richbrummitt

So, was it worth it?

 

The track is nicely finished and it seems that you cannot tell the signals are not permanently attached. I hope to see some of your work for real someday.

There are some smaller bearings available (the phosphor bronze ones described as frame bushes) compared with the brass one in your photo. The bogie doesn't look to have much material though so these probably still wouldn't fit. 

I believe that all the 43s pre-date me so that's over 30 years in service for them. There is a picture of one on the wall where I work proclaiming we are 'moulding the future for transport'. (There are a series of them for different industry sectors.) It makes me chuckle every time I see it. I suppose that they are likely to be around a few more years yet at the very least.

Thanks Rich - Am not just finding it with modelling but other close work tasks too...need to ask again about laser treatment...maybe the time is right for that now...probably cheaper than moving to 7mm long term...

I remember reading an excerpt from a research paper several years ago when working as a lighting engineer that found the need for light to complete a task increased exponentially with age.

 

I know a couple of people that have had their eyes lasered in the last couple of years and it has made a massive difference to them. Your prescription has to have not changed for some time for it to be considered an option though.

Just think of the smell of bacon and eggs frying on the shovel in the firebox

I had a lovely English muffin with bacon, poached egg and flat mushroom this morning and now I read this I'm hungry again. It must be time for lunch.

Clearly if you needs lenses then you need lenses but when doing small intricate work light is your number one friend, perhaps followed closely by (appropriate) magnification. As an example think how much light there is in an operating theatre! I improved my own work space massively a couple of years ago by installing around 40W of fluorescent angle poise above my work space. I usually use it about 2' above the surface, approximately head/brow height.

 

I won't be able to see you at the exhibition but wish you a good showing.

The glazier should be 'visiting' in a couple of weeks - and I can assist with the tiles too...

Thank you. It wasn't a hint though - this is a trial. I have some different ideas to achieve a better result with the next ( final?) version.

Andy,

I'm not sure how that might work because the mortar layer is a series of rectangular outlines that are on top of the bricks. I think that the line style can have a graduated colour but I would need to apply it individually to each brick outline. They overlap too so it could require reordering of each one within the layer as well.

Maybe I could change the colour of a random selection of brick outlines. How much variation is suggested?

I will give it some thought.

Thanks,

Richard.

Home-made brick paper in 2mm with all the right details! I'm vey impressed Richard. And clearly worth the effort too.

 

But if you exhibit this I swear I will turn up and ask "Excuse me, but it looks to me as if the bricks are just repeated on the other side." 

 

On this building the back wall has no bricks! It is hard up against and 8' wall so they will never be seen.

...and it doesn't work (for me)

Thanks Ian,

 

You might want to wait until his next order comes through from the supplier unless you got there before me...  there was only the one packet left! Sorry. I'll have to go back to get some more too but we'll see how they work out. 

Can those things be bought locally? I need some more.

 

PS. that 2884 looks like I felt on Friday.

I'd like to argue please; would you kindly suggest a topic

 

It's good to know you're still ticking away happily after use of the grass zapper.

I found a bag of fudge very recently but it was from a trip to cornwall last April and past it :-(

Maybe you know someone who could take the board and put the grass on? You can add it manually as we were discussing yesterday...

 

Your quarry reminds me of honeycomb fudge and now I'm hungry again...

I used to eat a lot of those when they were cinnamon grahams first time around but nowadays I be mostly eating krave. I'm sure they used to be hazelnut wheats or something similar?

It would be useful to see your jig if you have a photo of that.

I haven't but it is quite simple: a piece of tube equal to the insertion length soldered inside an angle such that the angle protrudes a little way beyond the end of the tube.You insert the wire such that the bottom aligns with the end of the tube (I use the thumbnail of the hand holding the jig as a stop) and make the first bend at 90 degrees over the end of the tube. The next bend is made around the edge of the angle in a plane perpendicular to the first bend. The cut is made against the back face of the angle to make them a consistent length. The first bend length corresponds to the length of wire under the rail and the second to the amount protruding outwards under the stock rail. The former needs to be less than the distance between sleepers and the second needs to be at least 1mm.

Specially adapted hair grips That's impressive...

Not really you just cut and bend them to the shapes required. They make good low force grippers.

How easy would it be to sort a failed solder joint once all is painted and ballasted?

with the same clamping mechanism it is no more difficult than a dropper wire. Given that they can swivel in the little tubes they should last....

I haven't found any decent info on what's going on close to the centre line of the chassis and it's pretty much invisible in photos.

True. Most people will only ever see the roof properly, the sides a bit and the chassis very little. We're all giants towering over 2mm scale people and on top of that our brains are very selective about what we actually register; only those harsh larger than life pictures we've all become familiar with will show things up.

How did you add the top hat bearings to the plastic underframes.

That last picture might just be proof of the fastest layout builds ever! In true Blue Peter style... "here's one I made earlier". I look forward to seeing progress on the proper version

All of it. 

 

You don't need a lot of movement to get around sensible corners so I would imagine you'll be fine.

I knew that you would eventually give in with the track. a good decision I'm sure Pete will be along later to add his approval too.

Yes. The less solder the better; it saves on cleaning up time. Very good start. If you had not have said then we would not have known you were an etched kit virgin.

Cheers Ian,

 

I have various sizes of self adhesive labels but no full page ones. I had long since wondered what the purpose of a full page label was but I fully understand now that they make them for modellers

 

I'm not going over there today though.

I think we all tend to underestimate the width of roads.

 

I worked in the street lighting industry for nearly 4 years so I know how big roads/parking spaces/other random amenities are this was just a case of memory failure: A further sign I am not getting younger.

 

 

 

Thousands of surgeons cannot be wrong!  Just remember the blades are so sharp the pain normally hits  after the work gets covered in blood!

 

So they say. The cut to my finger is healing but you are absolutely right that I didn't notice until the opening had allowed a tricklle of blood down the handle and I noticed it was strangely wet...

 

 

 

Some more nice work Rich - the nice thing about making the carcass structures is that even if they don't get clad for some time, they start to help pull a layout together - this is all looking rather fab now

 

Thanks Pete. I'll be off to get some full page sticky labels soon to move this along. I have some bricks to draw for the arch, which will be challenging going by my recent efforts starting to draw the walls for the main buildings. I hope to acquire the remaining materials for linking up the switches and making the signals. Hopefully it will start to come together more quickly once those under baseboard timesucks are dealt with.