BG John

That's one of the discussions I've read. Epoxy would be OK for joints, but surely not practical for adding printed paper overlays. Talcum powder is an interesting addition.

For what the chuck cost, I am wary. I'll find another use for it if it's no good. I'm aware that getting everything running true on these cheap machines is one of the challenges. It's a nice idea to get the TH going, but I may spend time on it, and more time getting proficient in using it, then my life changes and it has to go. If I've still got it in a year or two, after I may have had to make some big decisions, and take some drastic action, maybe it will be worth the effort. But at the moment, I need tools that can help me get some modelling done, that don't take up a lot of space, and can be used in the house (and especially upstairs on a fairly weak floor).

Next question? A lot of people seem to make moving parts out of PLA. Is it tough enough to use for wheels and rails? Or will it wear? Not conducting electricity isn't a problem. And what about gears?

I've read a few discussions where lots of different solutions seem to have worked for someone, but other people don't get on with them. It seems like PLA is better for the planet and us than other filaments like ABS, but the ways to stick it are much worse. I suppose ABS is the solution, but it's supposed to be harder to print, and I was hoping to get on and do some successful modelling ASAP, rather than wait until I'm really proficient with the printer. Perhaps I should have a rethink about this loco, and try to avoid sticking stuff to PLA.

Hollywood runaway train movies end in exotic places. British ones end in a field near Hastings!

Although I haven't built my 3D printer yet, I'm currently learning all the various software needed for it (and my CNC mill). My aim in buying the printer wasn't to produce visible parts of models, but to use it for hidden structural parts, and for mountings, brackets, boxes and other bits and pieces on my layouts. I'll see what results I can get with visible parts too though. My aim is to produce "multi-media" models, using the best material and techniques for each component. This means that I'm going to need to attach PLA to other materials, like plasticard, card/paper, various woods, metal, acrylic etc.. From what I've read so far, everyone seems to have different opinions on which adhesives work, and which don't. What are you using, and does it work? I'm currently learning OpenSCAD to draw up the parts for a small 0-16.5 loco. It's a static model for my Cakebox Challenge entry. I'm aiming to 3D print the boiler, boiler fittings, footplate, frames and wheels. Other parts will be plasticard, either cut on my Silhouette Portrait, or CNC milled. I'd like to experiment with the kirtleypete "Painting Without (much) Paint" method of attaching printed paper overlays. To achieve this I need to: 1) Stick the PLA boiler, footplate, frames, axles and wheels together 2) Laminate a thin plasticard footplate to the thicker 3D printed one, to give a fine top surface and overhang at the edges, and also add thin plasticard buffer beams 3) Stick the plasticard cab to the plasticard footplate overlay, and to the PLA boiler 4) Attach various PLA and plasticard details, fittings etc. to the PLA/plasticard body 5) Stick the laser printed paper "paintwork" overlay to the PLA boiler and plasticard cab, and to other parts This is a great exercise to learn OpenSCAD with, but if it will be impossible to assemble because I can stick the parts together, I need to rethink it before I get too far. Any suggestions, experiences, that could help?

Disgusting. Air Force pilots get into trouble for doing their version of it, so I hope the offenders were suitably reprimanded!

I got a bit distracted, and haven't done any more on this, except doing a bit more to support the Chinese economy! The reason it only takes ⅛" tools is that it comes with the brass adaptor in the photo, that fits on the 5mm motor shaft. I found this neat little chuck on AliExpress, that arrived today, and the adaptor with it (the black bit) is a nice fit on the motor. So it looks as though I'll be able to use any size tools. I bought a few different types of tool on AliExpress as well, and so far these 3mm and 0.8mm ones on ⅛" shafts have arrived. There are some drill bits, and 1.2mm mills on a different sized shaft on the way too. So when I get back to it I should have plenty to try/break! Meanwhile, back to getting my head round 3D CAD, G-code converters, and stuff!

"This man is about to launch himself in his homemade rocket to prove the Earth is flat". https://www.msn.com/en-ph/news/technology/this-man-is-about-to-launch-himself-in-his-homemade-rocket-to-prove-the-earth-is-flat/ar-BBFvH2E

What microcontroller has the Anet A2 got? I've been trying to Google it, and get the impression it has an Atmega 1284, which is what's used on some of the cheaper printers. The RepRap spec. is for an Atmega 2560. I've bought a Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B, which has an acrylic frame, while the Anet A2 has a stronger aluminium one. But it has an Atmega 2560. All the cheap machines have different compromises, but I thought that strengthening the frame, if necessary, might be an easier option than rebuilding or replacing the electronics, if they aren't up to the job. From the reading I did before buying, it seemed to make sense to go for the better microcontroller. Hopefully, I'll start on the supposedly 8 hour build in a day or two, when I've cleared enough space in the workshop for the huge number of components I've got to assemble. Then I can start looking at printing some components to upgrade it!

Now why didn't I think of that! I'm just about to start drawing up a loco to be built from a mix of 3D printing, and plasticard cut on my Silhouette and CNC mill, but it never crossed my mind that I could make a fan duct before I've built my printer .

I hope so, as I've just bought half a litre of it! The container is just marked as Orange Terpene.

Speak for yourself .

Time to dispose of Network Rail and the TOCs, and get our infrastructure back onto a more human scale level then .

Prusi i3 based printers are one of the most common on the planet, as I understand it. Each manufacturer's version, and their various models, differ to all the others though. If this is a rebadged Wanhao, presumably it will perform like one, but if it has a few different parts it may produce totally different results. Look at the RepRap Prusa spec. to see all the possible variations in components, controller boards etc., then add in all the extra variations manufacturers make to keep the price down, or add value, and who knows what any individual machine will be like!

I'm sure I've received a few things in the post from eBay sellers, that Royal Mail won't carry. Like half a litre of D-Limonene enclosed in two padded envelopes recently (plus a plastic container of course )!

If it turns out to be too light, I was wondering about darkening it with a Letraset Promarker. I've got them in a variety of shades of grey, so it would be good not to damage the paintwork. Not sure how it would work on the surgery needed on the end though.

I think the brake rigging may have to go. It probably won't stretch to 28.08mm gauge!

Not in Wales it doesn't. No idea what that blue and white stuff is .

I'd thought of slotting the axle holes in one end, and having a central pivot for the axle to rock on, but if the plastic is brittle that doesn't seem like a good idea. Maybe I'll replace the w-irons with one of Bill Bedford's etches. I'll need to fit grease axleboxes anyway.

I'll need to saw one of my AA3 chassis down the middle, and widen it. Then add compensation or springing, as it will be using P4 wheels. Brittle plastic that doesn't like glue should add to the fun! How did you remove the lettering?

If the ends were modelled as built, there wouldn't be a problem, as it would be more straightforward to adapt them to changes over the years. Oxford producing a fantasy version is the problem, unless you're modelling the GWR in a parallel universe! Don't forget that the current version is only suitable for the first decade or two of the life of the AA1s, because of the fully planked sides.

Mixed gauge at Didcot! Next, four rails.

Oh go on. I want to see how someone does it before my AA3s arrive .

You you need to lower the side windows by one plank too, and add a glazing bar .