richbrummitt

The obvious next step...

 

I've done that a few times.

Sorry my library is packed up in boxes for the forseeable...   ...since it's fictional we can be sure they existed ;-)  I don't think such complexity is necessary though because the yard can already be accessed from both ends - something to think about?

Absolutely tremendous - the differences between round and square rods correctly portrayed in accordance with WR practice, the use of round rod in the pin joints, and the stepping down in round rod/pinjoints to the cranks.  An excellent job all round Missy and I'm really glad you did start on it.

 

I agree wholeheartedly.

 

 

Thats interesting because I wondered about adding wires

 

I really don't think you need to: they're barely visible in many photographs. The pulleys and posts are all I would add. 

I'm very impressed by this conversion, looking at the pics I would have sworn they had nothing to do with Lima! Very convincing. I like your version of lake, looks good.

 

Thank you. There is at least one obvious tell if you know what you are looking for. and no; I won't tell you what it is.

I guess a barrier van with DGs at one end will be needed to couple yours into a train.

 

This depends. I have an engine and coaches with compatible hooks/couplings.

 

What's your policy on running unpainted stock?

Very nice. It is achieveable little projects like this that are important in tempting us N gaugers to try something finescale....  thanks for showing what can be done in a way that is a) lovely and b ) not too terrifying!!

 

Thank you. With new track systems appearing and scenic modelling such as your own Victoria Bridge on display there is obvious potential for good modelling even if you retain the 9mm gauge. There is always scope for improvements and detailing to a higher 'standard' though.

 

(This does assume that you have wheels and track that work together properly for good quality running though)

They take ages but I do like push out rivets. Nice curvy outside framed running plate. Shame you're off the green stuff though

Typical having done the hard work you now think about a replacement etch. The difference does really show Rich.

Don

 

I thought about it before. At that time I only had these two to do. At least two other people have expressed a requirement for such an item and now I have 3 more myself...

 

That said I'm not sure how much of it is sensible to etch and what the time saving would actually be given the time involved in creating artwork. It's all the steps and wire bending that takes the time.

Good to see you posting again Rich. Watch out for that 'nearly ready for painting' stage though - my projects usually have a habit of getting stuck there. If not, then they get stuck at 'painted but a few last bits to add'. Regards, Andy

Cheers Andy, I've got less stuff nearly finished/ready for paint than I did but the pile on the shelves remains. As I get older I'm getting better at finishing things.

 

I really like the model of a typical railway modellers workshop, delightful clutter.The boxes look well, I look forward to seeing them on Lambourn, ( and will have to convert my rather heavy, unconverted Lima jobs!Richard

I thought I captured the workshop well. Much of the room is full of boxes now! I hope to finish these an three alien boxes for November. The bodies are good, apart from the ends. The most obvious bad part is the roof. The chassis is heavy, as you correctly identified. After a momentary lapse of self control during a visit to eBay recently I have another three, so perhaps I ought to make this easier and design a replacement chassis etch.

Sorry. I should have checked your earlier posts to confirm but your modelling period is later than I remembered it being.

It will take you longer to get there because of the little details. However it is the little details that make your models more special. It looks all the better for it.

Check the brakes against a photograph. Are you sure that in the period you are modelling there are blocks on both sides of the vehicle? You appear to have a single shoe on the other side, which was a common version of the 'modification' that was applied later on (c. late 30's).

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66521-and-who-says-that-home-3d-printing-cant-do-detail/?p=1135225    and subsequent posts....

 

hth

 

Andy

 

Ah, yes. I've been following Rabs' thread for a while.

ps. whats an STL?

 

It's a computer thing. 

 

Back on traction engines I found a pile of fleetline kits, including a road roller, that I thought were long lost during my tidy up and clearing out. I had packed them in a shoe box with all the other 'bits that might be useful' from an old N gauge layout and then buried it right in the back of a shelving unit that I dismantled earlier in the week. 

 

Please someone post pictures (and I mean really cruel close ups) of this lorry. I'm quite excited to see it!

Always nice to see a blog post. 

 

Happy modelling.

 choo-choo!

For buffers sturdy is the way to go IMO.

 

I am the only person in the house that buys those clips but about half of them mysteriously disappear before they get upstairs to my tool box. It happens every time!

What kind of saw do you have in mind? I've never used one before for modelling.

 

Whatever suits, however it's easier to get a straight cut with certain types of saw. Either a junior hacksaw or a razor saw (the type that fits an Xacto #5 style handle) would work here, although I would almost always default to the former. I also use a coping saw and piercing saw on regular occasions for more difficult shaped openings or areas that are awkward to access. It is much more difficult to cut nice straight lines with these types of saw.

I'd be cutting out with a saw. IMO easier than a knife and the edge should be square so no (or very little) finishing required.

I'm a convert to klear for glazing. I stuck most of my ground signal together with it, where I couldn't (or really didn't want to) solder. Wonderful stuff!

That is a high tech crossing jig compared to my piece of paper with two lines on!

There'll be no stopping him now!

Neat work. Is there something special about these particular Evergreen sections or are you using the wrong type of solvent? I have always used EMA plastic weld and never had any problems with the Evergreen stuff I have tried it on.  

I need to order the pony wheels, (assuming 6mm wheels are in stock!)

 

Let me know if they are not: I have some not yet packed away that you can 'loan' until I get a chance to put them to use on an identical chassis build.

Hi Richard, I too will miss your updates but it's nice to hear that exciting new things are happening in your life.

 

It might be nice to keep a little project or two might going on the backburner for when you just need to unwind - a wagon build or suchlike? In any case, good luck with it all ! 

 

Thanks Mikkel, A discussion yesterday suggests that those horseboxes ought to get finished by November if possible.