richbrummitt

V19 was a one-off flush sided version of V18, No 10450. V18 and V19 were both 16' long, the RCH 17'6" ones start with V21 (V20 was the longer 20T grain hopper van). Atkins et al mention (p379) that some of the vac fitted lot 919 of V18 were fitted with iron roofs.

 

Nick

They are out of time period: grouping is my cut-off. There is a model on GWR modelling of a V4 Mink with a steel roof. This doesn't have the central rib but would otherwise match. So do I; a, remove the rib and try to find an appropriate number or; b, make a new roof from 0.005" sheet?

I especially like the Minks. I hadn't previously given these any consideration myself. The photo on the Association catalog doesn't really do them justice so I might have to put one or two on my shopping list.

No - the photos do nothing for them. They are that funny colour and finish that is so hard to see the detail on until painted, like many of the 3d printed items we are seeing more of.

I also wonder about that V4 roof. Is it the 7ft 6

Perfect amount of yuck. I found it funny that someone has managed to chalk a window and just love the self made porthole in the nearest window (final picture). So much character.

 I'm a bit like those people (you know who you are) that look to see if there are people sat in coaches but for more obscure things. For me signals should work, and that includes ground signals. I appreciate that not everybody sees the need to add all this detail and it's up to an individual how much/what detail they require to enjoy their models/hobby. I like to see people making this kind of extra effort though and you've made a tidy job of it. 

I used similar methods to Missy where 1. I used a few drops of Klear mixed with food colouring for lenses. Not only does it negate the cutting out requirement but adds no thickness to the disc, and 2. I had to use the smallest LEDs I could get (0402) and they are a pig to solder up. Worth it for the result though. 

My opinion is that I would always allow a small amount of clearance in a slot that received a tab because they are awkward to open out however a hole should be fractionally under-size so that the etch cusp (a consequence of the process) is removed. The need to check and open out the holes should be made very early on in the instructions, but not everybody reads them!

Someone told me (I cannot remember who) that the N Brass 1F chimney was as close as they had seen a casting for. I can't vouch for it because I haven't tried it.

Put all the weight at the front. You need as much as possible over the driving wheels. Is the black one next in the shops?

Thank you all.  I must admit that I am getting restless, and really want to get on with the track building, but as I will be constructing this "on-site" as it were I really can't afford to leave any construction work until later.

 

As an aside I have received a set of 4 wheel coach under frames from David Eveleigh which should allow me to get on with some coaching stock for this project (the Worsley Works coach bodies were obtained just before Christmas).  I am secretly hoping that I will be able to get them built before the end of April, just for the amusement factor of running them into St Ruth at the Epsom & Ewell show when Andy Carlson (D869 of this parish) isn't looking ;-)

 

Ian

Watch the wheelbases. I had a real early set (I'm sure he told me they had been corrected) and I'm only using two of them. I'll pass you my notes in a pm, once they're finished.

By 1920 these kind of coaches were already reaching the point where the company seemed to be scrapping or converting to suit differing needs as evidenced by record cards so I should probably stick to 4 wheels?

The R1 will be a U8 once finished - though I'm building from the Shire Scenes kit so will need to modify the ends (they are 3 centre). This needs a 16' u/f. S9 has 18'- although I wonder how different the S7 and S8 dias looked (listed as 19' u/f), U4 should be 17'?, T47 should be 19'. T51 was originally 6w 20' or 22' u/f (I wonder what the two converted to S14 looked like - I bet the etch won't be suitable for a coach that gained two lavs). Fortunately I have etched parts left over from my own kits to make new u/f s from. These I bought are near useless! I can use one under the V5 maybe.

Apologies to everyone else for massive thread hi-jack.

I'm good for something then

Mikkel,

 

I have a set of 2mm scale Worsley Works coaches - diagrams T51, S9, U4 & T47 (just body kits), for which I have taken delivery of a set of 19'0" and 18'0" wheelbase under frames that will suit produced by a 2mm Scale Association member.  I have been trying to find some suitable photographs (especially of the brake thirds - a U4 (compo) and S9 (all third) have both been preserved at Didcot).  I have also begun scouring my library ;-)

 

Ian

They're in Russell but you have to hunt them because they aren't in the index (one of the worst points of these books). From memory one or two of these are suitable for a 6w underframe. I was pondering doing it but couldn't remember which ones could have had it. Finally I concluded that the extra axle would have been removed by 1920, most likely along with the lower footboards? I do need to re-check the wheelbases before I commit the chassis - I have four 18' ones at the moment :-/

Mikkel,

Printing some wheels shouldn't be a hardship. If you send me some dimensions I can produce the files for you to go to shapeways with. PM me.

At last - something my wife is interested in on RMweb: pictures of rhinos. Yes I have already seen your 'work' on the ANTB thread!

The whitemetal wheels do look better

Many thanks Paul - if I get it running again, it might even have the odd visit from a kettle...

I'm sure there are plenty of people who would volunteer one. 

Would it be more accessible for photographs without the pillar front right (nearest in the sketch)? The frame wouldn't be complete at the front but the floating lighting pelmet could look very classy.

Oh 

I'm with the rework the chassis brigade too. Are they 10mm wheels? I recall carving bits of the body away to fit it low enough for the association conversion chassis and the wheels were one of the main reasons. I'm sure I went for 10.5mm wheels though. I don't recall why - it just made things harder for me!

Does the diversionary project involve that white fluffy animal?  That appears in both pics 1 and 3...

No. He's a Niceday dog. We had a great many of these because SWMBO used to work there - fortunately they are fewer in number now. I named him Brunel, to much disappointment. He used to 'hold' my safety glasses. I don't know how it worked but it did cause me to remember to wear them when using rotary cutting tools.

Maybe.

Thank you Julia, I would have come to see you at the weekend if there hadn't been a rail replacement bus service between here and Farnborough.

Everything is kind of dumped in there at the moment. The pile on the workbench is stuff I wanted to keep flat. There are several sheets of veneer and super thin ply.

Left hand side half way up there are some long thin items from an importer/manufacturer based in Scotland. ;-)

we have none of that deeseesee juice if your loco runs on that.

Jerry, DCC?

P.S. It isn't the box of HO US buildings. They are from a previous project. You're warm though.

I really like that. As always, Tom, you produce some excellent results: the pictures could pass for larger scale models.

Mike,

Designing your own kits is very rewarding - they take a lot of work but - you can have them exactly how you want them!

'tis a thing of beauty. Congratulations.