57xx

Agreed it's not as easy on the kits with underframe detail on floor but still doable. I just cut the bits to fit in all the gaps, two layers works well. This one is a Ratio kit, turns out I've not got round to doing the PD ones yet.

What weight are you looking to get with your wagons? I manage to get up to 30g no problem using sheet lead. Maybe there's too much dead space between those balls to get the weight up easily. I used wire for the tarp rail too, no way is the plastic rod supplied ever going to be of any use for that purpose.

Ahah! All is clear now. I was associating the comment about the quick trim with the picture below it of the Manor with no spindle.

One quick Gallery creation later....

You've made an excellent job of that Mikkel! You've captured the character of that wagon really well.

I have often read about 'rivet counters' but now it seems we have to count missing rivets too

Well, technically, Mikkel is actually a "nut counter", as these are actually the nuts on the ends of the bolts that are used in the wagon construction . In the prototype photo you can actually see they are square, not round.

I took the opportunity to run one of Mikkel's colour pics through my "ye olde" Photoshop filter with added grain for Rob but unfortunately I've just found another blog short-coming; I can't directly attach a pic to this post without uploading it somewhere else first.

Excellent bit of fault finding, Ray. I'm curious why you didn't just shorten the over-length spindle though?

Looking at the prototype pics of the SVR CC7, I think the strip of rivets at the top is to go on the body at the left side of the door, not part of the door runners.

The upgraded DD5 kit includes an etch overlay for the solebar detail.The destructions say to file off the lower edge of the U. Kind of makes me think that a simple angle section rather than a U section would have better.

I've got a hold & fold that I've used to do solebars on a Bedford GWR 10' underframe (didn't get much further due to lack of instructions...) and found it very easy so I think the solebars for this kit should be a doddle. 

I notice it has an excess of side strapping too. Two of the bits of strapping (towards top right above the trussing) are for the side door runners. There's no roof rivet detail either, luckily I have a load of the Mainly trains wagon detail etch too for my D1839 kit-bash.

That might take a while, I've yet to dip my toe into brass kit building! That said I have amassed 4 different kits to build now, it's a matter of choosing one to take the plunge with.

The CC7 has the sliding door and only one set of buffer beams, the angle ended ones. Strangely, the instructions say to fit the square ended beams - that aren't included on the etch!The roof is as yours, not holes etched for the roof-light and no buffers were included. I will be emailing Falcon to query this as the instructions specifically mentions attaching the buffers in step 4. 

If the DD5 Cordon is anything to go by, the upgrade will be to use U section channel for the solebars and buffer beams and more underframe castings, specifically on the DD5; V hangers, brake shoes, brake levers.

Thanks for this excellent post Nick, most informative. My CC7 arrived today so this will help immensely.

With the lack of any definitive evidence of these (and other PW vehicles) being painted black, I think your livery hits the spot perfectly.

Just popping over to evilBay to find some square section brass....

Where are your tank filler cap and vents from?

Ric

I knew I had another question... where did you get the tank vents from, Nick?

Ric

I remember you'd posted how you made them on the old site, but as the info got lost I ended up buying mine from Eileen's Emporium. They'll do the trick for me, but your's really do look much better.

Wow! Do you want to do my new van when I get it? lol What did you use for the lining?

The railmotor looks fantastic, I'll have to drag myself down to Didcot sometime.

So much more practical. If you go down the conversion route there is the Self Build Motor Caravan club who have an on-line forum.

I'll second the recommendation for the SBMCC. I was a member for a while when I fitted out my van for racing and will definitely rejoin when I have to get a new van (bloody LEZ :angry:) so I can take things a step further and do the mods I chickened out on before (like a skylight).

Don't forget a big stereo too, vans are awesome for that!

A *slight* narrow gauge look? I had to get a ruler on the screen to be sure it wasn't! As you say though, not C&L's fault when the sleeper units aren't really meant for OO and it does look a lot better at normal viewing angles.

You're making excellent progress, the steel minerals look great. As do the woodens! A couple of suggestions: Don't forget to go over the strapping on the Hunting wagon, you've got your wood colour going over it on one side. Try erasing the lettering on the planks you are going to paint with your fibreglass pen. I can see some poking out from underneath on the Hunting.

Ric

Looking good, Tim. I love gauche, so simple to use! I used a thin white wash over the woodwork when I was doing my engine shed to "fade" the paint, before then applying the dirt colours. There was a definite improvement to the overall look, to my eye.

Haha, my folly in N is just a diversion until I have room for my over ambitious 4mm plans My paint practice is also on 4mm stuff.

Most annoyed that I managed to miss this show as it's very local for me! I really must pay more attention to the events calendar.

If this is your first go, the it looks like a good start. I've been mucking about with some old wagon bodies too and found at least an 00 or smaller was needed for me to get paint within a plank. Also try and use thinner applications of paint when building up the plank colours to prevent a blocky effect and make variations more subtle. Nothing I've done really started to pop until applying the dark wash and for that I'm now a convert to gauche. You can pick up a gauche set from ebay for a couple of quid, and a bottle of Micro Sol to dilute it.

Surely there is some need for various size figures? After all, everyone is not a regulation 6' tall with perfect BMI. The two women you posted for example, could be mother and daughter?

I like. A lot! Your first shot has convinced me to re-plan my layout so I can add an optional board between the main station area and the fiddle yard so that if I ever have the room I can bolt it in place for a larger scenic section. That long stretch of open track in the countryside is too good an opportunity to miss out!

Wow, your "model of the model" is a work of art in itself! I look forward to seeing the "real thing" take shape.