57xx

Damn, you have good eyes to see that at 6ft! You know you shouldn't be using binoculars though?

Joking aside, I find once you have seen things, you can't unsee them. It's like the sunken numbers plates and seamless join of the dome to boiler on the DJM 48xx jump out a mile at me every time I look at it, or the curved joint between the cap and main chimney on the Hattons Terrier.

Hopefully your 2nd one will be better, there looks to be some well turned out ones in the main thread.

Seeing some of the pics on the Rails thread, there does seem to be quite a variation in the level of quality/striations. As Tony said, I think the technology is not quite there yet. It certainly has great potential as maturity curve improves.

Having said that, would it pass the 3ft test? Photo's can reveal cruel details you would not normally see under normal viewing conditions. I think the main issue is the one Mick is facing as to how it will affected weathering.

2 hours ago, toboldlygo said:

 

Boiled Water?  most Aerosols carry a warning not to expose to temperatures above 50 degree's C. 

That's more for prolonged exposure, they won't instantly explode as soon as the surrounding temp is 50*C I wouldn't advise leaving in boiling  water e.g. still on the boil though. By the time the heat has transferred into the can it's well below 50* but plenty hot enough to make it spray well.

8 hours ago, toboldlygo said:

 

My advice for using aerosols in cold weather outside (or in a cold loft or outbuilding), make sure the aerosol is kept warm before and in between coats of paint - as if they are cold the paint can come out quite thick.

Also the pressure is reduced when cold. I would always place the can into a pan of boiled water to heat it up, it thinned the paint and got the pressure up to a suitable spraying level.

On 15/12/2020 at 14:19, Captain Kernow said:

Given the brittle nature of ballast secured only with Klear, my personal view is that the stuff is now of more value in terms of varnishing stock etc.

Have to say I've never seen what the big deal about using it for ballasting was. I did my photo plank with it and found it no better or easier than dilute PVA. If anything, one of the complaints I saw about PVA being "too solid" is worse with Klear. Seemed to me to be the modern thing of a solution for a problem that didn't exist. My stash is now also reserved for varnishing stock.

Rich, Klear is very watery so the brush marks just disappear naturally. I've brushed it on a few wagons before. The bigger issue I have with when brushing it is air bubbles. I've also airbrushed it, not had any problems. I did use my cheaper airbrush I got with the compressor rather than my H&S, but it covered well, did not clog and was also easy to clean out.

That looks rather tasty.

11 hours ago, 46444 said:

 

Thanks Rick. 

 

And I was quite chuffed with my silver painting antics... 

 

Out with the black paint it is. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Mark

Don't worry, many have been there, I used to proud of my silver buffer shanks too until someone pointed it out to me.

They have come up well. My only comment would be to paint over those silver buffer shanks. The self contained buffers would have had black shanks as per the one in middle of the 3.

13 hours ago, bcnPete said:

At first glance I thought “where’s this new layout sprung from” ....then I clicked after a double take...crafty use of front wheel sets aligned to rail edge 

Ahah, that would explain the "hot hatch" vans where they look like the rear end is jacked up lol (pic 2 & 4)

I've got a couple of bottles of original clear Klear but only used it on cheap wagon kits so far before applying lettering. Haven't summoned the strength to apply it to relatively expensive locos yet!

Did you paint or spray the Klear on the Mogul? It certainly does the trick in adding a sheen to the paint.

Sorry for digging up an ancient post, What size is your baseplate? Just going off a rough scaling from the screen, I'm guestimating around 12" x5"?

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Anyone have any ideas for other steam-era wagons that they would like to see? Some feedback or comments would be nice, you know

How about an LMS D1666 open wagon? What simulator are these for?

Me too.

Can't wait for a video to see this moving!

4 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Quite a list. Mary Jackson's story sounds particularly impressive.

Every time you hear/see a story about the "1202" alarm, think of Margaret Hamilton who wrote that error procedure to keep the computer running when it would otherwise have crashed (shortly followed by the LEM).

Too fantastic to be true? Nah.

In a different engineering discipline, we may not have landed on the moon if it wasn't for some of the women of NASA.

Superb work Rosspop!

Halfords grey primer works really well as a base coat for stonework, I used the same basis for my 2mm engine shed.

Phew, that was a close shave for Mr Thomas, how fortuitous to find a lady of such standing having a keen interest in brake design. I thought the poor chap was about to be bowled a googly by her commenting on how she much preferred a large lever, "...afterall, Mr Thomas, there is so much more to wrap one's dainty hands around when giving it a hefty tug"

23 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

I'm looking forward to Part III, where the BoT man turns up and explains the multifarious ways in which Mr Thomas' and Messers Dean and Churchward's inventions meet with official disapproval.

I thought that might be the deviant cad spying on them from behind the goods shed in the pic 5th from the bottom, however reading through a second time he hilariously pops up in other pics and I realised it was non other than Mr Finkerbury himself.

Fantastic story telling as ever, Mikkel, and some great shots of your modelling again. Bring on part 2!

Games Workshop do a product which sounds similar to Mr Surfacer - Liquid Green Stuff. It's water based and easy to paint on, works very well for gap filling and removing blemishes.

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a book by John Hayes, "The 4mm Coal Wagon." Look at the photos and weep

The best modelling book I have ever read by a country mile.

It does indeed seem that they have taken note changed the packaging then.

I checked my centre wheels after reading this, all looks good on that front too. King James is doing a running in turn around the test track as I type.

Are you sure those rub marks are from the packaging? Just opened James I and the vacuum come nowhere near the boiler in the location of the marks on yours.There's also a sheet of plastic film protecting the whole length of the top of the loco and tender and not a hint of a rub mark.

It's not a mad idea SRman, I've tried that myself. Have to admit it didn't work out quite as I hoped as the stock GWR freight grey is quite dark. It might work better on a lighter grey though.