now that I have an idea what I'm doing!

I'm hoping that this will go round a 27" (scale 30 metre radius) curve without any difficulty, I managed it with a Hunslet 4-6-0 (just) and the Baldwin will hopefully be easier to sort. If we were starting to build our layout now and didn't have the wrightlines kits already, I think we'd be using the 3D prints. I think it should be easier to hide the motor and gearbox in one of those as well since a smaller motor should be possible. One thing I am changing is the derailment beams, I'm replacing the cast parts with plastic. Hopefully as and when derailments happen it'll reduce the number of short circuits that occur. As promised, here's a photo of the loco as it is at the moment I should be able to take a couple of photos of the chassis itself later tonight. Edit: If I have my calculation correct, with a 1428 motor and 54:1 gears, the scale top speed is about 16mph

That sounds like a good option. The 5 of these chassis that we're constructing for our layout will all be rigid. The rods are jointed so some movement should be possible. If using the wrightlines kit, I've found the centre of balance is slightly behind the lead driving axle, which is likely carrying a lot of the half kg or so of the loco's weight

The easiest way with the etch as it is would probably be to elongate the bearing holes. Hornblocks would be tricky. A beam between the front two axles may be possible with a fair bit of work. The frames end up approximately 1.5-1.7mm thick since there are 4 layers of etch each side. I had considered making the chassis compensated but it's taken me 3 years to get this far and it would need a lot of extra work to the CAD drawings. If the loco had used plate frames rather than bar frames it would have been easy and I'd have designed it in from the start. As it is, it's basically a load of holes bolted together so there's hardly any room for hornblocks without getting some custom made

Hi Jeff, It should fit, the extra width would only be 1.25mm each side and it appears the cylinders in the wrightlines kit may be slightly over width to accommodate 16.5mm gauge As a result I've had to bend the con rods outward slightly to fit. The etch does include all the motion. Tonight's test run went brilliantly, I may need to adjust the centring on the front coupling a bit but I was expecting that, photos should hopefully follow tomorrow

Thanks Giles, Very clever, I hadn't thought of that. I've ended up using wheels 7mm diameter rather than 8mm, they don't look too under scale. The photo of the etch in my post above shows how I've got round the clearance issue, the innermost layer of the frame is the correct depth (and prevents being able to see right through) The outer layers all have an area removed to clear the rear bogie wheels. The loco will have to handle a scale 30 metre radius curve (like the real thing) so I wanted all the clearance I could get!