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richbrummitt

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Blog Comments posted by richbrummitt

  1. On 30/07/2024 at 15:38, magmouse said:

    Thanks, Mike. I should probably clarify a remark I made at the end of the blog post, saying this was less work than a scratch build. It was less work - for me. A huge amount of work has been done by Stephen to made the digital model. One benefit of digital models is parts can be reused, of course, so the axle boxes, buffers, and so on will go into other digital models of similar wagons of the period. Stephen has also developed an iron under framed version of this wagon.

     

    Nick.


    The digital model is a brilliant option when you want multiples of whole or parts. I’ve 4 of these waiting for rooves and paint. From memory the diagonals on that digital model go the other way. It wouldn’t scale up to 7mm though. 

     

    13 hours ago, drduncan said:

    Yes, I haven’t forgotten rash ideas (mine) made in the excitement of the GWSG members day…

     

    @magmouse @Malcolm Trevena The S7 should be straight forward in 7mm (although better drawings than those available from the the bible will always help). As Nick said it will be minus running gear as in 4mm a mixed media approach using etched wirons works best. However, seeing @stevel very nice w-iron and axle box design is making me wonder what might be possible in 7mm. I just hate drawing up j hangers and springs while the ok axle box is a rather complex shape! Nice simple grease axle boxes are so much more my period…

    Duncan


    How were the axle boxes I printed for you? I can’t remember what you told me. They should scale to 7mm because I drew them full size from a good drawing with almost all the details and then used the shrink ray (scale function in CAD) before putting the hole in to take a bearing. 

    • Like 1
  2. 4 hours ago, magmouse said:


    Thanks, Rich! We can probably squeeze you into the cupboard - you’ll be disturbed twice a year, when the Christmas decorations come out and go back in.

     

    Nick.


    This gets better and better; I’ve been promoted to Christmas decoration! Probably not a very good one though - at ~1.87m and ~68kg - I’m all the wrong proportions. 


    Looking forward to seeing further progress, including the track plan. 

    I’m hoping I get to GWSG members’ day/AGM and, if so, I’ll try and make sure to say hello. 


    PS. Now you’ve worked out how to fit it in and are moving towards building a layout the blog description might need an edit…

    • Like 2
    • Funny 1
  3. 3 hours ago, magmouse said:

     It might be possible to do one big waterslide transfer, of course....


    I’ve been playing with this as an idea with some thin lead foil, and failed:

     

    First the handling destroyed the printing very quickly. This probably not helped by the printer being a laser type. I varnished the transfers before cutting out on a subsequent attempt. The transfer did not adhere well to the foil and came away once trying to put the bends in around the ends of the sheet supported and wagon. The transfer also  to broke up on some folds and began disintegrating. I’m considering some self adhesive foil - the kind used for fly tying - on the next attempt in the hope the transfer will stay together better. I’ve found some 0.15-0.2mm thick but nothing thinner. That’s way above scale thickness for me but maybe it will work. I don’t believe it would be possible to fit the sheet made with foil to the wagon and then add the transfer onto it afterwards so the extra stress of bending two materials fixed together is unavoidable with the method. 

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  4. 8 hours ago, magmouse said:

     

     

    Photographers tend to build up large collections of camera bags and tripods, each for slightly different purposes and situations. The joke goes:

     

    Q: how many bags/tripods does a photographer need?

    A: N+1, where N is the number they currently have.

     

    I feel the same applies to wagons...

     

    Nick.


    You beat me to this. The same ‘joke’ goes for many groups: In cycling the formula for how many bicycles one needs is expressed in exactly the same way.

  5. 3 hours ago, Mikkel said:

     

    Ha! :) Well remembered - and you have a point, must ensure continuity in our character stories! We know that Station Master A. Woodcourt served the GWR for 27 years. The earliest date at which he appears in photos is, I believe, 1902. So he could still be around on a 1919 layout.

     

    Sticking with the fiction, above I mentioned how the yards at Newbury were worked by Didcot and Reading engines. If we take the liberty of transposing that situation to Farthing in 1919, then the source of an 1854 PT could include not only Salisbury shed as suggested by Miss P, but also alternatively Swindon or Westbury - all of which had 1854 allocations. The following map shows the situation before the GWR took over the N&SR, but you get the idea.

     

    image.png.c674403088dff2efcd712a4f1a264598.png

     

     

    Speaking of Westbury, the 1921 allocations at Westbury were interesting...

     

    image.png.d7ba8c43289ca5e6a34b7c04db76cd89.png

     

     

     

    My feeling is Westbury would be more likely than Swindon, but you have yet to write the history of the N&S Rly post amalgamation. Was it like the M&SWJR; ignored/neglected?

    • Like 1
  6. On 06/11/2021 at 06:45, Mikkel said:

    It would be interesting to see if an entire layout could be built with just three colours, no variations allowed. If you choose the right ones I think it could work.

     

    It would. I've frequently pondered the idea of a layout presented entirely in sepia or monochrome. It's no more likely to get very far than any of my other recent (last 20 years efforts).

    • Like 1
  7. 5 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

     

    That Vastern Road fence looks too dark to be stone, to me. But it does show that @Mikkel's fence could do with a bit of bashing about - it needs to lean over in a few places.

     

     

    I spent a while considering where the sun might be and how shaded the side we are viewing was. It probably is black. The book on GWR structure colours, by Richard North (GWSG) covers the period 1912-1947 and tells us that spear fencing likely to be interacted with by the public, as here, was varnished black or tarred. However it also tells us that stone tint no.2 was also in use at the beginning of the period covered. Who is to say that at Farthing they used stone tint 3 or 4! There was local variation on windows and valences.  

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  8. 9 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

    Re. that container - it does look very like the ones that became widespread in the 1930s but c. 1905 there were no conflats - so presumably an ordinary low-sided open would be used.

     

    That is certainly the case for the Newberry container in the centre of a much published image of Newbury station prior to the rebuilding (to 4 tracks). It's the first one on the disused stations website.  

    • Like 2
  9. 2 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

     

    Surely it's like wagon grey - there are infinite degrees of variation, so almost anything will be right for some horse, somewhere, sometime. The difficulty is ascertaining the right look for your horse in your location at your time period; this must depend on factors including the type and age of the horse, its feed, and the work it has been doing. As usually, we've both hands tied behind our backs due to having to rely on monochrome photographs.

     

    I don't think we've yet touched on scale smell.

     

    The usual advice still applies: It's best if you can try to find photographs from multiple angles (at the very least one from each side of the subject) taken on the same occasion in the time period you are modelling. Or Stephen's version - apply a documented number that there is no known good photograph of...

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  10. Adhesives are available that would fix the thinner brass cranks to the axles without the soldering issues, if you can get past the appearance in your mind. Seem to quite commonly available from helicopter and drone hobby suppliers for fixing props/gears to motor shafts (so similar applications).

     

    If not that or the suggestion in the previous comment then you are talking yourself into replacing the (over width?) outside frames. 

  11. Now this is exciting. 

     

    Two things I have learnt about worm mesh during the rebuild of a pannier tank (still not finished though it was started some time ago when you were at the beginning of the scrap tank build) is that it could be helpful to paint the inside of that fold up worm 'box' a very light colour so that the mesh is quite visible when looking into what might otherwise be darkness behind and the mesh can be adjusted a tiny amount by bending the upright between the main part of the frame and the 'box'. 

    • Informative/Useful 1
  12. Good to see you making some progress again Pete. The battery solution seems like a good one. I think it should last quite well powering a single LED and can always be revisited. Always one to overcomplicate things I wondered if the switch could be arranged to operate on a push button switch accessed by shoving something in the stove pipe. Probably much easier to have something under the floor - there must be loads of space in 7mm.

    • Thanks 1
  13. 2 hours ago, Simond said:

    Interesting hypothesis.
     

    is it the case that 3-arc roof profiles are always associated with broad gauge conversions?  
     

    in my mind, I associate them with clerestory vehicles, a sort-of-simplified-but-same version, but of course they would be a similar era.  Maybe I’ve been missing something obvious!

     

    atb

    Simon

     

     


    No, but the profile is different on a broad gauge conversion because the conversion was accomplished (in simple terms) by cutting a length-wise slice out of the middle of coach and joining it back together. That is unless it was a ‘convertible’ where the change was to put the already narrow body on a narrow under frame. 

    • Informative/Useful 3
  14. On 24/10/2020 at 12:41, Mike G said:

    Rich

    Does the chassis roll smoothly with no motor and the coupling rods on? If it does, then the gears are at fault. Before High level g/boxes turned up, anything with brass gears was treated to a toothpaste surprise. Some toothpaste mixed with a little motor oil, spread on all gears - not smoothered - and then connect it all up and let the motor run for 24 hrs. The toothpaste will smooth the edges of the gears so that they mesh easier. Obviously, a dunk in white spirit is needed to clean it all off. Just a thought...

     

    Mike


    The chassis used to run, and well. It was the best of what I had made. 

     

    16 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

    I admire your stamina Richard . I wouldn't know where to start. Fingers crossed you will get there in the end. Sounds like you have qualified help :superman: 


    Thanks Mikkel, It’s so frustrating but I will get there somehow I am determined. Then I will have the first off engine appropriate to period. 

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