TimC

This post is in reply to NRS91 query on wiring a Deltang Rx which was posted on the End of the Line thread. There are a number of different versions of the Deltang Rx's that are suitable for driving a RC vehicle. I have used a Rx41d, the Rx43d and Rx45 can also be used, the latter two have greater functionality if you want to fit lights and other features. No doubt, there are probably others too. Here is a basic wiring diagram of what I have done. Whatever Rx is used the pin outs and specification can be found on the relevant instructions page on the Deltang website: http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx41d.htm http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx43d.htm http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx45-v5.htm Needless to say, make sure you look at the correct page for your version of the Rx, it may not be one of the three I've linked above. There is generally a power input +/- to the Rx, a motor output (normally 'H1' or 'ESC', to provide a reversible motor drive - on some Rxs the -ve maybe common to the motor drive too so check the instructions), and a servo control output - either called something like rudder/aileron/P1-8 (which provides the control signal for the servo). There are mini wiring diagrams in the instructions so you should be able to see what is necessary. The instructions also include a short video explaining how to bind a Rx to the Tx. I did a lash up and bench tested the wiring first so I could work out what the best arrangement was for using the 4 channels on the Tx. Most Rxs allow the drive and servo control to be assigned to different channels by 'programming'. There is an explanatory video on the Deltang website and while it looks a bit complicated, its not too bad in practice. You just need to work out exactly what you need to do first and then do it in a quiet moment so you don't loose your place or get distracted. Saying that, my Rx41d is quite simple so its not as involved as the Rxs with more functions. The Deltang Rxs are not protected from short circuits so ensure you understand what you are doing with the wiring before applying power. The solder pads are quite small and easily shorted to its neighbour if too much solder is used so again be careful. Once installed in a metal vehicle I suggest the receiver is protected with tape or sleeving. Good luck!

Waiting for a train, on a sunny day in August 1908.

Having agreed to buy the End of the Line off Giies I needed to get back to my RC lorry. I hadn't really looked at it for 15 odd months and I knew there were a few niggles I needed to get my head around and get straight. Of course, a string of other little projects came along (including starting a second lorry) and now in the last couple of weeks I've had to get my act together to get a vehicle running for Warley. Well I managed it just! I wouldn't have done it without some machining help from my good friend JimG so a big thanks to him. Here is the completed vehicle, once I get a few moments next week, I'll post some more details but essentially I followed what Giles has done before. After Warley it needs to go back on the bench so I can simplify the steering mechanism and do a host of other little minor jobs like tidying up the wiring and adding the cab interior (or whatever I can get to fit). I'm operating Clarendon at Warley which is fortunately just a short distance from End of the Line so you might see my Ford Thames having a trundle when I'm free. There is a Morris Commercial hot on the heals of the Thames as I'll need two vehicles for when I exhibit End of the Line at the Yate show on 31 January 2015.

I went to EXPONG at Swanley today and was captivated by An Char a 2mm scale NG layout using 6.5mm track. Here it is in the flesh and then in b/w. It is one of the best visual joins between the model and the backscene I've come across.

Just for completeness but there are some more piccies on my Industrial workbench thread.

I was very impressed with Sydney Gardens at todays show in Chippenham. I caught a couple of piccies at a quiet moment.

Great to see Pixash Lane again today at Chippenham, I always think it would be great scaled up into 7mm.... Anyway here are a couple of snaps.

If anyone is interested, I've repainted and am weathering my Ixion Fowler, progress can be found on my workbench. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/78470-timcs-7mm-industrial-workbench-ixion-fowler/page-2

Love the picture of the 3 Pecketts at Carnforth, though the far loco is Hawthron Leslie 'Faraday', works number 3793/b1932 (I think, maybe someone can confirm) The centre one named 'John' is Peckett 1976/b1939. By 1986, it had been restored and was the main passenger service engine at the Gloucestershire & Warwickshire Rly for the 1987/8 seasons. It later did work at the Cholsey & Wallingford before its ticket ran out and the boiler needed serious work (there is a photo here http://www.philt.org.uk/Industrial/Ind-Steam/i-N7mspv5 after the ticket had run out of it back at Toddington). The loco is still in the shed at Toddington and the chassis is well advanced while work on the boiler progresses. I think the nearest loco is Peckett 1370/b1915 which is now restored (and I believe operational) on the East Lancs Rly. BTW - Superb photos, keep em coming.

Paul, dccsupplies do a range of transformers. I use one of these http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=23_41_42&products_id=2991 for my 5A NCE Powercab. They have a 3A version for a few quid less. There are probably cheaper solutions. Ebay has some 75VA transformers listed but they'll need a case etc.

Thanks TTG, we had Paul's old layout at Bristol this year - Thames Wharf Yard. Maybe we'll get an invite for Somerset Lane another year

HI Bob Thanks for message, Somerset Lane is finished and has appeared at a couple of local shows, we have added the odd detail but nothing major really since the last update was posted back in 2012. Paul has completed his Steve Beattie Class 16, which was a bit of a battle but it looks the part and runs well. The completed goods shed always draws comments too. The layout is next appearing at the Glastonbury & Street Lions Club Exhibition, Meadway Hall, Ham Lane, Compton Dundon, Street, Somerset on 1 March 2014. The SVMRC (larger scales) team are about to start an S Gauge layout, which is really a project of one of the members but it'll only get finished for next years club exhibition if we all put some effort into it. Maybe once we get underway, I'll start a thread on that.

OK, grabbed a few snaps of my 3 CCTs this morning (the low sun was a bit harsh)... I had to spend ages fettling to get the roofs to fit/sit down and they are not perfect now. In an ideal world, the sides and roof would be one unit and then bolted onto the floor/chassis but that is not how the kit is designed. If I had known what I know now I might have made them that way. At some stage I may revisit these and do some filling/touching up around the roofs to improve matters further. Painting was with JLTRT rattle can, transfers were HMRS Pressfix and then airbrushed weathering before I fitted the glazing. The glazing is from Extreme Etchings and these flush fitting laser cut units really set the vehicle off for me (flush glazing is one of my modelling hobby horses). I normally dirty the windows with MIG powders but these glazing units didn't seen to retain the powder as well as the normal clear plasticard I use so I'll have to have a think about how to dirty them further. In time I'll also add some chalk scrawl on the sides and a bit more weathering but they'll so for now. I have left off the vacuum and steam heat pipes as these vehicles will be fitted with some sort of auto-coupler in time and I'll fit the pipes once I know what space I have left. While the kit needs a few extra bits and some effort they do build up into a good model. Overall, I'm very happy with them. My next few projects are likely to be industrial before I get back onto matters requiring blue paint....

OK, grabbed a few snaps of my 3 CCTs this morning (the low sun was a bit harsh)... I had to spend ages fettling to get the roofs to fit/sit down and they are not perfect now. In an ideal world, the sides and roof would be one unit and then bolted onto the floor/chassis but that is not how the kit is designed. If I had known what I know now I might have made them that way. At some stage I may revisit these and do some filling/touching up around the roofs to improve matters further. Painting was with JLTRT rattle can, transfers were HMRS Pressfix and then airbrushed weathering before I fitted the glazing. The glazing is from Extreme Etchings and these flush fitting laser cut units really set the vehicle off for me (flush glazing is one of my modelling hobby horses). I normally dirty the windows with MIG powders but these glazing units didn't seen to retain the powder as well as the normal clear plasticard I use so I'll have to have a think about how to dirty them further. In time I'll also add some chalk scrawl on the sides and a bit more weathering but they'll do for now. I have left off the vacuum and steam heat pipes as these vehicles will be fitted with some sort of auto-coupler in time and I'll fit the pipes once I know what space I have left. While the kit needs a few extra bits and some effort they do build up into a good model. Overall, I'm very happy with them. My next few projects are likely to be industrial before I get back onto matters requiring blue paint....

Well the CCTs got finished and I will get some piccies on here soon. Modelling wise I have been tackling a part kit/scratch build of a 7mm Ruston 88DS and given its not going to be BR blue I've started a new thread to cover my industrial interests. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/78470-timcs-7mm-industrial-workbench-ruston-88ds/?p=1220494

Hi Chris I must get back to this thread once I've returned from sailing (I'm typing this in Seaport Marina, Inverness having been in Orkney for the last month). My CCTs are awaiting paint shop. I have to admit to not using the instructions, Brian D's builds on RMweb are much easier to follow! I've got a fruit D too, the body is already done with just the under frame to finish. I know some don't like the white metal u/f from JLTRT but as long as it runs well and look the part then I'm ok with them. No kits are perfect so I'm happy to make do and add detail if necessary. A lot of Brian's work is on the earlier version of RMweb - it's well worth the look, especially if your interested in JLTRT kits. The Cravens DMU was a frustration and it remains incomplete even though I solved the motor gearbox issue which was the source of the problem. It needs the interior doing so maybe this winter it'll find it's way onto the bench again. I use DCC but my partner in crime at my local model railway club is firmly DC only so I have a mix at the moment. After a couple of recent exhibitions I've been to where there have been several layouts competing on the DCC sound front I'm thinking twice about fitting sound to (all) my locos. It now depends on whether a particular loco is for a club project/ private project as to whether it gets chipped. Saying that I really like the controllability and lack of section switches DCC provides. Once I'm back in August I'll get my act together wrt this thread! Cheers,

Not much progress from me in the last month as illness, club business and boat jobs have taken precedence. Sailing for the next three months now so I'll get back on the case when I return later in the summer.

Sean You could try ABS who have the old Cavalier range of coach castings. No website I'm afraid so you'll have to call him http://www.ukmodelsh...58-ABS_Models.?

Ah, yes, I'd not really thought through that side of the geometry. I think I'll make up some plasticard discs to trial out as wheels and then if I need to deepen the recesses for the bearings I can do so. Another set of steering gear will not take long to fettle up if the centres end up out. This Ford Thames is not in my period, it is a learning piece so I'm happy to go through the necessary iterations to see what I need to do on the next one.

My RC lorry crawled forward a bit more this week. I've made up and dry assembled the steering mechanism and had a few goes at getting the centre of the wheels bored out for the bearings. My first attempt with the pillar drill resulted in a lose bearing. Not surprising as I had used a 5.5mm drill rather than a 5.0mm one - D'Oh! Thankfully, with milliput it was easy enough to refill the hole and once it was dry, I had a go on the model club lathe to get a centre and bore out a better hole with a 5mm slot drill mounted in the end stock chuck. This was a much better job than I had made with the pillar drill so I refilled the second one and I'll bore it out the same way on the lathe next week. Next up is to have a play with the steering arms and look at a revised mounting of the RC bits as I've now got one of the smaller servos that John mentioned above. Also, before I solder/glue everything together I've got to think about painting the brasswork.

Dave Love the video of the Sentinel - what did you use to motorise it in the end?

No progress this week as I've got a stinking cold so no club, hopefully be back there next week.

A bit more of the lorry chassis got chopped away yesterday. That hole under the cab grew in about four stages as I changed my mind on how best to mount the servo. I've gone for across the back of the cab with the receiver and the charging socket in front under the hood - I've just got to make sure the steering gear doesn't get in the way of the charging plug. The servo is small enough that it doesn't stick above the window line in the cab and it shouldn't be that noticeable once covered in masking tape which will be painted a suitable colour. I remembered the milliput and have filled the holes in the front wheels and I've made up the rear axle which is ready for fitting once I've finally stopped filing away at the chassis. Sods law was that I made the rear axle up with the plain bearings I had only for the shouldered or flanged ones I had ordered from China to arrive in the post after I got home from the morning session down the club - I'll use the flanged ones on the front wheels and subsequent projects. Also arriving in the post were the three higher speed motor/g'boxes so I'll have a play with those at home to see what equivalent road speed I can get out of them with a 3.7V iPod battery. Hopefully, next week, I'll get those front wheels bored out and I'll knock up the steering gear....well thats then plan anyway.