Hal Nail

The ends look like separate mouldings - which is typically how Dapol have approached coaches - so you've nothing to lose trying to scratch build a drop in end. If you are happy with that, a respray in plain maroon from crimson isn't too tricky.

You can buy foam online, a pack of razor blades and a decent ruler. Advantages (aside from being tight) are you can arrange to fit your exact stock and being able to remove part of the foam helps get things out without risking snagging. I wrap in tissue now as well to protect paint but this may be overkill? This was my first attempt for 7mm stock: I bought thicker foam after that. Reminds me I really must do some more!

ModeIu if I'm not mistaken. By 1957 that fireman had progressed to driving and is often seen on my 5521. He doesn't look a day older though!

All the black parts on this Dapol 7mm loco are brush painted in enamels - matt black, a hint of brown and an even smaller hint of gunmetal. Thin the paint right down to a milky consistency with white spirit, use a large soft brush aiming for one stroke covering the area evenly as quickly as possible. Use natural breaks such as the chimney base etc. Avoid any temptation to fiddle and after it has throughly dried, buff slighty with kitchen roll or flick with a clean brush, to smooth out any marks. No need to mask or airbrush and you can always give it a 2nd coat as so thin.

I noticed the translucent roof panel is different on the newer batch. Given these don't tend to be that obvious in real life, a quick check didn't really help but I think the newer one is correct?

I ordered some spare handrails for the new Heljan 7mm class 73 recently. The originals are cast metal (and even described as cast) but I was sent two random bits of wire. When I reported this to Gaugemaster, with photo evidence, they stated I'd been sent the right parts and have then ignored any further correspondance. I tried calling but got no answer. I'll try the Heljan contact above. Presumably if I manage to get any sort of confirmation I can take it up with my credit card. edit. Heljan confirmed the parts supplied are wrong so that's something I guess!

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just out of interest how did you find that info, or did you just know?

I normally model late 50 so dirty rather than worn out but have just bought a Heljan 73, as new c'66. So I was going to do a couple of vans for that (or maybe rework one side) and the look you've got is exactly what I had in mind. Have you actually painted in various lighter shades or rubbed some of the finish off?

Nice stuff. What period are you aiming for - that degree of fading and some of the markings suggests late 60s?

Didn't the SECR class 01 stick around for use on light railways with their lower axle loading? https://sremg.org.uk/steam/o1class-mob.shtml

For future reference, ultra fine wet and dry - start with 2000 grade - will remove even sealed transfers without damaging the paint. I've done it several times and can also clean up weathering like that. The same technique to flatten the paint, plus a bit of polishing with kitchen roll, gives a more "metally" appearance than painted plastic, so I tend to do this anyway as part of normal finishing.

My memory may be playing tricks but I'd have said these predate the Heljan diesels so at the time they were pretty unique as r-t-r (albeit unpainted) and priced accordingly. Not that long ago Lionheart did a soldered brass GWR 45xx tank that was over 1000. Then they brought out the recent die cast and plastic one at c£450 and I've seen 2 or 3 of the old brass ones sell at the same price as the current ones.

"...it makes toplights disappear" Jesus. I'll have manilow on the brain all day now.

I think they came out so long ago RRP is probably irrelevant now! I've seen a thread in 2012 discussing the range and they were already discontinued by then. Here's one that got auctioned but I suspect prices will have fallen given the alternative DMUs from Easy Build, Dapol etc. https://hansonslive.hansonsauctioneers.co.uk/m/lot-details/index/catalog/193/lot/95283?url=%2Fm%2Fview-auctions%2Fcatalog%2Fid%2F193%3Fpage%3D4

Here's the collectors version - enough differences that I think the eBay one is a home repaint. Apparently it worked with the SLOA pullman set in the 80s. There were two BCKs so presumably someone has modelled the other one. As ever, Google gets there quicker!

Sun was falling on a spot behind the workbench yesterday so took a few shots of anything to hand. Dapol brake van now has replacement Slaters lamp irons. A Mogo with the buffers off my conflat, a better shot of the BR conflat conversion and 4552 which I must finish off!

This suggests there was an instruction to cease lining fenders in July 1957 so unlikely. There were a few with early crests from the few months before that and Dapol have done one with a mogul. http://www.gwr.org.uk/liveriesloco1948.html

I'm totally confused by this discussion! I've flipped quickly through Google images and grabbed one of my GWR steam books and none of the Bulldogs, Granges, Halls, Castles and Kings I've come across had steam heat pipes on the front buffer beam. More often than not the coupling is hooked up on that side. Am I missing something?

The Heljan tender does! Not sure I've ever seen the rear end of a real one. Edit: rail online 5379 has one on the tender (also 5385 shows one). Presumably they weren't expected to work backwards. https://www.rail-online.co.uk/p404170585/ec4655398

https://modellers-mecca.co.uk/products/sr-lner-pullman-corridor-connections-o-gauge https://www.crtkits.co.uk/product.php/395815/

I can quite easily spend several hours a day doing that. Generally the answer ends up being, no, there wasn't anything new! :)

I do too. i meant within RMWeb, how do people generally browse threads....

Off topic, although its not as if I'm interupting anything new, but your mention of Hattons suggests you have a list of threads? I'm vaguely interested in how we browse differently. I tend to just jump between regular threads, mark the site read after each session then anything new next time is in bold. So I can leap straight to someone posting "is there any news yet" and other unmissable gems. Is there a more efficient method?

It does but looks like the cab comes off, so I suspect for those so inclined, filing off the bottom (and where it fits over the firebox) wouldn't be that hard, wouldn't damage the paint and its areas where dirt would accumulate anyway.