Scottish Modeller

Hi guys, Thanks for all the numbers! Now just need to sort out which ones were 'Scottish' whilst still in Dutch.... Thanks

Hi all, All of a sudden - as if my comments about MRC decoders had travelled down the wires to a loco - I have an odd problem with an MRC decoder. MRC 1633 Brilliance sound - Diesel EMD Modern I can program this on every DCC system or programmer that I have available. But - as soon as it comes off the track - it forgets all the programming and reports back as DCC address 0. Any one got any ideas - or is this one to send back or bin if it's not accepted as a return. I bought it more than 30 days ago - hence my comment about not being accepted under the returns policy. Thoughts?

Hi Neil, Interested in what you said about New Haven GP9's.... Has anyone released the correct body with the water tanks? I've just checked my one and it's not got them! So - that'll be something else to get modified then! Thanks

Hi Jay, The decoder does not have plugs - they look like they are though! They should be slip over plastic things that trap the wires against the circuit board to make the required contact. Taking the decoder out will get round any possibility that there is a duff capacitor - it would be most unusual if there was. Of course - if you are up in Scotland next weekend - bring it along to the Perth Exhibition and we can have a look at it for you! Thanks

Hi Jay, OK - Yes it looks like a QSI decoder to me! With stay alive capacitors to avoid loss of sound at railbreaks. Don't think it's factory fitted as I cannot find any reference from Intermountain showing that they do this. The product sheet would have given you the specific CV settings and functions used for the decoder on this model. Most of the details are on the Intermountain website. http://www.intermountain-railway.com/ho/loco/holoco.htm This includes CV and other settings. Doing a full reset on a sound chip isn't recommended as you will loose any 'special' CV settings that were set up for the loco. I would try the loco on DC - see if it works, check what power it uses and if it's still using too much power - suspect the motor. If it doesn't take a lot of power - suspect the chip. Most DCC Sound chips turn out to be unrepairable - replacement is normal. But - there are exceptions! Thanks

Hi Jay, The secret is to avoid rushing to do everything at once! Not rushing allows you the luxury of time to check things before acting. With DCC this may save you lots of money! So - you have a loco with a DCC QSI Decoder that was a 'plug n play' after sale add on. If it is a Revolution one it should match the manuals in the link I gave. Remember that QSI 'standardised' their manuals so that one does all. The standard Intermountain board should really have been supplied with the loco when sold. I guess not all sellers do this - I certainly supply the old board with any sound fitted loco that I sell on. You don't need the board anyway to test on DC. It's back to the good old basics that applied when you gave the hobby up before. One side of the pickup wires goes to one side of the motor and the other goes to the other side. If the wires have been cut short - just use a temp length of wire to connect them. I think this should be your priority. If the motor works on DC without taking loads of power - your decoder has a fault. If the motor does not work - you have found your problem. Thanks

Hi all, In support of what Simon says.... Have you removed the board and tried the loco on 12v DC? If the loco runs on DC - you have a faulty sound board. Do you know anyone who has a Lenz 90 or 100 set? These usually have 5a power supplies and should be able to handle the power requirement of the QSI Revolution. The power consumption you have given seems high - Revolution are only supposed to take 2a in stall condition - not running condition. Link to manual:- http://media.wix.com/ugd/0f7119_1b253f400cf946eb9c036681bd56b43a.pdf Thanks

Hi Eddie, I think that means you never touched it since you bought it the first year Heljan released it! You were going to do it as a demo - if I remember correctly? Thanks

Hi all, Another query re Class 37 liveries... Is there a list of which Class 37's carried the CE Yellow/Grey livery? Thanks

Hi Simon, How is your luck running? That seems to be the only way to gauge the probability or otherwise of whatever you order and pay for turning up! I ordered and paid for several sets of the DMU pipework sets and also DMU MU receptacles - total just under £20.00. That was the week after York exhibition.... Thanks

Hi HighPeakMan, You my friend, are in exactly the same position as I am... Order and pay via the website - then wait and see what, if anything turns up. I'm still waiting and my email chasing the items has not been responded to. Thanks

Hi all. It appears to me that the difference in price for the various makes of sound decoder ties in with the ability or lack of when it comes time to program the thing! I initially just bought whatever prime mover/power unit sound from whoever did it. I've come to regret that - but I learned a lot in the process! So - Yes - Buy the best you can afford is a good start point. However, once you get more into how it all works and what they can do, then the cheaper decoders loose out - Big Time! My MRC decoders can only do a third of the later decoders from Soundtraxx, TCS, Zimo, ESU can do and it's not as high a quality sound. As this lesser result comes for slightly more than 1/2 the cost of the more expensive decoders - save the money and buy the better decoder. It all makes sense in the end.... Thanks

Hi there, There will be 'drop in' sound decoders available for the loco from several makers. I would start with Soundtraxx and check the website for the model listing. Another option would be MRC ..... Walthers took over and have now released the Life Like locos with upgrades. Thanks

Will try and see if I get a response! Thanks

Ok - Please tell us what you ordered - then I can have a guess at whether or not back orders may be forthcoming! Thanks

Hi there, Thanks for the response.... I had this same situation in Scotland! None of the clubs appeared to have a solid D&E interest and there was a visible gap/opportunity in the exhibition content. One of you needs to bite the bullet and join DEMU (again)! Then you approach the Area Group guy (or become the Area group guy - like I did) to see what the DEMU membership is like in the area and then work at convincing them to appear at the show (and any other shows that are of interest). Of course - if their is an area group for your area - then you need to make yourselves and the opportunity known to them. My point is - Until you have an advocate for movement on the D & E front - then it will remain stagnant. When you consider that the D & E era is now the largest time period for modelling - it should have a larger representation around the clubs. Thanks

Hi there Team Yakima.... Are non of your club members members of DEM as well? If so - they should speak with their area group co-ordinator to see if a presence at the show is possible. After all - DEMU are the only era specific society to cover the D&E era exclusively! Thanks

Hi there, Check out eBay at present as there is a listing for one of the replacement full motor units which feature better control and speed. Not connected - came up in a search for something else totally unrelated! Thanks

Hi Grahame, Checked the website and nothing new listed? http://www.ngaugemodelling.co.uk/ourshop/ Not sure how often/when it gets updated as it looks exactly the same as it did a few weeks ago! Thanks

Hi there, Yes - Dogfish and Mermaids run together. In fact - there was a separate code for the - Merdog. Semi permanently coupled.. Enables the full width of a track to have ballast spread over it. Thanks

Hi all, It always amazes me viewing film from the 70's by just how much 1st Class coaching stock there is on the trains! Must have been a lot richer clientel in those days.... Thanks

Hi Jim, I've been trying to use the Gutzhold spring pivoting pockets with the Kadee couplers as well. They are fine between the separate rakes of wagons but look out of place between the wagons of a set. So - I thought about rigid coupler bars between individual wagons. Most of the ones available are too long and give an increased gap that looks wrong between the wagons. I've just started to try and make something a bit shorter. Take the standard Hornby or Bachmann coupling that fits the NEM pocket. Cut the bar part of the coupling off - leaving a shank with a wider plate at the end. Drill holes in both of these at the same distance from the front of the shortened coupling. (Hole sizes are up to you!) Cut 2 bits of 20thou plasticard 3mm wide by 20mm long. Drill holes in both ends of these. (same size as holes in the coupling) Assemble with one piece plasticard above couplings and one below. Make short T pegs to go through the hoes and couple the wagons. You may need to adjust the length of the plasticard pieces. Once happy - It's up to you to either make these into solid bars or leave with the extra ability to pivot. I'm still playing at this point. They seem to work but only going forwards. Needs sorting out to enable them to work in reverse. Thanks

Hi John, That would be great - thanks in advance! Lets hope they don't get moved overnight.

Hi John, More interested in the Sea Urchin - ZCA! Is this the only angle you can get of them? Thanks

Hi Mark, That 'Instantly rigid and stiff' chassis looks good! Just wish that some of the designers of etch kits in the past had the same policy.... I still have an etch kit on the books to do in standard OO for someone - the only problem is that only goes together properly when you build it to P4 standards. Not a happy bunny - but the customer says he is happy to wait for me to come up with a solution! Only problem is that I would have to resign the kit. Thanks